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Category: Organic Food

  • Know the Best Time to Pick Potatoes [Potato Harvest Time]

    Know the Best Time to Pick Potatoes [Potato Harvest Time]

    Homegrown potatoes are arguably better than anything you can buy at a supermarket. Growing them however can be a bit tricky if you are inexperienced. One of the key things with growing them at home is to know when to pick potatoes.

    Knowing how to harvest and handle homegrown potatoes after harvest will help you to end up with the maximum possible harvest your garden can produce. You will also be able to store them for a long, even through the winter months. To get to know when to pick potatoes, keep reading.

    The Potato Plant

    Solanum tuberosum, commonly known as potato is one of the most commonly grown and consumed vegetables worldwide. It is a staple for many traditional dishes and is used to make many fast food dishes and snacks.

    Potatoes are a cool-weather vegetable and can be grown as a winter crop in areas with a warm climate. They belong to the nightshade family of plants which also has peppers, tomatoes, and eggplants.

    The potato plant has green leaves that grow on top of the soil and help you to see where your potatoes are planted. It also has a tuber, which is the enlarged underground portion, which we refer to as “the potato”. The tuber develops underground once the plants get to about 6-8 inches in height. This usually happens around 5-7 weeks after planting.

    There are over 100 types of potatoes. They differ in skin and flesh colors, shapes, and sizes. Some of these are ideal for mashing, roasting, frying, and for making salads. Potatoes are also nutritious. The skin is especially nutrient-rich and provides u to 45% of an adult’s daily vitamin C and 18% potassium requirements.

    Growing Potatoes

    Potatoes will grow well as long as they are provided with the right growing conditions. They do well in most types of soils and will produce a lot of good potatoes for your harvest.

    Grow potatoes in an area where they will receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight. The soil should be fertile, loose, and well-draining. Refrain from using any hard or compacted soil as it will lead to disfigured potatoes and will make harvesting difficult when the time comes. You can improve the quality of the soil by adding compost, and soil amendments, and preparing the soil before planting.

    The ideal soil pH for growing potatoes is acidic and should be between 5.8 and 6.5. The temperature should be 45 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit.

    The best time to plant potatoes is in the spring 2 to 4 weeks before the frost day in your area. The temperatures should still be ideal at this time. If planted at the right time, you should expect to harvest them late in the summer and can store them through the fall and winter months.

    Harvesting Potatoes

    Harvesting potatoes can seem tricky, but it is pretty simple if you know what you are doing. Knowing when to pick potatoes is also key. They are best harvested on dry days as harvesting in the mud when it is raining may cause issues. Since you cannot see the tubers underground while you harvest, you need to be extremely careful not to puncture the tubers. If the soil is loose, it should be pretty easy to maneuver with your fingers, this will help you to avoid cutting on causing bruising on the skin of the potatoes.

    Potatoes can tolerate light frost, but when the first hard frost is expected, it’s time to get out the shovels and start digging potatoes.

    Knowing the right time to harvest potatoes and doing so will keep the vegetables from sitting too long in the ground, and will reduce the chances of attack by pathogens that target potatoes.

    The size of your tubers should be about the size of a chicken egg or bigger when you harvest them. You can leave them to grow a bit more if you prefer. You should use a digging fork from around the edges and work your way into where your potatoes are planted. This should help loosen the soil without puncturing the potatoes. Once the soil has loosened, you can use your fingers to feel around and get the potatoes that you want out.

    Here are some considerations to keep in mind when harvesting potatoes:

    • Toughen up your potatoes for storage before harvesting them, by limiting how much you water them after the middle of August.
    • Before harvesting your entire crop, dig up a small test hill to see how big or mature your plants are. The skin of mature potatoes will be thick and firmly attached to the potato flesh. Those that are still young will have thin skin that comes off the potato when gently rubbed.
    • If the soil is wet when you harvest the potatoes, let them air dry completely before storing them.
    • Check for any green pots on your harvested potatoes, if it is just superficial and can be trimmed off, the potatoes should be fine to keep. If the green goes deep into the flesh, throw away the potatoes as they may be poisonous.
    • Cure your potatoes before long-term storage. Do this by letting them sit in temperatures of 45 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit for about two weeks. This time will give the potatoes time to heal or harden any small cuts that may be present. You do not need to cure them if you are going to eat them right off the ground.
    • Store potatoes in a cool, dry, and dark place after harvesting. Too much light will turn them green, rendering them unsuitable for eating.
    • Store the potatoes that are damaged, diseased, or bruise-free to avoid any storage problems.
    • Store your potatoes in baskets, cardboard boxes, or crates with holes on the sides so the vegetables get enough ventilation to prevent rot.
    • Regularly check on your stored potatoes and remove any ones that may get damaged or start to rot before they infect the others.

    harvesting potatoes

    When to Harvest Potatoes in Containers

    Whether you are harvesting potatoes from the ground, grow bags, containers, or grow beds, the method to follow is the same. When to pick potatoes, and how exactly to do it, will be the same.

    Once your potato plants start to flower, you know it is almost time to harvest. Wait for a bit, just until the flowers start to dry and drop off the plant. After this happens, the potatoes will remain tender for about 2-3 weeks.

    If you prefer to pick your potatoes at this stage, keep in mind that you will need to eat them soon after harvest as they do not store well. They are delicious but have really thin skins that affect their shelf life.

    To harvest larger, more mature potatoes, you should leave them for longer than this in the soil. Growing them in a potato grow bed will help you easily monitor the size of your potatoes.

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    The longer you intend to let your potatoes grow for, the more you will need to protect them from animals, children, and pets so they can grow and mature well.

    Because potatoes can be damaged by frost, you should always harvest them just before the frost hits, whether they are mature or still in their baby stage.

    How to Know When Potatoes Are Ready to Harvest

    So how do you know the best time to pick potatoes? Knowing when to harvest potatoes can be quite easy. Once the potato tubers have started to set, they are ready to harvest. You will know that they have reached this stage when you notice them flowering.

    To harvest baby potatoes, dig up potatoes just as the plants have started to flower. Wait until the tops of the vines have completely died to harvest full-size potatoes. This shows that the plant has now directed all of its energy into growing the tubers.

    As you figure out when to pick potatoes, watch out for other symptoms of disease with the die-off of your plants, as not all browning and die-off are part of the plant’s natural cycle.

    Potatoes can tolerate light frost, however, when the first hard frost is expected you should pull off the shovels and start digging potatoes. So you should harvest all your potatoes before the frost hits or you might lose your crop.

    If you do not harvest your potatoes, you will create a perennial patch of potatoes. Potatoes left in the ground and not harvested will either grow new plants, or sprout and produce new plants in the spring of the following growth season. Which of these happens will depend on the climate where you live.

    How to Store Potatoes

    How you store your harvested potatoes depends on the size of your harvest and how long you intend to store them for. If you are harvesting potatoes to consume within a few days, storage should not be a concern as you can store them anywhere.

    To store them for longer, however, you should find them some space in a cool place with temperatures of between 38 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit. If you store them in a warm place, they will be susceptible to diseases, decreasing their shelf life.

    The storage space for potatoes also needs to have a humidity of about 80%, or the tubers will wither and dry out.

    Make sure that the place is also not exposed to sunlight as this will cause the greening of the potatoes. Fresh air and ventilation are crucial for storing potatoes, airtight containers should not be used.

    Never store potatoes with apples. The ethylene gas from apples will cause the potatoes to spoil.

    Avoid storing potatoes in the fridge. This is because after potatoes are harvested, they convert starch to sugar depending on the temperature. They will do this if stored in the fridge, and the potatoes taste weird. Another reason is that storing potatoes in the fridge leads to an increase in the levels of acrylamide. This compound is produced when you cook potatoes at high temperatures. Acrylamide causes cancer in animals, so there is a good chance it might also be harmful to humans.

    Depending on the variety, potatoes can last 4-6 months if stored well.

    Conclusion – Know the Best Time to Pick Potatoes

    Growing and harvesting potatoes at home is one of the most satisfying things to do. Digging them up makes for a fun activity that can be done with kids. Knowing when to pick potatoes and the best method to harvest will ensure that you get the best harvest and can store your potatoes well if you wish.

    We hope you found this article on how to know the best time to pick potatoes informative and helpful.

    Happy growing.

  • How to Harvest Kale So the Leaves Keep Growing

    How to Harvest Kale So the Leaves Keep Growing

    Kale is one of the easiest and best leafy greens to grow currently. Also dubbed a superfood due to its many health benefits, if you’re a health enthusiast, you definitely want to know how to harvest kale so the leaves keep growing and give you a continuous harvest.

    To learn how to do this right, let’s keep reading.

    Summary: How to Harvest Mature Kale

    To harvest Kale, grasp the stem of the mature outer leaf at the base of the main stalk and pull down and out, away from the center, until it breaks. Ensure that you leave at least 5 central leaves on the plant so that it keeps growing.

    What is Kale?

    Brassica oleracea var. sabellica, commonly known as kale is a leafy green vegetable that belongs to the cabbage family and is grown for its edible leaves.

    Mostly eaten raw in salads, but can also be eaten cooked, kale has a variety of micronutrients such as vitamins A, C, and K, minerals, antioxidants, carotenoids, glucosinolates, and polyphenols, all of which are beneficial to human health.

    If you plant kale at the right time, you will have a long season of harvest which will give you ample time to enjoy your fresh greens. Kale is typically a cool-weather vegetable but you can get a longer harvest if you plant it late in the summer to harvest in the fall and winter. It is also surprisingly hardy and frost tolerant. Certain cold-tolerant varieties will keep growing as long as the weather stays above 20°F.

    This plant produces so many large leaves that when it is mature, it takes you only a few minutes to gather enough for a nutritious meal.

    Most varieties of kale are biennial, meaning they have a two-year life cycle but people mostly grow it as an annual with a one-year growth cycle. Some kale varieties are perennial and can live for 5-7 years.

    When to Harvest Kale

    Kale is as easy to harvest as it is to grow. However, you need to know exactly the method and the right time to harvest it. So when is the best time to harvest kale? Well, this will depend on the variety or cultivar of kale that you are growing as they have different rates of growth.

    There are also two distinct harvesting stages of kale, baby kale, and mature kale. The timing of the harvest will depend on what stage you want to harvest the leaves at.

    Kale typically matures approximately 60 days after the seeds have been planted in the soil. By the time healthy plants reach this point, they will have at least 10 leaves with the larger ones on the outside and the smaller ones on the inside.

    If you want to harvest your kale leaves while they are in the baby stage, this is best done 25 to 30 days after planting the seeds.

    Kale is usually harvested in the late spring months, early summer, and again in autumn.

    The time of harvest can also depend on the growing zone you are in and the time of the year. If you have a climate that greatly favors kale growth, you can harvest kale every one or two weeks.

    Some kale gardeners even like to plant kale in the fall so that it can go through a frost before harvesting. The cold weather causes the plants to convert their starches to sugar, which greatly improves their taste.

    How to Cut Kale From Garden

    Harvesting kale is an extremely simple process. You can easily cut off the individual leaves without damaging the entire plant. This is as long as you don’t cut the central bud.

    Here are the considerations to keep in mind when harvesting kale from the garden;

    • Cut off the leaves where the leaf stem meets the main stem of the plant – instead of cutting, you can also break the leaves from the stem by pushing it down with your thumb and pulling it away from the plant.
    • Do not cut the main stem of the plant – if you cut the team off, the plant will stop producing
    • Leave about 1/3 of the leaves on the plant so that it can regenerate over time – pick as many leaves as you want from the kale plant, but do not leave it bare if you wish to continue harvesting
    • Do not cut the root of the plant – this should go without saying, but if you cut the roots of your kale plant it will die
    • Pick the largest and oldest leaves first – this will give the younger plants time to grow before they can be harvested
    • Use the same method whether you are harvesting kale in the baby or the mature method – this way, your kale will keep growing
    • While harvesting, watch out for and remove yellow or spotted leaves – remove any yellow or spotted leaves as soon as you notice them. Leaving sick or dead leaves on the plants will take up energy that the plant should be channeling toward healthy growth to extend your harvest. If you consistently spot any yellow, spotted, or wilted leaves on your plants, it could be a sign of distress. Check for any possible causes such as common kale pests like cabbage worms and aphids, overwatering, or a nutrient deficiency. Once you have established what the cause is remedy it as soon as possible to give your plant the best chance of survival. If it is a watering issue, adjust your watering schedule, if the cause is pests, include pest control in your maintenance routine, I recommend you read the article Amazing Natural Insect Pest Control Methods that Works.
    harvesting kale

    How to Harvest Baby Kale

    If you’re growing baby kale for use in salads, the best time to harvest them is 25-30 days after planting. The best variety for baby kale is the Red Russian and it is commonly grown for this purpose

    Wait until the plants have multiple leaves that are about 2-3″ in length. Just keep in mind that when you harvest the leaves smaller, the yield per plant will also be smaller.

    To harvest small kale leaves, simply use your fingers to pinch each individual leaf at the base of the stem. You can also use a sharp pair of scissors or a knife to cut the leaves. Grab a handful of leaves and cut them off about two inches above the ground. This will enable your plant to keep growing as long as you keep the central point intact.

    To keep harvesting young kale leaves, watch them carefully for about 3-4 weeks because kale can quickly outgrow the baby stage.

    How to Harvest Mature Kale

    Full-size, grown, or mature kale leaves have a tougher texture and a stronger flavor than baby leaves. Older leaves can become discolored and eventually fall off the plant. If you notice this happening, remove these leaves and only harvest the ones that still look green and healthy. When you pick mature kale leaves, ensure that you leave at least 5 central leaves on the plant so that it can continue to make food via photosynthesis and keep growing.

    For mature kale leaves, it is best to cook before consuming them or use them to make kale chips. You can also massage them thoroughly before eating them if you don’t want to cook them

    When they’re mature, they should be about the size of an adult’s palm or bigger. To harvest them, grasp the stem of the mature outer leaf at the base of the main stalk and pull down and out, away from the center, until it breaks. Repeat the same process until you have harvested all the leaves that you want. If your plants are still new or you are worried about damaging them, you can also use a knife, scissors, or running shears instead of your hands to harvest. This will help to prevent snapping the stem.

    Kale Growth Period

    Kale days to harvest is about 55-60 days after planting, as that is the regular period it takes to mature. If the kale is planted from seed in the soil, however, it can take closer t 3 months before they are full-sized.

    How to Store Kale after Harvest

    Freshly picked kale leaves can be stored and last up to 2-3 weeks in the refrigerator if stored well. Do not store it without protection in the fridge because it will quickly wilt. Put the leaves in a ziplock plastic bag or a storage container.

    Kale can also be frozen, and last about 4-6 weeks before turning bitter. To do this properly, wash and chop the leaves before freezing them.

    If you want to keep kale in the freezer for more than 6 weeks, you can blanch it before freezing. This way it will store for about 8-12 months.

    Whichever way you decide to store your kale, follow these basic preparation steps:

    Step 1: Wash

    Wash all the harvested kale leaves thoroughly with cold water, because hot or warm water will make them wilt, and you want to maintain the crunch.

    Step 2: Cut

    Remove or cut off the stems, unless you want to eat them.

    Step 3: Dry

    Pat the leaves dry with a towel or let them air dry for about 10 minutes.

    Step 4: Put them in a bag

    Put the clean and dry leaves in a resealable storage bag or container, with a piece of paper towel to absorb moisture and prevent it from damaging the leaves.

    Step 5: Squeeze out the air

    If you’re storing them in a bag, squeeze out as much of the air as you can.

    Step 6: Store

    Store the leaves in your preferred place. If the leaves go yellow before you eat them, throw them away.

    You can grow many other green leafy vegetables like Spinach or Lettuce

    Conclusion – How to Harvest Kale So the Leaves Keep Growing

    Kale is a nutritious vegetable and can be used to prepare delicious dishes with a bit of information. Knowing when and how to harvest kale is also important, depending on what you plan to use them for. This article provided you with all the information you could ever need on how to harvest kale so the leaves keep going, kale days to maturity, and how to store your harvested kale. We hope that you found it very helpful and will now go and grow your kale and harvest it properly for long periods of time.

    Happy growing!

  • How to Harvest Dill Properly and Save It for Later- 4 Steps

    How to Harvest Dill Properly and Save It for Later- 4 Steps

    Dill seeds have a teardrop shape and have a characteristic brown stripy coat. To harvest them, wait for the flowers to open and turn brown before trimming them off and drying the seed. 

    Another way to harvest them is to cut off the fading flowers and place them in a paper bag, in an upside-down position. Tie this bag and hang it up somewhere where it will be exposed to sunlight, where it will dry. After the seeds ripen, they will fall into the bag and then they will be ready for storage.

     

    How to Prune Dill

    Pruning dill can extend its life span. Picking it often, like with most herbs and vegetables can encourage growth and will result in strong healthy plants.

    To prune dill, use a sharp pair of scissors or pruning shears to cut off the frond-like leaves at the top of the plant, above the leaf set. 

    The Best Way to Store Dill

    Freshly harvested dill can wilt quite quickly, and as it does so will start to lose its flavor and aroma. If stored properly, however, this should not be a concern. There are various ways that you can store your dill, these are;

    • Store it in the refrigerator’s crisp drawer – it will stay fresh for a few days
    • Put it in water – harvest dill with the stems and place them in a glass of water, and cover the top with a plastic bag. This way, dill leaves will stay fresh for about a week.
    • Freeze it – chop your dill into small pieces and freeze it with some water in ice cube trays. This way, you can store your dill for up to 4 months.
    • Dry it – drying will reduce the flavor of the dill but it can still be used and will store for a very long time. Chop the dill up and dry it until it is crumbly. You can then store it in an airtight container.
    • Stick to hang drying – instead of cutting the dill up before drying it, you can hang the dill leaves together. Tie them up with a string, and hang them upside down in a well-ventilated area. Allow them to air dry until they are crumbling and then store them in an airtight container or ziplock bag.

    Conclusion – How to Harvest Dill Properly and Save It for Later

    There you have it, the best way to harvest dill and save it properly. Dill is such an easy herb to grow and has so many versatile uses from culinary to health to fragrances. Once you start growing it, it can take over your growing environment if it is not properly controlled.

    Knowing how to harvest dill properly and save it for later will help you to enjoy the best out of your harvest. There are so many different ways that you can store dill, depending on how long you want to keep it. You can freeze, refrigerate and even dry this amazing herb for later use, ensuring that you can have a constant supply all year round without having to wait for its ideal growing season.

    Depending on where you live, you may even be able to grow dill all year round depending on the climate. If that is not an option for you, you can just select the dwarf variety of dill that can be grown indoors where you can manipulate temperatures.

    With so many options to choose from when it comes to varieties, growing conditions, and storage of dill, you can definitely find an option to suit you. There is absolutely no reason why you can’t enjoy this amazing and versatile herb.

    Happy gardening!

    Do you know how to harvest dill properly and save it for later? Do you grow and harvest a lot of dill and would like to know how to preserve it to get maximum use out of your harvest? Keep reading this article to learn more about how to enjoy the many different uses of this fast-growing plant.

    Dill pairs really well with many dishes and adds a great flavor and lovely fragrance. So you will want to learn how to save it. Keep reading.

    Dill, like most herbs, can be harvested continuously throughout the growing season, because it grows really fast. The best way to harvest dill is if you cut it off next to the stem and the plant will continue to grow.

    About Dill

    Dill, scientific name Anethum graveolens L., is also often referred to as dill weed because it can grow like a weed if the growing conditions are ideal.

    The dill plant grows in slender, hollow stems that have green feather-shaped leaves of fennel. The delicate leaves of dill have their own distinct aroma. The dill seeds are brown and flat and have a great mild citrus flavor, and smell a lot like caraway.

    Depending on where it is grown, the taste of dill can vary. There are also many different varieties of dill to choose from, which again can differ in taste.

    The different types of dill plants can be dwarf, or taller. The dwarf types of plants are the Fernleaf and Nano. Because these varieties only grow up to 12-18 inches, they are ideal for growing indoors in pots and window boxes. You can also use a smart pot to grow dill.

    The taller variety, appropriately named the Mammoth can reach heights of 5 ft 10 in when fully matured. This type of dill plant has large umbrella-style flowers.

    Dill is a seasonal herb and thrives in the cooler months of the year. Depending on the climate, it is possible to grow and harvest dill all year round. This means that you can enjoy fresh dill all year round. In cases where greenhouses are used, dill can also be grown all year round since the temperatures can be controlled to create an ideal growing environment.

    The dill plant has been used in Ayurvedic medicines since ancient times. Although it is most popularly used as a spice, it also yields good quantities of essential oils that are much loved for their aroma. Other uses of dill include the use as a digestive herb that provides a relaxing and calming effect on the gut. It can also be used to relieve nausea, colic, and wind while also assisting with appetite.

    You can read the following article if you want to grow other types of herbs: Popular Herbs With Shallow Roots

    Harvesting Dill

    Knowing how to harvest dill properly, and save it for later is very important. Dill, like most herbs, can be harvested continuously throughout the growing season, because it grows really fast. If you cut it next to the stem, the plant will keep growing. As long as you harvest it the right way, you can be sure to have a constant supply of dill throughout the year.

    Here are the steps to follow to ensure that you use the best way to harvest dill.

    1. Give your dill plant sufficient time to grow

    Dill takes anywhere between 4-8 weeks to grow and fully mature. So when they grow to about 6 inches in height, then you know they are ready to harvest.

    Harvesting the largest, older outer leaves of the plant is best. This will give the smaller leaves more time to mature and give you a continuous supply.

    2. Water your dill plant before harvesting

    Water the dill plant about one day before harvesting to ensure that the plant stays hydrated. Watering the plant before harvest will keep it hydrated so that it will recover faster after the older leaves are cut off.

    3. Trim the leaves

    To trim the leaves, use a sharp pair of garden scissors or pruning shears, and cut them next to the stem right where they meet the growth point on the main stem. If you don’t have cutting implements, you can simply use your hand to pinch the stems off. This will work even better if the stems are still young and tender.

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    4. Limit the leaves you cut off

    Pay careful attention to the number of leaves you harvest from one plant. Only take about a quarter to a third of the leaves to allow new growth to develop so that you can have a continuous harvest.

    how to harvest dill

    When to Harvest Dill

    As already mentioned, it takes about 4-8 weeks for dill to get mature. Dill can be harvested after this time period, After this amount of time has passed and your dill has at least 4-5 leaves, you can go ahead and harvest it. Remember to only pick the outer, older leaves so that the smaller leaves can have time to grow.

    Harvesting the outside leaves will prompt new shoots and foliage to develop. It will also delay flowering and the formation of seeds.  Removing the flower stalks can also help to prolong leaf production. Do not harvest the center of the plant as it may not grow back.

    You can harvest dill early in the growing season by either cutting it back to about 4 inches of growth or from all around the plant.

    The best time to pick dill leaves is just before the flowers open. They should be sprayed with water at least overnight before harvest and should be picked up early in the morning.

    How to harvest dill edible flowers

    In addition to the leaves, dill flowers are also edible and can be harvested. They are bright yellow and delicious. Dill flowers are great for garnishing both sweet and savory dishes and sales. They are best consumed fresh. To harvest the flowers, simply snip off what your need. They can even be stored in the freezer for later use.

    Read about Are Cilantro Flowers Edible?

    How to harvest dill seeds

    Dill seeds have a teardrop shape and have a characteristic brown stripy coat. To harvest them, wait for the flowers to open and turn brown before trimming them off and drying the seed. 

    Another way to harvest them is to cut off the fading flowers and place them in a paper bag, in an upside-down position. Tie this bag and hang it up somewhere where it will be exposed to sunlight, where it will dry. After the seeds ripen, they will fall into the bag and then they will be ready for storage.

     

    How to Prune Dill

    Pruning dill can extend its life span. Picking it often, like with most herbs and vegetables can encourage growth and will result in strong healthy plants.

    To prune dill, use a sharp pair of scissors or pruning shears to cut off the frond-like leaves at the top of the plant, above the leaf set. 

    The Best Way to Store Dill

    Freshly harvested dill can wilt quite quickly, and as it does so will start to lose its flavor and aroma. If stored properly, however, this should not be a concern. There are various ways that you can store your dill, these are;

    • Store it in the refrigerator’s crisp drawer – it will stay fresh for a few days
    • Put it in water – harvest dill with the stems and place them in a glass of water, and cover the top with a plastic bag. This way, dill leaves will stay fresh for about a week.
    • Freeze it – chop your dill into small pieces and freeze it with some water in ice cube trays. This way, you can store your dill for up to 4 months.
    • Dry it – drying will reduce the flavor of the dill but it can still be used and will store for a very long time. Chop the dill up and dry it until it is crumbly. You can then store it in an airtight container.
    • Stick to hang drying – instead of cutting the dill up before drying it, you can hang the dill leaves together. Tie them up with a string, and hang them upside down in a well-ventilated area. Allow them to air dry until they are crumbling and then store them in an airtight container or ziplock bag.

    Conclusion – How to Harvest Dill Properly and Save It for Later

    There you have it, the best way to harvest dill and save it properly. Dill is such an easy herb to grow and has so many versatile uses from culinary to health to fragrances. Once you start growing it, it can take over your growing environment if it is not properly controlled.

    Knowing how to harvest dill properly and save it for later will help you to enjoy the best out of your harvest. There are so many different ways that you can store dill, depending on how long you want to keep it. You can freeze, refrigerate and even dry this amazing herb for later use, ensuring that you can have a constant supply all year round without having to wait for its ideal growing season.

    Depending on where you live, you may even be able to grow dill all year round depending on the climate. If that is not an option for you, you can just select the dwarf variety of dill that can be grown indoors where you can manipulate temperatures.

    With so many options to choose from when it comes to varieties, growing conditions, and storage of dill, you can definitely find an option to suit you. There is absolutely no reason why you can’t enjoy this amazing and versatile herb.

    Happy gardening!

  • Do Pepper Plants Come Back: Improve Your Harvest

    Do Pepper Plants Come Back: Improve Your Harvest

    Do pepper plants come back every year? Let’s get the answers to that here. Pepper is both classified as a fruit and a vegetable according to botany and culinary definitions.

    It’s a great feeling to plant, grow, nurture, and then begin to harvest your vegetables. What is more tempting is wishing you could keep your healthy vegetables growing year after year. This applies to most pepper farmers, as the plant is a slow grower, which makes it desirable to want it to keep growing.

    It will be nice if pepper plants do grow back every year. If you live in a region where the winter is not so serious, you can definitely give it a thought. The thing is, in most parts of North America and any other place where the winter is really serious, pepper plants won’t be able to survive if they are left outside.

    The best thing is to bring your pepper plants indoors and provide them with the best indoor care, especially if they are the potted indoor variety.

    Keep reading to get more answers to the question: Do pepper plants come back every year? You will also get some tips for keeping your pepper growing year after year.

    Do Pepper Plants Come Back Every Year?

    Normally, all kinds of pepper are grown as annuals by most growers. Pepper is sown, grown, picked, and then thrown into the compost heap when the season ends.

    But the truth of the matter is that pepper plants are perennials, and if you grow them and give them in the appropriate conditions, they can grow every year.

    Pepper Plants Grow Back Every Year

    Ideal Conditions to Help Pepper Grow Back Every Year

    As we mentioned, pepper plants can grow every year if you provide them with good conditions. So, let’s take a look at how to be successful at growing peppers in any type of climatic condition.

    1.    The growing temperature

    Peppers are perennials that can come back in the spring after being dormant in the previous season. This will be surprising to many North American gardeners. Peppers are mostly grown as annuals in the United States and most temperate regions in other parts of the world.

    This is because the plant will die when temperatures dip low, especially during low winter temperatures and shorter days. Peppers can’t survive the cold winter let alone when it’s freezing cold.

    In fact, during a temperature as low as 55 degrees Fahrenheit and below, it will be a waste of time sowing seeds directly into the soil. The seeds won’t even germinate at all. And this will also have you wondering if pepper plants really do grow back every year.

    You can, however, proffer a solution of laying down black plastic mulch or other non-treated mulch to keep the soil temperature warm with a heating pad.

    2.    Soil and fertilizer type

    The ideal soil for growing peppers successfully is slightly acidic soil with pH levels of 6.5-7. Before transplanting seedlings, endeavor to break the soil up. This will help get their roots established.

    Breaking up the soil before transplanting, will also drain well, as well as retain moisture. The best type of fertilizer for peppers is compost. You can as well conduct a soil test before adding fertilizer to the soil.

    Pepper and Herb Fertilizer 11-11-40 Powder 100% Water Soluble

    Do Pepper Plants Grow Back Every Year?
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    For example, if the test shows that the soil is lacking in phosphorus, a fertilizer with phosphorus can be added to the soil. Otherwise, if the reverse is the case, there will be no need to add phosphorus to the soil. Another thing is that you need to be cautious when adding nitrogen to the soil as too much nitrogen can make the plant produce large foliage.

    Read more about Can Compost Worms Survive Winter?

    3.    Availability of sunlight and water

    For a successfully grown pepper plant, full sunlight of about six to eight hours must be available to the plants. Or rather, provide a grow light and make sure the soil temperature is constantly around 80 degrees Fahrenheit if you’re starting your pepper seeds indoors.

    Pepper plants also need constant thorough moisture. This can be achieved by not letting the soil become dry. You can encourage healthy root development by watering deeply. Too much watering may not be required during rainy seasons.

    And if you’re growing your pepper plants in sandy soil, watering will be needed more frequently. This is because, unlike loam or clay, sand cannot retain moisture.

    4.    Prepare your plants before overwintering

    It is better to plant your pepper in pots or portable raised beds if you’re planning to save them for another year.

    You can also re-transplant mature plants that were planted directly in the ground. However, re-transplanting pepper plants may lead to damaging the plants’ roots badly if you’re not careful.

    Prepare Your Plants Before Overwintering

    5.    Move pepper plants indoors

    Peppers can’t tolerate frost; hence the temperature doesn’t need to become freezing cold before they begin to die off. When the temperature constantly dips low to around 55-65 degrees Fahrenheit, move them indoors.

    It doesn’t even have to be inside the house. It could be a secluded spot or covered place that can shield the plants from the chilly temperatures.

    So, when the sunlight your plants usually receive per day doesn’t stay constant at six to eight hours anymore, it indicates that your pepper plants should be moved indoors.

    Also, when you move them indoors during frost, you can use a heating pad under your pot to provide heat.

    Check out When To Harvest Broccolini – The Best Time

    Perennial Pepper Plants: Cold-Hardy Pepper Varieties

    There are cold-resistant pepper varieties, early maturers, and those that can adapt to many conditions.

    So, choosing any of these types of varieties will also help increase your chances of being successful at overwintering and growing back every year. Gardeners in the northern region will love the idea of planting these varieties, especially in regions where they have short growing seasons.

    There are also cold-tolerant varieties that can tolerate both cold and heat. You will also get to enjoy most of the cold-tolerant varieties because they are either mild or sweet.

    So, examples of cold-tolerant pepper varieties are Ratund, Highlander, Chile peppers, Carmen, Ace, and Obriy.

    Do Capsicum Plants Regrow?

    You may be curious as to whether capsicum plants regrow, like other types of peppers. And the simple answer is: yes they do. It just requires both time and cares to ensure their regrowth. Let’s take a closer look at some top tips to ensure they make it through the winter.

    • As soon as you notice the temperatures plummeting, you should place some hay bales around your plants, and ensure the plants are the same height.
    • You’ll also need to remove any peppers from the plants too. At this point, you can cover the plants and bales with a layer of glass.
    • When the frost is predicted, you may also want to cover it with a sheet, for an extra layer of protection.
    • Check that your soil is moist enough, and water when needed.
    • Once the weather begins to warm up, you can remove the glass, and then remove the hay bales once Spring hits. At this point, your capsicum is ready to regrow!

    How Long Will a Pepper Plant Live?

    When it comes to pepper plants, a range of factors can affect how long they’ll live. However, the average life span is around 3-5 years.

    Some factors you’ll need to consider when extending the life of your pepper plant are as follows:

    • Environment. The environment is the main factor. The more consistent the environment, the more likely your pepper plant will have a longer life. In fact, pepper plants have been known to last up to ten years when cared for adequately indoors. Your plants can last many years if grown outdoors too. However, you need to ensure they’re overwintered. If not, they will likely die before the next growing season.
    • Plant species. Some species of pepper will survive longer than others, as it’s just part of their nature. For example, Rocoto and Manzano peppers are both varieties that have a long life expectancy.

    How Tall Do Pepper Plants Grow?

    Unfortunately, there is no set height that your pepper plants will grow, because it all depends on the variety of pepper that you’re growing. For example, some may grow to only 20 inches in height, whereas others can grow up to 6 feet in height. It’s important to research the type of pepper you’re choosing to grow before you plant it.

    How to Overwinter Pepper Plants

    If you’re looking for a quick guide to overwinter pepper plants, then look no further. Let’s take a closer look.

    • Add soil to your new pot; around 1-2 inches.
    • Bring your pepper plant indoors and remove any remaining peppers. You’ll also need to prune the plant.
    • Remove all leaves from your plant, as well as the root ball.
    • Use scissors to trim the roots and then place them in your fresh soil.
    • Water thoroughly and place in a warm area, where the sunlight reaches.
    • Monitor and prune weekly until the growing season comes around.

    When to Overwinter Peppers

    The best time to start overwintering peppers is before the first frost. You should never let the temperature of your pepper plants go below freezing, as they are unlikely to survive.

    Will Pepper Plants Come Back After Winter?

    Yes. As long as extra precautions and care are taken with your pepper plants, they absolutely can come back after winter. And are likely to give you peppers for years to come!

    pepper plants come back after winter

    Conclusion: Do Pepper Plants Come Back?

    To conclude answer your question; do pepper plants come back? Be rest assured that even if pepper plants are grown as annuals in most regions, you can successfully grow them as perennials.

    Do you have any tips or tricks when it comes to ensuring that your pepper plants come back every year? If so, please feel free to let us know in the comments below. And remember, sharing is caring! 

    FAQs

    How do I save pepper plants for next year?

    You can save your pepper for the next year by supplying adequate growing conditions to your pepper plants. Pepper is naturally a perennial crop so it’s possible to grow them for the following year.

    How many years can pepper plants live?

    The duration pepper plant can live is between 1.5 years to 3 years. So, this shows that pepper plants are perennials if you provide them with the right growing conditions to live through another year.

    Will pepper plants come back after winter?

    If you expose your pepper plant to chilly temperatures, they may not survive. So, your pepper plant may not come back after winter. This is why you need to shelter your pepper plant if you want them to overwinter.

  • Bone Meal for Tomatoes: Best Uses & How Much?

    Bone Meal for Tomatoes: Best Uses & How Much?

    How much bone meal per tomato plant? This article will help you determine how much bone meal you should give per tomato plant and how to effectively use bone meal for tomatoes. 

    Tomatoes are heavy feeders and require a lot of nutrients. Bone meal is one of the easiest ways to give an extra boost to your tomato’s health and growth. Let’s take a closer look at using bone meal for tomatoes.

    Bone Meal Nutrition Facts

    Bone meal made from animal bones is rich in phosphorus, calcium, and nitrogen. It can be used as fertilizer for tomato plants. Both fresh and dried bone meals are available on the market; however, make sure that you buy organic bone meals without any chemical fertilizers or fillers added.

    Fresh bone meal contains a high amount of water (moisture) which can cause problems if not removed before storage. The dried form provides more nutrient content than the fresh form because it has fewer moisture contents; thus, making it easy to store for a long time without spoiling.

    One tablespoon of bone meal provides seven grams of phosphorus and nine grams of calcium, which equals 13% of the recommended daily value (RDA) for phosphorus and 18% RDA for calcium.

    Bone meal supplies important nutrients that help encourage health in plants because it contains both phosphorus and calcium. The ratio between these two minerals can affect how each nutrient contributes to your plants’ overall health. Using too much phosphorus can cause growth problems, especially for seedlings. Excessive phosphorus can stunt a plant’s root growth and interfere with how well a plant absorbs other nutrients.

    Bone meal is an organic fertilizer that contains a high amount of calcium, an essential nutrient for promoting strong cell wall development in new blossoms and fruits. Calcium also helps fruit to mature properly after harvest.

    You should use bone meal as soon as possible after opening the package because the moisture from the soil or environment may cause it to become moldy or change color over time.

    Is Bone Meal Good for Tomatoes?

    Bone meal is good for tomato plants. It contains a high amount of calcium that helps in fruit formation. It contains nitrogen and phosphorus which are required by plants to produce chlorophyll while the growing stage and calcium during the fruiting stage.

    Please note: you can add bone meal directly to the soil without any preparation or cooking process. However, if you want it cooked before adding it to the soil, you can add it to the compost because raw bone meal contains a high amount of ammonia that can burn roots once mixed with soil.

    Burpee Bone Meal Fertilizer | Add to Potting Soil

    How Much Bone Meal Per Tomato Plant?
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    How Much Bone Meal for Tomatoes? 

    Now that we know the benefits of this organic fertilizer to tomatoes, how much bone meal per tomato plant?

    Use 3 pounds of fresh or 1 pound of dried bone meals for 100 square feet of garden space. For example, how much bone meal per 10 tomato plants? You will need 1/2 pound of bone meal per tomato plant.

    Can You Add Too Much Bone Meal?

    It is possible to add too much bone meal and hurt your crops. Do not add too much bone meal to the soil because it will cause phytotoxicity in tomato plants. Excess amounts of nitrogen contained in it can damage leaves and slow down fruit formation or growth.

    You should avoid adding more than 0.25% nitrogen level to the soil because even if it contains plenty of phosphorus, calcium, magnesium, zinc, copper, sulfur, and other nutrients, an excess amount of nitrogen will burn the roots after absorption by the soil.

    Bone Meal for Tomatoes Benefits 

    Ways to use bone meal for tomato plants:

    • To boost the health of tomato plants, you can give it every week during the first couple of months of growth. You can also use it as transplanting fertilizer or seedling fertilizers at half the rate of how much you would give to mature plants later on. Bone meal works well for this purpose because it is rich in phosphorus which helps with root formation and healthier stem structure.
    Bone Meal Tomatoes Benefits
    • Bone meal gives a calcium source that is beneficial for both humans and soil microbes. Calcium accelerates the decomposition speed of dead materials, thus increasing nutrient availability to growing tomatoes faster than compost alone. Organic matter content also improves due to the presence of calcium in bone meal.

    Can You Add Bone Meal After Planting?

    Bone meal can be added after planting tomatoes if it is dry. However, do not add bone meal to the soil until you are ready to transplant seedlings into them because tomato plants cannot grow properly when nitrogen levels are too high. Especially for seeds that have just emerged, adding too much bone meal will result in yellow leaves or stunted growth.

    If you want to use bone meal for tomatoes as fertilizer, it is better to mix organic fertilizers with soil before planting tomatoes.

    Bone meal can be used with other organic fertilizers. For example, blood meal, cottonseed meal, and kelp extracts. This combination will provide essential nutrients needed by growing tomatoes. If bone meal is added directly into the garden or container without mixing with other ingredients first, soil microbes may not be able to absorb them properly which can lead to loss of nutrients in time.

    Bone meal works best when mixed with compost piles because they allow microbes to break down the materials slowly over time.

    You should always water your tomato plants after adding any kind of fertilizers into the soil because soluble nitrogen releases quickly into roots which affects how well it absorbs water. Watering your plants first will allow them to take up the nutrients gradually without getting too much nitrogen.

    Can You Add Bone Meal After Planting

    Using Sugar, Epsom Salt, and Bone Meal for Tomatoes

    You may be wondering how else you can use bone meal for your tomatoes. I’ve found that the use of bone meal, along with sugar and Epsom salt works very well. These three are a good trio because the sugar adds sweetness to your tomatoes, the Epsom salts add both sulfur and magnesium and the bone meal adds phosphorus.

    To plant your tomatoes, you’ll need to make a hole larger than you usually would for your tomatoes. Then you’ll need to add a cup of bone meal and a cup of sugar, along with a reasonable amount of mulch. Mix them and place them in your hole, evenly distributing them in the soil.

    Carefully place your tomato plant into the soil; be sure to bury it reasonably deep. Once planted, add around a cup of Epsom salts on top and mix them into the top of your soil using your hands. Finally, water your tomato plants with a good amount of water – and your tomatoes are ready to go.

    Disadvantages of Bone Meal

    We’ve already looked at the benefits of using bone meal for your tomato plants, but you may be wondering if there are any disadvantages. While there aren’t too many negatives, there are a few that you may want to be aware of. Let’s take a closer look.

    You can only use bone meal in soils below 7 on the pH scale. This may not be ideal. However, a good alternative is rock phosphate, which we’ll be taking a look at later in this article.

    If you’re looking for a quick fix, then this probably isn’t the best choice for you, as it’s a fertilizing choice that releases slowly.

    If used too much, overfertilization can occur. If this happens, problems may arise for your tomato plants such as yellowing leaves. It can also lead to deficiencies in other nutrients, like zinc and iron.

    If not used correctly, the smell can attract unwanted wildlife. However, as long as it’s adequately mixed in, this should not be a problem.

    Bone meal is only a good source of phosphorus, so you’ll need to use other fertilizers too, to ensure your tomato plants are receiving all of the nutrients they need.

    Rock Phosphate vs Bone Meal

    Earlier, we mentioned rock phosphate, which is a great alternative to bone meal, if you’d prefer. However, there are quite a few differences between the two. Let’s take an in-depth look at the two.

    They’re similar in that they both contain phosphorus. However, that is where the similarities start and end. The differences between the two are that for the short supply of phosphorus, bone meal is best, whereas, for a long-term supply, phosphorus is best, as it’s slower.

    Another main difference between the two is the price. Bone meal starts at around $13 per lb, whereas rock phosphate starts at around $30 per lb. So if you’re looking for a more affordable option, it’s best to use bone meal.

    Rock phosphate works best on flowers and other leafy plants, whereas bone meal works best on rooted plants, such as carrots and onions. However, you can choose to use both together, if you’d prefer – and reap the benefits of both.

    Rock Phosphate vs meal bone

    Final Thoughts: Bone Meal for Tomatoes

    Bone meal for tomatoes is beneficial in most cases. Adding too much nitrogen to the soil will hurt plants, although you can add it if your plants are mature enough. You should only use bone meal after preparing the soil with compost or manure and not mix it directly into planting holes.

    It s evident that bone meal provides your tomatoes with plenty of benefits like boosting up the nutrient content of the soil, by adding calcium source which creates healthier stem structure and roots.

    FAQs

    How should you mix bone meals for best results?

    You should not mix it directly with planting holes because adding too much phosphorus can affect how healthy tomatoes grow even if they are combined with other organic fertilizers. Therefore, it is better to prepare compost piles or manure before mixing into the soil or using as transplant fertilizer after seeds have germinated and grown some roots.  

    When should I start fertilizing my tomato plants?

    Bone meal should be added to the soil when the first set of tomatoes starts growing. Wait until your plant is about 6 – 8 inches tall before adding bone meal fertilizer. If you add it too early, it will affect how healthy or how tall they grow. 

  • Disease Resistant Tomatoes: Top List of Varieties

    Disease Resistant Tomatoes: Top List of Varieties

    Tomato plants can be prone to a bunch of unimaginable problems or diseases capable of taking a toll on the entire crop. The good news is that you can avoid the various problems or diseases that tomato plants tend to be susceptible to. This is why we will be looking into disease resistant tomatoes.

    There are over 60 different diseases tomato plants are inclined to catch. With so many unpleasant diseases tomatoes tend to be prone to, it is only right you select the best varieties that can be resistant to most of these various tomato-related diseases.

    Diseases-resistant tomatoes have been selected and bred for years to resist some common diseases they tend to be vulnerable to. So, let’s look into the list of disease-resistant tomatoes we can go for when planning on growing our juicy tomatoes.

    Selecting Disease Resistant Tomatoes

    Even though you can take some measures to manage these diseases such as crop rotations, drip irrigation, sterilization of garden tools, and so on, all these will only control these issues to a limited range. The key to decreasing the issue of tomato disease relies mainly on choosing disease-resistant tomatoes. 

    The selection of disease-resistant tomatoes has helped a lot in reducing the risk of tomatoes being vulnerable to different diseases. However, this does not guarantee the total immunity of tomatoes to all kinds of diseases. Of all these diseases resistant varieties, no single tomato variety resistant to all diseases has been developed yet. For this reason, when choosing tomato disease-resistant varieties, we recommend you select the ones applicable to your garden.

    Selecting Disease Resistant Tomatoes

    For instance, a particular tomato breed may thrive or flourish in your garden. On the other hand, this same tomato variety may end up catching a tomato-related disease from another gardener two states away. Therefore, if verticillium wilt or tobacco mosaic virus was once a problem in your garden region in the past years, it is only ideal to choose the tomato variety resistant to this disease.

    Disease Resistant Tomatoes 

    Each variety of tomato resistance is mainly resistant to some or most tomato diseases. However, they aren’t resistant to all types of tomato-related diseases.

    When you purchase your disease-resistant tomato seeds varieties, the seed packets or seed labeling often has some abbreviations. These abbreviations or letters mark the disease-resistant variety for that specific tomato breed. Therefore, it’s important to read these abbreviations right so you can know which varieties you are purchasing.

    Understanding codes for disease resistant tomatoes 

    Here is a list of some of the most common disease-resistant tomato variety codes you may find and their meaning:

    1. AB – Alternarium Blight
    2. EB – Early Blight
    3. F – Fusarium wilt
    4. FF – Fusarium races 1 and 2
    5. FFF – Fusarium races 1, 2, and 3
    6. N – Nematode
    7. PM – Powdery Mildew
    8. T or TMV –Tobacco Mosaic Virus
    9. TSWV – Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus
    10. V – Verticillium wilt

    Burpee ‘Mountain Magic’ Hybrid | Red Cocktail & Salad Tomato | Disease Resistant | 12 Seeds

    614VpzB6KTL. AC SL1200
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    Apart from these codes, other codes such as HR or IR may as well be written next to the codes. HR means High Resistance and IR means Intermediate Resistance.

    Multiple letters seen in a tomato disease-resistant variety name means the tomato is resistant to more than one disease.

    • So now that we have an idea of some codes you may come across, let’s look at an example. If you come across a seed labeled VFNT, it simply means that the seed has been bred to resist verticillium wilt, fusarium wilt, nematode, and tobacco mosaic virus.

    In all this, keep in mind that the label you find on the seed package is simply an indicator. The performance of a specific tomato variety will depend on various factors such as rainfall, soil content, environment, and plant care.

    Choosing the Right Tomato Breed for Your Garden

    A type of tomato variety may thrive well in your garden and this same variety may not do well for someone else in another state.

    This is majorly due to different climates and different soil that produce different patterns for the same tomato variety. Even those regions with slight variations in climate (temperature, rainfall, and air quality) can still cause the same tomato variety to flourish differently for different regions.

    For instance, Septoria leaf spot and early blight are tomato-related diseases that tend to progress or thrive in humid regions such as the eastern United States. Therefore, if you live in these regions, it would be wise to select tomato varieties that are resistant to early blight and Septoria leaf spots.

    Guidelines for Choosing Tomato Breed

    The guidelines below will assist you further on how to find out and select which tomato variety best suits your region:

    1. Recognize the vulnerability your region tends to face – The first important step is to discern which tomato diseases are common in your region. You can do some findings by asking your local nursery owner or having a chat with your local gardeners. You can also put a call through to your local extension office to know which tomato diseases are frequently recorded by local gardeners.

    1. Understand resistant code on the seed package – It’s also important you learn what codes are written on the seed package. We’ve given you some tips above to understand codes you may find on the seed package.

    2. Choose the best that suits your region – At the end of it all, ensure you choose the best tomato variety that suits your region.

    Which Tomato Breed is the Hardiest?

    Here is a list of some of the best tomato varieties resistant you can go for:

    • Bush big boy
    • Bush early girl
    • Sweet tangerine
    • Fourth of July
    • Big beef
    • Celebrity
    • Umamin
    • Super tasty
    • Big daddy
    • Summer girl
    Choose The Best That Suits Your Region

    All of these varieties will resist the most common tomato diseases. That includes nematode, verticillium, fusarium, and tobacco mosaic virus.

    Additional Say on Disease Resistant Tomatoes

    Knowing a great list of tomato-resistant varieties isn’t just enough. Even after you’ve purchased a hardy tomato breed that can sufficiently avoid these diseases, you need to also imbibe some measures so your plant can flourish.

    Here are some preventive measures to take:

    • Crop rotation.
    • If you’ve worked on any diseased plant, ensure you disinfect your gardening tools.
    • Water at the base of the plant.
    • Maintain moisture conditions and avoid wet and humid conditions that may entertain diseases.
    • Mulch your soil.

    Tomato Seeds Resistant to Blight

    Before we look at varieties that are resistant to blight, we must first identify what blight is. You may know blight better as late blight, tomato blight, or potato blight. It unfortunately can cause catastrophic problems for your tomatoes. It’s a fungal disease that will quickly lead tomatoes to rot and die. The more humid the environment, the more likely this is to happen.

    Some of the most common seeds resistant to blight are as follows:

    • Blush beefsteak F1. It’s sweet and juicy, which is unusual for a beefsteak tomato. This tomato usually fruits between July and October, and the best thing about it is that it’s incredibly resistant to blight.
    • Crimson cherry F1. A sweet but tangy tomato that’s small in size. It’s best at preventing late and early blight. It has an outstanding yield and will continue to fruit until the first frost begins.
    • Crimson plum F1. If you’re looking to make an incredible Bolognese or ragu, this is the tomato choice for you. It doesn’t contain many seeds and has a rich flavor. This tomato usually fruits between July and October.
    • Crimson crush F1. Flavorful and fantastic tasting. Even if other plants have blight, the Crimson Crush is hardy enough to not be affected.

    Fusarium Wilt Resistant Tomato Varieties

    If you’re looking for tomato varieties that are resistant to fusarium wilt, then look no further! You should try one of the following options:

    • Porterhouse
    • Sungold
    • Yellow Pear
    • Big Daddy
    • Rutgers
    • Summer Girl
    • Super Sauce

    Bacterial Wilt Resistant Tomato Varieties

    If you’re looking for tomato varieties that are resistant to bacterial wilt, then look no further! You should try one of the following options:

    • Tropic Bay
    • Venus
    • Neptune
    • Saturn
    • Kewalo

    Tomato varieties

    Disease Resistant Heirloom Tomatoes

    If you’re looking for heirloom tomato varieties that are disease resistant, there are many to choose from. Let’s take a closer look at some of the best.

    • Cherokee Purple: resistant to bacterial speck, fusarium wilt 1, 2, and 3, tomato spotted wilt virus, verticillium wilt, and root-knot nematode
    • Black Velvet F1: disorder resistant
    • Caiman F1: resistant to fusarium wilt 1 and 2, tobacco mosaic virus, verticillium wilt, tomato spotted wilt virus, tomato leaf mold, and root-knot nematode
    • Fargo Yellow Pear: disorder resistant
    • Delicious: disorder resistant
    • Damsel F1: resistant to root-knot nematode, late blight, and verticillium wilt
    • Aosta Valley: resistant to early and late blight
    • Green Zebra: resistant to Septoria leaf spot and late blight
    • Legend: resistant to late blight
    • Chocolate Sprinkles: resistant to fusarium wilt 1, fusarium crown rot, tobacco mosaic virus, and root-knot nematode
    • Garden Peach: resistant to late blight
    • Cauralina F1: resistant to fusarium wilt, fusarium crown root, and tomato mosaic virus
    • Italian Heirloom: resistant to late blight
    • Marglobe: resistant to fusarium wilt 1 and 2
    • Chiapas: resistant to early and late blight, and Septoria leaf spot
    • Mt. Gold: resistant to fusarium wilt 1 and 2
    • Grandma’s Pick F1: resistant to verticillium wilt, root-knot nematode, and fusarium wilt 1
    • New Yorker: resistant to verticillium wilt
    • Mt. Rouge: resistant to root-knot nematode and late blight
    • Marbonne F1: resistant to tomato mosaic virus and fusarium wilt

    Conclusion

    I hope this post has helped you to identify the best disease-resistant tomatoes, as well as how best to find the right variety for you. It’s getting easier and easier to grow disease-resistant tomatoes; just be sure to check the abbreviations on any tomato seeds that you buy. Do you have any tips or tricks when it comes to disease-resistant tomatoes? If so, please feel free to let us know in the comments below. And remember, sharing is caring!

    FAQs

    Which tomato variety is resistant to blight?

    Mountain Magic F1 (Medium) is resistant to blight.

    If you see symptoms of bacterial blight on your tomato plants, remove them by cutting the stems at the base of the plant. Make sure to wash your hands after removing the infected parts so you don’t spread the bacteria around. If you see the bacteria on the leaves, you can spray them with a mixture of water and bleach to kill the bacteria.

    Which tomato variety is resistant to bacterial wilt?

    The best known varieties are “Green Zebras” and “Roma”. There are also a number of hybrids that have been bred for this resistance.

    If you see any signs of Verticillium wilt, you should remove the plants from the soil as soon as possible to prevent further damage. If you are unable to remove the plants from the ground, you can treat the soil with a fungicide such as copper or sulfur to prevent the disease from spreading.

    Are cherry tomatoes disease resistant?

    Cherry tomatoes are a great choice for any gardener looking to add a little variety to their vegetable garden. Liike most other types of tomatoes, cherry tomatoes are susceptible to various diseases.

    However, they are resistant to a wide variety of diseases, and in some cases the resistance is due to the plant’s own immune system.

    Are heirloom tomatoes disease-resistant?

    Heirloom tomatoes are not resistant to the major diseases that affect tomato crops, but they can be used as a food source when combined with other plants and insects that provide natural pest control. The best way to prevent diseases is by growing tomatoes in a healthy garden environment that includes annuals and perennials, mulching, regular watering and harvesting regularly.

    How do you know if bacteria is wilting of tomatoes?

    The first thing to check is whether or not the plant has any signs of disease.
    There are a number of ways to tell. One of the most reliable is the color of the tomato. If it’s dark green, it’s probably ok. If it’s light green, it may be starting to decay. If it’s yellow or brown, it’s most likely too far gone. Another way is to press your thumb on the stem of the tomato and see how it feels. If it’s waxy, it’s ok. If it’s dry and hard, it’s dead.
    You can look at the underside of the leaves. If the leaves have turned yellow, this is a sign of bacterial wilt.

    What is the hardiest tomato plant?

    A tomato plant can be grown in almost any location, but it’s important to choose a site that offers the proper amount of sunlight. Tomatoes are a warm-weather crop, so they need lots of sun. They also like plenty of water, so make sure that you water regularly and give the leaves a good soaking once or twice a week. If you have a big enough garden space, tomatoes are the perfect addition to any vegetable garden.
    There are many varieties of tomatoes, and many are very different in hardiness. We have found that the most hardy tomato is

  • Do Tomato Hornworms Bite: Best Ways to Control

    Do Tomato Hornworms Bite: Best Ways to Control

    Tomato worms are one common pest that bothers tomato plants and they can ruin your plants. They may look fierce and dangerous, but do tomato hornworms bite?

    The huge green tomato worm can grow up to 4 or 5 inches long and they are one of the longest types of caterpillar. There is nothing more devastating than finding tomato worms in your garden feeding on your sweet tomato fruits.

    The fact that the tomato worm has a stinger-like horn shape, some may be scared of them. So, if you’ve got tomato worms in your garden and you’re wondering if they bite then you should read on to know the answer to this. We will also discuss what you can do to get rid of these troubling worms.

    What Are Tomato Worms?

    Tomato worms, also known as hornworms are huge caterpillars that have a tail that looks like a horn. They love to chew on tomatoes, meaning tomato is their favorite food. They not only enjoy fruits, but they can also feed on plant leaves as well as their stems. These worms will eat plant leaves and can render your plant leafless.

    Tomato worms will as well feast on other plant’s fruits such as eggplant, pepper, potato, and tobacco plants.

    Do Tomato Hornworms Bite?

    Even though these worms may look scary and savage, they are not stingers. Therefore tomato worms do not bite. They are harmless to humans and you can even pick them up off your plants anytime you sight them.

    What Are Tomato Worms

    Where Do Tomato Worms Come From?

    Tomato worms come from eggs laid by the adult moth. These moths are huge heavy-bodied insects that have narrow front wings. They are gray-brown and can have yellow spots on their abdomen.

    Life cycle

    The tomato worm life cycle begins as eggs are laid by the adult moths. These eggs are laid by the female after mating around summer and the eggs are laid on the host such as tomato, pepper, eggplant, etc. The eggs are oval and smooth with a light green color.

    Next, the eggs hatch into caterpillars and the caterpillars are the worms that begin to feed and grow. The caterpillars can feed up until late summer or early fall.

    Once they begin to feed and grow, in about 3 to 4 weeks, they become matured green caterpillars. This matured caterpillar will drop from the plants they are feeding into the soil and burrow into the soil. In the soil, they will change or transform into pupae. The pupae will stay in the soil and thrive through winter.

    After surviving through winter, the pupae will emerge as adult moths during spring. Then the moths start another generation around mid-summer by depositing their eggs on their host plant.

    Identifying Caterpillar on Tomato Plant

    The tomato worm caterpillars may be hard to notice because they are green and can blend with your green plants. But once you notice any caterpillar of about 4 to 5 inches of green color and horn-like shape on your plant, then that’s a sign of tomato worm infestation. You need to act fast. If you delay any longer, they will continue to spread causing even bigger problems.

    They are capable of devouring your plant leaves and causing serious damage a night. Once they grow bigger and older, they consume more and more. Those fully matured tomato caterpillars can consume a lot at that stage.

    So, because of their green camouflaging color, you may not notice them on time. However, you should look closely and also look for droppings and follow the trail.

    You can as well identify these worms with black lights. Once it gets dark, scrutinize your plant with the black lights. Tomato worms usually come out in the dark to feed and they will glow in the dark.

    Let’s take a look at some control measures we can take to mitigate the situation.

    Controlling Tomato Worms

    There are various methods of getting rid of tomato worms and they include:

    • Handpicking

    Tomato worms will not bite you so you can simply handpick them when you notice them in your garden. This process may take a while, but it’s totally worth it as you will be saving your plants.

    After handpicking them, you can simply drop them in hot soapy water to kill them. You can as well feed them to your chicken or any birds if you raise them.

    • Spray the plant with soap and water

    Another natural way to get rid of these worms is to spray them with liquid dish soap mixed with water. Spray your entire plant and worms until they are all covered. Doing this should eliminate them without causing any havoc to your plants.

    • Bacillus Thuringiensis (BT)

    If the two natural methods we mentioned above don’t work, you can go for natural pesticides. It is safe to use on your plant and also safe for humans. Bacillus thuringiensis is a natural bacteria found in soil. The worm consumes these bacteria and its digestive system becomes paralyzed and it will eventually die.

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    • Beneficial insects

    Beneficial insects can as well be used to control tomato worms. However, they can only work for a small population. Examples of these beneficial insects are ladybugs, lacewings, paper wasps, and so on. You can obtain these beneficial insects online or from your local garden stores.

    • Chemical insecticides

    Chemical insecticides can be used to control these worms. However, they may not be safe for your organic garden. Notwithstanding, there are good options such as sevin insecticides which are non-systematic. This means they will not penetrate plant tissues and you can simply wash them off after their job is done.

    Signs of Tomato Worms Infestation

    When you begin to notice your plant leaves having holes or becoming wilted, then you need to have a close inspection of your plant.

    You may also notice droppings of these worms on your tomato leaves or the ground. Also, if there are any green caterpillars around your plants, that may be a sign of tomato worm infestation.

    Signs Of Tomato Worms Infestation

    Are Tomato Worms Poisonous?

    Now that we know that tomato worms do not bite humans, you may be wondering if they are poisonous. You can safely touch tomato hornworms without being concerned about them biting, stinging, or being poisonous. However, you should never ingest these worms. If they are ingested, they may be toxic as tomatoes are part of the nightshade family and these worms remove the toxins from the plant. It’s important to seek medical advice if this happens.

    What is the Best Tomato Worm Killer?

    When killing tomato hornworms, it’s best to use a low-risk pesticide. There are many low-risk pesticides you can use. But some of my personal favorites are Spinosad, insecticidal soap, or Bacillus thuringiensis. Let’s take a closer look at all three.

    • Spinosad. It’s derived from a natural microorganism. Can kill tomato hornworms through contact, or ingestion. However, ingestion is the most effective. You’ll notice the effects within one to two weeks. Be sure you keep a watchful eye on it until it’s dried, as it can be harmful to bees.
    • Insecticidal soap. This doesn’t need to be ingested; contact is enough, but it must be direct. It’s effective against hornworms and what’s great about this is that it isn’t harmful to good insects.
    • Bacillus Thuringiensis. A bacteria that derive from the soil. Contact is not enough for this pesticide, it must be consumed by the tomato hornworms. The younger the caterpillars, the more effective this method will be. This method is ideal if you’re looking to protect bees and insects.

    Can a Tomato Hornworm Sting?

    If you take a close look at the tomato hornworm, they are quite terrifying. They look as though they could be dangerous, but as well as not being poisonous, and not being able to bite, they also can not sting you. Apart from being harmful to your garden, they can’t cause any damage to humans whatsoever! They’re nowhere near as scary as they first appear.

    Can Bearded Dragons Eat Hornworms?

    Bearded dragons have a very versatile diet, and you may be wondering if you can feed them hornworms. And the answer is, absolutely. However, it’s best to buy the hornworms from a reputable store. Hornworms are used as food for many reptiles besides bearded dragons, such as geckos and chameleons.

    Hornworms are easy for your bearded dragons to digest, as well as being a great source of calcium and hydration.Where Do Tomato Worms Come From

    Are Tomato Hornworms Poisonous to Dogs?

    We’ve mentioned that tomato hornworms can cause problems if ingested by humans, and the same can be said if ingested by your pets. Tomato hornworms can be poisonous to your dogs, so it’s important to seek veterinary advice if you think your dog has swallowed any.

    Conclusion: Do Tomato Hornworms Bite?

    Tomato worms may look fierce and dangerous but they do not bite humans. However, the damage they will do to your plants can be very serious. Ensure you monitor your plants closely, especially their favorite plants which are tomato, pepper, eggplants, and tobacco plants.

    I hope this post has helped to answer the question: “do tomato hornworms bite?” and given you an idea of how to prevent and control them if you do manage to get an infestation. While they can be a nuisance to your garden, it’s a super easy problem to resolve. Do you have any tips and tricks when it comes to removing hornworms? If so, please feel free to let us know in the comments below. And remember, sharing is caring!

    FAQs

    Do hornworms bite humans?

    Hornworms are not harmful to humans. However, they can cause damage to plants. The eggs and larvae are very destructive. They eat grass, soil, and roots. They can also kill plants.

    A hornworm may bite if it feels threatened or cornered. They also may bite if they are hungry. If they are hungry, they may be trying to feed on the roots of a plant.

    The most common cause of a hornworm bite is in the spring. The adults are out looking for food and the young ones are out looking for mates.

    Are green hornworms poisonous?

    Some people think that the green hornworm is poisonous because it tastes bad, and they won’t eat it. Others think that the green hornworm is poisonous because it has a very hard exoskeleton which doesn’t easily break down in the stomach.
    But, they are not.

    Where do tomato hornworms go during the day?

    Tomato hornworm caterpillars are active during the day, and they may be feeding on leaves or other parts of plants. If you find a large number of them, try to see where they are hiding. Look for places where they might have access to foliage and leaves. You can also check under shrubs and trees for signs of feeding. Hornworms will leave a silken web on their food source. You can also look for frass, or insect droppings.

    Tomato hornworms (Manduca sexta) are large, dark-colored caterpillars with a horn on their head and antennae. They feed on the leaves of tomatoes and other nightshade plants like eggplant and peppers. Hornworm larvae chew holes in plant leaves to feed on sap and then pupate. When they emerge as adults, they’ll feed on foliage until they reach maturity.

    How do you prevent tomato worms?

    Tomato worms are not a problem for everyone. I can’t say that I have ever had problems with them, but when I did, I didn’t know what to do about it. So I want to share some tips on how to get rid of tomato worms in your garden. Tomato Worms – What are they? A common pest for tomatoes, the tomato worm is a small insect, which can be up to 2 inches long.
    They are most often seen in the garden when the temperatures are warm and humid. You may see them crawling around the base of plants, or laying eggs in the soil. How do you get rid of them? The best way to prevent tomato worm damage is to pick off any infested leaves, and destroy the eggs in the soil. Another good method is to grow plants in containers, so that you can take them out of the garden if they begin to appear. If you do need to control these pests, the easiest solution is to use a systemic pesticide. These products work by killing the pest from the roots down, which will help reduce any future problems. This is one of the best ways to prevent tomato worms, and many other plant pests.