Author: Dr. Nyiko C. Mabasa

Aglaonema Care Guide: How to Grow Chinese Evergreen
Aglaonema, the Chinese evergreen is a low-maintenance and versatile houseplant that comes in wide varieties. This plant is great for adding a bit of color to any working or residential area if well taken care of. In this article, we will give you the best Aglaonema care guide that will help you to get the best out of these stunning plants.

Some of the qualities that make Aglaonema such a popular and ideal houseplant include its unique, lush, and beautiful foliage. With these qualities, there is no reason why you would not consider having this plant in your living or working space. Another great advantage of this plant is that it adapts really well to different environmental conditions. If you want to know what these conditions are and how best to get your Chinese evergreen to thrive in them, keep reading.

Aglaonema

Agloanema, commonly known as the Chinese evergreen is a plant that is Native to the forest areas of Asia. Because this plant grows under canopies of taller plants where it is shielded from direct sunlight, it has adapted to low light conditions. This is one of the qualities that makes it such a good indoor plant.

When planted indoors, they grow to sizes of 12-24 inches in height. They can be almost as wide as they are long and have lance-shaped leaves. Because it starts small and grows quite slowly, you can keep them on your desks for anywhere between 12-18 months before it gets too big.

Few plants are as easy or easier to care for as the Chinese evergreen. Although it is adapted to low light conditions due to its natural habitat, it can also tolerate fluorescent lighting indoors if provided with it.

There are hundreds of different varieties of Aglaonemas and they have different environmental requirements to thrive. It is therefore essential to know the particular variety of the one you have so you can give it just the right growing environments it requires.

Aglaonemas Plant Care

As with all other plants, there are ideal environmental conditions you need to maintain to keep them happy. We will discuss these below.

Temperature

Aglaonema prefers temperatures between 65-75°F degrees Fahrenheit to thrive. They can tolerate temperatures of about 10 degrees Fahrenheit outside this range without suffering any serious damage. Feed your Aglaonema monthly during the spring and summer, when the temperatures are within this range.

Light exposure

Due to the natural habitat of this plant, it prefers bright but indirect sunlight. Never expose it to full sun as it may cause leaf burn and may ultimately kill the plant.

If you keep the plant indoors, artificial or fluorescent light will be enough to keep it alive and growing.

The light tolerance levels vary between Aglaonema varieties. The darker green varieties of this plant can tolerate low light intensities. The ones with lighter-colored leaves, however, prefer bright and indirect light. An example of these light-leafed varieties is the Aglaonema Osaka.

In general, the more colorful varieties of the plant, such as those with pinks, reds, and peaches need more light to maintain their vibrancy.

Newer cultivars of Aglaonema have bright colors such as red and pink. These normally do not do well in low-light conditions. They can, however, survive in such conditions. But if you notice that they are losing their color, simply move them to an area with more light and you should notice their color should start to come back.

Humidity

Chinese evergreen plants prefer more humidity than most homes and indoor spaces can provide. This means that you should provide them with supplemental humidity. You can boost humidity levels in their environment by putting the plant in a pebble tray, using a humidifier, or putting the plants in a group with other plants.

You can also try misting your plants once to a few times each week. This will only make a minor difference in terms of improving humidity levels. It does however offer the potential benefit of getting rid of pests that may be trying to infest your plant.

Soil moisture and watering

Chinese evergreen plants like to stay moist but not soaking wet. When you water the plant, make sure that the water drains completely each time so that it does not get waterlogged. Only water if the first two inches of the soil are dry.

Overwatering can cause the plant leaves to turn yellow, and the roots of the plant to rot. Another sign of overwatering may be the yellowing of the tanks, as well as mushy stalks and leaves.

Repotting

To repot your plants, use good soil with peat and pine bark blended. Never use peat moss directly or by itself as it colds too much water and will not allow the roots of your plant to dry out as needed.

Repot Chinese evergreens once every 12-18 months. Use the same vessel with new soil, and trim away some of the roots and leaves. Repotting should be done in the spring or summer months only, this is when they are actively growing and have the best chance of surviving the repot.

If you are repotting a larger plant, do it every 18-24 months. Use a new pot that is about 2-4″ larger than the current one. This will give room for the plant to grow.

Fertilizing

Any good, balanced houseplant fertilizer will work for Aglaonema. Feed your Aglaonema monthly during the spring and summer while they are actively growing. Reduce the amount of fertilizer you give them in the fall and completely stop feeding in the winter months as the plants enter dormancy.

Providing fertilizer to the plants in the winter when they do not need the nutrients for growth can lead to fertilizer buildup in the soil, which will burn the roots over time.

Rotate your plant

Rotate your Chinese evergreens from time to time so that they get all sides exposed to sunlight so the plant can grow evenly.

Inspect your plants for pests

When taking care of your plants, and dusting the leaves, make sure that you inspect especially the underside of the plant to check for any pests that need to be removed before they cause any damage to the plant.

How to Grow Aglaonema

Aglaonema are very low-maintenance plants that are great for even the novice gardener or plant parent. Here are some points on how to grow Chinese evergreens.

1: Use well-draining soil to grow your plants

They do really well in well-draining soils as they do not like to have their roots permanently submerged in water. You can add some perlite to the potting soil if you need better drainage.

2: Provide them with indirect, bright light

Never expose your Chinese evergreens to direct sunlight as it may burn the leaves.

3: Let the soil dry between waterings

This will give the plant roots room to breathe so the plant can grow efficiently. Water only when the top 2 inches of the soil has dried.

4: Repot

Repot the plant as required.

5: Ideal temperature

Maintain ideal temperatures of between 65-75°F degrees Fahrenheit, and high humidity for your plant to thrive.

6: Fertilize the right time

Fertilize your plants in the spring and summer months and never in the winter.

Aglaonema care indoors is the same as outdoors. The environmental conditions that you should provide the plants are the same regardless of where they are planted. If they are indoors, however, it is easier to get the environmental conditions right as you can manipulate them.

Types of Aglaonema

There are many different varieties of Aglaonema that you can cultivate. In the past, there were only green and cream varieties available. However, there are many different Aglaonema shades that you can find. There are more colorful Aglaonema in colors such as pink, red, and peach. Here are five of the most common varieties;
- Aglaonema Commutatum (Emerald Beauty) – also known as the Maria. It is one of the older varieties and has dark green leaves with light green stripes.
- Aglaonema (Sparkling Sarah) – has pink stems and midribs. It also has pink mottling on the green leaves of the plant.
- Ruby Red – The leaves of this Chinese evergreen variety are a beautiful bright red and have stems with a shade of pink.
- Aglaonema Commutatum (Silver Bay) – The leaves of this variety have a light silver leaf variegation.
- Siam Aurora Red – has ed stems and midribs. The leaves also have a red frame.
Problems Associated With Chinese Evergreen Plants

While these plants are some of the easiest to take care of, they can have their fair share of issues that you should be aware of in case you ever have to deal with them.

The number one issue is susceptibility to pest infestations. Chinese evergreen plans are susceptible to spider mites, mealybugs, and scale. They get infested most of the time because they are not healthy and stressed. Opportunistic bigs use this window to destroy them.

Keeping your plants in their best health will help you to avoid this. You can also use this leaf wellness spray to prevent infestations.

Yellowing of leaves is another common occurrence. This usually signals that your plants are stressed. Investigate which of their environmental conditions are not ideal and remedy it as soon as possible. Your plants should return to good health in no time.

Dropping leaves or leaf curls are other indicators of stress on plants. This can be a consequence of leaf burn from direct sunlight. If you notice this, move your plants away from sunlight.

Unfortunately, Chinese evergreen plants are toxic to dogs, cats, and horses. If you have any pets in your house, you will need to keep them out of their reach.

Conclusion – Aglaonema Care Guide: How to Grow Chinese Evergreen

Aglaonema are such low-maintenance plants that anyone can keep them in their home or office. So whether you are a novice or an experienced hardener, these plants can be a great addition to your space.

We hope that you found this Aglaonema care guide useful and that you will be well on your way to growing and maintaining these beautiful plants.

The most important thing to do is provide them with the kind of environmental conditions that mimic their natural habitat. These are; high humidity, moderate temperatures, and indirect bright light.

Happy growing!
Dr. Nyiko C. Mabasa
An aquaculture specialist and freelance writer. Passionate about anything sustainable living, such as growing your own food, and if you can do it in conjunction with fish farming, even better! I currently work as an aquaculture researcher where I can expand and share my knowledge and skills on aquaculture, crop farming and adding value to wastewater by using it to grow food products. I enjoy reading and learning as much as possible, and writing is another avenue for me to share the knowledge I gain with others. I want my writing to inspire people to try their hand at gardening, whether indoors or outdoors. You can even start by keeping a few houseplants indoors to help you gain a bit of confidence if you need to.
May 16, 2023
Aphids on Tomato Plants: How to Naturally Get Rid of Them

If you have ever grown tomatoes in your garden, you will know that tomatoes are very susceptible to aphid infestations. These little critters can cause incredible damage to your crop if you do not take care of them early. In this article, we will be talking about aphids on tomato plants: How to naturally get rid of them.

If you have kept tomatoes for long enough, there’s a high likelihood of finding aphids on the plants. Aphids are common, even in an organic garden. They can quickly take over the garden and can be frustrating to deal with. If you are faced with this problem, do not despair. We have a lot of tips, tricks, and control methods that we will give to you.

What Are Aphids?

Aphids are small pests that belong to the family Aphididae. Worldwide, there are more than 4000 species of aphids. They occur mostly in moderate and warm climates.

Aphids have tiny bodies that are soft and pear-shaped. A lot of them are similar in size, which is about an eighth of an inch; aphids vary in size. They come in different colors. Depending on the type, they can be pale green, or black aphids on tomato plants, red, yellow, or white aphids on tomato plants.

They usually occur in clusters at the base of leaves and stems of plants. They then bite into these plant parts and suck out the liquids inside.

Tomato plants usually get infested with potato aphids. This type is usually red aphids on tomato plants. Tomatoes can also get infested with peach aphids, which appear as green bugs on tomato plants.

Early in the spring, aphids migrate to tomato fields from hosts in the wild, and then they establish their colonies on the plants. Aphids have a very high rate of reproduction. A single aphid can easily lay up to a maximum of 100 eggs in its lifetime. Because of this, colonies of aphids increase very quickly in population.

Aphids in small populations are not a very big problem, however, if they are left untreated, they can completely destroy your crop.

Symptoms of Aphid Infested Tomatoes

Once aphids are present in high numbers in an area, they develop wings that help them spread to form colonies in other areas with susceptible plants, such as a tomato garden. They may be hard to spot if you are not paying attention to them. There are some symptoms that you can look out for.

Because aphides like to colonize the bottom parts of leaves, they can easily suck up the sap from the leaves unnoticed. This will cause the leaves to wilt and turn yellow. New growth on the plant may have become stunted growth. The result of this is that the tomato yields will be reduced and the fruits may become deformed.

Stunted leaves with a deformed appearance or curled edges are a clear sign of aphid damage on tomato leaves. When these pests suck the sap and nutrients from the leaves and stems of the plant, the leaves will not grow properly.

Aphids produce honeydew, a clear and sticky substance that coats the areas that the aphids have been on. Because honeydew is sugary, it attracts ants. If you notice populations of ants on your tomatoes, it could be a sign that you have an aphid infestation.

If the leaves and/or stems of your tomato plants appear black, it could be another sign that aphids have been infested. The honeydew produced by aphids can be a haven for sooty mold which paints the plant black.

Other symptoms of aphid-infested tomatoes include the wilting of plant stems from the loss of sap by the aphids feeding on them.

Although aphids are noticeable to the naked eye, it’s a fact that they can still be very small and difficult to see. The signs and symptoms listed above can help you identify when your tomato plants have been infested so that you can take care of the issue before it becomes a big problem.

Do Aphids Like Tomato Plants?

Tomatoes are great at attracting aphids into gardens. They especially enjoy sucking the sap from young plant leaves and fruits.

While aphids are generally attracted to tomatoes, they are not going to cause any damage if they are in small populations. But as soon as the infestation increases and takes over, the destruction of the plant tissues will begin and can eventually kill the plants.

In cases where aphids do not kill the plant, they can stunt the growth of plants. This would be a better scenario for the outcome of an infestation. Usually, an aphid infestation kills the plants by overfeeding the sap and transmitting diseases. Aphids feed on the plant sap by sucking it out with their piercing and sucking mouthparts.

Tomatoes are quite resilient to large numbers of aphids without suffering much damage. In severe cases, however, symptoms of damage such as leaf curling and stunted plant growth may be observed. The reduced leaf area will expose the fruit to sun scald, which will ultimately reduce yield.

Aphids are vectors of certain plant viruses. This means that even if they are not in high enough populations to damage the plants by overfeeding on the sap, they can transport certain viruses that may cause damage or even kill the plants. It is therefore best to take care of an aphid problem because it causes irreversible damage.

How to Get Rid of Aphids on Tomato Plants

Fortunately, there are numerous options you can choose from to get rid of aphids on your tomato plants. There are biological, cultural, physical, and chemical methods you can use. But if you want to be safe and not introduce any potential threats to your crop, it is best to stick to natural options and biological methods such as;

Manual removal

If you spot aphids on your tomato plants while they are still only a few, you can simply pick them and put them in a bucket filled with soapy water to kill them. Check the undersides of tomato leaves to make sure that you get all the pests off.

After the first time picking off the aphids, repeat the inspection daily for a few days to check whether or not you may need to take further steps to get rid of them.

Water spray

A water spray with a garden hose is another great way of getting rid of aphids. Use a sharp but gentle blast of water to knock them off the tomato leaves and stems. This will surely decrease the aphid populations. Check every few days again to determine whether you need to repeat the process.

Be careful when using a water hose as it may also knock off beneficial insects from your plants, and may break the branches of the plant, especially the young ones.

Bug repellent

Instead of buying store-brand bug repellents, you can use garlic, rosemary, peppermint, water, and dish soap to make your own at home. These are all-natural ingredients and will safely get rid of aphids from your tomatoes, as they are gentle.

This mix does not kill the bugs, but what smells will mask the scent of the tomato as the host plant so they will not be able to locate it.

Water and dish soap

A mixture of water and dish soap will also work fine to repel aphids from your tomato plants. Mix a few teaspoons of liquid dish soap with one quart of water. Simply spray this mixture on the plant leaves and it will kill the bugs by suffocating them.

Introduce predatory insects

The introduction of predatory insects into a garden that aphids have infested is one of the most efficient ways to get rid of or control them. Many people introduce insects such as ladybugs and lacewings into their gardens.

Birds such as hummingbirds are another great predator of aphids as they love to snack on them. Invite birds into your garden by strategically placing bird feeders in various places and they will help you out a lot.

Diatomaceous earth

Diatomaceous earth (DE) is a powder made from fossilized algae that are rich in silica. It can be deadly to aphids. The edges of the DE grains cut into the soft bodies of aphids, causing them to dry up and die.

Sprinkle some DE onto both the soil and your tomato plants to kill aphids. Be careful to select food-grade DE when your purchase it from the store. It is safe for humans and can be used on plants, unlike filter-grade DE which is not. Only apply DE early in the morning or later in the evening when the dew has dried, as it does not work when wet.

Neem oil

Neem oil is a natural bug repellent that is useful against many different types of bugs and insects. It works similarly to insecticidal soap, that is by suffocating the aphids when sprayed on them. It also works systemically by interfering with the hormone receptors in the insects, hence it is referred to as a broad-spectrum insecticide.

Alcohol sprays

Rubbing alcohol is an easily available, affordable, and simple solution to aphid infestations. Mix equal parts water and alcohol in a sprayer bottle, add a teaspoon of soap to make the mixture more effective, and spray it on your infested plants.

Humus

Adding humus as a soil amendment around your tomato plants will control infestations, as aphids do not like it.

Pruning

If you notice that only certain leaves of the tomat0 plant are heavily infested, and perhaps have started showing signs of damage, pruning them off may be the best way to get rid of the clusters of aphids and will stop them from breeding.

In summary, natural options such as rubbing alcohol and neem oil are great products to use for treating aphid infestations on tomato plants. If these are unavailable to you, mix a few teaspoons of liquid dish soap with one quart of water. Always make sure to check the undersides of tomato leaves to get rid of aphids efficiently.

How to Prevent Aphids on Tomatoes

As you probably know, prevention is better than cure. Instead of waiting until you get an infestation to deal with, there are certain proactive steps you can take to prevent or minimize the risk of getting an aphid infestation on your tomatoes;

Healthy soil and healthy plants

Insects and other pests prey on weak plants that are growing on low-quality or degraded soil. The best way to avoid this is to build up healthy soil in your garden by mulching or adding organic matter so that there is a constant availability of nutrients to your plants.

Companion planting

Planting fragrant flowers and herbs alongside tomatoes can help control pests. Plants such as marigolds and basil are great insect and pest repellents that can ask the scent of tomatoes, hiding and protecting them from aphids.

Sticky traps

Aphids are attracted to bright colors such as yellow. You can purchase yellow sticky boards and place them around your tomatoes. The aphids will get attracted to them and will get trapped before they get to the plants.

Attract more aphid predators

Aphids have natural predators such as lady beetles, syrphid flies, and lacewings. If you can find a way to grow these insects in your garden, they will do a great job of helping you out with pest control.

Setting up birdhouses and feeders in the garden before there is any noticeable infestation may be a great idea t keep it at bay.

Row covers

Place row covers over your tomato plants immediately after planting them. This will help to protect them from extreme weather conditions and changes that could potentially hurt the growth and health of their plants, making them susceptible to opportunistic pests.

Conclusion – Aphids on Tomato Plants

Aphids can cause great destruction to tomato plants if left unchecked. It is therefore best to tackle them as soon as you notice them in your garden before they cause devastating that they are very well capable of in large populations. Another great way to deal with a possible infestation is by being proactive and placing systems and measures in place that will prevent infestations from taking place.

Use the tips and tricks provided in this article to get rid of aphid infestation problems in your tomato plants so you can get a good harvest.

Happy growing!

Dr. Nyiko C. Mabasa

An aquaculture specialist and freelance writer. Passionate about anything sustainable living, such as growing your own food, and if you can do it in conjunction with fish farming, even better! I currently work as an aquaculture researcher where I can expand and share my knowledge and skills on aquaculture, crop farming and adding value to wastewater by using it to grow food products. I enjoy reading and learning as much as possible, and writing is another avenue for me to share the knowledge I gain with others. I want my writing to inspire people to try their hand at gardening, whether indoors or outdoors. You can even start by keeping a few houseplants indoors to help you gain a bit of confidence if you need to.

May 16, 2023
Tomatoes Not Turning Red? 14 Tips for Ripening Tomatoes
Are your tomatoes not turning red despite being big enough to be ripe and have been in the ground for long enough? This is a common frustration that many tomato gardeners face. Do not despair, there are ways to diagnose this problem and solutions to it. In this article, we will give you 14 tips for ripening tomatoes.

Tomatoes are some of the most common and versatile vegetables that are used in every household. Fresh garden tomatoes are some of the best and freshest you can ever taste. So it can be discouraging when your tomatoes don’t ripen when you expect them to. Keep reading this article to learn all about tomatoes not turning red.

Tomatoes

Tomatoes are described as edible berries of the plant Solanum lycopersicum, which is commonly referred to as the tomato. The tomato plant originates from South America, Mexico, and Central America.

Many different types and varieties of tomatoes are used for different purposes, such as cooking, salads, pickling, etc.

Indeterminate tomato plant varieties are perennials in their natural habitat, however, they can be cultivated as annuals. Depending on the cultivar, plants can grow up to 1/2-4 inches in width.

Tomatoes can come in different colors too, with most of them turning red when ripe. As a result, it can be quite frustrating when tomatoes don’t turn red when you expect them to.

Why Are My Tomatoes Not Turning Red?

There are different reasons why tomatoes are not turning red.

The first and most obvious reason is that they may not be ripe yet. Tomatoes have a long growing season. Depending on the variety, they may take anywhere between 60 to more than 100 days from the day they are transplanted to when they are ready for harvest. If you are not sure what the exact timeframe for the ripening of your plants is, check the packaging, as this information is usually provided.

Another reason is that some tomatoes are just not red when ripe, so they can not be expected to turn red even when they are ready for harvesting. Some tomatoes have unique colors. Examples of these include;
- Sungold cherry, garden peach, and Persimmon, which are yellow when ripe
- Black krim, which is a beautiful black color
- Green zebra, which is a modern heirloom tomato that is known for its lime green color.
While these tomatoes have unusual colors, they are great to grow if you want to try something different.

As tomatoes mature in the summer, they can become big and overgrown. When it happens, the plants direct most of their energy toward producing more leaves and flowers, instead of ripening the tomatoes.

The number one cause of tomatoes not turning red when the time is right is temperature. Regular tomatoes will not turn red if the temperatures for their ripening are off. Temperatures above 85 degrees Fahrenheit are too high, and anything below 50 degrees Fahrenheit is too low. The bigger risk of the two, however, is the high temperatures that can often occur during a heatwave.

Outside the temperature range of 50-85 degrees Fahrenheit, the tomato plant is unable to produce enough carotene and lycopene that cause the color change for the ripening process. The best temperature for tomato ripening is 70-85 degrees Fahrenheit.

Although tomatoes love heat, too much of it can be bad. Extended periods of heat stress can cause plants to stop developing and this may prevent the tomatoes not to turn red. Too much cold temperatures stop the production of the carotene that is needed for the ripening of the tomato. This usually happens at the end of the growing season.

Excessive watering and feeding of the plants can also be bad. If tomato plants are provided with more nutrients than they need, it can cause them to direct their energy towards producing new growth instead of ripening the fruit.

When Do Tomatoes Turn Red?

Tomatoes have a long growing season. To be a tomato gardener, you must have a lot of patience. Tomatoes will turn red when ripe, provided all their growing and ripening conditions are being met. If you are unsure when exactly this time should be for the particular variety of tomatoes in your garden, check the packaging that the seeds or seedlings came in. The growth period of the tomatoes should be given there. If you do not have access to the packaging, a quick Google search might be helpful to estimate the approximate time you should expect your tomatoes to ripen.

Generally, most tomatoes take between 60 to just over 100 days to ripen. This is between the day they are transplanted into the soil and the day they are ready to harvest. The speed with which they ripen will depend on variety, environmental conditions, and the size of the tomato fruit. For example, cherry tomatoes ripen faster than larger tomatoes.

To get them to ripen at the right time, you have to plant them in the soil at the right time. The best time to do so is to start the seeds about 6-8 weeks before the last frost date.

Keep in mind that not all tomatoes will turn red. Some tomatoes are yellow, orange, purple, or even green when ripe. Know what the variety of the tomatoes you are planting is, so that you know what they should look like when they are ripe.

What to Do When Your Tomatoes Are Not Ripening

Both larger and small tomatoes such as cherry tomatoes not turning red can be due to various reasons, as we have already discussed. Here are 14 tips for ripening tomatoes when they won’t ripen.

1. Stop the plant from growing

One of the major reasons this happens is the result of overgrown plants. This then causes the plant to divert more energy into producing new plant growth, instead of toward the fruit and seed. One way to deal with this is to stop the plant from inefficiently utilizing energy. Do this by pinching or cutting off the top point of the plant that is growing, so that the plant will not get any bigger.

Also, cut off any new flowers that have not produced any fruit yet. They will never be able to do so as there is not enough time left in the growing season.

2. Cut off the outside shoots

Tomatoes are very strong growing plants and produce a lot of foliage. Even if you keep trimming them, shoots keep reappearing. You should always pinch off or cut off any side shots that develop after the plant has matured. Always keep an eye out for them and remove them as soon as they appear. This will save the plant from using energy for growth, which it should rather direct towards fruit ripening.

3. Trim back plant foliage

Like all other plants, tomatoes need light for good growth and health. If there is too much foliage that covers the plant and minimizes the amount of light that it gets, the plant will not grow very strong. Trim off as much of the foliage as you can without damaging the plant. This will enable the plant to get direct sunlight that will warm it up, helping to speed up ripening.

4. Provide heat

If you can provide your plants with some form of heat, it will help ripen them. If you can install grow lights that can increase the temperatures even slightly, the ripening process would speed up.

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5. Move plants to an indoor area

Tomato plants are great for growing indoors. If your tomatoes were planted in a movable grow bed or pot, moving them indoors where you can control the temperature to make them more suitable for ripening will greatly benefit the plant.

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6. Cut back on fertilizing

Excessive fertilizing of tomato plants can do more harm than good. Ideally, tomatoes should only be fertilized about 2-3 times during their entire growth cycle. Do not fertilize the plants when they are close to harvest, and this will cause them to direct energy towards growth and not ripening.

7. Reduce watering

Excessive watering can also delay tomato fruit ripening. Reduce the rate of plant watering by only watering when you notice signs of wilting on the plant. This can help to push the plant towards fruit ripening.

8. Wait for cooler temperatures

If your tomatoes are not turning red because of high temperatures, you may just have to wait until the weather cools and ripening resumes.

9. Hang the plant upside down

Uproot whole plants when tomatoes won’t ripen. Hang the plant upside down in a warm and dry room where it will be protected from extreme temperatures and frost. The fruit can ripen as the plant dies. When trying out this method, try to get some of the soil out with the root.

10. Put the tomatoes in a bag with a banana

If you still can’t get your tomatoes to ripen, try this trick of putting them in a bag with a ripe banana. The ripe banana releases ethylene which is a great promoter of tomato fruit ripening. If you choose to try this method, check your tomatoes regularly for any sign of rot. If you notice that any are starting to rot, remove them before they damage the others in the bag.

11. Put the tomatoes in a bag with a ripe apple

This method is the same way as the previous method described, just with a different fruit.

12. Pick individual tomatoes to ripen

You can also pick tomatoes individually to ripen them by placing them on window sills, and they will eventually turn red.

13. Plant the next crop of tomatoes on time

As more of a proactive way to ensure that your tomatoes ripen, plant them at the right time so that they have enough time in the growing season to grow and ripen before the temperature gets bad.

14. Pick the green tomatoes

If all efforts of ripening your tomatoes fail, you can pick them green. Green tomatoes are great for pickling.

Can Tomatoes Ripen Off the Plant?

Normally and ideally, plants should be left on the plant until they ripen, and then they can be picked off, However, some conditions occur that may require you to pick them off the vine and attempt to ripen them indoors. These factors are usually associated with environmental conditions such as temperature and frost.

You can pick unripe tomatoes and ripen them off the plant, provided that you can give them good ripening conditions as described above.

Why Are My Tomatoes Not Ripening? – Summary

Tomatoes are very easy plants to grow, as long as you know the variety and their ideal growing conditions. Key points to remember are that tomatoes won’t turn red if it’s too hot (above 85°F) or too cold (below 50°F), If your tomatoes do not grow well, they may be stressed and this may affect ripening. Smaller tomatoes are the result of stressed tomato plants.

Tomatoes produce carotene and lycopene which will promote ripening at the end of the growing season. Make sure that your plants are provided with good growing conditions so that they can produce enough carotene and lycopene.

Tomatoes are slow to ripen on the vine because they are overfed, overwatered, overgrown, or the weather is too cold. Adjust your maintenance schedules to get the best out of your plants.

We hope this article provided you with enough information, tips, and tricks that you will use to ripen your tomatoes that may not be turning red on their own.

Happy growing!
Dr. Nyiko C. Mabasa
An aquaculture specialist and freelance writer. Passionate about anything sustainable living, such as growing your own food, and if you can do it in conjunction with fish farming, even better! I currently work as an aquaculture researcher where I can expand and share my knowledge and skills on aquaculture, crop farming and adding value to wastewater by using it to grow food products. I enjoy reading and learning as much as possible, and writing is another avenue for me to share the knowledge I gain with others. I want my writing to inspire people to try their hand at gardening, whether indoors or outdoors. You can even start by keeping a few houseplants indoors to help you gain a bit of confidence if you need to.
May 16, 2023
How Many Potatoes Will Grow Per Plant (and From ONE Seed)

The potato is one of the world’s most commonly grown, consumed, and versatile vegetables. Its ease of growth contributes to its popularity. Knowing how many potatoes will grow per plant is crucial to knowing how your plants will perform and to deciding how many you should plant to fulfill your needs.

How many potatoes will grow per plant will depend on certain factors such as the type or variety of potatoes being grown, environmental conditions, and how well their growing needs are being met.

Keep reading to know how many potato plants to plant to ensure that you harvest enough to last you and your family until the next growing season.

How Many Potatoes Per Plant?

How many potatoes per plant can you expect from your harvest? Under ideal growing conditions, the average number of potatoes a potato plant can produce per plant is between three and eight. Different varieties may produce fewer or more potatoes than others. The tubers’ sizes may also differ, ranging from small to extra large.

If you want to provide for a family, about 40 potato plants may be sufficient for the year. If these plants all grow healthily until harvest, you should expect a harvest of around 125 pounds of potatoes.

How Many Potatoes Grow From One Potato Seed?

Seed potatoes vary significantly in size. A small-sized seed potato is planted whole, and a single potato can be produced per plant. However, Larger seed potatoes can be cut into halves or quarters, grown, and produced between two and four potato plants.

Planting seed potatoes whole will usually produce more vigorous plants. It is, therefore, unnecessary to cut the seed potato unless it is huge.

A single-seed potato that grows well will produce one plant, and this one plant will produce between 8 and 10 full-sized potatoes. In addition, each potato plant is likely to have a couple of smaller baby potatoes as well.

Do Different Potato Varieties Produce the Same Number of Potatoes Per Seed?

How many potatoes per plant seed can differ between different cultivars? To find out how many potatoes your particular variety will produce, read the plant descriptions on the packaging or the resources available online.

However, the average yield per potato plant listed assumes that ideal growing conditions are met for that particular potato variety. If the conditions are not ideal, the plant may produce fewer potatoes or nothing at all.

Ideal Growing Conditions for Optimal Potato Yield

While different potato cultivars will have different specific environmental conditions for maximum yield, here are some things you can do to help ensure that you get optimal productivity out of your potatoes:

1. Planting distance

Potatoes are tubers that grow underground. Because of this, they need plenty of space to grow, so it is important to provide them with sufficient room.

If potatoes are planted too closely, young tubers will not grow as well as you would expect them to, resulting in a poor yield.

Another reason not to plant them too closely is that they will compete for nutrients, further negatively impacting their growth.

Potato plants should be planted 12 -14 inches apart and have 3 feet between rows to achieve the best growth and optimum yield. If you plan to harvest your potatoes at the baby stage, however, you can plant them closer to each other, as they will require less space to grow.

If you have adhered to this recommended planting distance, you should not have to worry about the possibility of them crowding up in the soil. They will adjust themselves and spread out as needed, provided the soil they are planted in is right. The plant roots and tubers will grow well.

2. Planting depth

How deep you plant your seed potatoes will have a massive impact on the eventual yield. Seed potatoes need to have enough soil covering them so that no part of the tuber is left exposed. If they do not get completely covered and are exposed to the sun, they will turn green due to the solanine in them. If these potatoes are consumed, they will cause solanine poisoning. Green potatoes should not be eaten and must be immediately discarded. This will lead to a loss of crop yield.

The best depth to plant your potatoes is 4-6 inches. Start with this depth and hill them up as the plants continue to grow taller to keep them protected.

You can hill your potatoes up by mounding the soil around them with a spade, hoe, or other implement that you have. Hill them up to within 2-3 inches of the plant foliage. Start hilling them when the plants have attained a height of 8-10 inches, and repeat the process when they get new growth of 8-10 inches.

The process of hilling your plants will help to provide them with sufficient soil for adequate growth and expansion of tubers underground. The higher level of soil will also help to support the growing foliage on top of the ground. If your plants are not provided with enough soil, they will be exposed to the sun, which will diminish your crop yield.

3. Soil type

Potato tubers need to be planted in loose soil for them to grow well and expand underground. Using loose, soft, and well-draining soil will help to increase your potato yield. Potatoes require plenty of space to spread their roots and grow large potatoes.

Growing potatoes in compacted soil will produce only small potatoes as they will struggle to push against the dirt to increase in size.

4. Soil fertility

Soil fertility is an important aspect of increasing your potato yield. Before your potatoes are planted, apply a suitable fertilizer to the soil. It is important to use a fertilizer that is specific for potatoes when you first plant them and mid-way through the season so that they get the boost of nutrients they need to produce as many potatoes as they can.

Use a 5-10-10 fertilizer in the planting rows and carefully work it into the soil. Follow the instructions on the packaging container. You must also side-dress the potatoes with the same fertilizer before the first hilling.

5. Soil moisture

Potatoes need adequate, but not too much watering. Potatoes need about 1 to 2 inches of rain per week. If your area does not receive this amount of rain, you will need t give your potatoes supplemental water.

Water your potatoes enough to saturate the soil up to the level of the roots and tubers. Water each time the first two inches of the soil feel dry.

Going for long periods without watering or adequate water will lead to malformations of your potato tubers, which can lead to poor yields. This is because insufficient moisture will cause the potato tubers to grow slowly if they even grow at all.

If you resumed watering your potatoes or got plenty of rain after a period of no rain, it will cause the tubers to grow rapidly and split or develop malformations.

To get the best yield out of your potatoes, and get the best shapes, you will need to water them regularly during their growing season.

6. Pests

Pests can have a detrimental impact on your potato crop yield. Treat them as soon as you notice them before they have any significant damage to the plants. Insect pests such as the Colorado potato beetle can completely destroy the foliage of the plants. If this happens, the growth of tubers underground will stop because the plants will not have enough support. Eventually, you will have reduced yield and small potatoes.

7. Sunlight exposure

Like all other plants, potato plants require sunlight to carry out photosynthesis. Without sufficient sunlight, the growth of the plant will slow down and result in your potato yield is poor.

Make sure you plant your potatoes in an area that receives at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight each day, for the entire duration of the growing cycle. The plants can and will grow with less light, however, their growth will not be as good as it would be if they received more light. So to get the best growth, health, and ultimately good yield from your potatoes, provide them with plenty of sunlight.

8. Proper hilling

Hilling your potatoes at the time they are first planted, and one or two more times during their growing season will help improve crop yield. Hilling provides support for the growing plant foliage, which will force it to grow upwards toward the sunlight and consequently increase the growth of tubers.

9. Choosing the right potato variety

There are hundreds of potato varieties to choose from that are readily available from local seed stores and online shops. Before you choose the variety to grow. Do a bit of research around it to find out if it is suited to your climate, or if you will be able to provide it with the growing conditions it requires.

It is also helpful to know information such as the length of the growing season, the amount of space they need for growth, specific uses of that particular potato, and as well as resistance or susceptibility to disease and parasites.

Potato varieties such as Pontiac Red, Kennebec White, and Purple Majesty are all great varieties of potatoes that consistently produce high yields of potatoes. If you are you do not know much about potato varieties, you can begin by researching these three to see which one would be best suited to your environment.

10. Plant your potatoes at the right time

Potato plants have an ideal time that they should be planted to get the best chance of survival. You should plant them when the soil warms up to about 45 degrees Fahrenheit. In most areas, that would be about two weeks after the last frost date.

While looking at the timing, it is also key to monitor the soil moisture content. If you have had a wet spring, wait a few weeks until the ground has dried up a bit. If the soil is too wet, it can cause the potato tubers to rot.

If you have no choice but to plant potatoes earlier than this, look for the varieties that mature earlier, as they are better able to withstand cold conditions. You can plant these up to six weeks before the last first date.

How Many Potatoes Does a Potato Plant Produce?

Typically, a single potato plant will produce anywhere between 3 and 5 pounds of potatoes. This may be enough to feed a family of four people twice.

Keep in mind, however, that different varieties of potatoes will produce different numbers of potatoes. In addition to this, the growing conditions such as sunlight, nutrient provision, adequate growing space, and a good irrigation schedule have to be maintained well to achieve optimum growth.

Can I Use Store-Bought Potatoes as Seeds?

Technically, yes. Store-bought potatoes can be used as seeds to grow potatoes. You will have figured this out when you left potatoes out for too long and they started sprouting. If you plant them in the ground during the right growing season, you should harvest some potatoes.

However, potato growth experts advise against using shop potatoes as seeds. They recommend only using certified potatoes to plant in your garden.

The reasons for this include that potato growers put sprout inhibitors to slow down the rate of budding when the potatoes are being shipped, and while they are at the store. This may cause the potatoes to grow weak or not produce any growth when planted.

Another reason that you should not use shop potatoes as seeds is that they often contain a lot of microorganisms and diseases. These can easily spread to plants and completely destroy all other plants in your garden. Seed potatoes that are certified will come with a guarantee that they are free of any diseases or microorganisms that can destroy the potato and other crops.

Certified seed potatoes are usually strong and healthy, and have a higher chance of having vigorous growth, producing large and strong potatoes, and ultimately a good yield.

How Do I Know That My Potatoes Are Growing

Because potatoes grow underground, it may be difficult, especially for new and inexperienced growers to be able to tell what stage their plants are at. It can be difficult to tell whether or not your potato tubers are growing. There are signs that you can look out for.

Flowering is a great indicator that your potatoes have started growing. If you want to harvest your potatoes in the baby stage, you can go ahead and do so at this point. After the flowers have come and gone, the foliage at the top of the soil will die back. This is so that the plant will start directing its energy towards growing the tubers larger. If you want to harvest full-sized potatoes, you should do so after the plants have died back.

Another way to know that your potatoes have matured is when the stems of the plants have started to go yellow and die off. This usually happens at the end of summer, or early in the fall.

If you still want a bit of reassurance that your potatoes are ready to harvest, you can dig a small test spot and get a few tubers out to gauge if they are at your desired harvest size.

Quick Summary – How Many Potatoes Per Plant (and From ONE Seed)

Different varieties of potatoes will produce different amounts of potatoes at harvest time. You will need to read the information on the seed packaging to get an idea of how many potatoes per plant your particular variety will produce. Generally, with potatoes, however, if the plant is healthy, you can expect to dig up about five or six full-size potatoes per plant.

Potato plants yield from five to 10 potatoes per plant depending on the variety, climate, and whether the growing conditions of the plants are met. Usually, a single potato plant produces anywhere between 3 and 5 pounds of potatoes. Knowing this can help you to plan how many plants to plant to you can have enough potatoes until the next growing season.

Follow the guidelines and tips provided in this article to increase your potato plant harvest. Remember that a single plant has the potential to produce between three and four pounds of potatoes, and a single seed potato will produce above four or five plants. Start from there and then plan how many potato plants to plant for an adequate supply.

We hope this article has given you all the information you need to know on how many potatoes per plant you can expect from your potato plant. Happy growing!

Dr. Nyiko C. Mabasa

An aquaculture specialist and freelance writer. Passionate about anything sustainable living, such as growing your own food, and if you can do it in conjunction with fish farming, even better! I currently work as an aquaculture researcher where I can expand and share my knowledge and skills on aquaculture, crop farming and adding value to wastewater by using it to grow food products. I enjoy reading and learning as much as possible, and writing is another avenue for me to share the knowledge I gain with others. I want my writing to inspire people to try their hand at gardening, whether indoors or outdoors. You can even start by keeping a few houseplants indoors to help you gain a bit of confidence if you need to.

May 16, 2023
When & How to Harvest Rosemary
The smell and taste of freshly harvested rosemary from the garden have got to be the most refreshing things you can experience. While the process of harvesting is very simple and easy, it is important to know when & how to harvest rosemary the right way so that your plant keeps producing for you to have a long and continuous harvest.

Rosemary is a cut-and-come-again type of crop, meaning the more of it you pick, the more you will be able to harvest. This is provided you do it properly. If you want to learn how to harvest rosemary properly, and get tips on what to do with it afterward, keep reading.

The Rosemary Plant

Rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus) is a perennial herb that can be grown in so many different climates all year round even if they are flowering, as long as the environmental conditions are right.

The rosemary plant is a shrub with fragrant, evergreen, needle-shaped leaves. It can also have white, pink, purple, or blue flowers depending on where it is in its growth cycle. It is native to the Mediterranean region and will survive the winter in warmer climates.

Rosemary however very sensitive to extremely cold conditions such as freezing temperatures. If you have this kind of weather approaching, you might need to harvest all your rosemary before the cold kills it. Either pull the entire plant from the soil or gather the leaves and young stems. You can also just cut the plant all the way back.

If you have plants that are sure to withstand the winter cold, or you live in a place with a warm climate, having one or two will usually be enough for you to use throughout the summer and still have enough to store for use through the fall and winter months.

Rosemary is a herb that makes a great companion for many vegetable dishes such as cabbage, broccoli, and carrots. If you fancy growing and enjoying this herb, learn how to harvest rosemary without killing the plant.

How to Harvest Rosemary Without Killing the Plant

Rosemary has two parts of the plant that you can harvest, these are the new tips or sprigs, and the leave. Both parts of the plant are edible.

Most of the flavor and aromatic oils of rosemary are found in the leaves of the plant. This makes them ideal for use in cooking, making tea, and many other uses. The tender tips of the stems are the best ones to use for cooking. The older ones tend to get woody and tough and are best used to infuse flavors rather than eating.

If your rosemary plant is newly planted, you will need to have to wait until it has grown a bit of length and start to bush out before you start harvesting it.

Step-by-step guide

Step 1: Harvest the plant at the right time

The best time to harvest rosemary is in the spring and summer when the plant is actively growing. Avoid harvesting it in the winter season, when it is dormant.

Step 2: Harvets new shots that are at least 8 inches long

New shoots are best for cooking as they have a lot of flavors and are tender. Shoots that are still too young need to be given time to grow so that you can have a continuous harvest.

Step 3: Cut 3/4 of the plant stems at the maximum

Never harvest all the stems of your plant at any one time. Leaving the plant with some stems will allow it to regenerate.

Step 4: Leave at least a quarter of the branch intact with as many leaves as possible

Leaving branches with some leaves will help your plant to keep producing.

Step 5: Water the plant thoroughly

While harvesting your rosemary, make sure that you keep watering it so that it can continue to put out new shoots.

Step 6: Give the plant some fertilizer

Giving fertilizer to the plant will help it to recover after it gets harvested.

Step 7: Monitor your plant for any spots or signs of unusual development or stress

Keeping a careful eye on your plant will help you to quickly notice any unusual signs on your plant so you can remedy what you can to keep your plant healthy.

How to Cut Rosemary From Plant

Most gardeners cut off full sprigs, and then strip off the leaves depending on the intended use. To strip off the leaves, simply run your fingers along the length of the stem from top to bottom. You can also just pinch them off with your fingers.

Instead of cutting off full sprigs of rosemary, you can also just take individual needles from the plant as needed.

However, you choose to harvest rosemary, always cut the tender, new tips or stems. The best ones to harvest are those that are 8 inches or longer. Identify those and cut off the top 2-3 inches with sharp pruning she ars.

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How often you harvest your rosemary will depend on a few factors. These factors include the age or size of your plant and how much you harvest at a time.

If you are cutting a few sprigs here and there, you can harvest as often as you like with no fear of overharvesting your plant. If you take a large harvest at a time, about 1/3 of the plant’s total size at any one time, the plant will definitely need more time to recover.

Always use sharp pruners or kitchen scissors to cut off the stems instead of pulling or tugging on the branches. And be careful not to harvest too much at a time or your plant may not be able to recover.

Only pick the healthy stems that have green leaves. If you notice any yellowing, browning, or dry needles, do not harvest them as they may not taste good. You can however cut them off and give the plant a chance to grow healthy foliage.

Regularly trim the plant even if you do not harvest for use. Doing this every two weeks will help to encourage new plant growth. You can freeze some of your trimmed-off rosemary for long-term storage in an airtight container or ziploc bag.

When to Harvest Rosemary

The best time to pick rosemary is in the spring and summer when the plant is actively putting on new growth. It is best to pick the sprigs in the morning after the dew has evaporated before the afternoon heat has set in.

As soon as your plant is established and is putting out new growth, you can harvest it during these time periods. Look out for supple green stems emerging from the already existing branches to know when the plant is ready for harvest.

Are Rosemary Flowers Edible?

Rosemary buds are tiny flowers that appear when the rosemary plant is in bloom. These flowers are edible and can be used for many different things.

They have a slightly sweeter flavor than the leaves. They are perfect for garnishing various dishes and adding colors to salads. They have a similar flavor and aroma to the leaves and stems, only taste a bit sweeter.

What to Do With Freshly Harvested Rosemary

Refrigeration

Freshly picked rosemary can be enjoyed right away but chopping it up and adding it to soups, stews, sauces, or even roasts, or infused into other foods. Any leftovers can be safely stored in a small glass or vase and kept in the fridge for use within a few days. If it is whole sprigs, keep the ends submerged in clean water and they can last for up to two weeks.

Refrigeration is a good short-term storage solution and will keep rosemary fresh for about 2-3 weeks. There is no need to wash the sprigs for refrigeration, it might actually help them store longer. Simply clean them with a damp towel. Place your cleaned sprigs in a container and store them in the crisp drawer of the refrigerator.

Freezing

If you want to store your rosemary for longer, you can freeze it. These silicone ice cube trays are great and easy to use to turn rosemary into ice cubes and store them in an airtight container or ziploc bag so they do not get any off flavors.

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Drying

Another long-term storage option for rosemary is drying it. Unlike other herbs such as parsley and basil, rosemary does not lose its flavor when dried.

Using a food dehydrator is one quick way of drying the herb. You can dry whole sprigs using a low setting that is suitable for herbs. If you do not own a food dehydrator, use the traditional method of air drying.

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For drying, it is best to harvest stems of about 6-8 inches, but any length will do. Hang them up in bunches in a dark, dry, and warm place, or lay them flat on wire racks, and make sure you do not tack them in layers as this may delay drying or even make them rot. Place a tray under the drying herbs so it will help to catch any bits that fall off as the herbs dry.

Keep in mind that dry rosemary is much harder and woody than when it is soft. You can crush or grind the dried leaves to make them easier to cook with, but they retain flavor better if they are kept whole.

How Long is Rosemary Good For?

This fragrant, vigorous, and evergreen herb can be harvested all year round, although the best time to harvest it is in the summer and spring, just before it flowers and when the aromatic oils are at their best and the plant essence is best preserved.

If you take good care of your plant, it will keep producing healthy, and if you harvest it the right way might keep it around for about 15 years or more.

Once harvested, you have multiple options on how to store it:
- Refrigerating for up to three weeks
- Freezing for up to six months
- Drying for as long as you desire
If you do any of these the right way, your rosemary will stay good.

Tips to Improve Your Rosemary Harvest
1. Rosemary is a relatively drought-tolerant plant, but you must water it regularly if it is in a spot or pot that does not get a lot of rain. This will surely keep your rosemary harvest good. The plant also hates getting too wet, so make sure you grow it in well-draining soil to avoid any water-logged conditions that may kill the plant.
2. If you are in a colder zone, plant your rosemary in containers so that you can bring them in during the cold winter months.
3. If your previously healthy plants are getting less vigorous over the growing seasons, take cuttings from them and grow new plants to replace them. They may be losing vigor due to age.
Quick Summary: How to Harvest Rosemary

Knowing and using the right method of harvesting rosemary is key to maintaining the productivity and vigor of your plant, and will determine how long your plant will last. If you want only a little bit to prepare a dish, you can simply just pluck individual needles directly from the plant as needed.

Most gardeners snip off full sprigs and then strip the leaves when they harvest rosemary. This way they only get what they need and leave the plant to keep growing.

Harvest rosemary by snipping sprigs with pruners or kitchen scissors, and avoid any pulling which may damage the plant. Harvest the new growth on the plant to get the best flavor for cooking. New growth will be flexible and lighter green while older growth will be woodier and darker.

We hope you found this article informative and that you will now confidently grow and harvest your rosemary the right way.

Happy growing!
Dr. Nyiko C. Mabasa
An aquaculture specialist and freelance writer. Passionate about anything sustainable living, such as growing your own food, and if you can do it in conjunction with fish farming, even better! I currently work as an aquaculture researcher where I can expand and share my knowledge and skills on aquaculture, crop farming and adding value to wastewater by using it to grow food products. I enjoy reading and learning as much as possible, and writing is another avenue for me to share the knowledge I gain with others. I want my writing to inspire people to try their hand at gardening, whether indoors or outdoors. You can even start by keeping a few houseplants indoors to help you gain a bit of confidence if you need to.
April 9, 2023
How to Harvest Parsley Without Killing the Plant – 8 Easy Tips
Parsley is one of the most widely used herbs in the world. It is extremely easy to grow and harvest, meaning you can plant in and always have parsley when needed. It is however key to know how to harvest parsley without killing the plant.

Once harvested, it stores extremely well and you can preserve it in many different ways to ensure a continuous supply of this herb all year round. Although usually used as a garnish, it has amazing flavors that can take both cooked and raw dishes to the next level. To keep enjoying this plant, keep reading to learn the exact way to harvest it without killing the plant.

The Parsely Herb

Parsley (Petroselinum crispum) is a flowering plant belonging to the Apiaceae family. It is native to the Mediterranean regions of Greece, Morocco, and the former Yugoslavia. It has since been introduced to Europe and all other areas in the world where the climate is suitable for its growth. It is widely cultivated as a herb and used in various dishes.

The plant is bright green and is a biennial with feather-shaped leaves. It prefers temperate climates but does well in a range of conditions.

There are two primary varieties of parsley, that is flat leaf and curly parsley. The curly leaf is the more popular of the two, but both varieties are used for culinary purposes. The flat leaf parsley is also known as Italian parsley.

Both varieties of parsley have a refreshing earthy taste and a subtle scent and are mostly used in vegetable dishes, stews, soups, salads, and sauces. Parsley is more commonly used in traditional Middle-Eastern and Greek foods.

In addition to having a great state, parsley has various nutritional benefits. It is rich in many nutrients, especially vitamins A and C, and iron.

The ideal growing conditions for parsley include moist, well-drained, and loamy soils, and full to partial sunlight. It prefers warmer climates but can withstand light frost without too much damage, and will re-emerge in the spring. It is also an easy plant to grow from seed and has high rates of germination.

If you are a lover of butterflies, parsley has n added benefit for you and your garden. It is an excellent host for swallowtail caterpillars (Papilionidae) and will multiply in your garden if you grow parsley.

How to Cut Parsley Plant

The parsley plant is harvested for its flavourful leaves as well as its seeds. When doing this, it is best to cut the younger plants for leaves. Younger stems have a stronger flavor. The older plants, which may maybe be in their second growing season are better suited for harvesting seeds.

Does Parsley Grow Back?

Parsely takes about two to three weeks to grow back after harvest. As a result, you need to plan your harvests accordingly to give your herbs enough time to grow again before the next harvest.

If you cut down the parsley plant entirely, it will eventually grow back. It will just take a long time to do so. Only cut what you need at any time to allow the plant to continue growing and producing for a long time.

How to Prune Parsley

Parsely should be pruned back regularly to increase yield. Even if you do not plan on using the herb, you need to prime it once every couple of weeks. The more you cut, the bushier your plant will grow back.

Here are simple tips on how to prune parsley for a better harvest:
- Whenever you harvest your parsley for use, also snip off some stems on the outside of the plant
- Trim off any yellow or brown leaves and stems to encourage new, healthy growth
- Trim the plant at the base of the stem, closer to the soil. If you trim higher, you may slow down plant growth
- The plant prefers a clean cut, so when you cut, use a sharp pair of scissors instead of pinching off the plant
When to Harvest Parsley

Parsley takes about 70-90 days to grow before it s ready for harvesting. You do not have to wait this long before you can start harvesting some leaves. It is however advisable to wait until the plant has produced ample foliage before you start harvesting the leaves.

If all this sounds confusing and you are still unsure, just wait until your plants start getting bushy and have lots of branching leaves before you start to harvest them.

Parsley is a biennial plant that is often grown as an annual and grows back when cut or harvested. When grown in temperate climates, it can be harvested all year round because the temperature stays right for it to keep growing. In other regions, the growing season of the herb is from spring right through fall.

The best time of day to harvest parsley is in the morning before it gets too hot in the day. The plant has the most potent flavor during this period during the high content of essential oils.

How to Pick Parsley – 8 Simple Steps

When it comes to harvesting parsley, you want to make sure that you do it in a way that will keep your plant growing. Follow these eight simple steps to ensure this.

Step 1: Choose younger plants

Younger plants have the best and strongest flavor. These can be harvested after the first year of growth. These can be harvested even in the first year of growth provided that are big enough. This will help the plant to keep putting out new growth.

Step 2: Only harvest plant stems that have at least three segments

Stems that have three segments are considered mature enough for harvest. Those that have only one or two should be left alone.

Step 3: Cut at the base of the stem

It is better to cut the plant at the base than at the top of the stem. This will help the plant to bush out better when it grows back.

Step 4: Cut leaves from the outer parts of the plant

Harvesting the older outer leaves of the plants will help the plant to direct its energy toward new growth.

Step 5: Harvest continually

Harvest your parsley in small batches throughout the growing season. Doing this will help the plant to have enough leaves and stems on it to keep regenerating for a continuous harvest. A good rule of thumb is to always leave ½ – ⅔ of the plant intact when harvesting. Always give your plant about a week to recover between harvests.

Step 6: Bulk harvest at the end of the season

If parsley is planted outside and it is in a cold climate, it is most likely going to get killed by the winter. So right before the winter comes, harvest all your plants and store them. This will give the plant a chance to grow back in the next season.

Step 7: Use your harvested parsley

You can use your parsley freshly harvested

Step 8: Store your harvested parsley

You can store it by refrigerating, freezing, or drying it for long-term storage.

Harvesting Parsley Seeds

After a parsley plant has grown and matured, it produces seeds. This does not happen in the first year of growth. If you would like to harvest seeds from your parsley plants, closely monitor them when they enter the second year of growth. This is when they typically flower ad produce seeds, at the end of their life cycle.

To get a good crop as the growing seasons go by, remove any weak, unhealthy, or imperfect parts of the plant at the end of the first season. This will allow the second-year growth to be much stronger, and healthier and produce good-quality seeds.

You will see that the seeds are ready to harvest when they have darkened. At this point, you can cut them from the plant by removing the stem right below the seed head. You can use sharp scissors to do this, or simply use your fingers to pinch off the seed heads.

Do not move the seed heads too much while harvesting as shaking them will cause the seeds to scatter. Because the seeds are very small, they will be hard to recover. Place the harvested seeds in a paper bag and let them dry. Once they are dry, shake the bag to separate the seeds from their heads. and then you can store them in a cool dry place until they are ready to use.

How to Store Fresh Parsley

Fresh parsley can be stored at room temperature for short-term storage. To do this, bundle the stems together and snip the ends. Then place the stems in a glass or vase filled with water. This way, your parsley will last for about 2-3 days. Wash the parsley before you use it.

You can also store them in the refrigerator for short-term storage. To store them this way, wash your harvested stems and remove any dirt or dust from them. Use a paper town or a dry kitchen cloth to dab them dry. Place them in the vegetable crisper section of your refrigerator, and they will stay fresh for up to 10 days.

Freezing is an option for a longer-term storage solution. You can freeze whole sprigs or cut the leaves small and freeze them with some water in ice cube trays. Frozen parsley will retain its flavor but lose its crispiness. Keep this in mind if you freeze it. Frozen parsley can store for up to six months.

One of the best ways to store parsley for a long time is to dry it. Hang harvested and washed whole sprigs upside down in a warm, dark, and well-ventilated area for them to air dry. It will take about 7-10 days to dry completely. Once completely dry, crumble the leaves and store them in an airtight container or bag.

Another drying option is to use a food dehydrator to dry your parsley quickly and easily. Only use the air drying option as high heat can negatively impact the flavor of the herbs. Store your dried herbs in a mason jar sealed with a food saver and jar sealer attachment. Use dried parsley within 2-3 years.

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Quick Summary – How to Harvest Parsley without Killing the Plant

Harvesting parsley is an extremely easy and quick process, and can be done in a way that will allow you to harvest continually throughout the growing season. To do this, just take what you need each time you harvest. Don’t cut the plant all the way back, and don’t pull the plant. – just snip off a stem or two or three. This will allow your plant to grow back healthier and bushier.

Be gentle when harvesting. Use sharp scissors or knives but do not give in to the temptation to pull or tug on the plant, even if it is a bit hard to cut. Pulling may damage the plant and ultimately kill it.

Remember also to harvest the older leaves first, to allow the plant to direct energy into growing new foliage. As a result, your plant will keep producing parsley all season long.

Harvest your herb continually, even if you do not plan n using it. Pruning the plant, and taking off the outer leaves and stems will encourage new growth and will cause your plant to grow better.

We hope this article has provided you with everything you needed to know about how to harvest parsley without killing the plant.

Happy growing!
Dr. Nyiko C. Mabasa
An aquaculture specialist and freelance writer. Passionate about anything sustainable living, such as growing your own food, and if you can do it in conjunction with fish farming, even better! I currently work as an aquaculture researcher where I can expand and share my knowledge and skills on aquaculture, crop farming and adding value to wastewater by using it to grow food products. I enjoy reading and learning as much as possible, and writing is another avenue for me to share the knowledge I gain with others. I want my writing to inspire people to try their hand at gardening, whether indoors or outdoors. You can even start by keeping a few houseplants indoors to help you gain a bit of confidence if you need to.
April 9, 2023
How to Harvest Thyme Without Killing the Plant [Best Tips]
Thyme is one of the most commonly grown household herbs due to its ease of growth. To get a prolonged harvest and enjoy more of this herb, you need to know how to harvest thyme without killing the plant.

Thyme grows really fast and well if provided with the right growing conditions, and is an extremely versatile herb for adding flavor in cooking and baking. Keep reading to learn more about this incredible herb.

The Thyme Herb

Thyme, scientific name Thymus vulgaris, is a plant native to the Mediterranean but is currently grown almost everywhere in the world. It is a hardy, perennial plant belonging to the mint family that is extremely easy to grow. Because of this and its size, it can be grown in a variety of areas such as in the garden, on the porch, and in any indoor environment.

This wonderful herb has a pleasant, pungent clover flavor that brings some people, good memories of summer!

Thyme comes in at least 50 varieties with different flavors and fragrances. Different thyme varieties are used for different purposes. These are the fragrant ornamental and culinary varieties. The culinary varieties of thyme are usually evergreen, and the English variety is mostly used in cooking.

Taking care of or maintenance of this herb is quite simple. It does not require much care and develops easily. For starters, it is drought friendly so it has low watering needs. If you are into bees, you will love it even more because it will attract bees to your garden. It is usually harvested in the summer months but depending on the climate where you live, you can easily harvest it late into the fall.

Harvesting Thyme Herb

Harvesting thyme the right way is of utmost importance. It is difficult not to know when the right time to harvest thyme is, as it can be quite easy to tell. The most important thing with harvesting thyme is to wait until the plant has grown to 8″ – 10″ in height. Once it has reached this height, you can safely harvest the herb without the risk of killing the plant.

Only trim a few stems at a time for cooking. If you want to do a larger harvest, you should wait until the plant has developed more and produced larger biomass. Regardless of what stage of growth you harvest your thyme at, always leave a few leaves on the plant for it to regenerate.

When harvesting thyme, do it right before the plant starts to flower. This is when the flavor is the most intense. It reduces after the plant flowers. If you can, always harvest thyme in the morning when the plant’s dew has dried from the leaves. The flavorful essential oils are at their peak at this time.

How to harvest thyme so it keeps growing

Just as important as knowing when to harvest thyme, you need to know exactly how to harvest it without killing the plant. Here are the steps that you need to follow:
1. If you want enough to cook one dish, simply cut one or two stems by clipping the stems back to the woody section of the plant.
2. If you want only a few leaves for a smaller meal, rinse the whole stem while it is still on the plant. Then use your fingers or a herb stripper to pull the leaves off the stem.
3. To harvest thyme for drying, use a pair of garden clippers or scissors to cut off the top 5-8″ of growth and leave the tough and woody plants behind.
4. Whatever purpose you want to harvest your thyme for, you can cut back as much as you want from the plants but always leave about 4-5″ of growth behind so that your plants can regenerate. If you harvest your thyme in this way, you will be able to easily get 2-3 harvests from the same plant before the winter arrives.
5. Trim your plants regularly. Trimming your plants regularly is very good for them so do not be afraid to do it. It will encourage new growth to keep coming, while also helping keep the plant in a compact shape. This is especially desirable if you are growing your plant indoors or in a compact space. When you trip, always be careful to leave at least five inches of growth. This will keep your plant thriving.
6. The first time you harvest your thyme, do not harvest more than a third of the plant. This way your plant will keep growing and establish well, then you will be able to harvest more from it in the future. If you overharvest it early on, it may not recover.
7. Trim your thyme plant whenever it gets leggy to encourage continuous growth.
How to Preserve Thyme

As we have already mentioned, a healthy maintained thyme plant can produce so much herb that you can harvest and store, even more, if you have multiple growing plants. Depending on how long you wish to store your thyme, there are various ways that you can preserve it.

Store fresh spring

Keep a fresh spring or sprigs of thyme in a glass of cool water, like you would keep flowers in a vase. Change the water regularly and make sure that the glass never runs dry. You can keep them fresh for a couple of weeks this way.

Refrigeration

Fresh thyme leaves that are still attached to the stem can be kept fresh in the refrigerator for about a week or two before they go bad or loses their flavor. Store fresh thyme leaves in the refrigerator in an airtight container with damp paper towels. They will help to maintain freshness.

Drying

If you want to store the herbs for a longer period though, drying might be the best way to do it. The good news is that thyme is one of the easier herbs to dry. If the temperatures are warm enough, you can even let it air dry.

To dry your thyme:
- Gently rinse off harvested thyme stems in cool water from the tap or fill a sink or bowl and wash them thoroughly.
- Pat them dry with a paper towel or a clean towel and then let them air out for about two years or until they are completely dry.
- Gather the stems into bundles that you can use per dish that you prepare. Tie the stalks of the bundles together at their ends using a string or twine. Hang the bundles in a dark, warm, and well-ventilated area. Spread them out on a paper towel, rack, or tray in a single layer, especially in a humid area. Keep them away from direct sunlight.
- You can place the herb bundles in paper bags with slits if you wish. This will protect the herbs as they dry and catch leaves that may fall off.
- Expect to wait about 2-3 weeks for the herbs to dry. The exact amount of time will depend on the humidity levels and other environmental conditions. Because thyme leaves a quite small, check on them regularly as they may dry quicker than expected. You will know that the leaves are sufficiently dry when they turn crispy and start crumbling. At this stage, you can take and store them in storage containers, and label and use them as you go. Stored this way, your thyme can last for up to two years. The one disadvantage of dried thyme is that it does not have as strong of a flavor as its fresh counterpart. But you will still get to enjoy it.
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Freezing

Another option for long-term storage option for thyme is freezing. You can do this by chopping the leaves up into small pieces, putting them in ice cube trays, and then filling them up with water all the way. Frozen thyme can store for a few months. If however, your thyme starts to turn brown before you use it, it is best to toss it as consuming it in that state may be unsafe.

You can also make herb oil cubes. Pick thyme leaves from the stems and place them in an ice cube tray. Cover the leaves with olive oil and store them in the freezer. These cubes will last for a few months and will be convenient for easy cooking as you can take one or two cubes and toss them into a pan to cook.

Conclusion – How to Harvest Thyme Without Killing the Plant

Thyme is an incredibly versatile herb that is so easy to grow and enjoy. To keep enjoying the long-term benefits of growing this plant, it is important to know how to harvest thyme without killing the plant. If you follow the advice provided in this article, you should confidently be able to grow, harvest and store your thyme so you can enjoy it for as long as you like, whether it is in or out of season.

We hope you found this article helpful.

Happy growing and harvesting!
Dr. Nyiko C. Mabasa
An aquaculture specialist and freelance writer. Passionate about anything sustainable living, such as growing your own food, and if you can do it in conjunction with fish farming, even better! I currently work as an aquaculture researcher where I can expand and share my knowledge and skills on aquaculture, crop farming and adding value to wastewater by using it to grow food products. I enjoy reading and learning as much as possible, and writing is another avenue for me to share the knowledge I gain with others. I want my writing to inspire people to try their hand at gardening, whether indoors or outdoors. You can even start by keeping a few houseplants indoors to help you gain a bit of confidence if you need to.
April 9, 2023