Choosing the right potting soil can make or break your indoor gardening success. Unlike garden soil, quality potting mix provides proper drainage, aeration, and nutrients that container plants need to thrive. This guide breaks down everything you need to know about selecting the best potting soil for your indoor plants in 2026.
What Makes Good Potting Soil?
Quality potting soil isn’t just dirt in a bag. The best potting mixes contain a blend of ingredients designed specifically for container growing. Look for these key components:
Peat moss or coco coir – Retains moisture while staying lightweight
Perlite or vermiculite – Improves drainage and prevents compaction
Compost or worm castings – Adds beneficial nutrients and microbes
Bark or wood chips – Provides structure and air pockets
Avoid garden soil or topsoil in containers. These heavy soils compact easily, suffocate roots, and often contain weed seeds or pathogens.
Best Potting Soil by Plant Type
Different indoor plants have different soil needs. Here’s how to match soil to your greenery:
For Tropical Houseplants
Pothos, philodendrons, and monsteras prefer moisture-retentive soil that drains well. Standard potting mixes work great, or try Fox Farm Happy Frog for organic options with added mycorrhizae.
For Succulents and Cacti
These drought-lovers need fast-draining soil. Mix standard potting soil 50/50 with perlite or pumice, or buy pre-made cactus mix. Overwatering in regular soil kills more succulents than anything else.
For Herbs and Edibles
Basil, parsley, and salad greens thrive in nutrient-rich, well-draining soil. Look for organic potting mixes fortified with compost or slow-release fertilizers to support steady growth.
Organic vs Synthetic Potting Soil
Organic potting soils use natural ingredients like compost, coconut coir, and earthworm castings. They feed soil microbes, improve long-term soil health, and work well for edible plants. The downside? They cost more and can harbor fungus gnats if kept too wet.
Synthetic mixes rely on chemical fertilizers and may contain peat moss from non-sustainable sources. They’re cheaper and work fine for ornamental plants, but lack the biological activity of organic options.
Top-Rated Potting Soil Brands for 2026
Based on performance, value, and user reviews, these brands consistently deliver results:
Fox Farm Ocean Forest – Premium organic blend with robust nutrients
Black Gold Natural & Organic – Great balance of quality and affordability
How to Improve Store-Bought Potting Soil
Even quality potting soil benefits from amendments. Try these upgrades:
Mix in 10-20% perlite for extra drainage
Add worm castings for slow-release nutrients
Incorporate coconut coir to improve water retention
Blend in biochar for long-term soil structure
For best results with container gardening, refresh potting soil annually. Old soil compacts, loses nutrients, and can harbor pests.
Common Potting Soil Mistakes to Avoid
Watch out for these rookie errors:
Using garden soil indoors – Too heavy and compacts quickly
Skipping drainage holes – Even the best soil needs somewhere for water to escape
Reusing old soil without refreshing – Nutrient-depleted soil stunts growth
Overwatering in moisture-retentive soil – Let soil dry between waterings
🛒 Recommended Products
Amazon’s Choice
FoxFarm Ocean Forest Potting Soil
$33.99
FoxFarm Ocean Forest Potting Soil is a nutrient-rich blend of aged forest products, bat guano, and earthworm castings, perfect for indoor and outdoor plants. Its pH-balanced formula promotes healthy growth, making it ideal for seedlings, transplants, and mature plants.
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02/12/2026 07:03 pm GMT
Petra Neem Oil for Plants – Organic Neem Oil Spray for Plants,100% Cold Pressed Neem Oil, Pure Neem Oil, All-Natural Neem Oil Concentrate Leaf Polish for Plants – (17 Oz)
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Final Thoughts
Investing in quality potting soil pays off with healthier, faster-growing indoor plants. Choose soil that matches your plant types, avoid common mistakes, and don’t be afraid to customize with amendments. Your plants will thank you with lush growth and vibrant foliage.
Living in an apartment doesn’t mean you have to give up on composting. With the right approach and tools, you can turn your kitchen scraps into nutrient-rich compost even in the smallest spaces. This guide shows you exactly how to get started with apartment composting—no yard required.
Why Compost in Small Spaces?
Composting reduces waste, saves money on fertilizers, and gives your plants the nutrients they need to thrive. Whether you have a balcony, patio, or just a kitchen corner, you can create quality compost without odors or mess. The average household throws away 200+ pounds of compostable material annually—that’s money and nutrients going straight to the landfill.
Before diving into methods, check out our Composting 101 guide to understand the basics of what makes good compost.
Best Composting Methods for Apartments
1. Countertop Compost Bins
Small, odor-proof containers sit right on your kitchen counter. They hold 1-2 weeks of scraps before you need to empty them into a larger outdoor bin or community compost drop-off. Look for bins with carbon filters to eliminate odors and sealed lids to prevent fruit flies.
🛒 Recommended Composting Products
Chef’n 401-420-120 EcoCrock Counter Compost Bin Black and White 3.3 liter 1
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02/12/2026 08:03 pm GMT
2. Vermicomposting (Worm Bins)
Red wiggler worms break down kitchen scraps faster than traditional composting. A worm bin fits under your sink or in a closet, produces no smell when maintained properly, and creates incredible fertilizer. The worms eat roughly half their body weight daily, processing your scraps into nutrient-rich castings. You can even use the rich worm castings in your vegetable garden.
3. Bokashi Composting
This Japanese fermentation method lets you compost meat, dairy, and citrus—things traditional compost can’t handle. The sealed bucket system means zero odors and faster breakdown (just 2-4 weeks). Special bokashi bran contains beneficial microbes that ferment your scraps rather than decomposing them.
What to Compost in Your Apartment
Green materials (nitrogen-rich):
Fruit and vegetable scraps
Coffee grounds and tea bags
Fresh grass clippings
Plant trimmings
Crushed eggshells
Brown materials (carbon-rich):
Shredded newspaper
Cardboard (torn into pieces)
Dry leaves
Paper towels
Sawdust or wood chips
Balance is key—aim for 3 parts brown to 1 part green. Too much green creates a slimy, smelly mess. Too much brown slows decomposition. If you’re wondering about specific items like chicken bones or shrimp shells, those guides explain what’s compostable.
Avoiding Common Apartment Composting Problems
Odor Control
Keep your bin sealed, bury fresh scraps under existing material, and maintain proper moisture (damp sponge consistency). Add more brown materials if it smells. A properly maintained compost system should smell earthy, not rotten. Carbon filters in your collection bin help tremendously—replace them every few months for best results.
Pest Prevention
Avoid meat, dairy, and oily foods in traditional compost (unless using bokashi). Keep your bin sealed and empty it regularly. For balcony composters, a tight-fitting lid is essential. Fruit flies hate the cold—store your collection bin in the fridge or freezer if needed.
Space Management
Choose vertical bins or stackable systems. Many apartment composters use a two-bin rotation—one actively composting, one curing. Stackable worm bins let you harvest finished castings from the bottom while worms migrate upward to fresh food.
Top-dressing houseplants for slow-release nutrients
Finished compost looks dark and crumbly, smells like forest soil, and contains no recognizable food scraps. It typically takes 3-6 months in traditional bins, but worm bins produce usable castings in just 8-12 weeks.
Getting Started Today
Start simple: place a small countertop bin in your kitchen and begin collecting scraps. Once you see how much waste you’re diverting from landfills, you’ll be motivated to expand your system.
Apartment composting takes minimal space, costs less than $50 to start, and turns your kitchen waste into black gold for your plants. Give it two weeks and you’ll wonder why you didn’t start sooner. Even small-space composting makes a measurable environmental impact while giving you premium fertilizer for free.
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Choosing the right fertilizer for your garden can make or break your harvest. While both organic and synthetic fertilizers provide essential nutrients, they work in fundamentally different ways. Understanding these differences will help you make the best choice for your plants and soil health.
What Are Organic Fertilizers?
Organic fertilizers come from natural sources like composted plant matter, animal manure, bone meal, and fish emulsion. These materials break down slowly in the soil, releasing nutrients gradually as soil microorganisms decompose them.
Common organic fertilizers include:
Compost and composted manure
Worm castings
Bone meal (phosphorus)
Blood meal (nitrogen)
Fish emulsion
Kelp meal
If you’re interested in making your own organic fertilizer, check out our guide on composting for beginners.
What Are Synthetic Fertilizers?
Synthetic fertilizers are manufactured using chemical processes to create highly concentrated nutrient formulas. They typically display an N-P-K ratio (nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium) on the package, like 10-10-10 or 20-5-10.
These fertilizers dissolve quickly in water and provide immediate nutrition to plants. They’re commonly used in commercial agriculture and by gardeners seeking fast results.
Benefits of Organic Fertilizers
Improves soil structure: Organic matter enhances soil texture, water retention, and drainage over time.
Feeds soil microbes: The decomposition process supports beneficial bacteria and fungi that create a healthy soil ecosystem.
Slow nutrient release: Plants receive a steady supply of nutrients without the risk of burning from over-application.
Environmentally friendly: Less risk of nutrient runoff polluting waterways, and often made from renewable or recycled materials.
Long-term benefits: Builds soil fertility that lasts for years, reducing the need for frequent applications.
Benefits of Synthetic Fertilizers
Fast-acting: Provides immediate nutrition for plants showing deficiency symptoms.
Precise nutrient control: You know exactly what N-P-K ratio you’re applying, making it easier to target specific plant needs.
Cost-effective initially: Usually cheaper per application than organic options.
Convenient: Easy to apply with clear instructions and consistent results.
Which One Should You Choose?
The best choice depends on your gardening goals and situation:
Choose organic if:
You’re building long-term soil health
You grow vegetables and want to avoid synthetic chemicals
You have time for the slower nutrient release
You want to support beneficial soil organisms
Choose synthetic if:
Your plants show severe nutrient deficiencies
You need quick results for a specific crop
You’re growing in containers with limited soil volume
You need precise nutrient ratios for specialty plants
Many experienced gardeners use a combination approach: building soil health with organic amendments while using targeted synthetic applications when plants need an immediate boost. For specific crops, check out our recommendations for best fertilizers for tomatoes.
Recommended Organic Products
If you’re starting with organic fertilizers, here are some top-rated options:
🛒 Top Organic Fertilizer Picks
Amazon’s Choice
FoxFarm Ocean Forest Potting Soil
$33.99
FoxFarm Ocean Forest Potting Soil is a nutrient-rich blend of aged forest products, bat guano, and earthworm castings, perfect for indoor and outdoor plants. Its pH-balanced formula promotes healthy growth, making it ideal for seedlings, transplants, and mature plants.
We earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no additional cost to you.
02/12/2026 07:03 pm GMT
Speed up your home composting with this bacterial accelerator that breaks down organic matter faster while maintaining quality.
Final Thoughts
Neither organic nor synthetic fertilizers are inherently “better” – they each have their place in the garden. Organic fertilizers excel at building soil health over time, while synthetic options provide quick fixes when plants need immediate help.
For most home gardeners, starting with organic fertilizers and building healthy soil will provide the best long-term results. Your plants will be more resilient, your soil will improve each season, and you’ll develop a sustainable gardening system that requires less intervention over time.
Whatever you choose, always follow application rates carefully and remember that more fertilizer isn’t always better. Healthy plants come from balanced nutrition and good soil care practices.
Growing healthy plants starts with understanding your soil, and pH levels play a crucial role in nutrient availability. Whether you’re growing vegetables, flowers, or houseplants, using a reliable soil pH meter helps you maintain optimal growing conditions and avoid common problems caused by improper pH levels.
Why Soil pH Matters for Your Garden
Soil pH affects how well plants can absorb nutrients from the ground. Most vegetables and flowers prefer slightly acidic to neutral soil (pH 6.0-7.0), while some plants like blueberries need more acidic conditions (pH 4.5-5.5). When pH levels are off, plants can’t access essential nutrients even if they’re present in the soil.
Testing your soil pH regularly helps you catch problems early. Yellowing leaves, stunted growth, or poor fruit production often signal pH imbalances. With a good pH meter, you can test your soil in minutes and make adjustments before these issues become serious.
Types of Soil pH Meters
Analog pH Meters: These simple probe-style meters require no batteries and give instant readings. They’re affordable and work well for basic testing, though accuracy can vary.
Digital pH Meters: Digital models provide more precise readings and often include additional features like moisture and light sensors. They’re slightly more expensive but worth it for serious gardeners who need consistent accuracy.
Multi-Function Meters: These combine pH testing with moisture levels, sunlight intensity, and sometimes temperature readings. They’re ideal for indoor plants and container gardens where multiple factors affect growth.
Our Top Recommendations
🛒 Best Soil pH Meters for 2026
Amazon Choice
SONKIR Soil pH Meter, MS02 3-in-1 Soil Moisture/Light/pH Tester Gardening Tool Kits for Plant Care, Great for Garden, Lawn, Farm, Indoor & Outdoor Use (Green)
$7.97
3 METERS IN ONE: Soil moisture level, Soil pH value and Sunlight level could be tested easily according to your need by switching the function button of this soil meter.
NO BATTERY NEEDED: Simply insert the meter into soil, wait few minutes, accurate test results will be displayed on the readout panel. No battery is needed.
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How to Use a Soil pH Meter
Using a pH meter is straightforward, but following proper technique ensures accurate results:
Clean the probe: Wipe the metal probe with a soft cloth to remove any residue from previous tests.
Prepare the soil: Remove debris and rocks from the test area. If the soil is dry, water it lightly and wait 15 minutes.
Insert the probe: Push the probe 4-6 inches deep into the soil. Avoid hitting rocks or roots.
Wait for reading: Analog meters take 1-2 minutes, while digital models stabilize in 10-30 seconds.
Test multiple spots: Take 3-5 readings across your garden bed and average them for accuracy.
Adjusting Your Soil pH
Once you know your soil pH, making adjustments is simple. To raise pH (make soil less acidic), add lime or wood ash. To lower pH (make soil more acidic), use sulfur, peat moss, or pine needles. Always adjust gradually and retest after 2-3 weeks.
Different plants have different pH preferences. Carrots grow best in slightly acidic soil (pH 6.0-6.8), while peppers prefer pH 6.0-7.0. Testing your soil before planting helps you match crops to your existing conditions or make targeted amendments.
Maintaining Your pH Meter
Proper care extends your meter’s lifespan and accuracy. After each use, wipe the probe clean and store it in a dry place. Avoid leaving analog meters in soil or wet conditions, as this can damage the internal mechanism. For digital meters, replace batteries annually and calibrate according to manufacturer instructions.
Test your soil at least twice per growing season—once in early spring before planting and again mid-season. If you’re growing in containers or raised beds, test monthly since potting mix pH can shift faster than ground soil.
Final Thoughts
A reliable soil pH meter is one of the most valuable tools for any gardener. Whether you choose a simple analog probe or a multi-function digital model, regular pH testing helps you grow healthier plants, increase yields, and solve problems before they damage your crops. Start testing your soil today and see the difference proper pH management makes in your garden.
Nothing ruins a gardener’s summer faster than yellowing tomato plants and a disappointing harvest. You’ve done everything right—started seeds indoors, hardened off your transplants, picked the perfect sunny spot—but your tomatoes still look anemic. The culprit? Almost always, it’s fertilizer (or the lack thereof).
Here’s the truth most beginner gardeners learn the hard way: tomatoes are hungry plants. Really hungry. They need specific nutrients at specific times, and getting this wrong means the difference between a handful of small, bland fruits and bushels of juicy, flavorful tomatoes that make your neighbors jealous.
In this complete guide, we’ll break down exactly what fertilizer tomatoes need, when to apply it, and which products actually deliver results. Whether you’re growing heirlooms in raised beds or determinate varieties in containers, you’ll walk away knowing exactly how to feed your tomato plants for maximum yield.
Why Tomatoes Need Special Fertilizer
Tomatoes aren’t like lettuce or herbs that can get by on mediocre soil. These plants are what horticulturists call “heavy feeders”—they extract massive amounts of nutrients from the soil throughout their growing season.
Think about what a tomato plant actually does: it grows from a small transplant into a 6-foot vine, produces dozens of flowers, and converts those flowers into pounds of fruit—all in about 90 days. That kind of explosive growth requires serious fuel.
Here’s what makes tomatoes particularly demanding:
Long growing season: Unlike quick crops like radishes, tomatoes occupy soil for 3-4 months, depleting nutrients continuously
Fruit production: Each tomato contains nutrients the plant pulled from the soil—more fruit means more nutrient demand
Calcium requirements: Tomatoes need consistent calcium to prevent blossom end rot, a common frustration
Generic “all-purpose” fertilizers often fall short because they don’t account for tomatoes’ shifting nutritional needs throughout the season. A fertilizer that’s perfect for leafy growth early on can actually hurt fruit production later.
Understanding NPK for Tomatoes
Every fertilizer bag displays three numbers—like 10-10-10 or 3-4-6—called the NPK ratio. Understanding these numbers is the key to feeding tomatoes correctly.
What NPK Means
N (Nitrogen): Drives leafy, vegetative growth. Essential early in the season when plants are establishing themselves.
P (Phosphorus): Supports root development and flower/fruit production. Critical once plants start blooming.
K (Potassium): Strengthens overall plant health, disease resistance, and fruit quality. Important throughout the season.
The Ideal NPK Ratio for Tomatoes
Here’s where many gardeners go wrong: tomatoes need different NPK ratios at different growth stages.
Early season (transplant to first flowers): A balanced or slightly nitrogen-heavy fertilizer (like 10-10-10 or 5-5-5) supports strong stem and leaf development. You want robust plants before they start fruiting.
Flowering and fruiting: Switch to a lower-nitrogen, higher-phosphorus formula (like 5-10-10 or 3-4-6). Too much nitrogen now produces beautiful foliage but fewer tomatoes. Phosphorus and potassium drive fruit production.
This two-phase approach is why dedicated tomato fertilizers outperform generic options—they’re already formulated with the right balance for fruiting plants.
Beyond NPK: Secondary Nutrients
The best tomato fertilizers also include:
Calcium: Prevents blossom end rot (that black, sunken spot on the bottom of tomatoes)
Magnesium: Essential for chlorophyll production and photosynthesis
Sulfur: Contributes to disease resistance and flavor development
When comparing products, check for these secondary nutrients—they make a real difference in plant health and fruit quality.
Best Organic Fertilizers for Tomatoes
Organic fertilizers release nutrients slowly as soil microbes break them down, providing steady nutrition without the risk of burning plants. They also improve soil structure over time. Here are the top organic options for tomato growers:
1. FoxFarm Liquid Nutrient Trio
Fox Farm Liquid Nutrient Trio Soil Formula – Big Bloom, Grow Big, Tiger Bloom Pint Size (Pack of 3)
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12/11/2025 09:01 pm GMT
FoxFarm’s trio system (Grow Big, Big Bloom, and Tiger Bloom) is the gold standard for serious tomato growers. The three-bottle system lets you adjust nutrition as plants mature—Grow Big for vegetative growth, then transitioning to Tiger Bloom and Big Bloom during flowering and fruiting.
Why it works: The liquid format provides quick nutrient uptake, while the organic ingredients support beneficial soil biology. It’s particularly effective for container tomatoes where soil nutrients deplete quickly.
Best for: Container gardening, hydroponic setups, and gardeners who want precise control over nutrition at each growth stage.
2. Espoma Tomato-tone
Tomato-tone is a granular organic fertilizer with a 3-4-6 NPK ratio—ideal for fruiting tomatoes. It contains 15 essential nutrients plus beneficial microbes that enhance nutrient uptake.
Why it works: The slow-release formula feeds plants for weeks, reducing the frequency of applications. The added calcium helps prevent blossom end rot without separate supplements.
Best for: In-ground tomatoes and gardeners who prefer a “set and forget” approach to fertilizing.
3. Dr. Earth Organic Tomato Fertilizer
Dr. Earth combines fish bone meal, feather meal, and kelp with their proprietary blend of beneficial soil microbes. The 4-6-3 formula emphasizes phosphorus for abundant flowering.
Why it works: The diverse organic ingredients create a complex nutrient profile that mimics rich, natural soil. The probiotics help plants access nutrients more efficiently.
Best for: Gardeners focused on building long-term soil health alongside immediate plant nutrition.
4. Neptune’s Harvest Fish & Seaweed Fertilizer
This liquid concentrate combines fish hydrolysate with seaweed extract for a nutrient-dense organic option. The 2-3-1 NPK is supplemented by over 60 trace minerals from kelp.
Why it works: The seaweed component provides natural growth hormones and stress-resistance compounds. Plants fed with fish-seaweed fertilizers often show improved disease resistance.
Best for: Gardeners dealing with stressed plants, poor soil, or those wanting to boost overall plant vitality.
Best Synthetic Fertilizers for Tomatoes
Synthetic (chemical) fertilizers deliver nutrients in immediately plant-available forms. They work faster than organics and allow precise control over exactly what your plants receive. Here are the top synthetic options:
1. Miracle-Gro Tomato Plant Food
Amazon’s Choice
FoxFarm Ocean Forest Potting Soil
$33.99
FoxFarm Ocean Forest Potting Soil is a nutrient-rich blend of aged forest products, bat guano, and earthworm castings, perfect for indoor and outdoor plants. Its pH-balanced formula promotes healthy growth, making it ideal for seedlings, transplants, and mature plants.
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01/20/2026 11:01 pm GMT
The classic choice for millions of gardeners. Miracle-Gro’s tomato formula (18-18-21) delivers high concentrations of all three macronutrients plus calcium and micronutrients. It’s water-soluble for quick uptake.
Why it works: Immediate availability means you’ll see results within days, not weeks. The balanced-but-potassium-heavy ratio supports both growth and fruiting.
Best for: Gardeners who want fast, visible results and don’t mind frequent (every 1-2 weeks) applications.
2. Osmocote Smart-Release Plant Food
Osmocote’s coated granules release nutrients gradually over 4-6 months based on soil temperature and moisture. One application can last the entire growing season.
Why it works: The controlled-release technology prevents nutrient burn and eliminates the need for repeated applications. It’s nearly impossible to over-fertilize with Osmocote.
Best for: Busy gardeners, container tomatoes, and anyone who tends to forget regular feeding schedules.
3. Jobe’s Tomato Fertilizer Spikes
Pre-measured fertilizer spikes that you push into the soil around your plants. The 6-18-6 formula is heavily weighted toward phosphorus for maximum fruit production.
Why it works: Zero measuring, zero mixing, zero mess. Push them in every 8 weeks and you’re done. The nutrients release directly into the root zone where plants need them.
Best for: Absolute beginners, gardeners with just a few plants, or anyone who wants the simplest possible fertilizing routine.
4. Jack’s Classic Tomato Feed
A professional-grade water-soluble fertilizer with a 12-15-30 ratio. The extremely high potassium content promotes exceptional fruit quality and flavor development.
Why it works: Originally developed for commercial greenhouse production, Jack’s delivers professional results. The high potassium drives sugar production in fruits, resulting in better-tasting tomatoes.
Best for: Experienced gardeners focused on fruit quality, greenhouse growers, and those with demanding indeterminate varieties.
When to Fertilize Tomatoes: Timing by Growth Stage
Proper timing is just as important as choosing the right fertilizer. Here’s a stage-by-stage breakdown:
At Transplanting
Mix a balanced, slow-release fertilizer or compost into the planting hole. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers right at transplant—they can burn tender roots and push top growth before roots establish.
Pro tip: Add a handful of crusite or eggshells to the planting hole for extra calcium.
Two Weeks After Transplanting
Once plants show new growth (indicating root establishment), begin regular feeding. Start with a balanced fertilizer to support continued vegetative growth.
When Flowers Appear
This is the critical transition point. Switch to a low-nitrogen, high-phosphorus/potassium fertilizer. Continuing heavy nitrogen feeding now results in massive plants with few fruits.
During Fruit Development
Maintain consistent feeding every 2-3 weeks with your flowering/fruiting formula. This is when plants need the most nutrition—they’re simultaneously growing, flowering, and ripening fruit.
Late Season
For indeterminate varieties, continue feeding until 4 weeks before expected first frost. For determinates, you can reduce or stop fertilizing once most fruits have set, as the plant’s job is essentially done.
How to Apply Tomato Fertilizer
Application method matters as much as the product you choose. Here’s how to get the most from your fertilizer:
Granular Fertilizers
Sprinkle around the drip line (edge of the leaf canopy), not against the stem
Scratch lightly into the top inch of soil
Water thoroughly after application
Reapply every 4-6 weeks depending on product
Liquid Fertilizers
Dilute according to package directions (more is NOT better)
Apply to moist soil—never fertilize dry plants
Water at the base, avoiding leaves to prevent burn
Apply every 1-2 weeks during active growth
Foliar Feeding
Some liquid fertilizers can be sprayed directly on leaves for rapid absorption. This works well for addressing specific deficiencies quickly but shouldn’t replace soil feeding.
Spray early morning or evening (never in hot sun)
Use diluted solutions—half strength or less
Cover both tops and undersides of leaves
Container Tomatoes: Special Considerations
Container-grown tomatoes need more frequent fertilizing because:
Limited soil volume means limited nutrient reserves
Frequent watering flushes nutrients out the drainage holes
Roots can’t spread to find additional nutrients
Plan to fertilize containers at half-strength twice as often, or use slow-release granules to maintain consistent nutrition.
Signs of Over-Fertilization and Under-Fertilization
Learning to read your plants helps you adjust your feeding program in real time.
Signs You’re Under-Fertilizing
Yellowing lower leaves: Nitrogen deficiency—older leaves yellow while new growth stays green
Purple-tinged leaves/stems: Phosphorus deficiency, especially in cool weather
Brown leaf edges: Potassium deficiency, often called “leaf scorch”
Stunted growth: General nutrient deficiency across the board
Poor fruit set: Flowers drop without forming fruit, often from phosphorus shortage
Blossom end rot: Calcium deficiency (though inconsistent watering also contributes)
Signs You’re Over-Fertilizing
Lush, dark green foliage but few flowers: Too much nitrogen—plants put energy into leaves instead of fruit
Leaf tip burn: Brown, crispy leaf tips indicate fertilizer salt buildup
White crust on soil surface: Visible salt accumulation from excess fertilizer
Wilting despite moist soil: Root damage from fertilizer burn
Blossom drop: Excessive nitrogen can cause flowers to abort
Recovery tip: If you’ve over-fertilized, flush the soil with plain water (several times the container volume for potted plants). Skip the next 1-2 scheduled feedings to let plants recover.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use regular fertilizer on tomatoes?
You can, but you’ll get better results with tomato-specific fertilizers. General-purpose fertilizers like 10-10-10 work during early growth, but they often have too much nitrogen for the fruiting stage. Tomato fertilizers are formulated with the right nutrient ratios and usually include calcium to prevent blossom end rot.
How often should I fertilize tomatoes?
It depends on the fertilizer type. Liquid fertilizers typically need application every 1-2 weeks. Granular fertilizers last 4-6 weeks. Slow-release formulas like Osmocote may only need one application per season. Container tomatoes generally need more frequent feeding than in-ground plants.
Is organic or synthetic fertilizer better for tomatoes?
Both can produce excellent results. Organic fertilizers improve soil health over time, release nutrients more slowly (reducing burn risk), and support beneficial soil organisms. Synthetic fertilizers work faster, offer precise nutrient control, and cost less per application. Many successful gardeners use both—organics as a base with synthetic supplements when plants need a quick boost.
Should I fertilize tomatoes when it’s hot?
Apply fertilizer in the morning or evening, not during peak heat. Water before and after granular applications. Avoid foliar feeding when temperatures exceed 85°F (29°C)—the combination of fertilizer and heat stress can damage leaves. During extreme heat waves, plants may benefit from reduced fertilizer concentrations since stressed plants can’t efficiently use nutrients.
What’s the best fertilizer for tomatoes in containers?
Liquid fertilizers like FoxFarm’s nutrient trio or water-soluble Miracle-Gro work well because they deliver nutrients immediately and you can easily control the concentration. Alternatively, slow-release granules like Osmocote provide steady nutrition without the need for frequent applications. The key is fertilizing more often than in-ground plants since containers lose nutrients through drainage.
Final Thoughts: Feed Your Tomatoes Right
Growing amazing tomatoes isn’t complicated once you understand their nutritional needs. Start with a quality fertilizer, time your applications to match growth stages, and pay attention to what your plants tell you.
Remember the key principles:
Balanced fertilizer early, low-nitrogen/high-phosphorus once flowering begins
Consistent feeding beats heavy occasional doses
Include calcium to prevent blossom end rot
Container plants need more frequent feeding than in-ground tomatoes
Watch your plants and adjust based on what you see
Whether you choose organic options like FoxFarm and Espoma or synthetic choices like Miracle-Gro and Osmocote, the most important thing is consistency. Feed your tomatoes regularly throughout the season, and they’ll reward you with a harvest worth bragging about.
Now get out there and grow some incredible tomatoes!
Composting transforms kitchen scraps and yard waste into garden gold. This natural process creates nutrient-rich soil amendment that improves soil structure, feeds beneficial organisms, and helps plants thrive. Here’s your complete guide to starting and maintaining a compost pile.
Air – Aerobic bacteria need oxygen to work efficiently
Moisture – Pile should be damp like a wrung-out sponge
What to Compost
Greens (Nitrogen)
Fruit and vegetable scraps
Coffee grounds and tea bags
Fresh grass clippings
Plant trimmings
Eggshells (technically neutral, but fine)
Browns (Carbon)
Dried leaves
Straw or hay
Cardboard (shredded)
Paper (not glossy)
Wood chips or sawdust
Dryer lint (from natural fibers)
What NOT to Compost
Meat, fish, and bones (attract pests)
Dairy products (attract pests, smell bad)
Oils and fats
Diseased plants
Weeds with seeds
Pet waste (contains pathogens)
Treated wood
Composting Methods
Basic Pile
Simply pile materials in a corner of your yard. Free but slow and can look messy. Works best with lots of brown materials.
Enclosed Bins
Contain the pile and look neater. Many styles from DIY pallets to commercial tumblers. Good for suburban yards.
Tumbling Composters
Enclosed drums that spin for easy turning. Produce finished compost faster than static piles. Good for small spaces.
Worm Composting (Vermicomposting)
Red wiggler worms process food scraps into ultra-rich castings. Perfect for apartments and indoor composting. Requires more management but produces premium compost.
Maintaining Your Compost
Turning
Mixing adds oxygen and speeds decomposition. Turn every 1-2 weeks for fastest results, or let it sit and compost slowly.
Moisture
Keep the pile moist but not soggy. Add water during dry spells; add browns if it gets too wet.
Balance
Aim for roughly 3:1 browns to greens by volume. Too many greens creates odor; too many browns slows decomposition.
Troubleshooting
Smells bad: Too wet or too many greens – add browns and turn
Not decomposing: Too dry or too many browns – add water and greens
Pests: Bury food scraps deep, avoid meat and dairy
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Conclusion
Composting is easier than most people think. Start simple with a basic pile or bin, learn as you go, and soon you’ll be producing black gold for your raised bed gardens and container gardens.
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Mulch is one of the most powerful tools in a gardener’s arsenal. A proper mulch layer suppresses weeds, retains moisture, regulates soil temperature, and adds organic matter as it breaks down. Here’s everything you need to know about mulching your garden effectively.
Benefits of Mulching
Weed suppression – Blocks light that weed seeds need to germinate
Moisture retention – Reduces evaporation by up to 70%
Temperature regulation – Keeps soil cooler in summer, warmer in winter
Soil improvement – Organic mulches feed soil life as they decompose
Erosion prevention – Protects soil from rain and wind
Cleaner produce – Keeps soil from splashing onto fruits and vegetables
Types of Organic Mulch
Wood Chips
Long-lasting and attractive. Best for paths, perennial beds, and around trees and shrubs. Can temporarily tie up nitrogen if mixed into soil, so keep on the surface.
Shredded Leaves
Free and abundant in fall. Shred leaves before applying to prevent matting. Excellent for vegetable gardens and flower beds. Break down within one season.
Straw
Classic vegetable garden mulch. Light, easy to apply, and breaks down quickly. Use seed-free straw (not hay, which contains weed seeds). Great around strawberries, tomatoes, and squash.
Grass Clippings
Another free option. Apply in thin layers to prevent matting and odor. Don’t use clippings treated with herbicides. Rich in nitrogen as they decompose.
Compost
Finished compost makes excellent mulch that also feeds plants. More expensive than other options but provides the most soil benefits.
Pine Needles
Attractive and long-lasting. Contrary to myth, they don’t significantly acidify soil. Perfect for acid-loving plants and pathways.
How to Apply Mulch
Depth
Apply 2-4 inches for most organic mulches. Finer materials like compost can be thinner (1-2 inches). Coarser materials like wood chips can go thicker.
Spacing
Keep mulch a few inches away from plant stems and tree trunks. Mulch piled against stems can cause rot and invite pests.
Timing
In spring, wait until soil warms before mulching vegetable gardens. For winter protection, apply mulch after the ground freezes.
Mulching Mistakes to Avoid
Volcano mulching – Piling mulch against tree trunks causes bark rot
Too thick – Over-mulching can suffocate roots and repel water
Too thin – Less than 2 inches won’t suppress weeds effectively
Wrong material – Fresh wood chips in vegetable beds can rob nitrogen
Ignoring renewal – Replenish mulch as it decomposes, usually yearly
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Conclusion
Mulching is simple, inexpensive, and dramatically improves garden health. Start with free materials like leaves and grass clippings, then experiment with other mulches to find what works best in your garden.
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Smart garden technology has revolutionized how we grow plants in 2026. From AI-powered watering systems to app-controlled grow lights, these innovative tools make gardening easier and more productive than ever. Here’s our guide to the best smart garden tools for the modern grower.
Why Smart Garden Tools?
Smart gardening tools take the guesswork out of plant care. They monitor soil conditions, automate watering schedules, and even alert you when your plants need attention. For busy gardeners or beginners, these tools can mean the difference between thriving plants and disappointed harvests.
Top Smart Garden Tools for 2026
1. Smart Soil Moisture Sensors
These wireless sensors monitor soil moisture levels in real-time and send alerts to your phone when plants need water. Many models also track light levels, temperature, and soil nutrients.
Best for: Container gardens, houseplants, raised beds
Price range: $15-50 per sensor
2. Automated Drip Irrigation Systems
App-controlled drip irrigation takes the hassle out of watering. Set schedules, adjust flow rates, and monitor water usage from your smartphone. Some systems even integrate with weather data to skip watering when rain is expected.
Best for: Vegetable gardens, flower beds, greenhouse growing
Price range: $50-200 for complete kits
3. Smart Grow Lights
LED grow lights with app control let you customize light spectrums, set timers, and simulate sunrise/sunset cycles. The latest models use AI to automatically adjust lighting based on plant growth stage.
Best for: Indoor growing, seed starting, winter gardening
Price range: $40-300 depending on coverage area
4. Wi-Fi Weather Stations
Garden-specific weather stations track hyperlocal conditions including temperature, humidity, rainfall, wind speed, and UV index. This data helps you make better decisions about planting, watering, and pest prevention.
Best for: Outdoor gardens, orchards, serious hobbyists
Price range: $100-300
5. Smart Planters with Self-Watering
These high-tech containers handle watering automatically using reservoir systems and moisture sensors. Perfect for travelers or anyone who tends to forget watering schedules.
Best for: Herbs, houseplants, apartment gardening
Price range: $30-150
What to Look for in Smart Garden Tech
Battery life: Look for long-lasting batteries or solar-powered options
App quality: Read reviews about the companion app’s reliability
Connectivity: Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, or hub-based systems each have pros and cons
Compatibility: Check if devices work with your existing smart home system
Weather resistance: Outdoor sensors should be waterproof and UV-resistant
Budget-Friendly Smart Gardening
You don’t need to spend a fortune to get started with smart gardening. Begin with a single soil moisture sensor for your most temperamental plant, then expand your system over time. Many gardeners find that even basic automation saves them time and improves results.
The Future of Garden Technology
Looking ahead, expect to see more AI integration, better plant recognition apps, and even robotic helpers for weeding and harvesting. The smart garden revolution is just getting started.
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Conclusion
Smart garden tools in 2026 offer unprecedented convenience and control over your growing environment. Whether you’re a tech enthusiast or simply want healthier plants with less effort, there’s a smart solution for every garden and budget.
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NO BATTERY NEEDED: Simply insert the meter into soil, wait few minutes, accurate test results will be displayed on the readout panel. No battery is needed.
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Aglaonema, the Chinese evergreen is a low-maintenance and versatile houseplant that comes in wide varieties. This plant is great for adding a bit of color to any working or residential area if well taken care of. In this article, we will give you the best Aglaonema care guide that will help you to get the best out of these stunning plants.
Some of the qualities that make Aglaonema such a popular and ideal houseplant include its unique, lush, and beautiful foliage. With these qualities, there is no reason why you would not consider having this plant in your living or working space. Another great advantage of this plant is that it adapts really well to different environmental conditions. If you want to know what these conditions are and how best to get your Chinese evergreen to thrive in them, keep reading.
Aglaonema
Agloanema, commonly known as the Chinese evergreen is a plant that is Native to the forest areas of Asia. Because this plant grows under canopies of taller plants where it is shielded from direct sunlight, it has adapted to low light conditions. This is one of the qualities that makes it such a good indoor plant.
When planted indoors, they grow to sizes of 12-24 inches in height. They can be almost as wide as they are long and have lance-shaped leaves. Because it starts small and grows quite slowly, you can keep them on your desks for anywhere between 12-18 months before it gets too big.
Few plants are as easy or easier to care for as the Chinese evergreen. Although it is adapted to low light conditions due to its natural habitat, it can also tolerate fluorescent lighting indoors if provided with it.
There are hundreds of different varieties of Aglaonemas and they have different environmental requirements to thrive. It is therefore essential to know the particular variety of the one you have so you can give it just the right growing environments it requires.
Aglaonemas Plant Care
As with all other plants, there are ideal environmental conditions you need to maintain to keep them happy. We will discuss these below.
Temperature
Aglaonema prefers temperatures between 65-75°F degrees Fahrenheit to thrive. They can tolerate temperatures of about 10 degrees Fahrenheit outside this range without suffering any serious damage. Feed your Aglaonema monthly during the spring and summer, when the temperatures are within this range.
Light exposure
Due to the natural habitat of this plant, it prefers bright but indirect sunlight. Never expose it to full sun as it may cause leaf burn and may ultimately kill the plant.
If you keep the plant indoors, artificial or fluorescent light will be enough to keep it alive and growing.
The light tolerance levels vary between Aglaonema varieties. The darker green varieties of this plant can tolerate low light intensities. The ones with lighter-colored leaves, however, prefer bright and indirect light. An example of these light-leafed varieties is the Aglaonema Osaka.
In general, the more colorful varieties of the plant, such as those with pinks, reds, and peaches need more light to maintain their vibrancy.
Newer cultivars of Aglaonema have bright colors such as red and pink. These normally do not do well in low-light conditions. They can, however, survive in such conditions. But if you notice that they are losing their color, simply move them to an area with more light and you should notice their color should start to come back.
Humidity
Chinese evergreen plants prefer more humidity than most homes and indoor spaces can provide. This means that you should provide them with supplemental humidity. You can boost humidity levels in their environment by putting the plant in a pebble tray, using a humidifier, or putting the plants in a group with other plants.
You can also try misting your plants once to a few times each week. This will only make a minor difference in terms of improving humidity levels. It does however offer the potential benefit of getting rid of pests that may be trying to infest your plant.
Soil moisture and watering
Chinese evergreen plants like to stay moist but not soaking wet. When you water the plant, make sure that the water drains completely each time so that it does not get waterlogged. Only water if the first two inches of the soil are dry.
Overwatering can cause the plant leaves to turn yellow, and the roots of the plant to rot. Another sign of overwatering may be the yellowing of the tanks, as well as mushy stalks and leaves.
Repotting
To repot your plants, use good soil with peat and pine bark blended. Never use peat moss directly or by itself as it colds too much water and will not allow the roots of your plant to dry out as needed.
Repot Chinese evergreens once every 12-18 months. Use the same vessel with new soil, and trim away some of the roots and leaves. Repotting should be done in the spring or summer months only, this is when they are actively growing and have the best chance of surviving the repot.
If you are repotting a larger plant, do it every 18-24 months. Use a new pot that is about 2-4″ larger than the current one. This will give room for the plant to grow.
Fertilizing
Any good, balanced houseplant fertilizer will work for Aglaonema. Feed your Aglaonema monthly during the spring and summer while they are actively growing. Reduce the amount of fertilizer you give them in the fall and completely stop feeding in the winter months as the plants enter dormancy.
Providing fertilizer to the plants in the winter when they do not need the nutrients for growth can lead to fertilizer buildup in the soil, which will burn the roots over time.
Rotate your plant
Rotate your Chinese evergreens from time to time so that they get all sides exposed to sunlight so the plant can grow evenly.
Inspect your plants for pests
When taking care of your plants, and dusting the leaves, make sure that you inspect especially the underside of the plant to check for any pests that need to be removed before they cause any damage to the plant.
How to Grow Aglaonema
Aglaonema are very low-maintenance plants that are great for even the novice gardener or plant parent. Here are some points on how to grow Chinese evergreens.
1: Use well-draining soil to grow your plants
They do really well in well-draining soils as they do not like to have their roots permanently submerged in water. You can add some perlite to the potting soil if you need better drainage.
2: Provide them with indirect, bright light
Never expose your Chinese evergreens to direct sunlight as it may burn the leaves.
3: Let the soil dry between waterings
This will give the plant roots room to breathe so the plant can grow efficiently. Water only when the top 2 inches of the soil has dried.
4: Repot
Repot the plant as required.
5: Ideal temperature
Maintain ideal temperatures of between 65-75°F degrees Fahrenheit, and high humidity for your plant to thrive.
6: Fertilize the right time
Fertilize your plants in the spring and summer months and never in the winter.
Aglaonema care indoors is the same as outdoors. The environmental conditions that you should provide the plants are the same regardless of where they are planted. If they are indoors, however, it is easier to get the environmental conditions right as you can manipulate them.
Types of Aglaonema
There are many different varieties of Aglaonema that you can cultivate. In the past, there were only green and cream varieties available. However, there are many different Aglaonema shades that you can find. There are more colorful Aglaonema in colors such as pink, red, and peach. Here are five of the most common varieties;
Aglaonema Commutatum (Emerald Beauty) – also known as the Maria. It is one of the older varieties and has dark green leaves with light green stripes.
Aglaonema (Sparkling Sarah) – has pink stems and midribs. It also has pink mottling on the green leaves of the plant.
Ruby Red – The leaves of this Chinese evergreen variety are a beautiful bright red and have stems with a shade of pink.
Aglaonema Commutatum (Silver Bay) – The leaves of this variety have a light silver leaf variegation.
Siam Aurora Red – has ed stems and midribs. The leaves also have a red frame.
Problems Associated With Chinese Evergreen Plants
While these plants are some of the easiest to take care of, they can have their fair share of issues that you should be aware of in case you ever have to deal with them.
The number one issue is susceptibility to pest infestations. Chinese evergreen plans are susceptible to spider mites, mealybugs, and scale. They get infested most of the time because they are not healthy and stressed. Opportunistic bigs use this window to destroy them.
Keeping your plants in their best health will help you to avoid this. You can also use this leaf wellness spray to prevent infestations.
Yellowing of leaves is another common occurrence. This usually signals that your plants are stressed. Investigate which of their environmental conditions are not ideal and remedy it as soon as possible. Your plants should return to good health in no time.
Dropping leaves or leaf curls are other indicators of stress on plants. This can be a consequence of leaf burn from direct sunlight. If you notice this, move your plants away from sunlight.
Unfortunately, Chinese evergreen plants are toxic to dogs, cats, and horses. If you have any pets in your house, you will need to keep them out of their reach.
Conclusion – Aglaonema Care Guide: How to Grow Chinese Evergreen
Aglaonema are such low-maintenance plants that anyone can keep them in their home or office. So whether you are a novice or an experienced hardener, these plants can be a great addition to your space.
We hope that you found this Aglaonema care guide useful and that you will be well on your way to growing and maintaining these beautiful plants.
The most important thing to do is provide them with the kind of environmental conditions that mimic their natural habitat. These are; high humidity, moderate temperatures, and indirect bright light.
Happy growing!
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The potato is one of the world’s most commonly grown, consumed, and versatile vegetables. Its ease of growth contributes to its popularity. Knowing how many potatoes will grow per plant is crucial to knowing how your plants will perform and to deciding how many you should plant to fulfill your needs.
How many potatoes will grow per plant will depend on certain factors such as the type or variety of potatoes being grown, environmental conditions, and how well their growing needs are being met.
Keep reading to know how many potato plants to plant to ensure that you harvest enough to last you and your family until the next growing season.
How Many Potatoes Per Plant?
How many potatoes per plant can you expect from your harvest? Under ideal growing conditions, the average number of potatoes a potato plant can produce per plant is between three and eight. Different varieties may produce fewer or more potatoes than others. The tubers’ sizes may also differ, ranging from small to extra large.
If you want to provide for a family, about 40 potato plants may be sufficient for the year. If these plants all grow healthily until harvest, you should expect a harvest of around 125 pounds of potatoes.
How Many Potatoes Grow From One Potato Seed?
Seed potatoes vary significantly in size. A small-sized seed potato is planted whole, and a single potato can be produced per plant. However, Larger seed potatoes can be cut into halves or quarters, grown, and produced between two and four potato plants.
Planting seed potatoes whole will usually produce more vigorous plants. It is, therefore, unnecessary to cut the seed potato unless it is huge.
A single-seed potato that grows well will produce one plant, and this one plant will produce between 8 and 10 full-sized potatoes. In addition, each potato plant is likely to have a couple of smaller baby potatoes as well.
Do Different Potato Varieties Produce the Same Number of Potatoes Per Seed?
How many potatoes per plant seed can differ between different cultivars? To find out how many potatoes your particular variety will produce, read the plant descriptions on the packaging or the resources available online.
However, the average yield per potato plant listed assumes that ideal growing conditions are met for that particular potato variety. If the conditions are not ideal, the plant may produce fewer potatoes or nothing at all.
Ideal Growing Conditions for Optimal Potato Yield
While different potato cultivars will have different specific environmental conditions for maximum yield, here are some things you can do to help ensure that you get optimal productivity out of your potatoes:
1. Planting distance
Potatoes are tubers that grow underground. Because of this, they need plenty of space to grow, so it is important to provide them with sufficient room.
If potatoes are planted too closely, young tubers will not grow as well as you would expect them to, resulting in a poor yield.
Another reason not to plant them too closely is that they will compete for nutrients, further negatively impacting their growth.
Potato plants should be planted 12 -14 inches apart and have 3 feet between rows to achieve the best growth and optimum yield. If you plan to harvest your potatoes at the baby stage, however, you can plant them closer to each other, as they will require less space to grow.
If you have adhered to this recommended planting distance, you should not have to worry about the possibility of them crowding up in the soil. They will adjust themselves and spread out as needed, provided the soil they are planted in is right. The plant roots and tubers will grow well.
2. Planting depth
How deep you plant your seed potatoes will have a massive impact on the eventual yield. Seed potatoes need to have enough soil covering them so that no part of the tuber is left exposed. If they do not get completely covered and are exposed to the sun, they will turn green due to the solanine in them. If these potatoes are consumed, they will cause solanine poisoning. Green potatoes should not be eaten and must be immediately discarded. This will lead to a loss of crop yield.
The best depth to plant your potatoes is 4-6 inches. Start with this depth and hill them up as the plants continue to grow taller to keep them protected.
You can hill your potatoes up by mounding the soil around them with a spade, hoe, or other implement that you have. Hill them up to within 2-3 inches of the plant foliage. Start hilling them when the plants have attained a height of 8-10 inches, and repeat the process when they get new growth of 8-10 inches.
The process of hilling your plants will help to provide them with sufficient soil for adequate growth and expansion of tubers underground. The higher level of soil will also help to support the growing foliage on top of the ground. If your plants are not provided with enough soil, they will be exposed to the sun, which will diminish your crop yield.
3. Soil type
Potato tubers need to be planted in loose soil for them to grow well and expand underground. Using loose, soft, and well-draining soil will help to increase your potato yield. Potatoes require plenty of space to spread their roots and grow large potatoes.
Growing potatoes in compacted soil will produce only small potatoes as they will struggle to push against the dirt to increase in size.
4. Soil fertility
Soil fertility is an important aspect of increasing your potato yield. Before your potatoes are planted, apply a suitable fertilizer to the soil. It is important to use a fertilizer that is specific for potatoes when you first plant them and mid-way through the season so that they get the boost of nutrients they need to produce as many potatoes as they can.
Use a 5-10-10 fertilizer in the planting rows and carefully work it into the soil. Follow the instructions on the packaging container. You must also side-dress the potatoes with the same fertilizer before the first hilling.
5. Soil moisture
Potatoes need adequate, but not too much watering. Potatoes need about 1 to 2 inches of rain per week. If your area does not receive this amount of rain, you will need t give your potatoes supplemental water.
Water your potatoes enough to saturate the soil up to the level of the roots and tubers. Water each time the first two inches of the soil feel dry.
Going for long periods without watering or adequate water will lead to malformations of your potato tubers, which can lead to poor yields. This is because insufficient moisture will cause the potato tubers to grow slowly if they even grow at all.
If you resumed watering your potatoes or got plenty of rain after a period of no rain, it will cause the tubers to grow rapidly and split or develop malformations.
To get the best yield out of your potatoes, and get the best shapes, you will need to water them regularly during their growing season.
6. Pests
Pests can have a detrimental impact on your potato crop yield. Treat them as soon as you notice them before they have any significant damage to the plants. Insect pests such as the Colorado potato beetle can completely destroy the foliage of the plants. If this happens, the growth of tubers underground will stop because the plants will not have enough support. Eventually, you will have reduced yield and small potatoes.
7. Sunlight exposure
Like all other plants, potato plants require sunlight to carry out photosynthesis. Without sufficient sunlight, the growth of the plant will slow down and result in your potato yield is poor.
Make sure you plant your potatoes in an area that receives at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight each day, for the entire duration of the growing cycle. The plants can and will grow with less light, however, their growth will not be as good as it would be if they received more light. So to get the best growth, health, and ultimately good yield from your potatoes, provide them with plenty of sunlight.
8. Proper hilling
Hilling your potatoes at the time they are first planted, and one or two more times during their growing season will help improve crop yield. Hilling provides support for the growing plant foliage, which will force it to grow upwards toward the sunlight and consequently increase the growth of tubers.
9. Choosing the right potato variety
There are hundreds of potato varieties to choose from that are readily available from local seed stores and online shops. Before you choose the variety to grow. Do a bit of research around it to find out if it is suited to your climate, or if you will be able to provide it with the growing conditions it requires.
It is also helpful to know information such as the length of the growing season, the amount of space they need for growth, specific uses of that particular potato, and as well as resistance or susceptibility to disease and parasites.
Potato varieties such as Pontiac Red, Kennebec White, and Purple Majesty are all great varieties of potatoes that consistently produce high yields of potatoes. If you are you do not know much about potato varieties, you can begin by researching these three to see which one would be best suited to your environment.
10. Plant your potatoes at the right time
Potato plants have an ideal time that they should be planted to get the best chance of survival. You should plant them when the soil warms up to about 45 degrees Fahrenheit. In most areas, that would be about two weeks after the last frost date.
While looking at the timing, it is also key to monitor the soil moisture content. If you have had a wet spring, wait a few weeks until the ground has dried up a bit. If the soil is too wet, it can cause the potato tubers to rot.
If you have no choice but to plant potatoes earlier than this, look for the varieties that mature earlier, as they are better able to withstand cold conditions. You can plant these up to six weeks before the last first date.
How Many Potatoes Does a Potato Plant Produce?
Typically, a single potato plant will produce anywhere between 3 and 5 pounds of potatoes. This may be enough to feed a family of four people twice.
Keep in mind, however, that different varieties of potatoes will produce different numbers of potatoes. In addition to this, the growing conditions such as sunlight, nutrient provision, adequate growing space, and a good irrigation schedule have to be maintained well to achieve optimum growth.
Can I Use Store-Bought Potatoes as Seeds?
Technically, yes. Store-bought potatoes can be used as seeds to grow potatoes. You will have figured this out when you left potatoes out for too long and they started sprouting. If you plant them in the ground during the right growing season, you should harvest some potatoes.
However, potato growth experts advise against using shop potatoes as seeds. They recommend only using certified potatoes to plant in your garden.
The reasons for this include that potato growers put sprout inhibitors to slow down the rate of budding when the potatoes are being shipped, and while they are at the store. This may cause the potatoes to grow weak or not produce any growth when planted.
Another reason that you should not use shop potatoes as seeds is that they often contain a lot of microorganisms and diseases. These can easily spread to plants and completely destroy all other plants in your garden. Seed potatoes that are certified will come with a guarantee that they are free of any diseases or microorganisms that can destroy the potato and other crops.
Certified seed potatoes are usually strong and healthy, and have a higher chance of having vigorous growth, producing large and strong potatoes, and ultimately a good yield.
How Do I Know That My Potatoes Are Growing
Because potatoes grow underground, it may be difficult, especially for new and inexperienced growers to be able to tell what stage their plants are at. It can be difficult to tell whether or not your potato tubers are growing. There are signs that you can look out for.
Flowering is a great indicator that your potatoes have started growing. If you want to harvest your potatoes in the baby stage, you can go ahead and do so at this point. After the flowers have come and gone, the foliage at the top of the soil will die back. This is so that the plant will start directing its energy towards growing the tubers larger. If you want to harvest full-sized potatoes, you should do so after the plants have died back.
Another way to know that your potatoes have matured is when the stems of the plants have started to go yellow and die off. This usually happens at the end of summer, or early in the fall.
If you still want a bit of reassurance that your potatoes are ready to harvest, you can dig a small test spot and get a few tubers out to gauge if they are at your desired harvest size.
Quick Summary – How Many Potatoes Per Plant (and From ONE Seed)
Different varieties of potatoes will produce different amounts of potatoes at harvest time. You will need to read the information on the seed packaging to get an idea of how many potatoes per plant your particular variety will produce. Generally, with potatoes, however, if the plant is healthy, you can expect to dig up about five or six full-size potatoes per plant.
Potato plants yield from five to 10 potatoes per plant depending on the variety, climate, and whether the growing conditions of the plants are met. Usually, a single potato plant produces anywhere between 3 and 5 pounds of potatoes. Knowing this can help you to plan how many plants to plant to you can have enough potatoes until the next growing season.
Follow the guidelines and tips provided in this article to increase your potato plant harvest. Remember that a single plant has the potential to produce between three and four pounds of potatoes, and a single seed potato will produce above four or five plants. Start from there and then plan how many potato plants to plant for an adequate supply.
We hope this article has given you all the information you need to know on how many potatoes per plant you can expect from your potato plant. Happy growing!
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How much bone meal per tomato plant? This article will help you determine how much bone meal you should give per tomato plant and how to effectively use bone meal for tomatoes.
Tomatoes are heavy feeders and require a lot of nutrients. Bone meal is one of the easiest ways to give an extra boost to your tomato’s health and growth. Let’s take a closer look at using bone meal for tomatoes.
Bone Meal Nutrition Facts
Bone meal made from animal bones is rich in phosphorus, calcium, and nitrogen. It can be used as fertilizer for tomato plants. Both fresh and dried bone meals are available on the market; however, make sure that you buy organic bone meals without any chemical fertilizers or fillers added.
Fresh bone meal contains a high amount of water (moisture) which can cause problems if not removed before storage. The dried form provides more nutrient content than the fresh form because it has fewer moisture contents; thus, making it easy to store for a long time without spoiling.
One tablespoon of bone meal provides seven grams of phosphorus and nine grams of calcium, which equals 13% of the recommended daily value (RDA) for phosphorus and 18% RDA for calcium.
Bone meal supplies important nutrients that help encourage health in plants because it contains both phosphorus and calcium. The ratio between these two minerals can affect how each nutrient contributes to your plants’ overall health. Using too much phosphorus can cause growth problems, especially for seedlings. Excessive phosphorus can stunt a plant’s root growth and interfere with how well a plant absorbs other nutrients.
Bone meal is an organic fertilizer that contains a high amount of calcium, an essential nutrient for promoting strong cell wall development in new blossoms and fruits. Calcium also helps fruit to mature properly after harvest.
You should use bone meal as soon as possible after opening the package because the moisture from the soil or environment may cause it to become moldy or change color over time.
Is Bone Meal Good for Tomatoes?
Bone meal is good for tomato plants. It contains a high amount of calcium that helps in fruit formation. It contains nitrogen and phosphorus which are required by plants to produce chlorophyll while the growing stage and calcium during the fruiting stage.
Please note: you can add bone meal directly to the soil without any preparation or cooking process. However, if you want it cooked before adding it to the soil, you can add it to the compost because raw bone meal contains a high amount of ammonia that can burn roots once mixed with soil.
Now that we know the benefits of this organic fertilizer to tomatoes, how much bone meal per tomato plant?
Use 3 pounds of fresh or 1 pound of dried bone meals for 100 square feet of garden space. For example, how much bone meal per 10 tomato plants? You will need 1/2 pound of bone meal per tomato plant.
Can You Add Too Much Bone Meal?
It is possible to add too much bone meal and hurt your crops. Do not add too much bone meal to the soil because it will cause phytotoxicity in tomato plants. Excess amounts of nitrogen contained in it can damage leaves and slow down fruit formation or growth.
You should avoid adding more than 0.25% nitrogen level to the soil because even if it contains plenty of phosphorus, calcium, magnesium, zinc, copper, sulfur, and other nutrients, an excess amount of nitrogen will burn the roots after absorption by the soil.
Bone Meal for Tomatoes Benefits
Ways to use bone meal for tomato plants:
To boost the health of tomato plants, you can give it every week during the first couple of months of growth. You can also use it as transplanting fertilizer or seedling fertilizers at half the rate of how much you would give to mature plants later on. Bone meal works well for this purpose because it is rich in phosphorus which helps with root formation and healthier stem structure.
Bone meal gives a calcium source that is beneficial for both humans and soil microbes. Calcium accelerates the decomposition speed of dead materials, thus increasing nutrient availability to growing tomatoes faster than compost alone. Organic matter content also improves due to the presence of calcium in bone meal.
Can You Add Bone Meal After Planting?
Bone meal can be added after planting tomatoes if it is dry. However, do not add bone meal to the soil until you are ready to transplant seedlings into them because tomato plants cannot grow properly when nitrogen levels are too high. Especially for seeds that have just emerged, adding too much bone meal will result in yellow leaves or stunted growth.
If you want to use bone meal for tomatoes as fertilizer, it is better to mix organic fertilizers with soil before planting tomatoes.
Bone meal can be used with other organic fertilizers. For example, blood meal, cottonseed meal, and kelp extracts. This combination will provide essential nutrients needed by growing tomatoes. If bone meal is added directly into the garden or container without mixing with other ingredients first, soil microbes may not be able to absorb them properly which can lead to loss of nutrients in time.
Bone meal works best when mixed with compost piles because they allow microbes to break down the materials slowly over time.
You should always water your tomato plants after adding any kind of fertilizers into the soil because soluble nitrogen releases quickly into roots which affects how well it absorbs water. Watering your plants first will allow them to take up the nutrients gradually without getting too much nitrogen.
Using Sugar, Epsom Salt, and Bone Meal for Tomatoes
You may be wondering how else you can use bone meal for your tomatoes. I’ve found that the use of bone meal, along with sugar and Epsom salt works very well. These three are a good trio because the sugar adds sweetness to your tomatoes, the Epsom salts add both sulfur and magnesium and the bone meal adds phosphorus.
To plant your tomatoes, you’ll need to make a hole larger than you usually would for your tomatoes. Then you’ll need to add a cup of bone meal and a cup of sugar, along with a reasonable amount of mulch. Mix them and place them in your hole, evenly distributing them in the soil.
Carefully place your tomato plant into the soil; be sure to bury it reasonably deep. Once planted, add around a cup of Epsom salts on top and mix them into the top of your soil using your hands. Finally, water your tomato plants with a good amount of water – and your tomatoes are ready to go.
Disadvantages of Bone Meal
We’ve already looked at the benefits of using bone meal for your tomato plants, but you may be wondering if there are any disadvantages. While there aren’t too many negatives, there are a few that you may want to be aware of. Let’s take a closer look.
You can only use bone meal in soils below 7 on the pH scale. This may not be ideal. However, a good alternative is rock phosphate, which we’ll be taking a look at later in this article.
If you’re looking for a quick fix, then this probably isn’t the best choice for you, as it’s a fertilizing choice that releases slowly.
If used too much, overfertilization can occur. If this happens, problems may arise for your tomato plants such as yellowing leaves. It can also lead to deficiencies in other nutrients, like zinc and iron.
If not used correctly, the smell can attract unwanted wildlife. However, as long as it’s adequately mixed in, this should not be a problem.
Bone meal is only a good source of phosphorus, so you’ll need to use other fertilizers too, to ensure your tomato plants are receiving all of the nutrients they need.
Rock Phosphate vs Bone Meal
Earlier, we mentioned rock phosphate, which is a great alternative to bone meal, if you’d prefer. However, there are quite a few differences between the two. Let’s take an in-depth look at the two.
They’re similar in that they both contain phosphorus. However, that is where the similarities start and end. The differences between the two are that for the short supply of phosphorus, bone meal is best, whereas, for a long-term supply, phosphorus is best, as it’s slower.
Another main difference between the two is the price. Bone meal starts at around $13 per lb, whereas rock phosphate starts at around $30 per lb. So if you’re looking for a more affordable option, it’s best to use bone meal.
Rock phosphate works best on flowers and other leafy plants, whereas bone meal works best on rooted plants, such as carrots and onions. However, you can choose to use both together, if you’d prefer – and reap the benefits of both.
Final Thoughts: Bone Meal for Tomatoes
Bone meal for tomatoes is beneficial in most cases. Adding too much nitrogen to the soil will hurt plants, although you can add it if your plants are mature enough. You should only use bone meal after preparing the soil with compost or manure and not mix it directly into planting holes.
It s evident that bone meal provides your tomatoes with plenty of benefits like boosting up the nutrient content of the soil, by adding calcium source which creates healthier stem structure and roots.
FAQs
How should you mix bone meals for best results?
You should not mix it directly with planting holes because adding too much phosphorus can affect how healthy tomatoes grow even if they are combined with other organic fertilizers. Therefore, it is better to prepare compost piles or manure before mixing into the soil or using as transplant fertilizer after seeds have germinated and grown some roots.
When should I start fertilizing my tomato plants?
Bone meal should be added to the soil when the first set of tomatoes starts growing. Wait until your plant is about 6 – 8 inches tall before adding bone meal fertilizer. If you add it too early, it will affect how healthy or how tall they grow.
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As someone who’s been growing his own plants, I can say that one of the most beneficial nutrients I gave my crops is sugar. I know it might sound weird; after all, sugar is deemed unhealthy for people. However, the same can’t be said for plants.
For them, sugar can act as a valuable source of nutrients and energy, thereby boosting the overall quantity and quality of your harvest. In this article, we’re going to answer the question: how often should I use molasses on my plants?
When Should I Add Molasses to My Plants?
When plants start to mature and bloom, they will need more carbohydrates than they can produce. While molasses can be beneficial for plants throughout their entire life cycle, it is best if you add it during your plants’ transition from their vegetative to the blooming stage. The reason is that it is during these stages that their sugar need is at their highest.
With the extra carbohydrates found in molasses, you can give your plants a major boost and help them produce more flowers than usual.
However, before you even grab your bottle of molasses and start pouring it on your plants, here are a few things you should know first.
What is Molasses?
Molasses is basically the by-product of sugar beets or sugar cane and is extracted from the said crops to collect a highly viscous liquid. Despite being a by-product, it is actually rich in essential vitamins and minerals. This explains why molasses can be used to provide plants with the nutrients they need as well.
Using Molasses for Gardening
Using molasses for growing plants is actually something that has been put into practice for quite some time already. Since it contains a lot of calcium, iron, potassium, magnesium, sulfur, and lots of micronutrients, you can use them to provide your plants with a quick source of energy. Apart from that, it can also encourage the growth of microorganisms to help your plants grow.
The key minerals which make molasses healthy for people can be beneficial for plants as well. For instance, calcium and potassium play an important role during a plant’s budding and flowering stages. What makes it even better is the fact that molasses can act as a natural “chelating” agent, thereby binding nutrients so they can be absorbed by the plants.
When molasses are combined with organic fertilizers, you can create food that is used by the healthy microbes found in the soil. The higher the number of healthy microbes, the healthier your plants will get.
Benefits of Using Molasses on Plants
Earlier, we talked about molasses being beneficial for plants. However, how exactly is it good for them? To learn more about it, here are the benefits of molasses on plants worth noting:
It comes with a high carbohydrate content
Due to molasses being a by-product of the sugar refining process, it is packed with carbohydrates which serve as an instant food source for healthy microbes in the soil. By regularly feeding the soil, they will be able to support more beneficial microbes. This, in turn, will provide the plants with more nutrients that are essential for optimal health and growth.
It contains trace minerals
Another important benefit of molasses is that it contains a good amount of trace minerals which are essential for your plant’s growth. These trace minerals come in the form of calcium, iron, potassium, and sulfur which are all helpful in keeping your plants healthy.
It can act as a chelating agent
As mentioned earlier, molasses can act as a chelating agent. This is important since some nutrients are “locked” in the soil, thereby making it hard, even impossible, for plants to absorb. Molasses binds these “locked” nutrients through the process known as chelation.
As a result, molasses will “unlock” those nutrients, making them easy to absorb for the plants.
How to Apply It to Your Plants
Now that you’ve known when you should apply molasses to your plants, the next step is to apply it. Before you do so, do keep in mind that adding molasses into your plant’s feeding cycle is most effective when you combine it with an organic fertilizer. This is because adding molasses will help make all of the fertilizer’s nutrients readily absorbable by your plants.
If you prefer a more DIY approach, you can use blackstrap molasses, particularly the unsulfured type. Once you have it, add it to your fertilizer at around 1/4 cup per gallon. Although you might have heard of some people mentioning that you should spray the solution directly on your plants, the problem is that the residue can end up attracting pests to your grow room.
You can get the most benefits of molasses in your nutrient solution if you use a soil-based system for your plants. However, it can work on hydroponic systems as well. Just make sure to check its pH before you give it since the sugars will make it acidic.
Once your plants are nearing the end of their growing cycle (particularly two to three weeks prior), stop giving them molasses and fertilizers. Instead, you should give them water to “flush” out all those unused nutrients.
If there are still leftover molasses, you can combine it with water at one cup per gallon and then pour it into your compost pile. This way, it can stimulate healthy microbes in there too.
How Often Should I Use Molasses on My Plants?
The reason you’re likely reading this article is to find out how often you should use molasses on your plants. It’s best to use a small amount on individual plants every two weeks or so. While you may be tempted to apply more often, it’s important not to do so. This is because it can even cause damage to your plants, such as causing an imbalance in the pH of the soil.
Should You Use Molasses for Tomatoes?
Molasses can be used for many reasons, including to help your tomatoes. As well as aiding the tomatoes in growth and energy, molasses have also been known to make your tomatoes taste even sweeter too! However, it all comes down to the gardener as to whether they think molasses are suited to their tomato plants.
If you add molasses to your tomatoes, it’s important to add the molasses to water first. This creates a diluted mixture so that you don’t overwhelm your tomato plants. Once diluted, you can either choose to spray or pour it onto your plants. Use once every two weeks in the mornings, for best results.
Should I Use Unsulfured Molasses for Plants?
Yes. It is important to use unsulfured molasses for your plants. If it’s not labeled whether the molasses are sulfur or unsulfured, they are likely unsulfured. This simply means that it’s concentrated and pure sugarcane. However, if they’re sulfured, it means that sulfur dioxide has been added. Unsulfured molasses are then added to your plant directly or can be added to compost tea or liquid fertilizers.
Should You Use Organic Molasses for Plants?
You may be curious as to whether you should use organic molasses for your plants. And it’s encouraged to use organic blackstrap molasses. We’ve already established that unsulfured molasses are the best choice, and when molasses are unsulfured, they can be classed as organic. This is because they’re free from any chemicals or additives.
Does Molasses Fatten Up Buds?
You may be curious as to whether molasses can fatten up your buds. The answer is: absolutely! Much like a human eating sugary foods to help put weight on – the same could be said for your plant buds. Another reason is that it contains potassium. Potassium is known to encourage fast and healthy growth. If you’re looking for fat buds, molasses is the miracle ingredient you’re looking for!
How to Apply Molasses
Applying molasses to your plants is super easy to do. Before you begin, you should dilute your molasses, rather than directly adding it to your plants. For every gallon of water, add around one cup of molasses. Mix well and then add to a sprayer or pour onto your soil. Another method you can use for veggies is to mix around 1/4 cup of unsulfured molasses, 1 cup of milk, and 4 cups of water. Mix well and add to a sprayer.
Whichever method you use, you should not apply it to your plants more than once every two weeks or so. Remember, using molasses too often to feed your plants can cause damage and cause a pH imbalance in the soil.
Conclusion: How Often Should I Use Molasses on My Plants?
Apart from giving plants a major boost, molasses is also capable of warding off pests, thereby making your garden pest-free. Based on experience, I was able to enjoy healthy plants by adding molasses to my fertilizer solution.
If you haven’t tried doing it yet, then now is the time to do so. I personally use the organic blackstrap molasses from Plantation, and so far, the results were impressive.
How about you? Have you tried applying molasses to your plants? If so, what were the results so far? Please leave a comment below. As always, thanks for reading!
FAQs
How do you apply molasses to plants?
ou use molasses as a mulch, spread it around your plants. The amount you put on the plants will depend on how much of a mulch you want. If you are using more than an inch or so, then you can spread it on top of the soil or mix it into the top inch or so of soil.
When should I start planting molasses?
Molasses is a great way to provide nutrition for your plants and is an excellent source of potassium, magnesium, zinc and iron. I started using molasses around five years ago and planted it right after I finished my first season of growing.
It worked well and I started using molasses for everything I grow. Now I’m on to my second season of growing and I’m thinking about planting molasses in my garden next year. Molasses contains a high amount of sugar so it’s best used in combination with other nutrients. I’ve found that it can be very effective when used as a foliar spray. It can also be used as a soil drench. I’ve found that molasses is very effective when used in combination with kelp, fish emulsion or blood meal.
What plants benefit from molasses?
Plants that benefit from molasses include both those that have a preference for the sugar in molasses and others that grow better with it. The best known and most commonly used of these is sugar beet. Molasses is also used to feed pigs, chickens, horses and cattle. It is also used as a fuel for heating and cooking and for making soap.
Molasses is made by pressing or boiling the juice of sugar cane. It can be made from a mixture of sugar cane and sugar beet, but sugar cane is preferred because it has a higher sugar content than sugar beet.
How should I use molasses on my plants?
Molasses is a great plant food, and it has been used by gardeners for centuries. It’s been used as a feed for animals, as well as being an additive in the home for making bread and baked goods. It is rich in nutrients that are readily available to your plants, including calcium, phosphorus, nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, sulfur and iron.
The only downside is that molasses is sticky and can be hard to get out of your soil after application. You can apply it directly to your plants or mix it into a water-soluble fertilizer such as Fish emulsion or Liquid Fertilizer. You can also add molasses to your compost or use it as a mulch.
Does molasses lower pH?
Yes, it can. Molasses is a byproduct of the sugar industry. It’s a thick, dark brown syrup that contains about 40% sucrose. Sugar cane has been around for a long time and has been refined to make many products including molasses. Molasses is acidic, but it doesn’t seem to be as acidic as vinegar or citric acid.
The oyster mushroom is a popular edible mushroom that is loved by many. Different substrates can be used for growing this oyster mushroom. But do you know which is the best substrate for oyster mushrooms? Let’s find out.
Oyster mushrooms are a group of gilled mushrooms, and this means they are classified as fungi. However, they are the type of fungi that is totally different from plants. Oyster mushrooms can be enjoyed in your various dishes. They are also known for their great health benefits.
So, this article covers what you need to know about growing an oyster mushroom, choosing the best substrate for oyster mushrooms, and so on. So, continue reading for some knowledge on this.
About Oyster Mushroom
The popular edible oyster mushroom (Pleurotus ostreatus) is a member of the Pleurotus genus. The oyster mushroom is a close relative to the king oyster mushroom, and the oyster mushroom is one of the most cultivated mushrooms around the world.
These mushrooms were first cultivated by the Germans during World War II. Then this mushroom is now been grown commercially around the world for food.
The shape of the oyster mushroom tends to be a funneled-shaped cap. It has a white to light brown, to a darker brown color. The flesh is white, then the gills appear whitish-yellow and run up a short off-center stem. The gills of oyster mushrooms tend to be recurrent, and the stalks are short and stout.
You can find oyster mushrooms in the forest in both temperate and tropical climates. These mushrooms are saprotrophic and are mostly found as fungi on hardwood trees. They can as well be found in unhealthy dying or dying trees or on decaying conifer woods.
Surprisingly, oyster mushrooms are carnivores that kill and digest nematodes just to obtain nitrogen from them.
Oyster mushrooms are edible and can be enjoyed in various dishes such as pasta and stir-fries. These mushrooms can be eaten raw or you can cook them. They also offer impressive health benefits.
What is the Best Substrate for Oyster Mushrooms?
Generally, when it comes to choosing the best substrate for mushrooms, straw is the most used for growing mushrooms. However, there are other varieties of substrate that you can go for. It all depends on what you have available.
Other substrates such as wheat straws, sawdust pellets, coffee grounds, cardboard, coco coir, as well as other agricultural waste by-products all make an ideal growing medium for oyster mushrooms. Just go for the substrate that is easier to access.
Wood pellets are also a great substrate to be used for your oyster mushroom. This is because they come sterilized. You just need to add water to get a good growing substrate for your mushrooms.
How Do You Make Oyster Mushroom Substrate?
A substrate is a medium for growing things. A substrate is used to grow mycelium that provides the root of the mushroom. Now, this is essential for the successful cultivation of mushrooms.
Preparing your substrate refers to the process of inoculation. Now inoculation is the point where you add the mushroom spawns to your growing medium.
So, when it comes to making or preparing your substrate for oyster mushrooms, you need to be very careful not to contaminate the substrate. Contamination can encourage mold to begin to grow on the substrate and mushrooms, which is what we don’t want.
Therefore, ensure you wash your hands properly and use a clean kitchen gloves. Then use mild bleach to wipe down all surfaces to eliminate any microorganisms or germs.
Once you’ve successfully prepared the growing substrate, you can then proceed to the next stage. You can learn further about how you can grow this mushroom below.
How to Grow Oyster Mushrooms
Growing oyster mushrooms can be an easy thing if you get the right knowledge about them. Although oyster mushrooms are usually seen growing abundantly in the wild, you can grow oyster mushrooms in your home.
Then you will need growing bags or containers (note that oyster mushrooms can be grown in buckets or even Ziploc bags)
However, you can obtain ready-made growing kits for your oyster mushrooms from some retailers.
The process of growing oysters can be broken down into 3 phases:
Oyster mushroom growth stages
Inoculation
The substrate material of your choice is mixed with the oyster mushroom spawn. The growing medium, which is the substrate, should be placed in the bag or container. Make sure there are holes or air filters in the bag for air exchange.
Incubation
Next, place the bags in a warm dark room. This is to incubate and begin the first phase of growth.
For the spawn to grow a full web of root-like threads of mycelium and colonize the growing medium; it only needs about 10 to 14 days to achieve this.
Fruiting
The mushroom will begin fruiting once the growing substrate has been totally colonized by the spawn. Then the bags or containers will need to be exposed to autumn-like conditions with fresh oxygen, low light levels, high humidity, and cooler temperatures.
Doing this will signal the mycelium to begin to produce mushrooms. The small pins will start to sprout. So, you will start to notice oyster mushroom pins coming out from the holes of the bag.
The last surviving response of the mycelium results in fruiting. In the wild, this fruiting is a result of the response to stress from the mycelium that happens due to changes in the environment.
Hence, imitation of this stress in the form of starvation will give rise to the survival response in your bag or container.
In just about 5 to 7 days, the tiny pins sprouting will grow and develop into a full-size mushroom.
Oyster Mushroom Cultivation Using Sawdust
If you’re wondering how to cultivate oyster mushrooms using sawdust, then look no further. For this recipe, you’ll need the following ingredients:
5 cups of sawdust (ensure you use hardwood pellets)
1.4 liters of water
1 cup of wheat bran
Now all you need to do is:
Once you’ve measured your ingredients, place your pellets and water into a container, and mix well. At this point, it should look more like the sawdust you’re familiar with. You can use either warm or cool water for this.
Once your pellets are sawdust and loose, add your cup of wheat bran. Distribute evenly in the sawdust and mix well.
Now add the sawdust mixture to grow bags. For every grow bag, you’ll need around 4 lbs and 4oz of the mixture.
Once you’ve added the mixture to your grow bag, you’ll need to add a filter to help fight against contamination. Add the filter and then fold the top of the bag over a few times.
Place the grow bag(s) into a pressure sterilizer. They can be placed on top of one another. Ensure the bags aren’t in direct contact with the base of the sterilizer. Add the water and place something heavy on top to secure the bags. Then leave for around two and a half hours.
Leave to cool for around 8 hours, or overnight. Add grain spawn to your bags and tie them with a zip tie. Shake the bag well.
Leave for around 10-21 days before you notice any results. However, check frequently to see if any problems or contamination are occurring. Once colonization has happened, your mushrooms are set to fruit! Simply cut off the top of your bag and get ready to grow!
Best Wood for Oyster Mushrooms
If you’re wondering what the best wood is for oyster mushrooms, then look no further. You can use either softwood or hardwood. However, I prefer to use softwood. Common favorites for mushrooms are soft maple, aspen, or birch sweet gum.
How to Sterilize Mushroom Substrate
You can sterilize the mushroom substrate with or without a pressure cooker. We’ll be taking a look at how to do both. Sterilization is important for some mushroom substrates as it’s the best way to avoid contamination. It’s important to note that simply boiling the substrate probably isn’t enough. Temperatures must be above 120C to remove all pollutants.
Using a pressure cooker, all you need to do is add the substrates to the cooker and cover them with water. Add the lid and allow the temperature to reach 120C to sterilize your substrate.
If you can not use a pressure cooker for this, you can try fractional sterilization. This is boiling jars until they reach 120C. You can use either an oven or an autoclave for this. However, this may cause your substrate to dry out and render it unusable, so you have to be extremely careful when using this method.
Conclusion: Best Substrate for Oyster Mushrooms
When it comes to selecting the best substrate for oyster mushrooms, it really comes down to which substrate you can easily obtain. Most types of substrates will work just fine. Therefore, you can simply go for what you have available.
Do you have any other ideas for the best substrate for oyster mushrooms? If so, please feel free to let us know in the comments below. And remember, sharing is caring!
‘Can you compost chicken bones’ is one of the frequently asked questions by organic farmers who do not want to waste any material.
Organic farming means using all the waste around the home to make compost manure. All waste is good but some cannot turn into compost manure.
Can You Compost Chicken Bones?
Yes, it is possible to compost chicken bones. Though it takes more work to compost them than the normal waste material, it is possible.
Chicken bones need more time to break down so do not compost them in haste. You may burn them first to quicken the process of breaking them down. So it can work together with the rest of the organic materials you decompose together.
How Do You Compost Chicken Bones?
Do not add chicken bones to the normal compost pile for your fruit and vegetable waste. The bones should go into food waste collection bins instead. This is because the bones get composted differently from the rest of the food matter.
Do not put the chicken bones in the green bin either. Dairy, meat, and bones should not go into the green bin.
The best compost to use for bones is hot compost. Hot composting means putting all the organic matter you need into a heap or a compost bin and then adding some heat to quicken the process. The heat acts as a catalyst which quickens the cooking process.
The best way to compost chicken bones is to chop them off into smaller pieces of about 4cm with secateurs. Carefully break the shells or bone joints into fragments with a hammer. Do not compost any large pieces of bones.
Chicken bones are generally good for plant growth. They supply the plants with organic phosphorous nitrogen nutrients.
Step-by-Step Process: Composting Chicken Bones Fast
Assemble all the chicken bones you have stored in your freezer and allow them to defrost. Lay them out under the sun to defrost properly.
Put them in a container that can be used to burn them, most probably an old cast iron grill.
Add a layer of wood shavings, papers, or cardboard to act as a fire starter. Add well-dried wood depending on the number of bones you are burning.
Place your chicken bones on top of the wood.
Start the fire and allow the bones to burn. The idea is to heat the bones until the fat within them melts and starts to drip out. Fat makes the bones burn and feed the fire.
Allow the bones to burn till they look charred. Let them cool for a while and crush them into smaller chunks with your hands or use a hammer to do so.
You can then dispose of the bones in the compost bin where they’ll decompose.
Can You Compost Meat and Bones?
While you now know that you can compost chicken bones, you may be wondering about other types of bones and meat. The truth is, most fish meat, bones, and seafood can work as compost. But it’s worth noting that some will compost much faster than others. You also should chop your bones and meat into manageable pieces; doing this will increase how quickly it decomposes. Let’s take a closer look at what meat and bones you can compost, and how to do so.
For bones such as chicken, birds, and fish, you should ensure they’re chopped into manageable pieces. It will decay slowly in hot bin compost; but unfortunately, we do not recommend adding it to cold compost.
For shells such as lobster, crab, and cockle, you should crush or break the shells into smaller pieces. It will decay slowly in hot bin compost; but unfortunately, we do not recommend adding it to cold compost.
For cooked meat, that must be it’s in small pieces and no big bones remain. It will decay fast in hot bin compost; but unfortunately, we do not recommend adding it to cold compost.
Can You Compost Cooked Meat?
As mentioned above, you absolutely can compost cooked meat! The truth it, if you can eat it, you can usually compost it! However, most people prefer not to use cooked meat as compost as the trouble with this is that it can cause unwanted attention from wildlife. If you do choose to do this, remove any big bones and chop them into manageable pieces.
How to Dispose of Chicken Bones
You may be wondering what the best way of composting chicken bones is and there are a few ways you can do this. Let’s take a closer look.
The best way is in green waste. Unfortunately, not every city has a green waste program, so this may not be possible for you to do. If it is, we would highly recommend this option as you won’t be contributing to the landfill. As well as this, your city will dispose of the waste accordingly.
Another option is to add to your compost. However, as mentioned above, this is a slow decay rate; even in a hot bin compost. Just be prepared to have your chicken bones composting for a very long time!
If you don’t have either of these options available to you, simply throw them in your usual trash or garbage. Just be sure it’s sealed properly in the bag as they can be dangerous for wildlife.
How Long Does it Take For Chicken Bones to Compost?
You may be wondering how long it takes for your chicken bones to compost. Well, the truth is, it all depends on a variety of factors. It could be months or years; it just comes down to which process you’re following. If you simply bury them as they are, you can expect them to take years to decompose. However, if you add them to hot compost, this will be significantly quicker.
Are Chicken Bones Good For the Soil?
You may be curious as to whether chicken bones are even a good choice for your soil – and the answer is, absolutely! While it can be a lengthy method, it’s certainly one that’s worth the effort. And always remember, smaller chunks are better, and will decompose faster.
Chicken Bones in Compost: Conclusion
By now your question ‘can you compost chicken bones’ are answered in-depth. Why not try the procedure and tell us how it worked for you? If you also try another method to decompose the bones, let us know so we can try it out too.
FAQs
Can you compost a chicken carcass?
Yes, you can compost a chicken carcass. The problem is that the chicken will be eaten before it decomposes and the carcass becomes food for the worms. To prevent this, you need to freeze the chicken carcass immediately after removing it from the bird. This will slow down the decomposition process and make the chicken more available for the worms to eat.
How long does it take to compost chicken bones?
Chicken bones take about 1 month to break down completely. To compost them, place the bones in a bucket with water and a handful of sand or other filler material. Let them sit for two weeks, then move them to a larger container (or a plastic tub).
Check them weekly and stir the compost regularly.
Are chicken bones good fertilizer?
Chicken manure is the most concentrated source of nitrogen and phosphorous in the compost pile.
Chicken manure is also a good source of potassium, magnesium and calcium. Chicken manure can be applied to your garden as an amendment at any time during the growing season. If you have a deep layer of manure on top of the soil, you can apply it as a top dressing or under mulch.
Chicken manure should be added at the rate of 1-2 inches per week. You can add chicken manure to your garden during the growing season. The chicken manure will make your soil better for vegetables.
Are chicken bones good for gardens?
Chicken bones are the best fertilizer for plants because they are rich in nitrogen, phosphorus, calcium and iron. You can use chicken bones as a fertilizer by adding them directly to the soil or using them in compost. If you add them to the soil they will decompose and release the nutrients into the soil. You can use chicken bones as a fertilizer by adding them directly to the soil or using them in compost. If you add them to the soil they will decompose and release the nutrients into the soil. If you use them in compost, they break down and give the compost more nutrients and make it easier to spread on the garden.
Are animal bones good for soil?
Animal manure is a great source of fertilizer. It’s produced by animals that eat plants.
Animals have special digestive systems that convert plant matter into nutrients that can be used by other living things. Soil that has been fertilized with animal manure is generally more fertile than soil that hasn’t been fertilized. The main difference between animal manure and other kinds of fertilizer is that animal manure has a higher nitrogen content. Nitrogen is one of the most important nutrients for plants. If you want to plant grass or flowers, you need to use a lot of nitrogen. So if you have a field that has been fertilized with animal manure, it will be more fertile than a field that hasn’t been fertilized. You can also add nitrogen to your soil by using synthetic nitrogen fertilizers. But it’s expensive, and you can only add a limited amount to your soil at a time.
You may be wondering: how long does it take cow manure to compost? For centuries, new farming techniques have been developed to improve the lives of farmers and food producers as well as to increase food production. These new farming methodologies have been developed through the years, studied, researched, and applied in the farmlands in various corners of the world.
It is not only in farmlands that certain methods are applicable but also in gardening. One of the basic techniques developed in agriculture and horticulture is utilizing animal manure as a fertilizer.
Animal manures have been used in agriculture as a fertilizer to enrich the soil. Dungs from different livestock animals and poultry such as chickens and pigs are utilized. Cow manures have also been popularly used as a fertilizer for soil enrichment for crops and other various seedlings to grow.
However, while cow manure is deemed to be an outstanding fertilizer, fresh cow excrement contains too much salt in it and a high amount of ammonia which can cause plants to burn. Not to mention that this also contains an unpleasant odor.
To get the best out of cow manure without those disagreeable characteristics, it is suggested to do composting on the excrement.
What is Composting?
Composting is the process of putting together biological and organic remnants. Examples of these biodegradable residues include food wastes and scraps, straws, leaf clippings, and of course, animal excrement. These leftovers are gathered; stacked or piled, and blended and slightly wetted to go through a thermophilic decomposition.
Composting products are generally used both in agriculture as a fertilizer and in horticulture; they are used as a viable alternative for peat. It is also noted that compost is put on to enhance the composition of soil and as a microbial supplement to elevate enzymatic activities.
Benefits of Compost
Composting is used to improve soil fertility; the soil‘s capability to store and hold water and moisture; the organic characteristics of the soil; and lastly, its volume and density. Aside from these, compositing has lessened the odor produced in the soil and the number of fly eggs because of the thermophilic reaction taking place during microbial putrefaction.
Unbeknown to many, composting has also helped in eliminating weed seeds and pathogens. Generally, weed seeds happen to pass inside livestock and can multiply in animal manure such as cows. During composting, some weed seeds are eliminated on the 21st day while others take about 42 days to be dispatched.
Thus, through composting, the volume of herbicides or tillage used for weed control has been reduced. Aside from getting rid of weed seeds, composting has also helped in destroying infectious agents such as Escherichia coli in only 3 days if the appropriate heat has been reached (about 131 degrees Fahrenheit).
Composting has also been shown to decrease the density and volume of animal excrement by 50 to 65 percent.
Longevity in Making Compost from Cow Manure
How long does it take cow manure to compost? Normally, the process takes 3 months or less for cow manure to compost. The process depends on several factors; namely, the dimension of the pile utilized for compost, the right combination of carbon and nitrogen content in the compost, and water management. Also, the amount of oxygen being incorporated matters– and of course, the temperature of the compost.
Making a Compost
Choosing the site
Before making compost, you need to look for the appropriate site. Essentially, the area for the compost must have good drainage into the containment pond, and leached water must not reach any water reservoir. Of course, the site must not be placed beside surficial waters. The composition of the soil must be concrete or loaded.
Pile dimension
After selecting a site, you need to gather the manure into a windrow. The dimension of the pile is normally between 10 and 12 feet wide and the height must be 4 to 6 feet. Because of these, in a day or two, the temperature of the pile will reach above 120 degrees Fahrenheit. It must be noted that going for something smaller than the dimension required will cause the pile to not get the exact required heat for a thermophilic reaction while a larger one will cause the pile to acquire less amount of air or oxygen.
Carbon to nitrogen ratio
As soon as the dimensions of the pile have been set, the combination of carbon to nitrogen ratio must be determined. The ratio of carbon to nitrogen must be set to 20:1; loosely, for 20 parts of carbon, there must be one part of nitrogen. This is because approximately half of the metabolized carbon is converted to carbon dioxide. One must also take note that too much nitrogen will cause it to loosen and may cause the pile to smell like vaporous ammonia whereas excess carbon can inactivate nitrogen and decelerate the process of composting.
Water management
Water is another important element in the process of making compost. About 40 to 65 percent of the pore space in the compost requires water, and the compost must have an ample amount of moisture.
Oxygen
A chemical reaction needs to occur; therefore, microorganisms need oxygen to create such a reaction to convert manure to compost. Suitable aerobic conditions must be met. There are different ways to introduce and replenish oxygen in the compost. One, it can be done by turning the compost every 3 days. Second, using a pitchfork, the compost must poke around. Third, it involves the use of Compose Aerator which makes the job easier since air will be established into the pile.
The last fundamental factor that needs to be monitored in the compost is the temperature. A probe-type thermometer can be utilized to observe the temperature of the compost and to detect when to turn the pile. Turning can help the pile if the temperature falls below 110 degrees Fahrenheit. It has been suggested that the temperature of the pile must not be greater than 131 degrees Fahrenheit for 15 days, and turning must be done at least five times.
On the other hand, temperatures must not reach above 160 degrees Fahrenheit which can cause important microorganisms to be eliminated, thus causing a drop in the activity of microbes and decelerating the process.
How Long Does it Take for Cow Manure to Compost?
There is no straight answer to this question, unfortunately. It all depends on a range of factors: such as the temperature, the size of the pile, and the materials you’re composting. However, typically it’ll take around six months. This is from making your cow manure compost and leaving it until it’s ready to stabilize, and then curing it for at least a few months. Doing it this way will ensure the best for your gardens and soil.
Is Cow Manure Good for Gardens?
When it comes to cow manure, you may be wondering if it’s a good fertilizer for your garden. And the answer is – absolutely! It’s an all-purpose fertilizer that’s great for anything you may need fertilizer for. The main draw of cow manure is that it’s bursting with nutrients, but is low in nitrogen. This is ideal if you’re worried about burning your plants. As well as this, it’s low in weed seeds and ideal for improving the structure of your soil.
If you’re wondering how to add compost to your garden, the easiest way is simply to add the cow manure to the area in your garden you need it for.
How to Compost Cow Manure
Composting cow manure doesn’t have to be difficult. You should first start by making two compost bins. You can do this by using pallets. The first is for composting and the second is for curing. Curing can take a few months, but it’s certainly worth the additional effort. The pallet bins should be at least 4 feet high and around 4 feet wide.
Once you have your bins prepared, fill one with cow manure, along with straw, hay, and leaves. The pile should be relatively moist, add a small amount of water so that when squeezed, a trickle of water comes out. But be sure not to add too much. If it’s too wet, add a small amount of organic matter. Using a shovel or pitchfork, turn the compost several times throughout the month; depending on the temperature.
Once cool, add to your curing bin and leave for anywhere between three and six months; the longer the better. Your manure is now ready to use. Just simply add the manure to wherever you need it; no deeper than half an inch deep. This will ensure your soil will get the most from your cow manure compost.
Can You Use Cow Manure for Grass?
As we mentioned, cow manure is an all-purpose fertilizer, so you can also use it for grass too if you’d like. In saying that, you will need large volumes of cow manure which you may not have available to you. If you do or have a smaller patch of grass, simply use cow manure as compost for your grass and watch the benefits unfold before your eyes!
Conclusion: How Long Does it Take Cow Manure to Compost
I hope this post has helped to answer the question: how long does it take cow manure to compost? Overall, composting has benefits that can help the soil and the environment as well. This method is practical in a way that it can help eliminate waste by solving it practically and environmentally. Though the process may take a few weeks to complete, a dark, crumbly, and earthy smell of compost as a final product is not bad after all.
Do you have any tips and tricks when it comes to composting cow manure? If so, please feel free to let us know in the comments below. And remember, sharing is caring!
FAQs
What are some ways to compost cow manure?
The most common method is to spread it on your garden. But this method has several drawbacks, not the least of which is that the manure is mixed with urine and excrement from your animals, and therefore it may carry diseases that can harm your plants. Another popular method is to mix it with a composting bin. This method is effective, but it requires constant vigilance, and if you are away for any length of time, your compost could go bad and attract pests.
You can try to find a friend who has a compost bin or a large quantity of manure and ask him or her if you can dump your scraps in there.
The composting process will turn your manure into a nutrient-rich fertilizer.
If you live in a community that has a composting program, you may be able to dump your scraps there.
What are good steps for composting cow manure?
Cow manure can be composted by adding it to a bin of other materials, including sawdust, shredded paper and straw. This is the preferred method for most composters, as it produces an excellent product with no odor. To compost cow manure, follow these steps:
1. Collect cow manure from the barn, or find a local farmer who has cows that have just given birth.
2. Add the manure to a bin of other materials, such as shredded paper, straw and wood shavings.
3. Turn the mixture once a week.
4. When the pile is at least 6 inches deep, add sand to help keep the pile aerated.
5. Cover the pile with a tarp or plastic to keep it from drying out.
6. Check the pile every few days to make sure it is not burning.
7. After about one month, the compost should be ready.
8. You can spread it on your garden in a fall application. For More Information There are many different methods for composting cow manure, but if you have access to a large quantity of manure, you can apply it to your garden in a fall application.
Can you apply as fertilizer?
If you have access to a cow or horse, you can try spreading it on your lawn as fertilizer. It’s not very effective, however, because cows and horses don’t actually eat grass; they eat green plants. You would need to spread the manure on the grass and then mow it into the soil.
If you start to notice cal-mag deficiency in flowers, you’ll need to act fast to save your plant’s bloom. During flowering, plants need more magnesium and calcium because of bud production. This is a key productive stage in a plant’s life that requires lots of nutrients to sustain the bloom stage. Calcium and Magnesium are two of the most important secondary nutrients. They are a little less important than the primary nutrients – N, P, K).
The Impact of Cal-Mag on Plants
These two minerals, though secondary, are vital to the biological processes in a plant. Let’s see what each mineral does.
Calcium Benefits to Plants
Magnesium Benefits to Plants
Gives the cell wall more rigidity
Assists in enzyme production
Allows plants to have a strong structure and shape
Helps plants make chlorophyll
Makes cell walls healthy
Helps plants grow into full maturity
Helps the healthy cell wall to regulate the proper transfer of other nutrients
Assists in the absorption and transport of essential nutrients like phosphorous and iron.
It is vital for cell division and formation in plants
Activates specific enzymes in plants
Helps transport the organic molecules in plants
Highly essential for the development of healthy fruit structure
Signs of Cal-Mag Deficiency in Flowers
It is not easy to detect cal mag deficiency in the early stages of a plant. Thus, it is important to act as soon as you detect the first sign. First signs appear in the lower leaves of the plant. The tips of the leaves curl upwards and turn brown. The brown spots increase in size and number starting from the lower to the top part of the plant. The youngest leaves on the top part of the plant also get brown spots with discoloration of veins.
Water is one of the essential requirements for all plants. Did you know water is one of the supplements for these secondary nutrients – calcium, and magnesium? Natural water contains abundant calcium and magnesium as dissolved minerals. Plants should be able to get these two nutrients in plenty from the soil/water itself. Tap water also contains these two secondary minerals. You don’t have to worry about using natural water only. Soft water has a low pH with minimal minerals in it.
If you live in an area with low pH, you will have to look for cal-mag supplements for your plants. Hard water contains high concentrations of calcium and magnesium. Using this water means you don’t need to add any Calcium or Magnesium supplements. Treated water requires Cal and Mag supplements addition. Because the distillation process removes the good minerals from the water.
How Much Calcium and Magnesium Should You Use?
You can make a homemade cal-mag supplement using Epsom salts (Magnesium sulfate) and Calcium nitrate. Mix 2 parts calcium to 1 part magnesium. You will need 6g Calcium Nitrate and 4.5g Epsom salts per gallon of water. In specific situations, you might need to adjust the nutrient levels to fit your type of deficiency. If you buy a pre-mixed cal-mag supplement, you will get the right recommended mixture. Stick to those levels for the best results. Remember, excess use of these supplements can be bad for your plants!
When to Stop Cal-Mag in Flowering?
While adding cal-mag to your plants is important, it’s also just as important not to add too much cal-mag. Cal mag usually comes pre-mixed in either a supplement or liquid. When purchasing it like this, it will usually come with instructions on how to apply and how much you should be using. Even if you feel as though your plants are struggling, do not use more than the specified amount and look for potential other issues instead.
The best time to start using cal-mag is when your plants are small. It should be done gradually, in stages, building up the amount as your plant grows. Usually, it’s best to stop as the plant starts to flower, but you don’t have to do this. When it begins to flower after 4-6 weeks, you can simply lower the dosage you’re giving your plants. However, we would recommend sticking to the instructions provided on your supplements.
Can I Use Magnesium Tablets for Plants?
Unfortunately, it’s not recommended to use magnesium tables for plants. When it comes to adding magnesium, it’s best to use a supplement that has been designed specifically for gardening. This will ensure your plants receive the correct amount required to thrive.
Can You Use CalMag Foliar Spray During Flowering?
While CalMag foliar spray is great at many points throughout the cycle of your plant growth, it is not recommended when flowering. Unfortunately, if you use too much when flowering, this can lead to too much moisture in your plants. This can then lead to mold and rot.
Will Cal Mag Tighten Buds?
No. If growing tight flowers, if you use too much cal mag, it can lead to too much moisture and eventually cause mold. If you’re looking to tighten your buds, it’s best to use a bud hardener. Bud hardener is simply a product to add to your flowers when they’re almost finished growing to tighten them. It’s typically used nearer the end of the growth cycle to help them put on weight.
How Do I Know If My Plants Are Lacking Cal-Mag?
You may be wondering how best to tell if your plants are lacking in cal mag. If so, you may want to check for one of the following signs.
color change. If you become aware that your plants are turning yellow or brown at the tips, this likely means that your plant isn’t receiving enough calcium. However, it’s best to do a soil test to confirm this before you take action.
slow growth. If you’ve noticed that your plant is growing slower than it should, it may be because it doesn’t have enough calcium or magnesium.
floppy stems. Your stems may become limp and lifeless if your plant is deficient in magnesium or calcium.
curly leaves. If you notice that your leaves are curling inwards, it’s likely because they’re not receiving enough calcium.
rotting. If you notice that your flowers are rotting or becoming smelly, it likely means that your plant is experiencing a lack of calcium.
Conclusion: Cal Mag Deficiency in Flowers
In most cases, these two supplements can be easily available in water and soil. But in exceptional cases, supplements are required. Cal mag supplements are available to buy. But you need to pay attention to the labels. Get something that consists of cal and mag only. Be sure to get a supplement that does not contain other nutrients. Supplements that contain nitrogen and other nutrients bring a risk of over-feeding. This is dangerous to your plants!
Do you have any tips or tricks for helping cal mag deficiency in flowers? If so, please feel free to let us know in the comments below. And remember, sharing is caring!
FAQs
How do you fix Cal-Mag deficiency in flowers?
Calcium is important for the development of new flower buds. Magnesium is also needed to make a healthy flower. If you don’t correct it, you will get sickly flowers.
Calcium is one of the most important minerals for plant growth. Calcium helps the plant to grow and bloom. Calcium deficiency will affect the formation of cell walls and cause the flowers to be weak and deformed and cause the plant to grow slowly and may even die. The easiest way to correct Calcium deficiency is to use a Calcium rich fertilizer. You can find Calcium enriched fertilizers at any local nursery or garden center.
Magnesium is an important element for the development of new flower buds. Magnesium deficiency will cause the blooms to have a pale, sickly appearance. Magnesium deficiency will also cause the plant to grow slowly and may even die. The easiest way to correct Magnesium deficiency is to use a Magnesium enriched fertilizer. This will help the plant to get the Magnesium it needs. You can find Magnesium enriched fertilizers at any local nursery or garden center.
How do you add Cal-Mag to plants?
Cal-Mag is a liquid that will raise the pH of your soil. To apply Cal-Mag to your plants, mist them thoroughly with water. Apply 1/4 teaspoon of Cal-Mag per gallon of water. Mist again after 24 hours. Repeat this process once a week for a month. Cal-Mag is a combination of calcium and magnesium. It can be used on any type of plant except some species of mint. Cal-Mag is particularly useful in preventing stress and disease and in improving the health of plants. The amount of Cal-Mag used should not be more than 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water. If you use too much, it will cause burns or discoloration.
Can I mix Cal-Mag with nutrients?
You can add nutrients (Vitamin D, Iron, etc.) to a pre-made calcium-magnesium supplement.
Can you use too much Cal-Mag?
Yes, it’s possible to over apply. I don’t know the exact amount that’s bad but it’s definitely possible. It won’t hurt plants as long as they’re not in a nutrient-poor soil or a high pH soil. The more Cal-Mag you use the more of the other nutrients will be left in the soil. If you use Cal-Mag and then fertilizer, it’s recommended to add fertilizer at least 24 hours after applying Cal-Mag.
What are the symptoms of calcium deficiency in plants?
Calcium is an essential macronutrient for plant growth and development. It is involved in a number of physiological processes including cell division, wall construction, seed germination and fruit ripening. Plants can also acquire calcium from the soil, but most of it is absorbed by the root system. Calcium is stored in the leaves and stems as chlorophyll helps to bind calcium to photosynthetic pigments.
The symptoms of calcium deficiency vary depending on the species of plant. Some plants will show no visible symptoms of calcium deficiency while others may display stunted growth and reduced biomass. In some plants, the leaves may appear yellow or have a bronze coloration. This is due to the loss of chlorophyll which binds calcium to photosynthetic pigments. The roots may also appear yellow. In other plants, the leaves may appear withered, curling at the edges. In some cases, calcium deficiency may cause the plant to produce abnormal growths, such as leaf or flower buds, or the formation of leafy shoots.
Today, we’re going to be looking at an organic source of silica for plants and the best sources. Although not a major plant nutrient, silica is still considered to be important in any grow room. One of the most abundant components in the earth’s crust, silicon is a major contributor to the plant kingdom.
It comprises about 55-70% of soil mass and just happens that some plants can gather high levels of silica in their tissue. These plants have high levels of silica compared to minerals such as magnesium, calcium, and phosphorus.
In the past, agronomists ignored the use of silicon as fertilizer but lately, due to its benefits to the growth of a plant and its ability to improve plants’ resistance to disease, it is becoming more popular with many plant growers who apply silica to their gardens for a wide range of plants.
The use of silica is common among hydroponic farmers who add it directly to the reservoir away from other nutrients since the mineral becomes sticky when added together with other concentrated salts.
In this article, I will be sharing with you a little detail about silica for plants, including plant sources and the benefits they add when they are included in fertilizer in the garden.
What is Silica?
Silica is what is commonly used to refer to the compound silicon dioxide. It is a major component of plant tissue and is formed when oxygen and silicon come in contact. A lot of plant growers believe that silicon doesn’t have any benefits when added to their garden since it isn’t part of the essential nutrients required for plant growth. But this certainly isn’t true.
Silicon health benefits
Silicon is needed as part of a balanced diet for every healthy individual. It plays a major contribution to bone and teeth development and as such should be included in our diet. The ligaments, joints, tendons, and tissues in the body require silica for strong and healthy development. The mineral also helps to balance the release of insulin by the pancreas. The skin, hair, and nails are not left out as they require essential minerals to be able to develop properly, and apart from calcium, silicon also helps out in that department.
Now that I have mentioned some of the health benefits of silica, you should begin to see the reason why most plant growers add silica to their gardens to improve their plant yield. The next question you will be asking will be where these growers find the silica they add to their garden.
For you to consider a quality silicon source, it needs to contain high levels of soluble silica, has physical properties that are safe for machine applications, readily available, and shouldn’t be expensive to purchase or apply to plants. Although silicon is the second most available element in the earth’s crust, it is usually in combination with other elements. The best sources of silica for plants are the ones that are highly soluble but since most sources are insoluble, you may have to do a bit of work and research in finding a good source of plant silica for your garden.
Some of the available sources of silica for plant growers include:
Slag
A by-product from the industrial processing of iron and other alloys, slag is used as a source of plant silica due to its high solubility and concentration. It is usually a combination of silicon dioxide and metal oxides, but it can also contain metal sulfides and other metals depending on the refining process. When making use of slag as a source of silicon for your rice or sugar cane farm you should ensure that it has a high silicon dioxide content so as not to expose your plant to other toxic metals that are not beneficial to its yield.
Calcium silicates
This is by far the most important source of silicon for plants and is best for soil application. Wallosonite (calcium metasilicate) is the most effective source in places where the soil is low in soluble silicon concentration. Another by-product of slag, gotten from the production of phosphorus in an electric furnace can be applied to soils with low silica contents in the cultivation of watermelon, sugarcane, rice, and other crops.
Sodium silicate
Another good source of silicon for plants, sodium silicate often referred to as water glass has many industrial applications including textiles, ceramics, cement, silica gel, and adhesives. It is produced by the treatment of quartz sand, caustic soda, and water in a hot steam reactor.
Thermo-phosphate fertilizers
A common fertilizer used in Brazil, thermo-phosphate is also a good source of plant silica. Although it might be difficult to come by and expensive to purchase, it is highly effective in increasing the plant yield in gardens where there isn’t much silicon content in the soil.
Benefits of Silica in Plant
The addition of silicon to plant soil either in hydroponics or traditional gardening has a lot of numerous benefits and they include the:
Helps to Strengthen Plant Cell Walls
Silica helps to provide the plant with a stronger cell wall, and this makes it possible for the plant to develop strong stems and branches that are capable of supporting fruit production when the plant reaches maturity.
Strengthen Plant Immune System
Unlike animals, plants lack an immune system that can help them to resist the effect of environmental factors on plant growth. Adding silica to plants helps them to withstand the effect of climate and drought throughout the plant’s life.
Improves Plant Metabolic Function
The addition of soluble silica to plants provides them with a higher chlorophyll concentration where it is needed. This helps to reduce wilting in the leaves and improves leaf production. Also, there is a noticeable improvement in the health of the foliage when silica is added to plant soil.
Increased Resistance to Pests and Pathogens
Feeding your plant with soluble silica helps to improve its resistance to pests and pathogens. It helps to fortify areas around the cell wall of the leaves making it difficult for diseases to get into the plant. It also makes it harder for bugs to bite and suck the plant thereby reducing plant damage.
Natural Silica for Plants
The truth is there are many natural sources of silica to help your plants thrive. While silica isn’t listed as an essential nutrient for your plants, I’ve found that it helps your plants to thrive in a way that they don’t without it. One of my personal favorites is diatomaceous earth. You may know it better as diatomite.
While it does contain other parts, it is predominantly made of silica; which is why it’s perfect for your plants – and all-natural! Diatomaceous earth is essentially algae. It helps your plants to thrive as it’s absorbed into your plant and helps to strengthen both the root system and structure.
As well as this, it also can provide other positive effects on your garden environment. For example, it’s great at retaining moisture, so works well against any drought issues your plants may be having. As well as this, it can even work as a pH buffer.
Best Organic Silica for Plants
You may be wondering how to make silica for plants and the best organic silica source for plants. Some other options we’ve not yet looked at are potassium silicate and mono-silicic acid. Let’s take a closer look.
Potassium silicate
This is often the easiest type of silica you can get your hands on; meaning that it’s easily accessible. Unfortunately, it’s not entirely bioavailable, which is what may veer you away from choosing this type of silica. This means that if you add a certain amount to your plants, you can never be sure how much of the silica they have received. Over time, it may also not be as effective, which is another downside to this type of silica. However, in terms of price and ease of usage, we would highly recommend it. It’s quite basic, which is great for gardening beginners
Mono silicic acid
You may know it better as orthosilicic acid. This is my favorite choice of organic silica because however much you feed to your plants, you can be sure that they’ll be receiving every last amount. It will offer a flow of silica to your plants, which they can use to flourish and grow. This time of silica is versatile and doesn’t degrade as quickly as other types of silica.
Best Silica for Variegated Plants
When it comes to silica for variegated plants, the truth is, you can use whichever silica you’d like. You simply have to find out what works best for your plants and garden; as this will be different for everyone. However, I’ve found that well-rounded silica is Alchemist Stout MSA. While the price tag of this supplement may deter you, you don’t need to use much of this supplement at all. For this reason, it’s likely to last longer than other silica supplements you may use.
All of the supplements will feed into your plant and this silica source is as pure as they come. Whether you’re a new gardener or an expert, I would highly recommend this silica.
How to Add Silica to Your Plants
Depending on the product you are using, you need to follow the dosage prescribed. During the early stages of plant development, it is advisable to feed them soluble silica at a slow rate and then up the application as plants increase in size and maturity.
You can apply silica to your plant either as a foliar spray or to the roots; but for maximum absorption, you should apply minerals with the aid of a foliar spray. Remember to dilute the silica and add the solution to the reservoir to avoid contamination with other elements.
When purchasing soluble silica for your farm, you should buy from trusted brands that sell grower feeds and tools so that you can be certain of the quality of the mineral your plant is receiving.
If you want to know more about silica, watch this video.
If you have any questions about using silica for your farm or garden, let us know in the comment section and we will be glad to be of assistance. We encourage you to share this article if you find it helpful. Do you have any tips or tricks for using an organic source of silica for plants in your garden? If so, please feel free to let us know in the comments below.
FAQs
Why is silica good for the soil?
Silica is used to enrich the soil and protect it from water loss. A) help plants grow B) prevent plant disease C) hold moisture in soil D) allow moisture to evaporate from soil E) store nutrients
A silica particle is a mineral composed of silicon, oxygen, and other elements. It is used in many products that we use everyday. A) sand B) glass C) soap D) mortar E) clay
Silica is needed for healthy roots and leaves, but can be found in soil or rocks. You may also find it in your tap water. Silt is a finely divided sediment consisting chiefly of clay particles. It is found in streams, rivers and lakes.
If you’re looking for a silica supplement for your soil, then look for a product that has silica as its primary ingredient. There are many that do. They are often marketed as “plant food,” but I wouldn’t recommend using them. Instead, just add a small amount to your soil and let it work its magic.
What is a good source of silica for plants?
I’ve heard a lot of different sources of silica: A) Silica is found in the soil naturally, but not in large amounts.
B) Silica is found in sand, which is usually sold for landscaping purposes. C) Silica can be purchased in bags and comes in various sizes and shapes. D) Silica can also be purchased in liquid form and sprayed on plants.
How much do you need for a large tree?
This depends on what kind of tree you have and how big it is. I use about 1 tablespoon per gallon of water, and that should be enough for most trees.
What’s a good brand of silica that anyone can use?
I use the mineral brand “Silica” from Amazon. It’s just a powder, so it’s easy to measure out. You could try other brands, but I’ve had great results with this one. I’ve used it in my own garden and in others’ gardens, and it seems to work well.
How is silica added to the soil?
This is a good question and one that I have also asked myself. Silica is added to soils by chemical companies as a fertilizer. It is added to soil as an inert filler, or it may be used in the form of an inert dust. Inert means that it does not affect the chemistry of the soil. It is inert because it is not chemically active in the soil.
How does silica form on earth?
Silica, like all minerals, is part of the earth’s crust and thus it’s always there. The mineral silica SiO2 is present in the soil as a result of weathering and erosion processes. The most important sources of silica for plants are the soils that were formed by sedimentary rocks, such as shale or sandstone.
Using the best fertilizer for green beans when growing the plant will no doubt greatly improve the yield.
The importance of fertilizers in the place of plant growth cannot be emphasized enough. These supplemental nutrients help plant yield. This is why we would be looking into some fertilizers needed by your green bean to thrive.
Green beans are one loved vegetable amongst other plants. They are very nutritious and easy to grow if you gain the right knowledge about them.
In this post, we will be looking at some of the best fertilizers for green beans. So, continue reading to gain some knowledge about this.
Brief About Green Beans Vegetable
Before we delve into fertilizers for green beans, let’s discuss some things that you should know about green beans and the nutrient requirement of green beans.
Green beans which are also known as string beans or snap beans are green vegetables with huge nutritional benefits. There are over 130 varieties of green beans in the world presently.
Green beans are of two varieties namely bush bean and pole bean. This variety majorly distinguishes them based on their growing styles.
Bush beans are inclined to grow compactly and usually don’t require support. They are therefore perfect to be grown in raised beds as well as in a garden with little space. Their growth height is usually around 12 to 24 inches tall.
Pole beans on the other hand are inclined to grow in a vining manner and will usually require support such as a trellis or cage. The growing height of pole beans can be as tall as 6 feet or more.
Green beans are also loaded with great nutrients. It has a high amount of Chlorophyll, which can greatly help reduce the chances of having cancer. For women of childbearing age, green beans are a great method of improving fertility.
Apart from the above, green beans have some other wonderful health benefits such as reducing the risk of obesity, diabetes, heart disease, and mortality generally. Green beans contain calories, fat, carbohydrate, sugar, protein, calcium, iron, etc.
Fertilizer for Beans
Generally, bean plants are not so demanding when it comes to fertilization requirements. This is because they are legumes and they basically fix nutrients such as nitrogen. Therefore, they are capable of supplying some of their nitrogen usually. So, all you need may just be a 3 to 4 inches layer of work in compost.
However, if you have less fertile soil or they lack just one crucial nutrient, your green bean plant may not flourish well.
Do a soil test to determine the status so you can know if there are any deficiencies in essential nutrients.
Homemade fertilization of green beans can be derived using organic materials such as fish emulsion, compost tea, as well as other organic fertilizers.
Bean Fertilizer
Here are some major fertilizers that tend to increase the growth rate of beans:
Phosphorous – Best fertilizer for green beans
Phosphorus is one essential nutrient bean plants need to majorly develop a good root system. But as we have mentioned earlier, beans are not heavily nutrient-requiring. Therefore, you can simply use a 3 inches layer of compost to enhance the growth of your green bean plant.
But in the case where your garden soil test result shows that phosphorous is insufficient or lacking, you can use a 5-10-10 fertilizer. You can optionally make use of 1 pound of bone meal per 100 square feet to achieve moderate nutrient feeding.
Potassium
Potassium is another nutrient that can help green beans to grow efficiently. It is like a supporting nutrient in the growth of beans.
Although potassium doesn’t really offer a major effect on the stem or growth like nitrogen and phosphorus would, potassium will still help in keeping beans healthy. This will therefore encourage or support the growth of the green beans.
A moderate supply or feeding of compost is fine to supply the needed potassium for green beans.
However, if the soil tests in your garden show very low or infertile potassium, you should make use of 5-10-10 fertilizers. Alternatively, you can make use of 10 pounds of ground granite or 10 pounds of greensand per square foot.
Is nitrogen needed in beans?
The very first fertilizers any gardener would think of when it comes to the growth of the plant is nitrogen fertilizers. However, when it comes to legumes such as beans, these plants are nitrogen fixers.
Hence, they are capable of fixing nitrogen into the soil and this nitrogen is gotten from the air.
Therefore, avoid supplying your green beans with fertilizer rich in nitrogen because this can hurt your plant. Excess nitrogen can result in excess stem and leaf growth and offer you little or small beans.
Growing Green Beans
Green beans are very easy to grow. They are warm-loving crops that should be planted when the danger of frost has elapsed in your zone.
The ideal growing temperatures for green beans range from 65 degrees Fahrenheit to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. For that successful seed germination, the temperature of your soil should be around 55 degrees Fahrenheit.
So, once you’ve planted your green beans, monitor your beans to notice any signs of nutrient deficiencies.
One sign of low nitrogen level is expressed by slow growth and pale green or yellow leaves. You can help the plant by spraying a balanced liquid spray on the green bean plant. This will supply direct nutrients to the plants rather than the soil first.
Best Branded Fertilizers for Green Beans
There are many branded fertilizers you can use for your green beans, but I’ve found that some are far better than others. Let’s take a closer look at some of our personal favorites.
Miracle-Gro All Purpose Plant Food. This is usually the most popular fertilizer to use on your green beans. It’s an all-around favorite and Miracle-Gro is one of the most trusted brands when it comes to gardening. You can use this fertilizer every few weeks on your green beans and you’ll quickly see the effect. This fertilizer is 24-8-16.
Old Farmer’s Almanac Fertilizer. This fertilizer is completely organic and made just for veggies, such as green beans. It helps both growth and root structure. This fertilizer is 8-4-8.
Osmocote Vegetable Plant Food. Easy to use and can be used for both perennials and veggies, such as green beans. It helps both root structure and plant growth. This fertilizer is 15-9-12.
Miracle-Gro Shake ‘n’ Feed. As mentioned, you can’t go wrong with Miracle-Gro, as it’s such a well-trusted and loved brand. It contains a range of micronutrients, as well as calcium. This fertilizer is 8-2-12.
Jobe’s Organic Vegetable Fertilizer. This product is absolutely ideal for green beans. It has a range of benefits besides producing tasty green beans, such as helping the soil and warding away any unwanted pests and diseases. As well as this, it’s also organic. This fertilizer is 2-7-4.
Dr. Earth Organic Fertilizer. Another great choice for any green bean enthusiast. It’s non-GMO, bursting with goodness and microbes, and even pro-biotics. This fertilizer is 4-6-3.
Best Fertilizer Without Nitrogen
Low nitrogen or nitrogen-free options are important when working with green beans. Some of the best options to use are:
bone meal
wood chips
potash
wood ash
cow manure
kelp meal
seaweed fertilizer
Best Liquid Fertilizer for Beans
The best liquid fertilizer for green beans is without a doubt Miracle-Gro All Purpose Plant Food. It’s a 24-8-16 fertilizer and is a multi-use fertilizer that can be used for any of your gardening needs. Just simply use your liquid fertilizer every few weeks to start seeing top results.
pH for Green Beans
The soil pH when growing green beans is very important. It should be kept anywhere from 6-6.5. This means that the soil should just be a little acidic. If this need isn’t met, it’s unlikely that your green beans will thrive and will likely have stunted growth.
If you test your soil and notice your soil is too acidic, you’ll need to add something alkaline, such as powdered lime to neutralize the soil. The more acidic your soil is, the more powdered lime you’ll have to add to reach the correct pH of 6-6.5.
If you test your soil and notice your soil is too alkaline, you’ll need to add something acidic, such as sulfur. The more alkaline your soil is, the more sulfur you’ll have to add to reach the correct pH of 6-6.5.
Conclusion on Best Fertilizer for Green Beans
The basis of what you need to know about the best fertilizer for growing green beans has been covered in this guide. To attain the best possible result, ensure you first test your soil to determine any nutrient deficiency. Then supply your green beans plant with the appropriate fertilizer.
So, anytime you need to grow green beans, consider any of the above fertilizers mentioned to help boost your plant yield. Be careful when applying to make sure you are applying the proper way.
Do you have any tips or tricks for choosing the best fertilizer for green beans? If so, please feel free to let us know in the comments below. And remember, sharing is caring!
I’ve grown green beans successfully in the past using the following mix: 20-30% Nitrogen (N) 40-50% Phosphorus (P) 10-15% Potassium (K) The only thing I can think of that would help is to add some sulfur. If you have any, use it, as sulfur is an essential nutrient for plants. The best time to plant green beans is from mid-May to early June. You can start seeds indoors or buy plants ready to be transplanted.
How often do you fertilize green beans?
You should fertilize your green beans when they are 4 to 6 inches tall, because that’s when they start to produce seeds. Use a fertilizer that has a low phosphorus-to-nitrogen ratio. This will allow your plants to focus on making seeds instead of growing roots. You should also try to keep the phosphorus-to-nitrogen ratio around 1:3 or 1:5. If you live in an area where your soil is acidic, then you should fertilize your green beans with a compound called lime. Lime is a form of limestone that has been treated with sulfur. In general, fertilize our beans once a week.
What nutrients do green beans need to grow?
Nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium are the three main nutrients for growth of plants. Green beans are easy to grow, and they grow well even in average soil. They prefer full sun, but will tolerate partial shade. They can be grown year-round in most climates, but if you live in a cold climate, it is best to start them indoors in late winter or early spring.
How do I grow green beans?
Seeding green beans is easy. They like to be planted about one inch deep and three inches apart. They also like to be fertilized at planting time with compost, manure or a general purpose fertilizer. As soon as they have sprouted, thin the plants to two inches apart. Water them frequently, especially during the first few weeks. If you are growing green beans in containers, keep them watered until they are tall enough to handle their own weight. In the fall, you can harvest your beans and store them for winter eating.
How can I increase the yield of my green beans?
The yield of your green bean crop is directly related to the amount of sunlight that reaches the plant during its growth period. During the early stages of growth, the plant needs to grow quickly, and therefore must be able to capture as much light as possible. The more light it can capture, the bigger it will get. As a result, your plants will be larger and the yields will be greater. Also, the quality of your green bean crop is directly related to the soil conditions in which the plants are growing. The more nutrients that are available to the plant, the better the quality will be.
Learn what a simple super soil recipe is and grow your plants like a pro with super soil. A simple super soil recipe is the combination of soil in addition to some amendments used to supply optimal nutrients throughout the entire life cycle of a plant.
There are great benefits of using simple super soil such as long-lasting, nutrient availability, it can be recycled, and so on. We will teach you how to make this amazing simple super soil recipe.
Know What a Super Soil Recipe Is
A super soil recipe is a mixture of various soil and amendments that contains adequate nutrients for all the life cycles of a plant. The mixture of super soil requires composting or a cooking process that can last around 1 to 3 months.
The cooking process breaks down minerals and amends the soil from the beneficial bacteria this process produces. These beneficial bacteria create an ecosystem that will coexist with the root of your plant root system.
How to Make Simple Super Soil Recipe
Making simple super soil recipes is pretty easy. Just follow our guidelines and make yourself an amazing super soil.
Ingredients
Below are the recipes required for making a simple super soil recipe for a 90-gallon soil:
6 by 8 tarp to hold soil
5-gallon bucket
Shovel
Grow green filter water
2 bags of base soil, root organic which contains lots of beneficial ingredients
Go ahead and set up all your ingredients and let’s begin.
Step 1
Get your 5-gallon bucket and pour in the bone or fish meal, azomite, Epsom salt, dolomite, and kelp meal and mix them all up. Set the mixture aside. Now, get your tarp and spread it on the floor and pour out your organic base soil and add the earthworm casting. Add some perlite to help with soil aeration and mix them nicely and evenly.
Step 2
Get the mixed ingredients in the 5-gallon bucket and spread them on top of the mixture of earthworm casting and root organic. Add the regular potting soil and coco coir. Next, go ahead and mix with a shovel.
Step 3
Grab your hose and sprinkle about 2 gallons of water. Make sure not to saturate the mixture, just wet it. Grab your shovel and mix.
Cooking process
Once you’re done mixing, you can transfer the mixture into 3 different 30 gallons buckets and allow it to cook. In this cooking process, the bacteria and fungi start breaking down amendments of the super soil. This process allows the nutrients in the soil to mix readily available for your plants.
Depending on how long you wish to grow your super soil, the cooking process can take around 1 to 3 months.
If you’re looking at growing just flowers, you can simply cook your soil for about a month. However, if you want to grow an entire seasonal crop, we recommend composting or cooking your super soil recipe for the full 3 months.
When the process is completed, the final product is available to be used for outdoor or indoor cultivation.
Benefits of Using Super Soil
The benefits of using super soil include:
No extra maintenance, all you need do is water your plant weekly.
No stress of continually adding nutrients because super soil already contains all growing nutrients required throughout the life cycle of your plant.
Super soil is great for both indoor and outdoor growing use.
Super soil can be reused and reconditioned every season. Thus it saves you the cost of buying or building new soil from the scratch.
You will enjoy a long-lasting garden effect.
Organic Super Soil Recipe
If you’re looking to make your own organic super soil, then look no further. It doesn’t require too many ingredients and it’s super easy to make. For this organic super soil, you’ll need the following products:
8 bags of organic potting soil
3lbs rock phosphate
3/4 cup of Epsom salts
25-50lbs of organic worm castings
5lbs of bone meal
5lbs of bat guano
5 lbs blood meal
1/2 cup azomite
1/2 cup dolomite
2 tablespoons of humic acid
Then all you need to do is add all the ingredients together and leave it for at least a month, for the best results. Once you’re ready to use, be sure to use this soil at the bottom. And watch the magic happen to your plants.
How to Make Your Own Living Soil
Making your own living soil doesn’t have to be difficult. If you’re unsure what living soil is, it’s simply soil that’s full of life. For example, you’ll usually find earthworms, fungi, arthropods, and many more within the soil and they make the nutrients that will help your plants to thrive. So how do you go about making it? Let’s take a closer look.
The first thing you need to do is have a solid starting base. The best way to do this is with 1/3 aeration, 1/3 peat, and 1/3 compost. Once you have your base mix, you can begin adding the nutrients that will help your plants to thrive, these are very important.
You should use around 1/2 per cubic foot of soil of whatever nutrients you’d like to add. I find that either a fish meal or crustacean meal works best, or you can use a mixture of both. As well as this, you may want to add micronutrients too; such as worm castings and kelp meal.
Taking a look deeper into your living soil, you’ll also need to provide a calcium-rich environment. While it’ll already contain some calcium, I’ve found that it simply isn’t enough. Adding ingredients such as lime and rock phosphate can be really beneficial to your soil.
For your living soil, that’s all you really need. However, for the most important part, you’ll need to leave your soil to sit for at least a month. It should be kept moist during this time. This gives the soil time to optimize and will allow for best results.
The best thing about this soil is that you can use it again and again. However, every time you harvest, be sure to add extra compost of worm castings. This is so the soil can be renourished and will be just as effective as it once was.
It’s also worth mentioning that minerals are important to add to your soil, I typically use equal parts rock dust, basalt, and gypsum for best results.
There are many recipes you can follow, but this is one of my personal favorites:
1/3 peat
1/3 aeration
1/3 compost
And then for every cubic feet of your soil, you’ll need the following:
1/2 cup of kelp meal
1/2 cup of crustacean meal
1/2 cup of neem meal
4 cups of minerals, using the guide above
Bottom Line: Simple Super Soil Recipe
The bottom line is making a simple super soil recipe is a great thing if you want long-lasting nutrient availability for your plants. Your plants will enjoy a lifetime nutrient supply and you won’t have to worry about adding extra nutrients.
Follow our guidelines and make yourself an amazing super soil recipe. We hope you found our post on the simple super soil recipe helpful. Happy growing! Do you have any tips or tricks when it comes to making your own simple super soil? If so, please feel free to let us know in the comments below. And remember, sharing is caring!
Today, we’re going to be answering the question: can you compost shrimp shells? There is a standard procedure for composting shrimp shells. Shrimp shells are fully compostable. This means that shrimp shells can be turned to compost whether they are raw or cooked.
The shells will ordinarily decompose when they are allowed to be broken down by microorganisms into organic compost.
Composting shrimp shells is important as the compounds got from this process are highly beneficial to the soil. This article gives you an idea of what to do when composting shrimp shells.
How to go about the composting process and the best temperature for this are also discussed herein. Before we go into the composting process for shrimp shells, let’s understand what composting means.
Thereafter, this question will be answered: can you compost shrimp shells?
Meaning of Composting
Composting is the process of collecting and storing plant material so it can decay. This decayed substance is known as compost. When added to the soil, it helps to greatly improve soil quality.
Composting is therefore a process of utilizing plant material that ordinarily would have been considered waste.
Items Required to Compost Shrimp Shells
For the composting process to be successfully carried out, the following items are required: shrimp shells, compost piles, compost bucket, shovel, green yard waste, brown yard waste, and kitchen scraps. All of these items can be turned into compost and added to the soil to improve the quality.
Shrimp shells are useful when making compost because they contain relevant compounds to the composting process. These compounds feed bacteria and fungi in the soil, which in turn, helps break down the soil.
If you are interested in making compost from shrimp shells, you must endeavor to follow the following steps:
Step 1. Collect shrimp shells
If you are interested in making compost from shrimp shells, then do the following. Shrimp shells can be collected from peeled shrimp in a compost bucket or bowl. You can include the tails and heads of the shells collected. This bucket should have an air-tight lid. Shrimp shells should be simmered in boiling water for 20 to 30 minutes and oven-dried to remove fat from the shells. Too much fat will result in a serious smell of the compost.
Step 2. Digging
The second step in the process involves digging a 12-inch hole in your existing compost pile. A shovel should be used when doing this to ensure that the hole is deep as possible to contain the shells.
Step 3. Put the shrimp shells in a hole
After digging the required hole, you should place the collected shrimp shells in the hole. After doing this, the hole should be covered with some of the compost you removed while making the hole.
Step 4. Continuous addition of green and brown waste
You should continue to add both green and brown waste alongside kitchen waste to the pile.
Step 5. Turning of compost
For the best possible result to be achieved, the shrimp compost should be turned every month with a shovel. This should be done to allow for sufficient oxygen to the microbes.
The decomposition usually produces heat and turning will help reduce this. You can use a compost thermometer to measure the internal temperature and regulate the same. It should be from 140 to 160 degrees.
Step 6. Add water to compost
Microbes usually need water to survive. Failure to add sufficient water to the pile may lead to the death of microbes. This will ultimately result in the compost pile heating up. Be careful however not to add too much water. This will likely turn your compost into a slimy mess and decomposition will halt. It shouldn’t thus be too wet or too dry.
Step 7. Allow the compost to season
You should allow the shrimp compost to remain in the hole for at least a year. After a year has elapsed, you may then use the compost in your garden or farm.
You already understand that composting is the method of adding organic material to a compost pile. Composting, therefore, is one way of saving organic waste from reaching landfills.
Asides from this, composting is a method of creating rich organic materials which are useful to your farm or garden.
One advantage of using shrimp shells for composting is that they break down fast. This is so because they are very thin, unlike other shell animals.
Material to Exclude From Your Compost
There are a few materials that should not be added to your compost pile. These items should be excluded as they can easily attract unwanted pests and animals to the pile. These items may also be very toxic. Some toxic materials that should not be included include wood chips coated with paint, ink, chemicals, and fecal matter.
Also, you should not include plants that were likely infected with pests or diseases in the pile. Furthermore, weeds pulled out from the ground should not be included in the compost pile. These infected plants and weeds may be very toxic to the composting process. It is, therefore, best for you to avoid including them.
Using Shrimp Shells Compost as Fertilizers
Because shrimp shells are good for preparing compost, you may wonder if they can be used as fertilizers. The answer is in the affirmative.
Shrimp shells can be used as fertilizers because they contain chitin compounds. This compound slowly adds nitrogen to your soil in a very non-toxic method.
So if you are interested in growing a plant that has a huge nitrogen requirement, shrimp shells may be used as fertilizers.
In addition, shrimp shells usually contain a sufficient amount of calcium carbonate. They can therefore be a good source of calcium for the soil. This means that plants like pear, citrus, lettuce, apple, etc. will benefit from this.
When shrimp shells are used as fertilizers, they get grounded or crushed before being applied to the soil. By doing so, the nutrients contained in the shell are easily absorbed by the soil.
How to Stop Your Shrimp Shells From Smelling?
One thing’s for sure – shrimp shells can smell. And it’s not the kind of smell that you want lingering in your garden, so it’s understanding why you’re worrying about the smell of decomposing shrimp in your garden! This is why you must manage the smell before you even start to compost it. Let’s take a closer look at some tips to stop that awful odor.
While it’s tempting to just add the shrimp shells as they are, we would highly recommend not doing this. When you’re ready to compost your shells, simply place them in boiling water. Boil for around 20 minutes. Then remove them from the water, strain them, and leave them to dry until ready to use.
Another method you can use is to bake your shrimp shells in the oven. After time in the oven, it’ll be easy to grind down your shrimp shells in a blender or food processor (or simply in a bag with a rolling pin!). Once your ground shrimp shells are ready, you can add them to your compost and they’ll definitely be no lingering odor from this method!
Shrimp Shell Nutrition
Shrimp shells are often overlooked and underrated. While they may not seem appealing, they can be full of protein and minerals. You may be wondering what the nutrition is of a shell on shrimp. One serving of shell-on shrimp contains the following:
calories: 80
protein: 16g
fat: 1.5g
cholesterol: 165mg
iron: 0.4mg
calcium: 100mg
sodium: 840mg
Shrimp Shell Waste Uses
There are many uses for your shrimp shell waste. In fact, in recent years, shrimp waste has been used for several reasons. This is because shrimp shell waste contains many compounds which are useful to many aspects of our lives. The compounds include chitin and pigments. Such compounds are used in a range of areas, such as medical, cosmetics, biotech, and even textiles!
While you’ll be unable to do any of those things from the comfort of your home, you can obviously also use your shrimp shell waste for compost, or one of my other favorite uses is making shrimp stock. They’re typically full of flavor and whatever seafood course you’re making, the shrimp shell waste will complement.
To make a shrimp shell stock, all you need to do is add the shells to a pan of cold water and add some seasoning of your choice, if preferred; such as herbs or peppercorns. Heat over medium heat and leave to boil uncovered for around 15 minutes. At this point, the stock should have changed color and you can simply strain the shells away and add the stock, as needed, to your seafood dishes.
There are many uses of shrimp shell waste in everyday life; even in your kitchen and garden!
Final Note: Can You Compost Shrimp Shells?
I hope this post has helped to answer the question: can you compost shrimp shells? Shrimp shells as we have seen above are great for preparing compost. The right procedure must however be followed by you in composting shrimp shells. Following the above will definitely help you attain your desired goal of preparing shrimp compost.
Do you have any tips or tricks when it comes to composting shrimp shells? If so, please feel free to let us know in the comments below. And remember, sharing is caring!
Shrimp shells are a valuable resource. They’re an excellent source of calcium and phosphorous, which are both needed for plant growth. You can use them to fertilize your garden or plant them in a flower bed. But if you’re adding them to your compost bin, you’ll need to do a little pre-composting first. The first step is to remove the hard outer shell. You can do this with a hammer and chisel, but a more convenient method is to use an electric grinder. This method will make sure you get every last bit of the shell out of the shrimp. Next, shred the soft parts of the shrimp by hand. You don’t have to be too careful here, but it’s better to be safe than sorry. Don’t forget to save the shells for the next step! You can now put the shrimp shells into a compost bin or pile, where they will decompose over time. Make sure to check on the progress regularly, as the process can take up to 6 months to complete. 1. Mix the Shrimp Shells with the Other Ingredients You’ll want to add the shrimp shells to your soil at a rate of about 25% of the total amount of other ingredients. If you don’t have any extra, you can also buy a bag of pre-mixed organic compost. 2. Add the Compost to Your Garden Once you have the shrimp shells mixed in with the other ingredients, you’ll want to start adding them to your garden. You can start by spreading them out on a flat surface, then adding more to the center of your garden. This is because the bacteria in the compost will quickly work to break down the shell particles, which will help it be easier for you to add it to your garden. 3. Monitor Your Garden When it comes to composting, it’s important to keep an eye on it to make sure the process continues to run smoothly. The best way to do this is to check on it regularly, as you’ll want to see if there’s any noticeable change in color or smell. If there is, you may want to take a closer look at the reason why. For example, if the compost has become very dark or wet, this could mean that the worms have died or that the process has stopped altogether. Either way, you’ll want to take steps to ensure that it doesn’t happen again.
How long does shrimp shell take to decompose?
The answer depends on the amount of calcium carbonate present in the shell, as well as the temperature. If there is little calcium carbonate in the shell, then it can be broken down within a few weeks. However, if there is more calcium carbonate in the shell, then it takes much longer.
Is it OK to put prawn shells in compost?
Yes, this is fine.
You can use them in your compost bin. They will not harm your plants, but will break down over time, adding nutrients to the soil. It will take longer than other materials such as straw or wood chips.
