🌱 Grower Today

Author: Brian

  • Aglaonema Care Guide: How to Grow Chinese Evergreen

    Aglaonema Care Guide: How to Grow Chinese Evergreen

    Aglaonema, the Chinese evergreen is a low-maintenance and versatile houseplant that comes in wide varieties. This plant is great for adding a bit of color to any working or residential area if well taken care of. In this article, we will give you the best Aglaonema care guide that will help you to get the best out of these stunning plants.

    Some of the qualities that make Aglaonema such a popular and ideal houseplant include its unique, lush, and beautiful foliage. With these qualities, there is no reason why you would not consider having this plant in your living or working space. Another great advantage of this plant is that it adapts really well to different environmental conditions. If you want to know what these conditions are and how best to get your Chinese evergreen to thrive in them, keep reading.

    Aglaonema

    Agloanema, commonly known as the Chinese evergreen is a plant that is Native to the forest areas of Asia. Because this plant grows under canopies of taller plants where it is shielded from direct sunlight, it has adapted to low light conditions. This is one of the qualities that makes it such a good indoor plant.

    When planted indoors, they grow to sizes of 12-24 inches in height. They can be almost as wide as they are long and have lance-shaped leaves. Because it starts small and grows quite slowly, you can keep them on your desks for anywhere between 12-18 months before it gets too big.

    Few plants are as easy or easier to care for as the Chinese evergreen. Although it is adapted to low light conditions due to its natural habitat, it can also tolerate fluorescent lighting indoors if provided with it.

    There are hundreds of different varieties of Aglaonemas and they have different environmental requirements to thrive. It is therefore essential to know the particular variety of the one you have so you can give it just the right growing environments it requires.

    Aglaonemas Plant Care

    As with all other plants, there are ideal environmental conditions you need to maintain to keep them happy. We will discuss these below.

    Temperature

    Aglaonema prefers temperatures between 65-75°F degrees Fahrenheit to thrive. They can tolerate temperatures of about 10 degrees Fahrenheit outside this range without suffering any serious damage. Feed your Aglaonema monthly during the spring and summer, when the temperatures are within this range.

    Light exposure

    Due to the natural habitat of this plant, it prefers bright but indirect sunlight. Never expose it to full sun as it may cause leaf burn and may ultimately kill the plant.

    If you keep the plant indoors, artificial or fluorescent light will be enough to keep it alive and growing.

    The light tolerance levels vary between Aglaonema varieties. The darker green varieties of this plant can tolerate low light intensities. The ones with lighter-colored leaves, however, prefer bright and indirect light. An example of these light-leafed varieties is the Aglaonema Osaka.

    In general, the more colorful varieties of the plant, such as those with pinks, reds, and peaches need more light to maintain their vibrancy.

    Newer cultivars of Aglaonema have bright colors such as red and pink. These normally do not do well in low-light conditions. They can, however, survive in such conditions. But if you notice that they are losing their color, simply move them to an area with more light and you should notice their color should start to come back.

    Humidity

    Chinese evergreen plants prefer more humidity than most homes and indoor spaces can provide. This means that you should provide them with supplemental humidity. You can boost humidity levels in their environment by putting the plant in a pebble tray, using a humidifier, or putting the plants in a group with other plants.

    You can also try misting your plants once to a few times each week. This will only make a minor difference in terms of improving humidity levels. It does however offer the potential benefit of getting rid of pests that may be trying to infest your plant.

    Soil moisture and watering

    Chinese evergreen plants like to stay moist but not soaking wet. When you water the plant, make sure that the water drains completely each time so that it does not get waterlogged. Only water if the first two inches of the soil are dry.

    Overwatering can cause the plant leaves to turn yellow, and the roots of the plant to rot. Another sign of overwatering may be the yellowing of the tanks, as well as mushy stalks and leaves.

    Repotting

    To repot your plants, use good soil with peat and pine bark blended. Never use peat moss directly or by itself as it colds too much water and will not allow the roots of your plant to dry out as needed.

    Repot Chinese evergreens once every 12-18 months. Use the same vessel with new soil, and trim away some of the roots and leaves. Repotting should be done in the spring or summer months only, this is when they are actively growing and have the best chance of surviving the repot.

    If you are repotting a larger plant, do it every 18-24 months. Use a new pot that is about 2-4″ larger than the current one. This will give room for the plant to grow.

    Fertilizing

    Any good, balanced houseplant fertilizer will work for Aglaonema. Feed your Aglaonema monthly during the spring and summer while they are actively growing. Reduce the amount of fertilizer you give them in the fall and completely stop feeding in the winter months as the plants enter dormancy.

    Providing fertilizer to the plants in the winter when they do not need the nutrients for growth can lead to fertilizer buildup in the soil, which will burn the roots over time.

    Rotate your plant

    Rotate your Chinese evergreens from time to time so that they get all sides exposed to sunlight so the plant can grow evenly.

    Inspect your plants for pests

    When taking care of your plants, and dusting the leaves, make sure that you inspect especially the underside of the plant to check for any pests that need to be removed before they cause any damage to the plant.

    aglaonema plant care guide

    How to Grow Aglaonema

    Aglaonema are very low-maintenance plants that are great for even the novice gardener or plant parent. Here are some points on how to grow Chinese evergreens.

    1: Use well-draining soil to grow your plants

    They do really well in well-draining soils as they do not like to have their roots permanently submerged in water. You can add some perlite to the potting soil if you need better drainage.

    2: Provide them with indirect, bright light

    Never expose your Chinese evergreens to direct sunlight as it may burn the leaves.

    3: Let the soil dry between waterings

    This will give the plant roots room to breathe so the plant can grow efficiently. Water only when the top 2 inches of the soil has dried.

    4: Repot

    Repot the plant as required.

    5: Ideal temperature

    Maintain ideal temperatures of between 65-75°F degrees Fahrenheit, and high humidity for your plant to thrive.

    6: Fertilize the right time

    Fertilize your plants in the spring and summer months and never in the winter.

    Aglaonema care indoors is the same as outdoors. The environmental conditions that you should provide the plants are the same regardless of where they are planted. If they are indoors, however, it is easier to get the environmental conditions right as you can manipulate them.

    Types of Aglaonema

    There are many different varieties of Aglaonema that you can cultivate. In the past, there were only green and cream varieties available. However, there are many different Aglaonema shades that you can find. There are more colorful Aglaonema in colors such as pink, red, and peach. Here are five of the most common varieties;

    • Aglaonema Commutatum (Emerald Beauty) – also known as the Maria. It is one of the older varieties and has dark green leaves with light green stripes.
    • Aglaonema (Sparkling Sarah) – has pink stems and midribs. It also has pink mottling on the green leaves of the plant.
    • Ruby Red – The leaves of this Chinese evergreen variety are a beautiful bright red and have stems with a shade of pink.
    • Aglaonema Commutatum (Silver Bay) – The leaves of this variety have a light silver leaf variegation.
    • Siam Aurora Red – has ed stems and midribs. The leaves also have a red frame.

    Problems Associated With Chinese Evergreen Plants

    While these plants are some of the easiest to take care of, they can have their fair share of issues that you should be aware of in case you ever have to deal with them.

    The number one issue is susceptibility to pest infestations. Chinese evergreen plans are susceptible to spider mites, mealybugs, and scale. They get infested most of the time because they are not healthy and stressed. Opportunistic bigs use this window to destroy them.

    Keeping your plants in their best health will help you to avoid this. You can also use this leaf wellness spray to prevent infestations.

    Yellowing of leaves is another common occurrence. This usually signals that your plants are stressed. Investigate which of their environmental conditions are not ideal and remedy it as soon as possible. Your plants should return to good health in no time.

    Dropping leaves or leaf curls are other indicators of stress on plants. This can be a consequence of leaf burn from direct sunlight. If you notice this, move your plants away from sunlight.

    Unfortunately, Chinese evergreen plants are toxic to dogs, cats, and horses. If you have any pets in your house, you will need to keep them out of their reach.

    Conclusion – Aglaonema Care Guide: How to Grow Chinese Evergreen

    Aglaonema are such low-maintenance plants that anyone can keep them in their home or office. So whether you are a novice or an experienced hardener, these plants can be a great addition to your space.

    We hope that you found this Aglaonema care guide useful and that you will be well on your way to growing and maintaining these beautiful plants.

    The most important thing to do is provide them with the kind of environmental conditions that mimic their natural habitat.  These are; high humidity, moderate temperatures, and indirect bright light.

    Happy growing!

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  • Aphids on Tomato Plants: How to Naturally Get Rid of Them

    Aphids on Tomato Plants: How to Naturally Get Rid of Them

    If you have ever grown tomatoes in your garden, you will know that tomatoes are very susceptible to aphid infestations. These little critters can cause incredible damage to your crop if you do not take care of them early. In this article, we will be talking about aphids on tomato plants: How to naturally get rid of them.

    If you have kept tomatoes for long enough, there’s a high likelihood of finding aphids on the plants. Aphids are common, even in an organic garden. They can quickly take over the garden and can be frustrating to deal with. If you are faced with this problem, do not despair. We have a lot of tips, tricks, and control methods that we will give to you.

    What Are Aphids?

    Aphids are small pests that belong to the family Aphididae. Worldwide, there are more than 4000 species of aphids. They occur mostly in moderate and warm climates.

    Aphids have tiny bodies that are soft and pear-shaped. A lot of them are similar in size, which is about an eighth of an inch; aphids vary in size. They come in different colors. Depending on the type, they can be pale green, or black aphids on tomato plants, red, yellow, or white aphids on tomato plants.

    They usually occur in clusters at the base of leaves and stems of plants. They then bite into these plant parts and suck out the liquids inside.

    Tomato plants usually get infested with potato aphids. This type is usually red aphids on tomato plants. Tomatoes can also get infested with peach aphids, which appear as green bugs on tomato plants.

    Early in the spring, aphids migrate to tomato fields from hosts in the wild, and then they establish their colonies on the plants. Aphids have a very high rate of reproduction. A single aphid can easily lay up to a maximum of 100 eggs in its lifetime. Because of this, colonies of aphids increase very quickly in population.

    Aphids in small populations are not a very big problem, however, if they are left untreated, they can completely destroy your crop.

    Symptoms of Aphid Infested Tomatoes

    Once aphids are present in high numbers in an area, they develop wings that help them spread to form colonies in other areas with susceptible plants, such as a tomato garden. They may be hard to spot if you are not paying attention to them. There are some symptoms that you can look out for.

    Because aphides like to colonize the bottom parts of leaves, they can easily suck up the sap from the leaves unnoticed. This will cause the leaves to wilt and turn yellow. New growth on the plant may have become stunted growth. The result of this is that the tomato yields will be reduced and the fruits may become deformed.

    Stunted leaves with a deformed appearance or curled edges are a clear sign of aphid damage on tomato leaves. When these pests suck the sap and nutrients from the leaves and stems of the plant, the leaves will not grow properly.

    Aphids produce honeydew, a clear and sticky substance that coats the areas that the aphids have been on. Because honeydew is sugary, it attracts ants. If you notice populations of ants on your tomatoes, it could be a sign that you have an aphid infestation.

    If the leaves and/or stems of your tomato plants appear black, it could be another sign that aphids have been infested. The honeydew produced by aphids can be a haven for sooty mold which paints the plant black.

    Other symptoms of aphid-infested tomatoes include the wilting of plant stems from the loss of sap by the aphids feeding on them.

    Although aphids are noticeable to the naked eye, it’s a fact that they can still be very small and difficult to see. The signs and symptoms listed above can help you identify when your tomato plants have been infested so that you can take care of the issue before it becomes a big problem.

    Do Aphids Like Tomato Plants?

    Tomatoes are great at attracting aphids into gardens. They especially enjoy sucking the sap from young plant leaves and fruits.

    While aphids are generally attracted to tomatoes, they are not going to cause any damage if they are in small populations. But as soon as the infestation increases and takes over, the destruction of the plant tissues will begin and can eventually kill the plants.

    In cases where aphids do not kill the plant, they can stunt the growth of plants. This would be a better scenario for the outcome of an infestation. Usually, an aphid infestation kills the plants by overfeeding the sap and transmitting diseases. Aphids feed on the plant sap by sucking it out with their piercing and sucking mouthparts.

    Tomatoes are quite resilient to large numbers of aphids without suffering much damage. In severe cases, however, symptoms of damage such as leaf curling and stunted plant growth may be observed. The reduced leaf area will expose the fruit to sun scald, which will ultimately reduce yield.

    Aphids are vectors of certain plant viruses. This means that even if they are not in high enough populations to damage the plants by overfeeding on the sap, they can transport certain viruses that may cause damage or even kill the plants. It is therefore best to take care of an aphid problem because it causes irreversible damage.

    How to Get Rid of Aphids on Tomato Plants

    Fortunately, there are numerous options you can choose from to get rid of aphids on your tomato plants. There are biological, cultural, physical, and chemical methods you can use. But if you want to be safe and not introduce any potential threats to your crop, it is best to stick to natural options and biological methods such as;

    Manual removal

    If you spot aphids on your tomato plants while they are still only a few, you can simply pick them and put them in a bucket filled with soapy water to kill them. Check the undersides of tomato leaves to make sure that you get all the pests off.

    After the first time picking off the aphids, repeat the inspection daily for a few days to check whether or not you may need to take further steps to get rid of them.

    Water spray

    A water spray with a garden hose is another great way of getting rid of aphids. Use a sharp but gentle blast of water to knock them off the tomato leaves and stems. This will surely decrease the aphid populations. Check every few days again to determine whether you need to repeat the process.

    Be careful when using a water hose as it may also knock off beneficial insects from your plants, and may break the branches of the plant, especially the young ones.

    Bug repellent

    Instead of buying store-brand bug repellents, you can use garlic, rosemary, peppermint, water, and dish soap to make your own at home. These are all-natural ingredients and will safely get rid of aphids from your tomatoes, as they are gentle.

    This mix does not kill the bugs, but what smells will mask the scent of the tomato as the host plant so they will not be able to locate it.

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    Water and dish soap

    A mixture of water and dish soap will also work fine to repel aphids from your tomato plants. Mix a few teaspoons of liquid dish soap with one quart of water. Simply spray this mixture on the plant leaves and it will kill the bugs by suffocating them.

    Introduce predatory insects

    The introduction of predatory insects into a garden that aphids have infested is one of the most efficient ways to get rid of or control them. Many people introduce insects such as ladybugs and lacewings into their gardens.

    Birds such as hummingbirds are another great predator of aphids as they love to snack on them. Invite birds into your garden by strategically placing bird feeders in various places and they will help you out a lot.

    Diatomaceous earth

    Diatomaceous earth (DE) is a powder made from fossilized algae that are rich in silica. It can be deadly to aphids. The edges of the DE grains cut into the soft bodies of aphids, causing them to dry up and die.

    Sprinkle some DE onto both the soil and your tomato plants to kill aphids. Be careful to select food-grade DE when your purchase it from the store. It is safe for humans and can be used on plants, unlike filter-grade DE which is not. Only apply DE early in the morning or later in the evening when the dew has dried, as it does not work when wet.

    Neem oil

    Neem oil is a natural bug repellent that is useful against many different types of bugs and insects. It works similarly to insecticidal soap, that is by suffocating the aphids when sprayed on them. It also works systemically by interfering with the hormone receptors in the insects, hence it is referred to as a broad-spectrum insecticide.

    Alcohol sprays

    Rubbing alcohol is an easily available, affordable, and simple solution to aphid infestations. Mix equal parts water and alcohol in a sprayer bottle, add a teaspoon of soap to make the mixture more effective, and spray it on your infested plants.

    Humus

    Adding humus as a soil amendment around your tomato plants will control infestations, as aphids do not like it.

    Pruning

    If you notice that only certain leaves of the tomat0 plant are heavily infested, and perhaps have started showing signs of damage, pruning them off may be the best way to get rid of the clusters of aphids and will stop them from breeding.

    In summary, natural options such as rubbing alcohol and neem oil are great products to use for treating aphid infestations on tomato plants. If these are unavailable to you, mix a few teaspoons of liquid dish soap with one quart of water. Always make sure to check the undersides of tomato leaves to get rid of aphids efficiently.

    How to Prevent Aphids on Tomatoes

    As you probably know, prevention is better than cure. Instead of waiting until you get an infestation to deal with, there are certain proactive steps you can take to prevent or minimize the risk of getting an aphid infestation on your tomatoes;

    Healthy soil and healthy plants

    Insects and other pests prey on weak plants that are growing on low-quality or degraded soil. The best way to avoid this is to build up healthy soil in your garden by mulching or adding organic matter so that there is a constant availability of nutrients to your plants.

    Companion planting

    Planting fragrant flowers and herbs alongside tomatoes can help control pests. Plants such as marigolds and basil are great insect and pest repellents that can ask the scent of tomatoes, hiding and protecting them from aphids.

    Sticky traps

    Aphids are attracted to bright colors such as yellow. You can purchase yellow sticky boards and place them around your tomatoes. The aphids will get attracted to them and will get trapped before they get to the plants.

    Attract more aphid predators

    Aphids have natural predators such as lady beetles, syrphid flies, and lacewings. If you can find a way to grow these insects in your garden, they will do a great job of helping you out with pest control.

    Setting up birdhouses and feeders in the garden before there is any noticeable infestation may be a great idea t keep it at bay.

    Row covers

    Place row covers over your tomato plants immediately after planting them. This will help to protect them from extreme weather conditions and changes that could potentially hurt the growth and health of their plants, making them susceptible to opportunistic pests.

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    Conclusion – Aphids on Tomato Plants

    Aphids can cause great destruction to tomato plants if left unchecked. It is therefore best to tackle them as soon as you notice them in your garden before they cause devastating that they are very well capable of in large populations. Another great way to deal with a possible infestation is by being proactive and placing systems and measures in place that will prevent infestations from taking place.

    Use the tips and tricks provided in this article to get rid of aphid infestation problems in your tomato plants so you can get a good harvest.

    Happy growing!

  • Tomatoes Not Turning Red? 14 Tips for Ripening Tomatoes

    Tomatoes Not Turning Red? 14 Tips for Ripening Tomatoes

    Are your tomatoes not turning red despite being big enough to be ripe and have been in the ground for long enough? This is a common frustration that many tomato gardeners face. Do not despair, there are ways to diagnose this problem and solutions to it. In this article, we will give you 14 tips for ripening tomatoes.

    Tomatoes are some of the most common and versatile vegetables that are used in every household. Fresh garden tomatoes are some of the best and freshest you can ever taste. So it can be discouraging when your tomatoes don’t ripen when you expect them to. Keep reading this article to learn all about tomatoes not turning red.

    Tomatoes

    Tomatoes are described as edible berries of the plant Solanum lycopersicum, which is commonly referred to as the tomato. The tomato plant originates from South America, Mexico, and Central America.

    Many different types and varieties of tomatoes are used for different purposes, such as cooking, salads, pickling, etc.

    Indeterminate tomato plant varieties are perennials in their natural habitat, however, they can be cultivated as annuals. Depending on the cultivar, plants can grow up to 1/2-4 inches in width.

    Tomatoes can come in different colors too, with most of them turning red when ripe. As a result, it can be quite frustrating when tomatoes don’t turn red when you expect them to.

    Why Are My Tomatoes Not Turning Red?

    There are different reasons why tomatoes are not turning red.

    The first and most obvious reason is that they may not be ripe yet. Tomatoes have a long growing season. Depending on the variety, they may take anywhere between 60 to more than 100 days from the day they are transplanted to when they are ready for harvest. If you are not sure what the exact timeframe for the ripening of your plants is, check the packaging, as this information is usually provided.

    Another reason is that some tomatoes are just not red when ripe, so they can not be expected to turn red even when they are ready for harvesting. Some tomatoes have unique colors. Examples of these include;

    • Sungold cherry, garden peach, and Persimmon, which are yellow when ripe
    • Black krim, which is a beautiful black color
    • Green zebra, which is a modern heirloom tomato that is known for its lime green color.

    While these tomatoes have unusual colors, they are great to grow if you want to try something different.

    As tomatoes mature in the summer, they can become big and overgrown. When it happens, the plants direct most of their energy toward producing more leaves and flowers, instead of ripening the tomatoes.

    The number one cause of tomatoes not turning red when the time is right is temperature. Regular tomatoes will not turn red if the temperatures for their ripening are off. Temperatures above 85 degrees Fahrenheit are too high, and anything below 50 degrees Fahrenheit is too low. The bigger risk of the two, however, is the high temperatures that can often occur during a heatwave.

    Outside the temperature range of 50-85 degrees Fahrenheit, the tomato plant is unable to produce enough carotene and lycopene that cause the color change for the ripening process. The best temperature for tomato ripening is 70-85 degrees Fahrenheit.

    Although tomatoes love heat, too much of it can be bad. Extended periods of heat stress can cause plants to stop developing and this may prevent the tomatoes not to turn red. Too much cold temperatures stop the production of the carotene that is needed for the ripening of the tomato. This usually happens at the end of the growing season.

    Excessive watering and feeding of the plants can also be bad. If tomato plants are provided with more nutrients than they need, it can cause them to direct their energy towards producing new growth instead of ripening the fruit.

    When Do Tomatoes Turn Red?

    Tomatoes have a long growing season. To be a tomato gardener, you must have a lot of patience. Tomatoes will turn red when ripe, provided all their growing and ripening conditions are being met. If you are unsure when exactly this time should be for the particular variety of tomatoes in your garden, check the packaging that the seeds or seedlings came in. The growth period of the tomatoes should be given there. If you do not have access to the packaging, a quick Google search might be helpful to estimate the approximate time you should expect your tomatoes to ripen.

    Generally, most tomatoes take between 60 to just over 100 days to ripen. This is between the day they are transplanted into the soil and the day they are ready to harvest.  The speed with which they ripen will depend on variety, environmental conditions, and the size of the tomato fruit. For example, cherry tomatoes ripen faster than larger tomatoes.

    To get them to ripen at the right time, you have to plant them in the soil at the right time. The best time to do so is to start the seeds about 6-8 weeks before the last frost date.

    Keep in mind that not all tomatoes will turn red. Some tomatoes are yellow, orange, purple, or even green when ripe. Know what the variety of the tomatoes you are planting is, so that you know what they should look like when they are ripe.

    What to Do When Your Tomatoes Are Not Ripening

    Both larger and small tomatoes such as cherry tomatoes not turning red can be due to various reasons, as we have already discussed. Here are 14 tips for ripening tomatoes when they won’t ripen.

    1. Stop the plant from growing

    One of the major reasons this happens is the result of overgrown plants. This then causes the plant to divert more energy into producing new plant growth, instead of toward the fruit and seed. One way to deal with this is to stop the plant from inefficiently utilizing energy. Do this by pinching or cutting off the top point of the plant that is growing, so that the plant will not get any bigger.

    Also, cut off any new flowers that have not produced any fruit yet. They will never be able to do so as there is not enough time left in the growing season.

    2. Cut off the outside shoots

    Tomatoes are very strong growing plants and produce a lot of foliage. Even if you keep trimming them, shoots keep reappearing. You should always pinch off or cut off any side shots that develop after the plant has matured. Always keep an eye out for them and remove them as soon as they appear. This will save the plant from using energy for growth, which it should rather direct towards fruit ripening.

    3. Trim back plant foliage

    Like all other plants, tomatoes need light for good growth and health. If there is too much foliage that covers the plant and minimizes the amount of light that it gets, the plant will not grow very strong. Trim off as much of the foliage as you can without damaging the plant. This will enable the plant to get direct sunlight that will warm it up, helping to speed up ripening.

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    4. Provide heat 

    If you can provide your plants with some form of heat, it will help ripen them. If you can install grow lights that can increase the temperatures even slightly, the ripening process would speed up.

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    5. Move plants to an indoor area

    Tomato plants are great for growing indoors. If your tomatoes were planted in a movable grow bed or pot, moving them indoors where you can control the temperature to make them more suitable for ripening will greatly benefit the plant.

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    6. Cut back on fertilizing

    Excessive fertilizing of tomato plants can do more harm than good. Ideally, tomatoes should only be fertilized about 2-3 times during their entire growth cycle. Do not fertilize the plants when they are close to harvest, and this will cause them to direct energy towards growth and not ripening.

    7. Reduce watering

    Excessive watering can also delay tomato fruit ripening. Reduce the rate of plant watering by only watering when you notice signs of wilting on the plant. This can help to push the plant towards fruit ripening.

    8. Wait for cooler temperatures

    If your tomatoes are not turning red because of high temperatures, you may just have to wait until the weather cools and ripening resumes.

    9. Hang the plant upside down

    Uproot whole plants when tomatoes won’t ripen. Hang the plant upside down in a warm and dry room where it will be protected from extreme temperatures and frost. The fruit can ripen as the plant dies. When trying out this method, try to get some of the soil out with the root.

    10. Put the tomatoes in a bag with a banana

    If you still can’t get your tomatoes to ripen, try this trick of putting them in a bag with a ripe banana. The ripe banana releases ethylene which is a great promoter of tomato fruit ripening. If you choose to try this method, check your tomatoes regularly for any sign of rot. If you notice that any are starting to rot, remove them before they damage the others in the bag.

    11. Put the tomatoes in a bag with a ripe apple

    This method is the same way as the previous method described, just with a different fruit.

    12. Pick individual tomatoes to ripen

    You can also pick tomatoes individually to ripen them by placing them on window sills, and they will eventually turn red.

    13. Plant the next crop of tomatoes on time

    As more of a proactive way to ensure that your tomatoes ripen, plant them at the right time so that they have enough time in the growing season to grow and ripen before the temperature gets bad.

    14. Pick the green tomatoes

    If all efforts of ripening your tomatoes fail, you can pick them green. Green tomatoes are great for pickling.

    Can Tomatoes Ripen Off the Plant?

    Normally and ideally, plants should be left on the plant until they ripen, and then they can be picked off, However, some conditions occur that may require you to pick them off the vine and attempt to ripen them indoors. These factors are usually associated with environmental conditions such as temperature and frost.

    You can pick unripe tomatoes and ripen them off the plant, provided that you can give them good ripening conditions as described above.

    Why Are My Tomatoes Not Ripening? – Summary

    Tomatoes are very easy plants to grow, as long as you know the variety and their ideal growing conditions. Key points to remember are that tomatoes won’t turn red if it’s too hot (above 85°F) or too cold (below 50°F), If your tomatoes do not grow well, they may be stressed and this may affect ripening.   Smaller tomatoes are the result of stressed tomato plants.

    Tomatoes produce carotene and lycopene which will promote ripening at the end of the growing season. Make sure that your plants are provided with good growing conditions so that they can produce enough carotene and lycopene.

    Tomatoes are slow to ripen on the vine because they are overfed, overwatered, overgrown, or the weather is too cold. Adjust your maintenance schedules to get the best out of your plants.

    We hope this article provided you with enough information, tips, and tricks that you will use to ripen your tomatoes that may not be turning red on their own.

    Happy growing!

  • How Many Potatoes Will Grow Per Plant (and From ONE Seed)

    How Many Potatoes Will Grow Per Plant (and From ONE Seed)

    The potato is one of the world’s most commonly grown, consumed, and versatile vegetables. Its ease of growth contributes to its popularity. Knowing how many potatoes will grow per plant is crucial to knowing how your plants will perform and to deciding how many you should plant to fulfill your needs.

    How many potatoes will grow per plant will depend on certain factors such as the type or variety of potatoes being grown, environmental conditions, and how well their growing needs are being met.

    Keep reading to know how many potato plants to plant to ensure that you harvest enough to last you and your family until the next growing season.

    How Many Potatoes Per Plant?

    How many potatoes per plant can you expect from your harvest? Under ideal growing conditions, the average number of potatoes a potato plant can produce per plant is between three and eight. Different varieties may produce fewer or more potatoes than others. The tubers’ sizes may also differ, ranging from small to extra large.

    If you want to provide for a family, about 40 potato plants may be sufficient for the year. If these plants all grow healthily until harvest, you should expect a harvest of around 125 pounds of potatoes.

    How Many Potatoes Grow From One Potato Seed?

    Seed potatoes vary significantly in size. A small-sized seed potato is planted whole, and a single potato can be produced per plant. However, Larger seed potatoes can be cut into halves or quarters, grown, and produced between two and four potato plants.

    Planting seed potatoes whole will usually produce more vigorous plants. It is, therefore, unnecessary to cut the seed potato unless it is huge.

    A single-seed potato that grows well will produce one plant, and this one plant will produce between 8 and 10 full-sized potatoes. In addition, each potato plant is likely to have a couple of smaller baby potatoes as well.

    Do Different Potato Varieties Produce the Same Number of Potatoes Per Seed?

    How many potatoes per plant seed can differ between different cultivars? To find out how many potatoes your particular variety will produce, read the plant descriptions on the packaging or the resources available online.

    However, the average yield per potato plant listed assumes that ideal growing conditions are met for that particular potato variety. If the conditions are not ideal, the plant may produce fewer potatoes or nothing at all.

    Ideal Growing Conditions for Optimal Potato Yield

    While different potato cultivars will have different specific environmental conditions for maximum yield, here are some things you can do to help ensure that you get optimal productivity out of your potatoes:

    1. Planting distance

    Potatoes are tubers that grow underground. Because of this, they need plenty of space to grow, so it is important to provide them with sufficient room.

    If potatoes are planted too closely, young tubers will not grow as well as you would expect them to, resulting in a poor yield.

    Another reason not to plant them too closely is that they will compete for nutrients, further negatively impacting their growth.

    Potato plants should be planted 12 -14 inches apart and have 3 feet between rows to achieve the best growth and optimum yield. If you plan to harvest your potatoes at the baby stage, however, you can plant them closer to each other, as they will require less space to grow.

    If you have adhered to this recommended planting distance, you should not have to worry about the possibility of them crowding up in the soil. They will adjust themselves and spread out as needed, provided the soil they are planted in is right. The plant roots and tubers will grow well.

    2. Planting depth

    How deep you plant your seed potatoes will have a massive impact on the eventual yield. Seed potatoes need to have enough soil covering them so that no part of the tuber is left exposed. If they do not get completely covered and are exposed to the sun, they will turn green due to the solanine in them. If these potatoes are consumed, they will cause solanine poisoning. Green potatoes should not be eaten and must be immediately discarded. This will lead to a loss of crop yield.

    The best depth to plant your potatoes is 4-6 inches. Start with this depth and hill them up as the plants continue to grow taller to keep them protected.

    You can hill your potatoes up by mounding the soil around them with a spade, hoe, or other implement that you have. Hill them up to within 2-3 inches of the plant foliage. Start hilling them when the plants have attained a height of 8-10 inches, and repeat the process when they get new growth of 8-10 inches.

    The process of hilling your plants will help to provide them with sufficient soil for adequate growth and expansion of tubers underground. The higher level of soil will also help to support the growing foliage on top of the ground. If your plants are not provided with enough soil, they will be exposed to the sun, which will diminish your crop yield.

    3. Soil type

    Potato tubers need to be planted in loose soil for them to grow well and expand underground. Using loose, soft, and well-draining soil will help to increase your potato yield. Potatoes require plenty of space to spread their roots and grow large potatoes.

    Growing potatoes in compacted soil will produce only small potatoes as they will struggle to push against the dirt to increase in size.

    4. Soil fertility

    Soil fertility is an important aspect of increasing your potato yield. Before your potatoes are planted, apply a suitable fertilizer to the soil. It is important to use a fertilizer that is specific for potatoes when you first plant them and mid-way through the season so that they get the boost of nutrients they need to produce as many potatoes as they can.

    Use a 5-10-10 fertilizer in the planting rows and carefully work it into the soil. Follow the instructions on the packaging container. You must also side-dress the potatoes with the same fertilizer before the first hilling.

    5. Soil moisture

    Potatoes need adequate, but not too much watering. Potatoes need about 1 to 2 inches of rain per week. If your area does not receive this amount of rain, you will need t give your potatoes supplemental water.

    Water your potatoes enough to saturate the soil up to the level of the roots and tubers. Water each time the first two inches of the soil feel dry.

    Going for long periods without watering or adequate water will lead to malformations of your potato tubers, which can lead to poor yields. This is because insufficient moisture will cause the potato tubers to grow slowly if they even grow at all.

    If you resumed watering your potatoes or got plenty of rain after a period of no rain, it will cause the tubers to grow rapidly and split or develop malformations.

    To get the best yield out of your potatoes, and get the best shapes, you will need to water them regularly during their growing season.

    potatoes per plant

    6. Pests

    Pests can have a detrimental impact on your potato crop yield. Treat them as soon as you notice them before they have any significant damage to the plants. Insect pests such as the Colorado potato beetle can completely destroy the foliage of the plants. If this happens, the growth of tubers underground will stop because the plants will not have enough support. Eventually, you will have reduced yield and small potatoes.

    7. Sunlight exposure

    Like all other plants, potato plants require sunlight to carry out photosynthesis. Without sufficient sunlight, the growth of the plant will slow down and result in your potato yield is poor.

    Make sure you plant your potatoes in an area that receives at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight each day, for the entire duration of the growing cycle. The plants can and will grow with less light, however, their growth will not be as good as it would be if they received more light. So to get the best growth, health, and ultimately good yield from your potatoes, provide them with plenty of sunlight.

    8. Proper hilling

    Hilling your potatoes at the time they are first planted, and one or two more times during their growing season will help improve crop yield. Hilling provides support for the growing plant foliage, which will force it to grow upwards toward the sunlight and consequently increase the growth of tubers.

    9. Choosing the right potato variety

    There are hundreds of potato varieties to choose from that are readily available from local seed stores and online shops. Before you choose the variety to grow. Do a bit of research around it to find out if it is suited to your climate, or if you will be able to provide it with the growing conditions it requires.

    It is also helpful to know information such as the length of the growing season, the amount of space they need for growth, specific uses of that particular potato, and as well as resistance or susceptibility to disease and parasites.

    Potato varieties such as Pontiac Red, Kennebec White, and Purple Majesty are all great varieties of potatoes that consistently produce high yields of potatoes. If you are you do not know much about potato varieties, you can begin by researching these three to see which one would be best suited to your environment.

    10. Plant your potatoes at the right time

    Potato plants have an ideal time that they should be planted to get the best chance of survival. You should plant them when the soil warms up to about 45 degrees Fahrenheit. In most areas, that would be about two weeks after the last frost date.

    While looking at the timing, it is also key to monitor the soil moisture content. If you have had a wet spring, wait a few weeks until the ground has dried up a bit. If the soil is too wet, it can cause the potato tubers to rot.

    If you have no choice but to plant potatoes earlier than this, look for the varieties that mature earlier, as they are better able to withstand cold conditions. You can plant these up to six weeks before the last first date.

    How Many Potatoes Does a Potato Plant Produce?

    Typically, a single potato plant will produce anywhere between 3 and 5 pounds of potatoes. This may be enough to feed a family of four people twice.

    Keep in mind, however, that different varieties of potatoes will produce different numbers of potatoes. In addition to this, the growing conditions such as sunlight, nutrient provision, adequate growing space, and a good irrigation schedule have to be maintained well to achieve optimum growth.

    Can I Use Store-Bought Potatoes as Seeds?

    Technically, yes. Store-bought potatoes can be used as seeds to grow potatoes. You will have figured this out when you left potatoes out for too long and they started sprouting. If you plant them in the ground during the right growing season, you should harvest some potatoes.

    However, potato growth experts advise against using shop potatoes as seeds. They recommend only using certified potatoes to plant in your garden.

    The reasons for this include that potato growers put sprout inhibitors to slow down the rate of budding when the potatoes are being shipped, and while they are at the store. This may cause the potatoes to grow weak or not produce any growth when planted.

    Another reason that you should not use shop potatoes as seeds is that they often contain a lot of microorganisms and diseases. These can easily spread to plants and completely destroy all other plants in your garden. Seed potatoes that are certified will come with a guarantee that they are free of any diseases or microorganisms that can destroy the potato and other crops.

    Certified seed potatoes are usually strong and healthy, and have a higher chance of having vigorous growth, producing large and strong potatoes, and ultimately a good yield.

    How Do I Know That My Potatoes Are Growing

    Because potatoes grow underground, it may be difficult, especially for new and inexperienced growers to be able to tell what stage their plants are at. It can be difficult to tell whether or not your potato tubers are growing. There are signs that you can look out for.

    Flowering is a great indicator that your potatoes have started growing. If you want to harvest your potatoes in the baby stage, you can go ahead and do so at this point. After the flowers have come and gone, the foliage at the top of the soil will die back. This is so that the plant will start directing its energy towards growing the tubers larger. If you want to harvest full-sized potatoes, you should do so after the plants have died back.

    Another way to know that your potatoes have matured is when the stems of the plants have started to go yellow and die off. This usually happens at the end of summer, or early in the fall.

    If you still want a bit of reassurance that your potatoes are ready to harvest, you can dig a small test spot and get a few tubers out to gauge if they are at your desired harvest size.

    Quick Summary – How Many Potatoes Per Plant (and From ONE Seed)

    Different varieties of potatoes will produce different amounts of potatoes at harvest time. You will need to read the information on the seed packaging to get an idea of how many potatoes per plant your particular variety will produce. Generally, with potatoes, however, if the plant is healthy, you can expect to dig up about five or six full-size potatoes per plant.

    Potato plants yield from five to 10 potatoes per plant depending on the variety, climate, and whether the growing conditions of the plants are met. Usually, a single potato plant produces anywhere between 3 and 5 pounds of potatoes. Knowing this can help you to plan how many plants to plant to you can have enough potatoes until the next growing season.

    Follow the guidelines and tips provided in this article to increase your potato plant harvest. Remember that a single plant has the potential to produce between three and four pounds of potatoes, and a single seed potato will produce above four or five plants. Start from there and then plan how many potato plants to plant for an adequate supply.

    We hope this article has given you all the information you need to know on how many potatoes per plant you can expect from your potato plant. Happy growing!

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  • When & How to Harvest Rosemary

    When & How to Harvest Rosemary

    The smell and taste of freshly harvested rosemary from the garden have got to be the most refreshing things you can experience. While the process of harvesting is very simple and easy, it is important to know when & how to harvest rosemary the right way so that your plant keeps producing for you to have a long and continuous harvest.

    Rosemary is a cut-and-come-again type of crop, meaning the more of it you pick, the more you will be able to harvest. This is provided you do it properly. If you want to learn how to harvest rosemary properly, and get tips on what to do with it afterward, keep reading.

    The Rosemary Plant

    Rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus) is a perennial herb that can be grown in so many different climates all year round even if they are flowering, as long as the environmental conditions are right.

    The rosemary plant is a shrub with fragrant, evergreen, needle-shaped leaves. It can also have white, pink, purple, or blue flowers depending on where it is in its growth cycle. It is native to the Mediterranean region and will survive the winter in warmer climates.

    Rosemary however very sensitive to extremely cold conditions such as freezing temperatures. If you have this kind of weather approaching, you might need to harvest all your rosemary before the cold kills it. Either pull the entire plant from the soil or gather the leaves and young stems. You can also just cut the plant all the way back.

    If you have plants that are sure to withstand the winter cold, or you live in a place with a warm climate, having one or two will usually be enough for you to use throughout the summer and still have enough to store for use through the fall and winter months.

    Rosemary is a herb that makes a great companion for many vegetable dishes such as cabbage, broccoli, and carrots. If you fancy growing and enjoying this herb, learn how to harvest rosemary without killing the plant.

    How to Harvest Rosemary Without Killing the Plant

    Rosemary has two parts of the plant that you can harvest, these are the new tips or sprigs, and the leave. Both parts of the plant are edible.

    Most of the flavor and aromatic oils of rosemary are found in the leaves of the plant. This makes them ideal for use in cooking, making tea, and many other uses. The tender tips of the stems are the best ones to use for cooking. The older ones tend to get woody and tough and are best used to infuse flavors rather than eating.

    If your rosemary plant is newly planted, you will need to have to wait until it has grown a bit of length and start to bush out before you start harvesting it.

    Step-by-step guide

    Step 1: Harvest the plant at the right time

    The best time to harvest rosemary is in the spring and summer when the plant is actively growing. Avoid harvesting it in the winter season, when it is dormant.

    Step 2: Harvets new shots that are at least 8 inches long

    New shoots are best for cooking as they have a lot of flavors and are tender. Shoots that are still too young need to be given time to grow so that you can have a continuous harvest.

    Step 3: Cut 3/4 of the plant stems at the maximum

    Never harvest all the stems of your plant at any one time. Leaving the plant with some stems will allow it to regenerate.

    Step 4: Leave at least a quarter of the branch intact with as many leaves as possible

    Leaving branches with some leaves will help your plant to keep producing.

    Step 5: Water the plant thoroughly

    While harvesting your rosemary, make sure that you keep watering it so that it can continue to put out new shoots.

    Step 6: Give the plant some fertilizer

    Giving fertilizer to the plant will help it to recover after it gets harvested.

    Step 7: Monitor your plant for any spots or signs of unusual development or stress

    Keeping a careful eye on your plant will help you to quickly notice any unusual signs on your plant so you can remedy what you can to keep your plant healthy.

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    How to Cut Rosemary From Plant

    Most gardeners cut off full sprigs, and then strip off the leaves depending on the intended use. To strip off the leaves, simply run your fingers along the length of the stem from top to bottom. You can also just pinch them off with your fingers.

    Instead of cutting off full sprigs of rosemary, you can also just take individual needles from the plant as needed.

    However, you choose to harvest rosemary, always cut the tender, new tips or stems. The best ones to harvest are those that are 8 inches or longer. Identify those and cut off the top 2-3 inches with sharp pruning shears.

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    How often you harvest your rosemary will depend on a few factors. These factors include the age or size of your plant and how much you harvest at a time.

    If you are cutting a few sprigs here and there, you can harvest as often as you like with no fear of overharvesting your plant. If you take a large harvest at a time, about 1/3 of the plant’s total size at any one time, the plant will definitely need more time to recover.

    Always use sharp pruners or kitchen scissors to cut off the stems instead of pulling or tugging on the branches. And be careful not to harvest too much at a time or your plant may not be able to recover.

    Only pick the healthy stems that have green leaves. If you notice any yellowing, browning, or dry needles, do not harvest them as they may not taste good. You can however cut them off and give the plant a chance to grow healthy foliage.

    Regularly trim the plant even if you do not harvest for use. Doing this every two weeks will help to encourage new plant growth. You can freeze some of your trimmed-off rosemary for long-term storage in an airtight container or ziploc bag.

    When to Harvest Rosemary

    The best time to pick rosemary is in the spring and summer when the plant is actively putting on new growth. It is best to pick the sprigs in the morning after the dew has evaporated before the afternoon heat has set in.

    As soon as your plant is established and is putting out new growth, you can harvest it during these time periods. Look out for supple green stems emerging from the already existing branches to know when the plant is ready for harvest.

    Are Rosemary Flowers Edible?

    Rosemary buds are tiny flowers that appear when the rosemary plant is in bloom. These flowers are edible and can be used for many different things.

    They have a slightly sweeter flavor than the leaves. They are perfect for garnishing various dishes and adding colors to salads. They have a similar flavor and aroma to the leaves and stems, only taste a bit sweeter.

    What to Do With Freshly Harvested Rosemary

    Refrigeration

    Freshly picked rosemary can be enjoyed right away but chopping it up and adding it to soups, stews, sauces, or even roasts, or infused into other foods. Any leftovers can be safely stored in a small glass or vase and kept in the fridge for use within a few days. If it is whole sprigs, keep the ends submerged in clean water and they can last for up to two weeks.

    Refrigeration is a good short-term storage solution and will keep rosemary fresh for about 2-3 weeks. There is no need to wash the sprigs for refrigeration, it might actually help them store longer. Simply clean them with a damp towel. Place your cleaned sprigs in a container and store them in the crisp drawer of the refrigerator.

    Freezing

    If you want to store your rosemary for longer, you can freeze it. These silicone ice cube trays are great and easy to use to turn rosemary into ice cubes and store them in an airtight container or ziploc bag so they do not get any off flavors.

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    Drying

    Another long-term storage option for rosemary is drying it. Unlike other herbs such as parsley and basil, rosemary does not lose its flavor when dried.

    Using a food dehydrator is one quick way of drying the herb. You can dry whole sprigs using a low setting that is suitable for herbs. If you do not own a food dehydrator, use the traditional method of air drying.

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    For drying, it is best to harvest stems of about 6-8 inches, but any length will do. Hang them up in bunches in a dark, dry, and warm place, or lay them flat on wire racks, and make sure you do not tack them in layers as this may delay drying or even make them rot. Place a tray under the drying herbs so it will help to catch any bits that fall off as the herbs dry.

    Keep in mind that dry rosemary is much harder and woody than when it is soft. You can crush or grind the dried leaves to make them easier to cook with, but they retain flavor better if they are kept whole.

    How Long is Rosemary Good For?

    This fragrant, vigorous, and evergreen herb can be harvested all year round, although the best time to harvest it is in the summer and spring, just before it flowers and when the aromatic oils are at their best and the plant essence is best preserved.

    If you take good care of your plant, it will keep producing healthy, and if you harvest it the right way might keep it around for about 15 years or more.

    Once harvested, you have multiple options on how to store it:

    • Refrigerating for up to three weeks
    • Freezing for up to six months
    • Drying for as long as you desire

    If you do any of these the right way, your rosemary will stay good.

    Tips to Improve Your Rosemary Harvest

    1. Rosemary is a relatively drought-tolerant plant, but you must water it regularly if it is in a spot or pot that does not get a lot of rain. This will surely keep your rosemary harvest good. The plant also hates getting too wet, so make sure you grow it in well-draining soil to avoid any water-logged conditions that may kill the plant.
    2. If you are in a colder zone, plant your rosemary in containers so that you can bring them in during the cold winter months.
    3. If your previously healthy plants are getting less vigorous over the growing seasons, take cuttings from them and grow new plants to replace them. They may be losing vigor due to age.

    Quick Summary: How to Harvest Rosemary

    Knowing and using the right method of harvesting rosemary is key to maintaining the productivity and vigor of your plant, and will determine how long your plant will last. If you want only a little bit to prepare a dish, you can simply just pluck individual needles directly from the plant as needed.

    Most gardeners snip off full sprigs and then strip the leaves when they harvest rosemary. This way they only get what they need and leave the plant to keep growing.

    Harvest rosemary by snipping sprigs with pruners or kitchen scissors, and avoid any pulling which may damage the plant. Harvest the new growth on the plant to get the best flavor for cooking. New growth will be flexible and lighter green while older growth will be woodier and darker.

    We hope you found this article informative and that you will now confidently grow and harvest your rosemary the right way.

    Happy growing!

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  • How to Harvest Parsley Without Killing the Plant – 8 Easy Tips

    How to Harvest Parsley Without Killing the Plant – 8 Easy Tips

    Parsley is one of the most widely used herbs in the world. It is extremely easy to grow and harvest, meaning you can plant in and always have parsley when needed. It is however key to know how to harvest parsley without killing the plant.

    Once harvested, it stores extremely well and you can preserve it in many different ways to ensure a continuous supply of this herb all year round. Although usually used as a garnish, it has amazing flavors that can take both cooked and raw dishes to the next level. To keep enjoying this plant, keep reading to learn the exact way to harvest it without killing the plant.

    The Parsely Herb

    Parsley (Petroselinum crispum) is a flowering plant belonging to the Apiaceae family. It is native to the Mediterranean regions of Greece, Morocco, and the former Yugoslavia. It has since been introduced to Europe and all other areas in the world where the climate is suitable for its growth. It is widely cultivated as a herb and used in various dishes.

    The plant is bright green and is a biennial with feather-shaped leaves. It prefers temperate climates but does well in a range of conditions.

    There are two primary varieties of parsley, that is flat leaf and curly parsley. The curly leaf is the more popular of the two, but both varieties are used for culinary purposes. The flat leaf parsley is also known as Italian parsley.

    Both varieties of parsley have a refreshing earthy taste and a subtle scent and are mostly used in vegetable dishes, stews, soups, salads, and sauces. Parsley is more commonly used in traditional Middle-Eastern and Greek foods.

    In addition to having a great state, parsley has various nutritional benefits. It is rich in many nutrients, especially vitamins A and C, and iron.

    The ideal growing conditions for parsley include moist, well-drained, and loamy soils, and full to partial sunlight. It prefers warmer climates but can withstand light frost without too much damage, and will re-emerge in the spring. It is also an easy plant to grow from seed and has high rates of germination.

    If you are a lover of butterflies, parsley has n added benefit for you and your garden. It is an excellent host for swallowtail caterpillars (Papilionidae) and will multiply in your garden if you grow parsley.

    How to Cut Parsley Plant

    The parsley plant is harvested for its flavourful leaves as well as its seeds. When doing this, it is best to cut the younger plants for leaves. Younger stems have a stronger flavor. The older plants, which may maybe be in their second growing season are better suited for harvesting seeds.

    Does Parsley Grow Back?

    Parsely takes about two to three weeks to grow back after harvest. As a result, you need to plan your harvests accordingly to give your herbs enough time to grow again before the next harvest.

    If you cut down the parsley plant entirely, it will eventually grow back. It will just take a long time to do so. Only cut what you need at any time to allow the plant to continue growing and producing for a long time.

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    How to Prune Parsley

    Parsely should be pruned back regularly to increase yield. Even if you do not plan on using the herb, you need to prime it once every couple of weeks. The more you cut, the bushier your plant will grow back.

    Here are simple tips on how to prune parsley for a better harvest:

    • Whenever you harvest your parsley for use, also snip off some stems on the outside of the plant
    • Trim off any yellow or brown leaves and stems to encourage new, healthy growth
    • Trim the plant at the base of the stem, closer to the soil. If you trim higher, you may slow down plant growth
    • The plant prefers a clean cut, so when you cut, use a sharp pair of scissors instead of pinching off the plant

    When to Harvest Parsley

    Parsley takes about 70-90 days to grow before it s ready for harvesting. You do not have to wait this long before you can start harvesting some leaves. It is however advisable to wait until the plant has produced ample foliage before you start harvesting the leaves.

    If all this sounds confusing and you are still unsure, just wait until your plants start getting bushy and have lots of branching leaves before you start to harvest them.

    Parsley is a biennial plant that is often grown as an annual and grows back when cut or harvested. When grown in temperate climates, it can be harvested all year round because the temperature stays right for it to keep growing. In other regions, the growing season of the herb is from spring right through fall.

    The best time of day to harvest parsley is in the morning before it gets too hot in the day. The plant has the most potent flavor during this period during the high content of essential oils.

    How to Pick Parsley – 8 Simple Steps

    When it comes to harvesting parsley, you want to make sure that you do it in a way that will keep your plant growing. Follow these eight simple steps to ensure this.

    Step 1: Choose younger plants

    Younger plants have the best and strongest flavor. These can be harvested after the first year of growth. These can be harvested even in the first year of growth provided that are big enough. This will help the plant to keep putting out new growth.

    Step 2: Only harvest plant stems that have at least three segments

    Stems that have three segments are considered mature enough for harvest. Those that have only one or two should be left alone.

    Step 3: Cut at the base of the stem

    It is better to cut the plant at the base than at the top of the stem. This will help the plant to bush out better when it grows back.

    Step 4: Cut leaves from the outer parts of the plant

    Harvesting the older outer leaves of the plants will help the plant to direct its energy toward new growth.

    Step 5: Harvest continually

    Harvest your parsley in small batches throughout the growing season. Doing this will help the plant to have enough leaves and stems on it to keep regenerating for a continuous harvest. A good rule of thumb is to always leave ½ – ⅔ of the plant intact when harvesting. Always give your plant about a week to recover between harvests.

    Step 6: Bulk harvest at the end of the season

    If parsley is planted outside and it is in a cold climate, it is most likely going to get killed by the winter. So right before the winter comes, harvest all your plants and store them. This will give the plant a chance to grow back in the next season.

    Step 7: Use your harvested parsley

    You can use your parsley freshly harvested

    Step 8: Store your harvested parsley

    You can store it by refrigerating, freezing, or drying it for long-term storage.

    Harvesting Parsley Seeds

    After a parsley plant has grown and matured, it produces seeds. This does not happen in the first year of growth. If you would like to harvest seeds from your parsley plants, closely monitor them when they enter the second year of growth. This is when they typically flower ad produce seeds, at the end of their life cycle.

    To get a good crop as the growing seasons go by, remove any weak, unhealthy, or imperfect parts of the plant at the end of the first season. This will allow the second-year growth to be much stronger, and healthier and produce good-quality seeds.

    You will see that the seeds are ready to harvest when they have darkened. At this point, you can cut them from the plant by removing the stem right below the seed head. You can use sharp scissors to do this, or simply use your fingers to pinch off the seed heads.

    Do not move the seed heads too much while harvesting as shaking them will cause the seeds to scatter. Because the seeds are very small, they will be hard to recover. Place the harvested seeds in a paper bag and let them dry. Once they are dry, shake the bag to separate the seeds from their heads. and then you can store them in a cool dry place until they are ready to use.

    How to Store Fresh Parsley

    Fresh parsley can be stored at room temperature for short-term storage. To do this, bundle the stems together and snip the ends. Then place the stems in a glass or vase filled with water. This way, your parsley will last for about 2-3 days. Wash the parsley before you use it.

    You can also store them in the refrigerator for short-term storage. To store them this way, wash your harvested stems and remove any dirt or dust from them. Use a paper town or a dry kitchen cloth to dab them dry. Place them in the vegetable crisper section of your refrigerator, and they will stay fresh for up to 10 days.

    Freezing is an option for a longer-term storage solution. You can freeze whole sprigs or cut the leaves small and freeze them with some water in ice cube trays. Frozen parsley will retain its flavor but lose its crispiness. Keep this in mind if you freeze it.  Frozen parsley can store for up to six months.

    One of the best ways to store parsley for a long time is to dry it. Hang harvested and washed whole sprigs upside down in a warm, dark, and well-ventilated area for them to air dry. It will take about 7-10 days to dry completely. Once completely dry, crumble the leaves and store them in an airtight container or bag.

    Another drying option is to use a food dehydrator to dry your parsley quickly and easily. Only use the air drying option as high heat can negatively impact the flavor of the herbs. Store your dried herbs in a mason jar sealed with a food saver and jar sealer attachment.  Use dried parsley within 2-3 years.

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    Quick Summary – How to Harvest Parsley without Killing the Plant

    Harvesting parsley is an extremely easy and quick process, and can be done in a way that will allow you to harvest continually throughout the growing season. To do this, just take what you need each time you harvest.  Don’t cut the plant all the way back, and don’t pull the plant. – just snip off a stem or two or three. This will allow your plant to grow back healthier and bushier.

    Be gentle when harvesting. Use sharp scissors or knives but do not give in to the temptation to pull or tug on the plant, even if it is a bit hard to cut. Pulling may damage the plant and ultimately kill it.

    Remember also to harvest the older leaves first, to allow the plant to direct energy into growing new foliage. As a result, your plant will keep producing parsley all season long.

    Harvest your herb continually, even if you do not plan n using it. Pruning the plant, and taking off the outer leaves and stems will encourage new growth and will cause your plant to grow better.

    We hope this article has provided you with everything you needed to know about how to harvest parsley without killing the plant.

    Happy growing!

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  • How to Harvest Thyme Without Killing the Plant [Best Tips]

    How to Harvest Thyme Without Killing the Plant [Best Tips]

    Thyme is one of the most commonly grown household herbs due to its ease of growth. To get a prolonged harvest and enjoy more of this herb, you need to know how to harvest thyme without killing the plant.

    Thyme grows really fast and well if provided with the right growing conditions, and is an extremely versatile herb for adding flavor in cooking and baking. Keep reading to learn more about this incredible herb.

    The Thyme Herb

    Thyme, scientific name Thymus vulgaris, is a plant native to the Mediterranean but is currently grown almost everywhere in the world. It is a hardy, perennial plant belonging to the mint family that is extremely easy to grow. Because of this and its size, it can be grown in a variety of areas such as in the garden, on the porch, and in any indoor environment.

    This wonderful herb has a pleasant, pungent clover flavor that brings some people, good memories of summer!

    Thyme comes in at least 50 varieties with different flavors and fragrances. Different thyme varieties are used for different purposes. These are the fragrant ornamental and culinary varieties. The culinary varieties of thyme are usually evergreen, and the English variety is mostly used in cooking.

    Taking care of or maintenance of this herb is quite simple. It does not require much care and develops easily. For starters, it is drought friendly so it has low watering needs. If you are into bees, you will love it even more because it will attract bees to your garden. It is usually harvested in the summer months but depending on the climate where you live, you can easily harvest it late into the fall.

    Harvesting Thyme Herb

    Harvesting thyme the right way is of utmost importance. It is difficult not to know when the right time to harvest thyme is, as it can be quite easy to tell. The most important thing with harvesting thyme is to wait until the plant has grown to 8″ – 10″ in height. Once it has reached this height, you can safely harvest the herb without the risk of killing the plant.

    Only trim a few stems at a time for cooking. If you want to do a larger harvest, you should wait until the plant has developed more and produced larger biomass. Regardless of what stage of growth you harvest your thyme at, always leave a few leaves on the plant for it to regenerate.

    When harvesting thyme, do it right before the plant starts to flower. This is when the flavor is the most intense. It reduces after the plant flowers. If you can, always harvest thyme in the morning when the plant’s dew has dried from the leaves. The flavorful essential oils are at their peak at this time.

    facts about thyme

    How to harvest thyme so it keeps growing

    Just as important as knowing when to harvest thyme, you need to know exactly how to harvest it without killing the plant. Here are the steps that you need to follow:

    1. If you want enough to cook one dish, simply cut one or two stems by clipping the stems back to the woody section of the plant.
    2. If you want only a few leaves for a smaller meal, rinse the whole stem while it is still on the plant. Then use your fingers or a herb stripper to pull the leaves off the stem.
    3. To harvest thyme for drying, use a pair of garden clippers or scissors to cut off the top 5-8″ of growth and leave the tough and woody plants behind.
    4. Whatever purpose you want to harvest your thyme for, you can cut back as much as you want from the plants but always leave about 4-5″ of growth behind so that your plants can regenerate. If you harvest your thyme in this way, you will be able to easily get 2-3 harvests from the same plant before the winter arrives.
    5. Trim your plants regularly. Trimming your plants regularly is very good for them so do not be afraid to do it. It will encourage new growth to keep coming, while also helping keep the plant in a compact shape. This is especially desirable if you are growing your plant indoors or in a compact space. When you trip, always be careful to leave at least five inches of growth. This will keep your plant thriving.
    6. The first time you harvest your thyme, do not harvest more than a third of the plant. This way your plant will keep growing and establish well, then you will be able to harvest more from it in the future. If you overharvest it early on, it may not recover.
    7. Trim your thyme plant whenever it gets leggy to encourage continuous growth.

    How to Preserve Thyme

    As we have already mentioned, a healthy maintained thyme plant can produce so much herb that you can harvest and store, even more, if you have multiple growing plants. Depending on how long you wish to store your thyme, there are various ways that you can preserve it.

    Store fresh spring

    Keep a fresh spring or sprigs of thyme in a glass of cool water, like you would keep flowers in a vase. Change the water regularly and make sure that the glass never runs dry. You can keep them fresh for a couple of weeks this way.

    Refrigeration

    Fresh thyme leaves that are still attached to the stem can be kept fresh in the refrigerator for about a week or two before they go bad or loses their flavor. Store fresh thyme leaves in the refrigerator in an airtight container with damp paper towels. They will help to maintain freshness.

    Drying

    If you want to store the herbs for a longer period though, drying might be the best way to do it. The good news is that thyme is one of the easier herbs to dry. If the temperatures are warm enough, you can even let it air dry.

    To dry your thyme:

    • Gently rinse off harvested thyme stems in cool water from the tap or fill a sink or bowl and wash them thoroughly.
    • Pat them dry with a paper towel or a clean towel and then let them air out for about two years or until they are completely dry.
    • Gather the stems into bundles that you can use per dish that you prepare. Tie the stalks of the bundles together at their ends using a string or twine. Hang the bundles in a dark, warm, and well-ventilated area. Spread them out on a paper towel, rack, or tray in a single layer, especially in a humid area. Keep them away from direct sunlight.
    • You can place the herb bundles in paper bags with slits if you wish. This will protect the herbs as they dry and catch leaves that may fall off.
    • Expect to wait about 2-3 weeks for the herbs to dry. The exact amount of time will depend on the humidity levels and other environmental conditions. Because thyme leaves a quite small, check on them regularly as they may dry quicker than expected. You will know that the leaves are sufficiently dry when they turn crispy and start crumbling. At this stage, you can take and store them in storage containers, and label and use them as you go. Stored this way, your thyme can last for up to two years. The one disadvantage of dried thyme is that it does not have as strong of a flavor as its fresh counterpart. But you will still get to enjoy it.
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    Freezing

    Another option for long-term storage option for thyme is freezing. You can do this by chopping the leaves up into small pieces, putting them in ice cube trays, and then filling them up with water all the way. Frozen thyme can store for a few months. If however, your thyme starts to turn brown before you use it, it is best to toss it as consuming it in that state may be unsafe.

    You can also make herb oil cubes. Pick thyme leaves from the stems and place them in an ice cube tray. Cover the leaves with olive oil and store them in the freezer. These cubes will last for a few months and will be convenient for easy cooking as you can take one or two cubes and toss them into a pan to cook.

    Conclusion – How to Harvest Thyme Without Killing the Plant

    Thyme is an incredibly versatile herb that is so easy to grow and enjoy. To keep enjoying the long-term benefits of growing this plant, it is important to know how to harvest thyme without killing the plant. If you follow the advice provided in this article, you should confidently be able to grow, harvest and store your thyme so you can enjoy it for as long as you like, whether it is in or out of season.

    We hope you found this article helpful.

    Happy growing and harvesting!

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  • Can You Eat Potato Leaves? [Potato Leaves Facts]

    Can You Eat Potato Leaves? [Potato Leaves Facts]

    Potatoes are some of the most versatile and commonly consumed foods around the world. There are so many ways in which this root vegetable can be prepared. But can you eat potato leaves in addition to the root?

    The harvested root of the potato plant is used for many culinary purposes such as making salads, chips, crisps, and many other dishes and snacks. It can even be ground into flour to make various baked goods. Keep reading to find out if the leaves of the potato plant are as versatile as the root.

    What Are Potatoes?

    Potatoes (Solanum tuberosum) are a perennial vegetable belonging to the Solanaceae or nightshade family. Native to the Americas, they were domesticated by Native Americans in multiple locations. Wild species of potatoes can be found in various areas of the United States and Chile.

    Potatoes have now been introduced and are cultivated in just about every continent in the world and are one of the world’s largest food crops.

    All the different types and species of potatoes make a delicious and nutritious addition to any diet. They are a great source of vitamins C and B6 and have twice as much potassium as those found in a banana.

    However, not all parts of the potato plants should be eaten. Just like other plants in the nightshade family such as tomatoes, eggplants, and peppers, some parts of the potato plant are poisonous if consumed.

    Vegetables in the nightshade family produce fruits that are healthy and safe for consumption, but other parts of the plants and their foliage may contain a high concentration of a compound called solanine that is toxic to humans and many animals.

    Are Potato Leaves Edible?

    The simple and straightforward answer is no! “Irish” potato leaves are not edible and should not be consumed at any cost. Generally, however, depending on the variety of potatoes you can and can not eat potato leaves.  Irish potato leaves produce steroidal alkaloids, solanine, and chaconine. These toxic compounds can be present in high concentrations in the leaves of potatoes, which could be harmful if consumed by both animals and humans. Sweet potato leaves however are perfectly safe to eat.

    Solanine and chaconine are produced by plants as natural pesticides to protect themselves from insects devouring them. These two compounds, therefore, make the plants bitter tasting. This also helps the nightshade plants avoid being eaten by herbivores and various pathogens.

    Solanine is present in all parts of the potato plant, but it is more concentrated in the leaves and stems, which are the parts of the plants that have to do with photosynthesis.

    Some people are more sensitive to solanine and even a small amount can cause them to get sick. Children and small pets are also at a higher risk of solanine poisoning due to their small size. A concentration of 20mg of solanine per 100g of plant consumed can be toxic. Potato leaves are not and should not be used in the kitchen. Keeping them out of your kitchen will help you avoid accidental ingestion.

    If you eat any part of a potato and it tastes bitter, you need to stop immediately. That bitter taste could be an indication that there is solanine present. If you ever accidentally consume it accidentally, however, there is no need to panic. Just drink plenty of fluids to try and flush it out. Monitor your symptoms over time. If you continue to feel worse, contact a doctor immediately. Potato leaves should never be eaten

    Can You Eat Potato Greens?

    Are potato leaves poisonous? Can you eat them? Absolutely not. The only part of the potato plant that you should eat is the root. Any part of the potato that is or has a green color should by no means be eaten. If eaten, it can lead to serious health issues and even death due to solanine poisoning.

    potato leaves edible

    Are Potato Plants Poisonous?

    The whole potato plant is not poisonous. There are only certain parts of the potato plant that are poisonous. Potato leaves and plant parts that are not the actual potato are not edible and can be poisonous.

    The leaves stem and any new shoots and buds of the potato plant contain high amounts of solanine. In addition to this, potato tubers (the actual potato) that have been exposed to sunlight for an extended period of time and turned green also contain high amounts of solanine and should not be eaten.

    The only part of the potato plant that is safe to eat is the underground tuber which has not been exposed to the sun and has no green color on it. If you have stored your potatoes and they start to sprout, you must remove the sprouts before eating them. As long as the potatoes have no green pigment, they should be perfectly fine to eat.

    If your stored potatoes have a small patch of green on the surface, you can simply trim it away and wash the potato and cook it. If you find that the flesh is also green, however, you should toss the whole potato.

    Another part of the potato plant that should not be eaten is the little fruit that the flowers produce. These fruits look like small tomatoes and may be confusing especially to small children. They should not be eaten because they are also poisonous.

    Animals should also be kept from eating any green parts of the potato plant. To keep your animals safe, fence off any areas where the plants are. Remove any leaves that fall onto the land where they may be accessed and consumed by livestock.

    If you suspect that an animal has eaten any poisonous part of the potato plant, immediately seek veterinary care, and with the proper treatment, the animal should be fine.

    Solanine poisoning rarely ever leads to death because you would have to eat extremely large quantities for it to have that effect. If you consume small quantities of solanine, here are some symptoms of poisoning that you may experience;

    • Gastrointestinal pain such as a burning sensation in the mouth and throat, pain in the abdomen, loose bowels, nausea, and vomiting.
    • Skin discomforts such as an itchy neck and overly sensitive skin
    • Headaches
    • Difficulty with breathing
    • Fatigue
    • Feeling weak
    • Weak or rapid pulse
    • Hallucinations
    • Delirium
    • Coma
    • and in rare cases, death

    Never make the mistake of thinking that cooking will destroy solanine from potato plants because it does not. It does not matter whether the potato is raw or cooked, they’re both toxic. Any part of the potato plant that is green is not fit for consumption, and uncooked potato tubers are inedible even if they do not have a green color.

    Solanine poisoning

    Solanine poisoning is mostly displayed via gastrointestinal and neurological complications. Symptoms usually occur between 8 and 12 hours after ingestion of high-solanine foods.

    Some scientific studies have shown that there is a correlation between the consumption of potatoes that have late blight, which increases the levels of solanine and other glycoalkaloids, and the occurrence of congenital spina bifida.  birth defect in humans.

    Although the mechanism of solanine poisoning is still to be well understood, it is best to avoid any vegetables that could potentially lead to poisoning.

    Are Sweet Potato Leaves Edible?

    Sweet potatoes (Ipomoea batatas) are often mistaken for nightshade because of the name similarity with potato, it might be tempting to think they are from the same family. Despite the name being similar, sweet potato does not belong to the nightshade or Solanaceae family and are not related to regular potatoes.

    Unlike potato leaves, sweet potato leaves are edible. They do not contain any solanine and are not toxic. The leaves can be eaten raw in salads or cooled and served as a side vegetable like spinach. They can also be added to stir-fries. Sweet potato leaves are a common ingredient in many Asian-style dishes.

    Sweet potato leaves are an excellent source of vitamins and minerals and therefore can be an excellent addition to your diet. They are rich in vitamins A, C, and B6, as well as manganese and potassium. The composition of these nutrients will depend on the variety of sweet potatoes.

    Potato vs Sweet Potato Leaves

    To avoid mistaking potato leaves for sweet potato leaves, it might be helpful to know how to clearly distinguish between the two by knowing their descriptions.

    Potato leaves have a smooth leaf edge compared to the serrated edge of regular leaves. The leaf has an oval shape and may have notches that separate large lobes. They have a dark green color and would be bitter if you tasted them.

    Sweet potato leaves on the other hand form a trailing vine. They are heart-shaped or have deep notches The leaves have a glossy green appearance that may also have a reddish tint. They have prominent veins that radiate from the base of the leaf. They can be medium to large in size and have a cordate or heart shape with pointed tips.

    Sweet potato leaves grow in an alternating pattern and may have multiple lobes, known as palmate, depending on the variety. The colors of sweet potato leaves can range from dark to yellow green, and purple, and they usually have a darker surface and be lighter on the underside of the leave. They glow on green, slender terms on creeping vines that can grow up to four meters in length. The top 10 cm of the leaves and stems are the most tender parts of the vine and are the most commonly consumed.

    What to Do With Potato Leaves?

    Since you cannot eat potato leaves, what can you do with them? One thing you can do with potato leaves is to compost them. Composted potato leaves can be an excellent source of nutrients to help enrich or improve the quality of your soil. If you decide to do this, be careful not to add too many of these leaves to your compost heap as they can cause the compost to become acidic. This would limit the number of plants you would be able to use your compost on.

    Another thing you can do with potato plant leaves is to simply throw them away. Throw them away in a place that your animals will not be able to reach, as this may lead to various health problems. If you can, dig a hole in the ground and bury the leaves in there. Just remember not to plant anything in that area that does not like acidic soil or it will not grow well and may even die.

    Can You Get Poisoned By Touching Potato Leaves?

    Since we have explained extensively the problems associated with potato leaf consumption and solanine poisoning, you may be wondering if it is possible to get poisoned by touching or handling them. There is no need to worry about this because handling potato foliage poses no risk to you or your pets.

    You would only get poisoned if you infested considerable amounts of the poisonous parts of the plant. You can safely handle or carry all the green parts of the potato plant without worrying about any possibility of poisoning.

    Conclusion – Can You Eat Potato Leaves?

    Potatoes are a popular and versatile vegetable that is consumed by all cultures throughout the world. This amazing vegetable however has certain parts of it that are not fit for consumption as they can lead to terrible health effects and even health if consumed in large enough quantities.

    The stems and leaves of potatoes, along with those of all the plants in the nightshade family should not be consumed by humans or animals. The solanine contained in them is toxic. This also goes for any potato tuber that may have a green pigment on its flesh. It should be gotten rid of or used for composting.

    You cannot destroy the solanine contained in potato greens by cooking. Under no circumstances should potato greens be consumed.

    Sweet potatoes are from a different family to “Irish potatoes”. Even though it might be easy to think they are related, sweet potato leaves can be safely consumed and actually have various health benefits.

    To avoid accidentally consuming poisonous potato leaves, learn how to distinguish between the two. You can read the guidelines provided in this article or use other resources to assist you in this regard.

    We hope this article has been of great help in improving your understanding of potato plants and their dangers. While the risk of death from solanine poisoning is quite low, it is better to be safe than sorry. In conclusion, avoid any green parts of the potato plant.

    Stay safe and happy gardening.

  • When to Pick Jalapenos: Know the Right Time to Harvest Ripe Jalapenos

    When to Pick Jalapenos: Know the Right Time to Harvest Ripe Jalapenos

    Do you like a bit of heat if your food? That zang when you bite into your meal. If this is you, you may want to know when to pick jalapenos so you can get the ideal flavor and heat level that you want.

    Jalapeno peppers are extremely easy to grow and if you enjoy them, you can grow them at home regardless of the amount of space that you have. Let’s keep reading to find out more.

    What Are Jalapeno Peppers?

    Jalapeno is a medium-sized chili pepper cultivar belonging to the species  Capsicum annuum. These peppers grow fairly slowly and because of this, it can be quite tough to tell when they are ready for harvest.

    The peppers are a summer favorite for gardeners everywhere. They add some spice to dishes without the overwhelming heat that some peppers have. Give them a good amount of heat and sunlight and they will grow happily and produce a pepper with a lovely mild taste that can be used in many dishes such as salsas, stir-fries, and nachos and to make the sauce.

    Jalapenos can easily be grown in containers and on the ground. So even if you don’t have a lot of garden space, you can still be able to grow and enjoy these peppers at home.

    Jalapeno plants produce a large yield of dozens of glossy green fruits that are easy to grow if provided with the right growing conditions.

    On the Scoville scale, which is the measure of the hotness or spiciness of peppers, they are in the range from 2500 to 8000 and are considered mildly hot. The compound capsaicin gives hot peppers their heat. When jalapenos are fully ripe and have a red color, the level of capsaicin is higher and results in the peppers being hotter than when they are still green.

    Harvesting Jalapenos

    Harvesting jalapenos is an easy process. If you follow the guidelines that will be provided in this article, you can confidently harvest them right.

    Continual harvest of peppers is good for them and will encourage the plant to keep producing more. Therefore, it is impossible to use up peppers by picking them often. As long as you harvest them, they will keep blossoming and producing more peppers.

    On the other hand, if you leave the peppers too long on the plant, your red jalapenos will start to rot or will not last very long after you pick them.

    No matter the color of your papers when you pick them, always pick them before the frost falls. Peppers are a summer crop and are therefore very sensitive to cold weather. They may suffer frost damage if the temperature falls below 40 degrees Fahrenheit.

    If you are not quite prepared to harvest your peppers or they are not quite ready as the cold weather approaches, you can cover the entire plant with fleece covers. This way you might be able to save the peppers from damage.

    How Do I Know When My Jalapenos Are Ready to Pick?

    When it comes to harvesting jalapenos, when do you know or decide when your peppers are ready to pick? You pick your jalapenos when they are the right color depending on the level of heat you want.

    Jalapenos turn red as they mature, and as they mature their level of heat increases. Most people prefer to harvest their jalapenos when the fruits are dark green and only have mild heat.

    If you are unsure that your green jalapenos are ready for harvest, check their appearance. They should be picked when they are about 3-5″ in size, and feel firm to the touch.

    How to Tell When Jalapenos Are Ripe

    Telling when jalapenos are ripe can be tricky because they are usually harvested off the same branch and start in. And if you grow them at home, you may have a different variety to the ones you find at the store so they may look different.

    When you plant your own jalapenos at home, start harvesting them when they are about 5 to 6 months old. After this period, the peppers should be at least 3-5 inches long. They are then ripe and ready to harvest. The exact length of the pepper will depend on the variety you are growing, as well as the growing conditions that you have provided for them.

    If your plants are grown in an area that does not receive a lot of sunlight, they may be smaller and take longer to mature. Regardless of size, mature peppers are deep green or red, as soon as they get these colors, they are ripe and ready to pick.

    How to Harvest Jalapenos – Simple Guide

    Once you have ascertained that your peppers are ready to harvest, you need to do it properly so that your plants keep producing fruit. Here are the steps you need to follow;

    1. Locate the peppers that have your desired heat level

    Green jalapenos will have a mild flavor. The lighter the shade of green, the milder the pepper is likely to be. As the peppers mature and get a red color, they get hotter. The redder they are, the more heat they will have.

    2. Hold the branch that has the jalapenos you want to harvest

    This is so that you can support the stem while plucking the peppers so that it does not break.

    3. Cut off the pepper

    With your free hand, use a pair of sharp running shears or garden scissors to cut off the pepper at the base where it attaches to the main stem. While doing this, do not give in to the urge to tug on twits the peppers of the plant even if they give you a hard time. This may end up leading to damage to your plant.

    jalapenos facts

    When to Harvest Jalapenos

    Knowing when to pick jalapenos off the plant is important to get a good harvest. Jalapenos take anywhere between 70 and 85 days to mature, from the day they are transplanted outside. At this stage, they should have a firm texture, have dark green pods, and be 3-4 inches long.

    If you are looking for mild heat from your peppers, pick the younger green ones off the plant. The younger ones will have a light green color and will not have any corking, which is the appearance of little stretch marks on the body of the jalapeno.

    When jalapeno peppers grow fast, the skin has to stretch quickly and this results in the pepper having little lines or striations on them. When you see these marks on the pepper, that is a clear indication that it is ready to pick and healthy.

    Different jalapenos have different levels of heat. If you prefer mild to no heat, the best varieties to go for are the Mammoth Jalapeno, TAM Jalapeno pepper, or the heatless Coolapeño pepper. You can get seeds for many of these varieties on the Etsy online marketplace.

    Can You Ripen Jalapenos Indoors?

    If you can not wait for your jalapeno peppers to mature while still on the plant, or if a branch with some peppers that have not ripened breaks off, you can harvest them indoors.

    Jalapenos can be ripened off the vine. This process can take period of a couple of days to a few weeks. The speed with which this happens will depend on various conditions such as the ambient temperature in which they are kept, as well as whether the peppers themselves have started changing color.

    Jalapenos, just like other peppers can ripen indoors, on a windowsill or countertop. The ideal temperature to get this to happen is at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit for quick results.

    If the peppers are at the end of the growing season, you can cut off branches with immature jalapeno peppers and hang them upside down indoors, or stick them in water to speed up the ripening process.

    Keep in mind however that after your peppers have been harvested, they will no longer grow in size. They will only ripen but remain the same in size.

    How to Preserve Jalapenos

    Depending on the size of your harvest, as well as how long you would like to store your jalapenos, there are various methods that you can use to preserve them. These are;

    1. Refrigeration: If you plan to consume your jalapenos in about two weeks, you can store your peppers in a ziploc bag and store them in the vegetable drawer of your fridge. Make sure that both the peppers and storage bag are completely dry before you store them
    2. Freezing: You can store jalapenos in the freezer for up to eight months. Before freezing, wash and dry them carefully and store them whole in freezer bags. You can use your frozen peppers in stews, soups, and other dishes. You will obviously have to thaw them out before doing so, and they may lose a bit of crunch from when they are fresh. Just keep them in mind. If, for whatever reason, your frozen peppers start to turn black before you consume them, toss them away as they may no longer be suitable to eat.
    3. Food dehydrator: dehydrated jalapeno peppers can be stored for up to a year. To prepare them, thoroughly wash and dry them with a dry towel or let them air dry. Cut your washed peppers into even pieces. Ly them on a flat tray and make sure that they do not overlap so that they can dry properly. Dehydrate your peppers at 125 degrees Fahrenheit for 6 to 12 hours. You will see that your peppers are completely dry when they become leathery (if you want to rehydrate later), or when they get brittle (if you want to grind them into powder). Store your dehydrated peppers in sealable containers and keep the, away from the sun.
    4. Pickling: Some gardeners prefer to pick their jalapeno peppers early. Green jalapenos are crispy and crunchy and are great for pickling. So if you want to pickle your peppers, pick them when they are still young and green, and you can keep them for as long as you like.

    When you harvest your peppers for storage in whichever method you prefer, yous should also consider saving some seeds for the next planting season. This will save you money and the trouble of having to look for new seeds or seedlings.

    Another advantage of growing jalapenos from your own seeds is that those peppers will be better adapted to your growing environment, and will have a higher chance of survival and production with each passing growth season.

    Conclusion – When to Pick Jalapenos

    Jalapenos are an extremely easy crop to grow. You can grow them both indoors and outdoors, as long as you can provide ideal growing conditions for them, they will grow beautifully and successfully.

    Harvesting jalapenos is an important factor in their growth and getting a successful harvest. Knowing when and how to harvest your peppers is absolutely crucial if you want your plant to keep producing. Knowing what indicators to look out for, that show that your peppers are ready for harvest will determine the quality of your crop, as well as how long your plant will keep growing.

    If you like a mild eat on your peppers, harvest them while they are still young and green in color. If you love hot peppers, wait for your peppers to turn red because at thing stage they will have a lot of heat.

    Pick your jalapenos often so that they can keep producing more fruit for you to enjoy. Do not worry about any possibility of having too much fruit, because you can always store your peppers for as long as you with with the different methods provided in this article.

    Never wait for all your peppers to ripen before harvesting them, as this will slow down the growth and productivity of the plant. Keep harvesting for it to keep growing. You cannot out-pick the plant.

    We hope you found all the information, tips and tricks pin this article useful, and you will not confidently grow and harvest your jalapenos knowing that you are doing it right.

    Happy growing!

  • Know the Best Time to Pick Potatoes [Potato Harvest Time]

    Know the Best Time to Pick Potatoes [Potato Harvest Time]

    Homegrown potatoes are arguably better than anything you can buy at a supermarket. Growing them however can be a bit tricky if you are inexperienced. One of the key things with growing them at home is to know when to pick potatoes.

    Knowing how to harvest and handle homegrown potatoes after harvest will help you to end up with the maximum possible harvest your garden can produce. You will also be able to store them for a long, even through the winter months. To get to know when to pick potatoes, keep reading.

    The Potato Plant

    Solanum tuberosum, commonly known as potato is one of the most commonly grown and consumed vegetables worldwide. It is a staple for many traditional dishes and is used to make many fast food dishes and snacks.

    Potatoes are a cool-weather vegetable and can be grown as a winter crop in areas with a warm climate. They belong to the nightshade family of plants which also has peppers, tomatoes, and eggplants.

    The potato plant has green leaves that grow on top of the soil and help you to see where your potatoes are planted. It also has a tuber, which is the enlarged underground portion, which we refer to as “the potato”. The tuber develops underground once the plants get to about 6-8 inches in height. This usually happens around 5-7 weeks after planting.

    There are over 100 types of potatoes. They differ in skin and flesh colors, shapes, and sizes. Some of these are ideal for mashing, roasting, frying, and for making salads. Potatoes are also nutritious. The skin is especially nutrient-rich and provides u to 45% of an adult’s daily vitamin C and 18% potassium requirements.

    Growing Potatoes

    Potatoes will grow well as long as they are provided with the right growing conditions. They do well in most types of soils and will produce a lot of good potatoes for your harvest.

    Grow potatoes in an area where they will receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight. The soil should be fertile, loose, and well-draining. Refrain from using any hard or compacted soil as it will lead to disfigured potatoes and will make harvesting difficult when the time comes. You can improve the quality of the soil by adding compost, and soil amendments, and preparing the soil before planting.

    The ideal soil pH for growing potatoes is acidic and should be between 5.8 and 6.5. The temperature should be 45 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit.

    The best time to plant potatoes is in the spring 2 to 4 weeks before the frost day in your area. The temperatures should still be ideal at this time. If planted at the right time, you should expect to harvest them late in the summer and can store them through the fall and winter months.

    Harvesting Potatoes

    Harvesting potatoes can seem tricky, but it is pretty simple if you know what you are doing. Knowing when to pick potatoes is also key. They are best harvested on dry days as harvesting in the mud when it is raining may cause issues. Since you cannot see the tubers underground while you harvest, you need to be extremely careful not to puncture the tubers. If the soil is loose, it should be pretty easy to maneuver with your fingers, this will help you to avoid cutting on causing bruising on the skin of the potatoes.

    Potatoes can tolerate light frost, but when the first hard frost is expected, it’s time to get out the shovels and start digging potatoes.

    Knowing the right time to harvest potatoes and doing so will keep the vegetables from sitting too long in the ground, and will reduce the chances of attack by pathogens that target potatoes.

    The size of your tubers should be about the size of a chicken egg or bigger when you harvest them. You can leave them to grow a bit more if you prefer. You should use a digging fork from around the edges and work your way into where your potatoes are planted. This should help loosen the soil without puncturing the potatoes. Once the soil has loosened, you can use your fingers to feel around and get the potatoes that you want out.

    Here are some considerations to keep in mind when harvesting potatoes:

    • Toughen up your potatoes for storage before harvesting them, by limiting how much you water them after the middle of August.
    • Before harvesting your entire crop, dig up a small test hill to see how big or mature your plants are. The skin of mature potatoes will be thick and firmly attached to the potato flesh. Those that are still young will have thin skin that comes off the potato when gently rubbed.
    • If the soil is wet when you harvest the potatoes, let them air dry completely before storing them.
    • Check for any green pots on your harvested potatoes, if it is just superficial and can be trimmed off, the potatoes should be fine to keep. If the green goes deep into the flesh, throw away the potatoes as they may be poisonous.
    • Cure your potatoes before long-term storage. Do this by letting them sit in temperatures of 45 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit for about two weeks. This time will give the potatoes time to heal or harden any small cuts that may be present. You do not need to cure them if you are going to eat them right off the ground.
    • Store potatoes in a cool, dry, and dark place after harvesting. Too much light will turn them green, rendering them unsuitable for eating.
    • Store the potatoes that are damaged, diseased, or bruise-free to avoid any storage problems.
    • Store your potatoes in baskets, cardboard boxes, or crates with holes on the sides so the vegetables get enough ventilation to prevent rot.
    • Regularly check on your stored potatoes and remove any ones that may get damaged or start to rot before they infect the others.

    harvesting potatoes

    When to Harvest Potatoes in Containers

    Whether you are harvesting potatoes from the ground, grow bags, containers, or grow beds, the method to follow is the same. When to pick potatoes, and how exactly to do it, will be the same.

    Once your potato plants start to flower, you know it is almost time to harvest. Wait for a bit, just until the flowers start to dry and drop off the plant. After this happens, the potatoes will remain tender for about 2-3 weeks.

    If you prefer to pick your potatoes at this stage, keep in mind that you will need to eat them soon after harvest as they do not store well. They are delicious but have really thin skins that affect their shelf life.

    To harvest larger, more mature potatoes, you should leave them for longer than this in the soil. Growing them in a potato grow bed will help you easily monitor the size of your potatoes.

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    The longer you intend to let your potatoes grow for, the more you will need to protect them from animals, children, and pets so they can grow and mature well.

    Because potatoes can be damaged by frost, you should always harvest them just before the frost hits, whether they are mature or still in their baby stage.

    How to Know When Potatoes Are Ready to Harvest

    So how do you know the best time to pick potatoes? Knowing when to harvest potatoes can be quite easy. Once the potato tubers have started to set, they are ready to harvest. You will know that they have reached this stage when you notice them flowering.

    To harvest baby potatoes, dig up potatoes just as the plants have started to flower. Wait until the tops of the vines have completely died to harvest full-size potatoes. This shows that the plant has now directed all of its energy into growing the tubers.

    As you figure out when to pick potatoes, watch out for other symptoms of disease with the die-off of your plants, as not all browning and die-off are part of the plant’s natural cycle.

    Potatoes can tolerate light frost, however, when the first hard frost is expected you should pull off the shovels and start digging potatoes. So you should harvest all your potatoes before the frost hits or you might lose your crop.

    If you do not harvest your potatoes, you will create a perennial patch of potatoes. Potatoes left in the ground and not harvested will either grow new plants, or sprout and produce new plants in the spring of the following growth season. Which of these happens will depend on the climate where you live.

    How to Store Potatoes

    How you store your harvested potatoes depends on the size of your harvest and how long you intend to store them for. If you are harvesting potatoes to consume within a few days, storage should not be a concern as you can store them anywhere.

    To store them for longer, however, you should find them some space in a cool place with temperatures of between 38 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit. If you store them in a warm place, they will be susceptible to diseases, decreasing their shelf life.

    The storage space for potatoes also needs to have a humidity of about 80%, or the tubers will wither and dry out.

    Make sure that the place is also not exposed to sunlight as this will cause the greening of the potatoes. Fresh air and ventilation are crucial for storing potatoes, airtight containers should not be used.

    Never store potatoes with apples. The ethylene gas from apples will cause the potatoes to spoil.

    Avoid storing potatoes in the fridge. This is because after potatoes are harvested, they convert starch to sugar depending on the temperature. They will do this if stored in the fridge, and the potatoes taste weird. Another reason is that storing potatoes in the fridge leads to an increase in the levels of acrylamide. This compound is produced when you cook potatoes at high temperatures. Acrylamide causes cancer in animals, so there is a good chance it might also be harmful to humans.

    Depending on the variety, potatoes can last 4-6 months if stored well.

    Conclusion – Know the Best Time to Pick Potatoes

    Growing and harvesting potatoes at home is one of the most satisfying things to do. Digging them up makes for a fun activity that can be done with kids. Knowing when to pick potatoes and the best method to harvest will ensure that you get the best harvest and can store your potatoes well if you wish.

    We hope you found this article on how to know the best time to pick potatoes informative and helpful.

    Happy growing.

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  • Does Potting Soil Go Bad? (4 Important Signs to Look Out For)

    Does Potting Soil Go Bad? (4 Important Signs to Look Out For)

    Potting soil is important to provide a growth medium, moisture, and nutrition for any growing plants.  There are different types and qualities of potting soil, and if you find good ones you may be tempted to buy a lot. The answer to the question, ‘does potting soil go bad’ is important to know if you plan to store it for long periods. To find out the answer to this question, keep reading.

    Potting Soil Composition

    Potting soil is a vital component of any garden. Unfortunately, it can go bad over time, rendering it unusable and unsuitable for plant growth.

    Commercial potting soils usually contain peat moss as the primary ingredient. It can also contain other ingredients such as perlite, vermiculite, and pine bark. All these components have different functions;

    • Peat moss – a fibrous material that contains nitrogen and phosphorus which are nutrients required for plant growth
    • Perlite – helps with aeration, water retention, and drainage in the soil
    • Vermiculite – improves the nutrient content of the soil and water retention
    • Pine bark – improves moisture retention and aeration
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    A good potting soil should be able to hold water and nutrients that will be used by plants for growth. In some instances, it can even be enhanced with fertilizer or water-holding crystals which will help your plants to perform well. The ratio of the different components of potting soil can be varied and adjusted depending on the plants that will be grown in it

    Potting soils are usually cheap, hence people can purchase large quantities at a time. They are also lightweight and easy to bag and sell.

    It is different from the soil in your garden which is natural. Garden soil is made up of sand, silt, and clay, and can also contain organic matter particles such as those from leaves and grass clippings.

    Old potting soil loses value over time as its ingredients, like peat moss, decompose faster than organic materials, hence potting soil loses its quality faster than regular garden soil.

    Do you know what is the difference between Perlite vs Pumice and Which is The Better Soil Amendment?

    How Long Does Potting Soil Last?

    Potting soil can go bad – but it doesn’t happen overnight. The rate at which this happens depends on a few factors.

    Open bags of new potting soil can stay for between 6 and 12 months without losing its quality. Unopened potting soil however stores even better and can last for up to a year or two before it goes bad.

    Potting soil that is used to grow plants will usually go bad after about a year, or a single growing season. After this period, the soil will no longer be able to support the growth and health of plants and will either need to be replenished or replaced.

    Read more about A Step By Step Guide On How To Sterilize Potting Soil

    Facts about potting soil

    How to Tell If Potting Soil Is Bad – The 4 Signs to Look Out For

    You should be able to tell when potting soil has gone bad, here are the 4 important signs you should look for;

    1. Off smell

    If you notice a rotten egg smell coming from your potting soil, it may be because it has gone bad. This bad smell is caused by anaerobic bacteria and sometimes fungi that grow in old, damp, and compacted soils.

    Putting your damp soil out in the hot sun may help to kill some of these bacteria and fungi that break down the soil. You have to be careful however because this can potentially destroy some of the nutrients that are in the potting soil. Some potting soils also have beneficial social microbes added to them, and the process of putting the soil in the sun can kill them. This would only be a concern for specialty potting soils, it is however something to keep in mind.

    2. Insects and pests

    Bugs and other types of insects are attracted to decaying organic matter. So if you see these infesting your potting soil, it is a sure sign that it is no longer in good condition.

    The most common insects that infest rotting potting soil are fungus gnats. These feed on decomposing or decaying organic matter. They deplete nutrients in the soil and damage plant roots, and as a result, the soil will not be suitable for plant growth.

    To deal with this issue, you can add diatomaceous earth to your potting soil and it will kill the bugs in there.

    3. Mold development and growth

    Mold grows on the top surface of the potting soil, especially when the soil has been exposed to damp or moist conditions for an extended period of time, without sufficient ventilation. The mold can be white, grey, yellow, or green in color, and can also have a fuzzy and slimy texture.

    If you see mold growing on top of your potting soil, let it dry out in a place that has adequate aeration. Check the soil after a couple of days to see if it is still moldy.

    Moldy potting soil can cause the roots of your plants to rot, and dampen off young seedlings if used.

    4. Soil compaction

    As potting soil breaks down in quality, it starts to form clumps. This is because of the decomposition of peat moss. The soil starts to compact and becomes dense. This then creates drainage and aeration problems and makes it difficult for roots to grow.

    If you would like to continue to use the potting soil that is obviously breaking down in quality, you can add some goodness back into it by mixing in some organic matter such as compost or some more peat moss.

    Does Potting Soil Expire?

    Potting soil can lose its quality over time if it is not used and kept in unfavorable conditions. To keep it in good quality for longer periods of time, keep it in an airtight bag that is free from moisture, and away from sunlight.

    Does Unused Potting Soil Go Bad?

    Unused potting soil can go bad but it doesn’t happen overnight. Old potting soil loses value over time as its ingredients, like peat moss, decompose.

    The range of time it takes potting soil to go bad is anywhere between 1-3 years. For unopened and unused potting soil, you can store it for about a year or two before it goes bad.

    If unused potting soil has been stored in a shed or a garage and has come into contact with water, it is probably best to throw it away. Potting soil can go bad if not stored properly.  If it is still dry, however, it may still be viable for growing plants.

    Problems With Using Decomposed Potting Soil

    Decomposed potting soil not only looks and smells bad, but if used in that state it will cause various problems that will disrupt or even impede the growth and productivity of plants. Here are the 4 problems associated with using decomposed potting soil:

    Reduced plant growth:

    Decomposed potting soil contains much fewer nutrients than fresh potting soil. If it is used to grow plants, they will have stunted growth, weak leaves, and delayed flower and fruit development.

    Compressed/compact potting soil:

    The potting soil will compress or compact as the peat moss breaks down. It will pack around the roots, resulting in the impediment of water and oxygen flow. This will lead to eventual ill health and even the death of plants.

    Reduces soil drainage:

    The compaction of potting soil will disturb drainage. This will lead to water-logged conditions and the plant roots will not be able to breathe. Plants require well-drained soils to be able to grow efficiently and healthily. If a plant is placed in permanently soggy or water-logged soil, it will die.

    Salts build-up:

    Fertilizers and salts build in the soil. This becomes even worse if the soil has poor drainage. This build-up will eventually kill the plants, especially if the plants cannot withstand high salt concentrations. The fertilizer build-up will result in fertilizer burn on the plant leaves.

    How to Revive Old Potting Soil for Plant Health

    While using old or decomposed potting soil will do more harm than good to your plants, not all hope is lost as it is possible to revive the soil. Here are some of the options you have;

    1. Repot plants every year:

    Because potting soil usually lasts for a year or a single growing season, to give your plants the best chance of good growth and health, repot them every year and give them new potting soil

    2. Improve the bagged potting soil:

    To potting soil that is still in a bag but has been sitting for a long time, you can add a few handfuls of perlite or vermiculite to revive it. This will not keep the peat moss from breaking down but will help keep the soil aerated. You can also add a handful of compost or worm castings to give it a boost of nutrients.

    3. Flush the soil monthly:

    Flush the potting soil monthly with fresh water to remove or slow down the accumulation of fertilizer and salts in the soil. This will also help to remove the mineral deposits from tap water if you use it to irrigate.

    4. Make your own potting soil:

    To save yourself the trouble of having to deal with decomposed potting soil from a bag, you can make your own mix with more organic ingredients from the garden. you can make your own mix with compost, coir (an organic alternative to peat), worm castings, vermiculite, and other soil additives that you can find. This may seem like a lot of effort, but it is completely worth it and will last longer than commercial potting soil mixes.

    How to Store Potting Soil

    Potting soil can go bad if not stored properly, to make it last longer, you will need to know how to store it well.

    Keep any unused potting soil completely dry. If it comes into contact with any moisture, it will start to develop mold and mildew which will damage the quality of the soil.

    You can also store it in a plastic container with a watertight lid or an unscented plastic bag. Place it in a cool, dark place in a water-safe room.

    For unopened and unused potting soil, you can store it for about a year or two before it goes bad, and opened bags will last 6-12 months.

    Conclusion – Does Potting Soil Go Bad?

    Potting soil is worn out because the peat moss has decomposed. If you want to continue to use the soil or want to give your plants the best chance at growth even after the first growing season, use the measures outlined above to replenish or replace the potting soil once every year.

    Providing your plants with good quality or fresh potting soil or maintaining the quality of the soil that is already in use will result in your plants being much healthier and growing better.

    If you notice or suspect that your potting soil is going bad, it is better to be safe than sorry for the sake of your plants. Do not use it, rather get fresh potting soil or make your own mix.

    We hope this article provided you will all that you needed to know about potting soil going bad.

    Happy growing!

  • How to Harvest Kale So the Leaves Keep Growing

    How to Harvest Kale So the Leaves Keep Growing

    Kale is one of the easiest and best leafy greens to grow currently. Also dubbed a superfood due to its many health benefits, if you’re a health enthusiast, you definitely want to know how to harvest kale so the leaves keep growing and give you a continuous harvest.

    To learn how to do this right, let’s keep reading.

    Summary: How to Harvest Mature Kale

    To harvest Kale, grasp the stem of the mature outer leaf at the base of the main stalk and pull down and out, away from the center, until it breaks. Ensure that you leave at least 5 central leaves on the plant so that it keeps growing.

    What is Kale?

    Brassica oleracea var. sabellica, commonly known as kale is a leafy green vegetable that belongs to the cabbage family and is grown for its edible leaves.

    Mostly eaten raw in salads, but can also be eaten cooked, kale has a variety of micronutrients such as vitamins A, C, and K, minerals, antioxidants, carotenoids, glucosinolates, and polyphenols, all of which are beneficial to human health.

    If you plant kale at the right time, you will have a long season of harvest which will give you ample time to enjoy your fresh greens. Kale is typically a cool-weather vegetable but you can get a longer harvest if you plant it late in the summer to harvest in the fall and winter. It is also surprisingly hardy and frost tolerant. Certain cold-tolerant varieties will keep growing as long as the weather stays above 20°F.

    This plant produces so many large leaves that when it is mature, it takes you only a few minutes to gather enough for a nutritious meal.

    Most varieties of kale are biennial, meaning they have a two-year life cycle but people mostly grow it as an annual with a one-year growth cycle. Some kale varieties are perennial and can live for 5-7 years.

    When to Harvest Kale

    Kale is as easy to harvest as it is to grow. However, you need to know exactly the method and the right time to harvest it. So when is the best time to harvest kale? Well, this will depend on the variety or cultivar of kale that you are growing as they have different rates of growth.

    There are also two distinct harvesting stages of kale, baby kale, and mature kale. The timing of the harvest will depend on what stage you want to harvest the leaves at.

    Kale typically matures approximately 60 days after the seeds have been planted in the soil. By the time healthy plants reach this point, they will have at least 10 leaves with the larger ones on the outside and the smaller ones on the inside.

    If you want to harvest your kale leaves while they are in the baby stage, this is best done 25 to 30 days after planting the seeds.

    Kale is usually harvested in the late spring months, early summer, and again in autumn.

    The time of harvest can also depend on the growing zone you are in and the time of the year. If you have a climate that greatly favors kale growth, you can harvest kale every one or two weeks.

    Some kale gardeners even like to plant kale in the fall so that it can go through a frost before harvesting. The cold weather causes the plants to convert their starches to sugar, which greatly improves their taste.

    How to Cut Kale From Garden

    Harvesting kale is an extremely simple process. You can easily cut off the individual leaves without damaging the entire plant. This is as long as you don’t cut the central bud.

    Here are the considerations to keep in mind when harvesting kale from the garden;

    • Cut off the leaves where the leaf stem meets the main stem of the plant – instead of cutting, you can also break the leaves from the stem by pushing it down with your thumb and pulling it away from the plant.
    • Do not cut the main stem of the plant – if you cut the team off, the plant will stop producing
    • Leave about 1/3 of the leaves on the plant so that it can regenerate over time – pick as many leaves as you want from the kale plant, but do not leave it bare if you wish to continue harvesting
    • Do not cut the root of the plant – this should go without saying, but if you cut the roots of your kale plant it will die
    • Pick the largest and oldest leaves first – this will give the younger plants time to grow before they can be harvested
    • Use the same method whether you are harvesting kale in the baby or the mature method – this way, your kale will keep growing
    • While harvesting, watch out for and remove yellow or spotted leaves – remove any yellow or spotted leaves as soon as you notice them. Leaving sick or dead leaves on the plants will take up energy that the plant should be channeling toward healthy growth to extend your harvest. If you consistently spot any yellow, spotted, or wilted leaves on your plants, it could be a sign of distress. Check for any possible causes such as common kale pests like cabbage worms and aphids, overwatering, or a nutrient deficiency. Once you have established what the cause is remedy it as soon as possible to give your plant the best chance of survival. If it is a watering issue, adjust your watering schedule, if the cause is pests, include pest control in your maintenance routine, I recommend you read the article Amazing Natural Insect Pest Control Methods that Works.
    harvesting kale

    How to Harvest Baby Kale

    If you’re growing baby kale for use in salads, the best time to harvest them is 25-30 days after planting. The best variety for baby kale is the Red Russian and it is commonly grown for this purpose

    Wait until the plants have multiple leaves that are about 2-3″ in length. Just keep in mind that when you harvest the leaves smaller, the yield per plant will also be smaller.

    To harvest small kale leaves, simply use your fingers to pinch each individual leaf at the base of the stem. You can also use a sharp pair of scissors or a knife to cut the leaves. Grab a handful of leaves and cut them off about two inches above the ground. This will enable your plant to keep growing as long as you keep the central point intact.

    To keep harvesting young kale leaves, watch them carefully for about 3-4 weeks because kale can quickly outgrow the baby stage.

    How to Harvest Mature Kale

    Full-size, grown, or mature kale leaves have a tougher texture and a stronger flavor than baby leaves. Older leaves can become discolored and eventually fall off the plant. If you notice this happening, remove these leaves and only harvest the ones that still look green and healthy. When you pick mature kale leaves, ensure that you leave at least 5 central leaves on the plant so that it can continue to make food via photosynthesis and keep growing.

    For mature kale leaves, it is best to cook before consuming them or use them to make kale chips. You can also massage them thoroughly before eating them if you don’t want to cook them

    When they’re mature, they should be about the size of an adult’s palm or bigger. To harvest them, grasp the stem of the mature outer leaf at the base of the main stalk and pull down and out, away from the center, until it breaks. Repeat the same process until you have harvested all the leaves that you want. If your plants are still new or you are worried about damaging them, you can also use a knife, scissors, or running shears instead of your hands to harvest. This will help to prevent snapping the stem.

    Kale Growth Period

    Kale days to harvest is about 55-60 days after planting, as that is the regular period it takes to mature. If the kale is planted from seed in the soil, however, it can take closer t 3 months before they are full-sized.

    How to Store Kale after Harvest

    Freshly picked kale leaves can be stored and last up to 2-3 weeks in the refrigerator if stored well. Do not store it without protection in the fridge because it will quickly wilt. Put the leaves in a ziplock plastic bag or a storage container.

    Kale can also be frozen, and last about 4-6 weeks before turning bitter. To do this properly, wash and chop the leaves before freezing them.

    If you want to keep kale in the freezer for more than 6 weeks, you can blanch it before freezing. This way it will store for about 8-12 months.

    Whichever way you decide to store your kale, follow these basic preparation steps:

    Step 1: Wash

    Wash all the harvested kale leaves thoroughly with cold water, because hot or warm water will make them wilt, and you want to maintain the crunch.

    Step 2: Cut

    Remove or cut off the stems, unless you want to eat them.

    Step 3: Dry

    Pat the leaves dry with a towel or let them air dry for about 10 minutes.

    Step 4: Put them in a bag

    Put the clean and dry leaves in a resealable storage bag or container, with a piece of paper towel to absorb moisture and prevent it from damaging the leaves.

    Step 5: Squeeze out the air

    If you’re storing them in a bag, squeeze out as much of the air as you can.

    Step 6: Store

    Store the leaves in your preferred place. If the leaves go yellow before you eat them, throw them away.

    You can grow many other green leafy vegetables like Spinach or Lettuce

    Conclusion – How to Harvest Kale So the Leaves Keep Growing

    Kale is a nutritious vegetable and can be used to prepare delicious dishes with a bit of information. Knowing when and how to harvest kale is also important, depending on what you plan to use them for. This article provided you with all the information you could ever need on how to harvest kale so the leaves keep going, kale days to maturity, and how to store your harvested kale. We hope that you found it very helpful and will now go and grow your kale and harvest it properly for long periods of time.

    Happy growing!

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  • How to Harvest Dill Properly and Save It for Later- 4 Steps

    How to Harvest Dill Properly and Save It for Later- 4 Steps

    Do you know how to harvest dill properly and save it for later? Do you grow and harvest a lot of dill and would like to know how to preserve it to get maximum use out of your harvest? Keep reading this article to learn more about how to enjoy the many different uses of this fast-growing plant.

    Dill pairs really well with many dishes and adds a great flavor and lovely fragrance. So you will want to learn how to save it. Keep reading.

    Quick Summary:

    Dill, like most herbs, can be harvested continuously throughout the growing season, because it grows really fast. The best way to harvest dill is if you cut it off next to the stem and the plant will continue to grow.

    About Dill

    Dill, scientific name Anethum graveolens L., is also often referred to as dill weed because it can grow like a weed if the growing conditions are ideal.

    The dill plant grows in slender, hollow stems that have green feather-shaped leaves of fennel. The delicate leaves of dill have their own distinct aroma. The dill seeds are brown and flat and have a great mild citrus flavor, and smell a lot like caraway.

    Depending on where it is grown, the taste of dill can vary. There are also many different varieties of dill to choose from, which again can differ in taste.

    The different types of dill plants can be dwarf, or taller. The dwarf types of plants are the Fernleaf and Nano. Because these varieties only grow up to 12-18 inches, they are ideal for growing indoors in pots and window boxes. You can also use a smart pot to grow dill.

    The taller variety, appropriately named the Mammoth can reach heights of 5 ft 10 in when fully matured. This type of dill plant has large umbrella-style flowers.

    Dill is a seasonal herb and thrives in the cooler months of the year. Depending on the climate, it is possible to grow and harvest dill all year round. This means that you can enjoy fresh dill all year round. In cases where greenhouses are used, dill can also be grown all year round since the temperatures can be controlled to create an ideal growing environment.

    The dill plant has been used in Ayurvedic medicines since ancient times. Although it is most popularly used as a spice, it also yields good quantities of essential oils that are much loved for their aroma. Other uses of dill include the use as a digestive herb that provides a relaxing and calming effect on the gut. It can also be used to relieve nausea, colic, and wind while also assisting with appetite.

    You can read the following article if you want to grow other types of herbs: Popular Herbs With Shallow Roots

    Harvesting Dill

    Knowing how to harvest dill properly, and save it for later is very important. Dill, like most herbs, can be harvested continuously throughout the growing season, because it grows really fast. If you cut it next to the stem, the plant will keep growing. As long as you harvest it the right way, you can be sure to have a constant supply of dill throughout the year.

    Here are the steps to follow to ensure that you use the best way to harvest dill.

    1. Give your dill plant sufficient time to grow

    Dill takes anywhere between 4-8 weeks to grow and fully mature. So when they grow to about 6 inches in height, then you know they are ready to harvest.

    Harvesting the largest, older outer leaves of the plant is best. This will give the smaller leaves more time to mature and give you a continuous supply.

    2. Water your dill plant before harvesting

    Water the dill plant about one day before harvesting to ensure that the plant stays hydrated. Watering the plant before harvest will keep it hydrated so that it will recover faster after the older leaves are cut off.

    3. Trim the leaves

    To trim the leaves, use a sharp pair of garden scissors or pruning shears, and cut them next to the stem right where they meet the growth point on the main stem. If you don’t have cutting implements, you can simply use your hand to pinch the stems off. This will work even better if the stems are still young and tender.

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    4. Limit the leaves you cut off

    Pay careful attention to the number of leaves you harvest from one plant. Only take about a quarter to a third of the leaves to allow new growth to develop so that you can have a continuous harvest.

    how to harvest dill

    When to Harvest Dill

    As already mentioned, it takes about 4-8 weeks for dill to get mature. Dill can be harvested after this time period, After this amount of time has passed and your dill has at least 4-5 leaves, you can go ahead and harvest it. Remember to only pick the outer, older leaves so that the smaller leaves can have time to grow.

    Harvesting the outside leaves will prompt new shoots and foliage to develop. It will also delay flowering and the formation of seeds.  Removing the flower stalks can also help to prolong leaf production. Do not harvest the center of the plant as it may not grow back.

    You can harvest dill early in the growing season by either cutting it back to about 4 inches of growth or from all around the plant.

    The best time to pick dill leaves is just before the flowers open. They should be sprayed with water at least overnight before harvest and should be picked up early in the morning.

    How to harvest dill edible flowers

    In addition to the leaves, dill flowers are also edible and can be harvested. They are bright yellow and delicious. Dill flowers are great for garnishing both sweet and savory dishes and sales. They are best consumed fresh. To harvest the flowers, simply snip off what your need. They can even be stored in the freezer for later use.

    Read about Are Cilantro Flowers Edible?

    How to harvest dill seeds

    To prune dill, use a sharp pair of scissors or pruning shears to cut off the frond-like leaves at the top of the plant, above the leaf set. 

    The Best Way to Store Dill

    Freshly harvested dill can wilt quite quickly, and as it does so will start to lose its flavor and aroma. If stored properly, however, this should not be a concern. There are various ways that you can store your dill, these are;

    • Store it in the refrigerator’s crisp drawer – it will stay fresh for a few days
    • Put it in water – harvest dill with the stems and place them in a glass of water, and cover the top with a plastic bag. This way, dill leaves will stay fresh for about a week.
    • Freeze it – chop your dill into small pieces and freeze it with some water in ice cube trays. This way, you can store your dill for up to 4 months.
    • Dry it – drying will reduce the flavor of the dill but it can still be used and will store for a very long time. Chop the dill up and dry it until it is crumbly. You can then store it in an airtight container.
    • Stick to hang drying – instead of cutting the dill up before drying it, you can hang the dill leaves together. Tie them up with a string, and hang them upside down in a well-ventilated area. Allow them to air dry until they are crumbling and then store them in an airtight container or ziplock bag.

    Conclusion – How to Harvest Dill Properly and Save It for Later

    There you have it, the best way to harvest dill and save it properly. Dill is such an easy herb to grow and has so many versatile uses from culinary to health to fragrances. Once you start growing it, it can take over your growing environment if it is not properly controlled.

    Knowing how to harvest dill properly and save it for later will help you to enjoy the best out of your harvest. There are so many different ways that you can store dill, depending on how long you want to keep it. You can freeze, refrigerate and even dry this amazing herb for later use, ensuring that you can have a constant supply all year round without having to wait for its ideal growing season.

    Depending on where you live, you may even be able to grow dill all year round depending on the climate. If that is not an option for you, you can just select the dwarf variety of dill that can be grown indoors where you can manipulate temperatures.

    With so many options to choose from when it comes to varieties, growing conditions, and storage of dill, you can definitely find an option to suit you. There is absolutely no reason why you can’t enjoy this amazing and versatile herb.

    Happy gardening!

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    Dill seeds have a teardrop shape and have a characteristic brown stripy coat. To harvest them, wait for the flowers to open and turn brown before trimming them off and drying the seed. 

    Another way to harvest them is to cut off the fading flowers and place them in a paper bag, in an upside-down position. Tie this bag and hang it up somewhere where it will be exposed to sunlight, where it will dry. After the seeds ripen, they will fall into the bag and then they will be ready for storage.

     

    How to Prune Dill

    Pruning dill can extend its life span. Picking it often, like with most herbs and vegetables can encourage growth and will result in strong healthy plants.

    To prune dill, use a sharp pair of scissors or pruning shears to cut off the frond-like leaves at the top of the plant, above the leaf set. 

    The Best Way to Store Dill

    Freshly harvested dill can wilt quite quickly, and as it does so will start to lose its flavor and aroma. If stored properly, however, this should not be a concern. There are various ways that you can store your dill, these are;

    • Store it in the refrigerator’s crisp drawer – it will stay fresh for a few days
    • Put it in water – harvest dill with the stems and place them in a glass of water, and cover the top with a plastic bag. This way, dill leaves will stay fresh for about a week.
    • Freeze it – chop your dill into small pieces and freeze it with some water in ice cube trays. This way, you can store your dill for up to 4 months.
    • Dry it – drying will reduce the flavor of the dill but it can still be used and will store for a very long time. Chop the dill up and dry it until it is crumbly. You can then store it in an airtight container.
    • Stick to hang drying – instead of cutting the dill up before drying it, you can hang the dill leaves together. Tie them up with a string, and hang them upside down in a well-ventilated area. Allow them to air dry until they are crumbling and then store them in an airtight container or ziplock bag.

    Conclusion – How to Harvest Dill Properly and Save It for Later

    There you have it, the best way to harvest dill and save it properly. Dill is such an easy herb to grow and has so many versatile uses from culinary to health to fragrances. Once you start growing it, it can take over your growing environment if it is not properly controlled.

    Knowing how to harvest dill properly and save it for later will help you to enjoy the best out of your harvest. There are so many different ways that you can store dill, depending on how long you want to keep it. You can freeze, refrigerate and even dry this amazing herb for later use, ensuring that you can have a constant supply all year round without having to wait for its ideal growing season.

    Depending on where you live, you may even be able to grow dill all year round depending on the climate. If that is not an option for you, you can just select the dwarf variety of dill that can be grown indoors where you can manipulate temperatures.

    With so many options to choose from when it comes to varieties, growing conditions, and storage of dill, you can definitely find an option to suit you. There is absolutely no reason why you can’t enjoy this amazing and versatile herb.

    Happy gardening!

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  • What Size Garden Hose for Pressure Washers: Best Sizes

    What Size Garden Hose for Pressure Washers: Best Sizes

    A garden hose pressure washer can serve as a great tool for cleaning different surfaces and objects in your garden. Whether you want to clean your aged deck, stained concrete, dirty fence, and so on, a pressure washer can get the job done easily. But what size garden hose for pressure washers?  Let’s find out.

    Rather than using your regular low-pressure hose to clean these surfaces, you can simply connect your regular garden hose to a pressure washer. However, you also need to get the ideal garden hose size that will fit the pressure washer for optimal results.

    A garden hose pressure washer will help you get rid of any dirt that may be deposited in any porous material. Hence, this makes the pressure washer an effective tool for cleaning brick, wood, mortar, and paving tiles. So, here is an informative guide about garden hose pressure washers and what size garden hose is for pressure washers. 

    Garden Hose Pressure Washer

    A garden hose pressure washer is an electric-powered tool that is designed to take in water from a regular garden hose and this toll generates an increased water pressure. This works with the help of the mechanical pump that forces the water flowing in to move up through a narrow hose and out through the nozzle by directing the flow of water.

    Garden Hose Pressure Washer

    5 Main parts of a pressure washer

    Before you begin to work on these tools, you should have some info about the various parts of a pressure washer. We have 5 main parts to a pressure washer and they are:

    1. Water pump: this is responsible for pumping water with enough force to bring about high-pressure output used for cleaning tough materials.
    2. Engine or motor: gas or electricity is what the engine or motor runs on. So, an electric pressure washer will require plugging into an electrical outlet. Then the one that runs on gas will require the gas tank to be filled before use.
    3. Water inlet: the water inlet needs to be connected to the garden hose to supply constant water to the pressure washer.
    4. High-pressure hose: once water can flow into the pressure washer, it is pumped out through the high-pressure hose. Now, this hose tends to vary in length but they are usually about 20 to 50 feet.
    5. Wand and nozzle attachments: you can find the wand at the end of the high-pressure hose which is installed with the nozzle attachment. The direction and water output of the pressure washer can be controlled by this wand. There is a trigger that needs to be squeezed on the wand for water to spray out of the nozzle at the end of the wand.

    What Size Garden Hose for Pressure Washers: Ideal Size

    The common garden hose size diameters include 5/8, 3/ 4, and half inches. However, when it comes to connecting your garden hose to a pressure washer, you might want to consider going for a bigger size such as one inch or 1 ¼ inch.

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    The reason is that once the water from the pressure washer enters the garden hose, more room is required to move or flow through. Therefore, to ensure there is adequate space for increased water flow, a wider end of the garden hose is required.

    • A garden hose with a diameter size of one and a quarter inches can take up to 2000 PSI. Hence, this can handle almost nearly all types of pressure washers you may find without allowing them to destroy your plant or flare up your area.
    • With a diameter size of one inch, it can handle up to 1500 PSI. This size is ideal for high-end pressure washers. However, if the pressure washer is more low-end, then it can still handle it.

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    What Size Garden Hose for the Pressure Washer? 

    The length of the hose may not really matter except the hose is extremely long. You can go for a length of 25 feet of hose for your balconies, patio, as well as small yards. However, when you’re dealing with bigger yards, you will need a longer length (as long as 50 feet) to get to corners that are hard to reach. But know that longer hose length filled with water will feel heavy to carry or drag around.

    You can have a decrease of about 4 PSI per 100 feet for an average 5/8 inch supply hose. What most manufacturers recommend is a pressure washer with a minimum of 20 PSI.

    Hose Length Needed

    Can a Longer Garden Hose Decrease Water Pressure?

    The length of the garden hose can truly affect the pressure of water as well as the rate of flow. If the length of the water hose is long, it can lower the flow of water and vice versa.

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    Garden Hose Pressure Washer: Precautions to Take

    Sometimes spraying your face with some water can feel refreshing, especially in hot weather outdoors. A regular garden hose stream is not so forceful, so if it touches your face, it may not cause any harm.

    However, you need to take care when using a garden hose pressure washer if it is releasing very high water pressure. If this high-pressure water sprays on your face, it may cause serious damage to some parts of your face.

    Your eyes may be seriously affected and it may cause serious bruising and abrasions on the skin. Therefore, ensure you learn how to handle this tool with proper care.

    You can further take some good steps by wearing protective eyewear, closed-toe shoes, and gloves just to keep yourself safe.

    Can You Use an Expandable Hose With a Pressure Washer?

    To put it simply, yes you can. However, the hose must be between your hose and the water inlet of the washer. If you’re unsure whether you can do this with your expandable hose, try referring to the manufacturer’s guide for more detailed information.

    DIY Garden Hose Pressure Washer

    If you’re wondering how to make your own pressure washer from the comfort of your home, then look no further. You’ll just need the following four supplies:

    • plastic pen
    • plastic cable ties
    • super glue
    • garden hose

    Now all you need to do is:

    1. Choose a pen. The pen should be easy to dismantle and have a similar width to your hose.
    2. Disassemble. Disassemble the pen completely so you’re left with singular components. The only parts you’ll need are the tip and the main plastic bulk of the pen. The rest can be recycled or reused for another project.
    3. Glue. Using your super glue, glue the tip and plastic back together again and leave it to dry.
    4. Insert pen. Place the dried pen into your hose so that it fits snugly (place it around halfway into the hose itself) – this is why the width of the pen must be similar to the width of the hose. Take two cable ties and tie both around the end to ensure the pen stays firmly in place.
    5. Test. Slowly turn on your tap and check that it isn’t too aggressive. Your DIY garden hose pressure washer is now ready to use!

    What if I Have Weak Water Pressure?

    You may notice that it’s not the pressure nozzle that’s the problem, but your water pressure itself. If this is the case, you can test this and fix the problem with ease. Let’s take a closer look.

    Grab a bucket and fill it with water and add around 1/4 cup of bleach. Coil your hose and place it into the bucket, completely covered in water. Leave for at least 8 hours and then move the hose to a second bucket. This should have clean water in and leave for another hour or two. Reattach the hose itself to your tap and turn on the water, allowing any excess badness to wash away.

    Where to Buy High-Pressure Hose Clamps?

    You can buy high-pressure hose clamps from many stores, online, and in person. However, I’ve found that the easiest place to find high-pressure hose clamps is Amazon. In terms of ease and price, it doesn’t get better than Amazon for high-pressure hose clamps. These are essential for any budding gardener. Just be sure to buy the correct size for your hose.

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    Final Word: What Size Garden Hose for Pressure Washers?

    A garden hose pressure washer can do a great job cleaning lots of surfaces and objects. And this article provides an informative guide on the things you need to know about this useful tool.

    If you’re looking for an average of the size you’re most likely to use for a garden hose pressure washer, the best size to use is around 1 1/4 inches. This allows good water flow and good power – both of which are imperative for an effective pressure washer. Do you have any tips or tricks when it comes to what size garden hose for the pressure washer to use? If so, please feel free to let us know in the comments below. And remember, sharing is caring!

    FAQs

    How do I make my garden hose high pressure?

    You can get more pressure on your garden hose by simply turning the bolt on the PRV clockwise on your main water supply near your water meter.

    Can you attach the pressure washer to the hose?

    Yes, it is possible to attach a pressure washer to your hose. Select a nozzle that fits and connect the pressure washer to the water supply line with the garden hose.

    Does the length of a hose affect water pressure?

    Yes, the length of the hose can have some effect on the water pressure. This implies that the longer the pipe of the hose, the more the water pressure will drop.

    Can you use a 100 ft water hose on a pressure washer?

    You can use a 100 feet water hose on a pressure washer. Just know that a longer hose tends to minimize the water pressure slowly.

  • Plant With Purple Under Leaves: 7 Most Popular

    Plant With Purple Under Leaves: 7 Most Popular

    Many of us love to have houseplants in our various homes because they give that sweet look to our space. There are so many houseplants to choose and some of them even come in different captivating colors. A plant with purple under leaves is what we will be looking at in this post.

    These houseplants with purple underleaves give this warm texture and add a royal appeal to your indoor space. They can fit perfectly into your interiors and you can even grow them in combination with other green houseplants.

    A plant with purple under leaves will be listed here so continue reading for some insight on this.

    Plant With Purple Under Leaves: 7 Most Popular

    Below is the list of some common houseplants with purple under leaves:

    1.    Oyster plant

    A plant with purple under leaves that is quite popular is the oyster plant. The oyster plant originates from Mexico, Brazil, and Guatemala and this lovely plant is a resistant and hardy plant that can thrive well in containers. You can also grow this plant outdoors in your garden in areas with mild winters.

    The leaves of the oyster plant stand erect and have a height of up to 6 inches long with purple reverse growing densely on the stem forming spiral rosettes.

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    The amount of light an oyster plant receives usually determines the color intensity. So, if this plant is positioned in a deep shade spot, it can lose its purple hues. However, don’t expose oyster plants to direct bright sunlight because this can scorch the plant.

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    2.    Wandering jew – A plant with purple underleaves

    Another popular houseplant with purple under leaves is Wandering Jew which is also known as Tradescantia Zebrina. Wandering Jew is a modest and durable houseplant with this charming and enchanting colored creeper that grows naturally in woodland and open fields in Mexico.

    The plant is characterized by this oval, 3 to 4 inches long shiny leaves of silver-green stripes that are oppositely arranged. Its intensely colored leaves grow densely on watery and thick stems.

    Wandering Jew houseplant is a perfect fit for hanging baskets and you can place it on your east and west windows, forming a two to three feet long colorful cascade. This plant is quite tolerant to most temperatures except for freezing temperatures. The plant is easy to grow and maintain and it’s great for beginners.

    3.    Calathea medallion

    Calathea Medallion is also referred to as Calathea Veitchiana and this plant is one stunning plant with purple under leaves. The plant is from the Marantaceae family and it originates from the jungle of the Amazon and South America, where it grows under the shade of high tropical vegetation.

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    You need to take care of this plant because the broad leaves tend to react strongly to adverse conditions. Hence, you must pay close attention by providing the plant with increased humidity levels, temperature between 65 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit, and moderately moist soil.

    4.    Alocasia amazonica polly

    Alocasia Amazonica Polly is a plant from the Araceae family. The plant is characterized by its large, arrow foliage with pronounced white nervation.

    This plant may not be the easiest plant to grow, but it has this captivating look that makes the extra effort worth it. It is a plant with purple underleaves grown indoors.

    However, note that the plant contains poisonous calcium oxalate and this can cause some health issues for both humans and pets.

    Provide this houseplant with bright filtered light, a humid environment, and warm conditions. So, because this is a warm-loving plant, you will need to water it during its growing season at least two times a week. Then water once every 7-14 days during winter.

    The plant doesn’t like dry air, non-permeable soil, or low temperatures. So, it’s a good idea to mist the plant often and avoid exposing the plant to temperatures below 55 degrees Fahrenheit. Also, avoid exposing the plant to direct sunlight.

    Additionally, clean the shiny leather leaves regularly by using a moist cloth.

    5.    Gynura sarmentosa – Houseplants with purple underleaves

    Gynura sarmentosa is a lovely houseplant that is characterized by its nettle-like leaves covered with thick purple hairs. The plant looks so velvety and refined and it grows naturally in tropical Asia as a small shrub with shoots that rely on each other. This plant is also great for a hanging basket and its stem will spread in all directions.

    Gynura Sarmentosa thrives in warm and humid conditions. However, take note not to spray its hairy leaves.

    6.    Stromanthe sanguinea

    Stromanthe Sanguinea features this artistic white and green colored leaf surface with this intense purple reverse. This intense purple reverse is mostly pronounced at night when the plant folds its leaves.

    Care for this plant by providing it with bright but indirect sunlight, a humidity of at least 60%, well-draining soil, and moderate watering.

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    7.    Cetenanthe plant

    The cetenanthe plant is also referred to as the Never Never plant and it is from the Marantaceae family that comes from the rainforests of Northeast Brazil. The plant features this large silver-green striped oblong leaves that grow densely from the rhizome root.

    This plant grows optimally in a partially shaded spot, with well-draining soil, and a warm and humid environment that is similar to its homeland. This is why you need to provide this plant with extra moisture by spraying the leaves, using a humidifier, or simply placing them in your bathroom.

    Fuzzy Green Leaves With Purple Underneath – What is it?

    You may see a plant that has fuzzy green leaves, with purple coloring (it can sometimes look almost maroon or burgundy) underneath. If this is the case, you’re probably looking at the Velvet Calathea (otherwise known as the Calathea Rufibarba). The leaves will be long, but thin. What’s interesting is that they’re hairy underneath, which is where they get their furry nickname from.

    This particular plant is relatively easy to care for, but you need to ensure that it’s free from any pests often. And you’ll also need to ensure it receives the nutrients it requires. You should water this plant every five days or so and keep it n temperatures between 64F and 73F. While it can survive in slightly lower temperatures, it’s a tropical plant, so it does enjoy its humidity.

    Green Leaves With Purple Veins – What Does This Mean?

    Another plant that you may have seen has green leaves, that are covered in deep purple veins. If this is the case, you’re likely looking at the Fishnet Stockings Coleus. This plant gets its nickname from the veins themselves looking like stockings. However, the purple color does eventually change to green. This plant can grow up to around 2 feet in height.

    Purple Leaf Perennials: Popular Varieties

    There are many popular varieties of purple-leaf perennials. Let’s take a closer look at some of our top picks.

    • Cercis canadensis. You may know this plant better by its nickname, forest pansy. It’s a versatile plant that can last up to 20 years and can reach up to 8 meters in height if provided with the right growing conditions. This plant enjoys the sun and should be kept in well-drained soil. This plant changes colors throughout the year. Such as reddish leaves in Spring, burgundy leaves in Summer, and orange and gold in Autumn.
    • Cotinus. You may know this plant better by its nickname, royal purple. This is a shrub that has dark purple, oval-shaped, leaves. This plant enjoys the sun and will thrive in most types of soils. As long as it’s pruned often, this plant can grow up to 8 feet in height.
    • Heuchera. You may know this plant better by its nickname, the midnight rose. This plant is the perfect mixture of both purple and vibrant pink…which doesn’t sit well with some gardeners. But, I, personally, love it! However, it can be quite prone to vine weevil, so it’s best to plant outdoors, in open ground. This plant enjoys full sun or dappled shade.

    plant with purple leaves

    Purple Leaf Plant Identification

    The best way to find out what purple leaf plant you have if you’re unsure, is using an app such as Plant Net Identify. Or try to find some other obvious markers to help identify which species your plant is. Most of the time, the term “purple” is used loosely, as it’s not often that the leaf of a plant is purely purple. It often has red highlights or other colored undertones. However, in previous years, gardeners have enjoyed adding purple-leaf plants to their gardens.

    Additional Say: Plant With Purple Under Leaves

    We have listed popular houseplants with purple under leaves and some details about them. However, note that there are many other types with these features. There are many to choose from, and all are just as gorgeous as the next! Do you know of any other plant with purple under the leaves? If so, please feel free to let us know in the comments below. And remember, sharing is caring! 

    FAQs

    What plant has purple under the leaf?

    Some of the common plants that have purple under their leaf include wandering Jew, oyster plant, calathea medallion, stromanthe sanguine, ctenanthe plant, gynura sarmentosa, and many more.

    Why are leaves purple underneath?

    Some plants naturally have purple leaves underneath. However, if your plant is not naturally purple underneath and it shows purple, then it may be a sign of phosphorous deficiency.

    How do you fix purple leaves?

    Fixing a plant that is showing purple leaves when it isn’t naturally purple means you have to deal with phosphorus deficiency. So, you will need to make pH adjustments and flush your plants with pH and nutrients containing phosphorus.

    How do I identify a plant by its leaves?

    You can identify a plant by its leaves if you closely look at the shape and size of the plant’s leaves. For instance, broad and wide leaves can signify that the plant is a tropical plant. Then pointy pine needles can signify that the plant is an evergreen species.

  • Do Pepper Plants Come Back: Improve Your Harvest

    Do Pepper Plants Come Back: Improve Your Harvest

    Do pepper plants come back every year? Let’s get the answers to that here. Pepper is both classified as a fruit and a vegetable according to botany and culinary definitions.

    It’s a great feeling to plant, grow, nurture, and then begin to harvest your vegetables. What is more tempting is wishing you could keep your healthy vegetables growing year after year. This applies to most pepper farmers, as the plant is a slow grower, which makes it desirable to want it to keep growing.

    It will be nice if pepper plants do grow back every year. If you live in a region where the winter is not so serious, you can definitely give it a thought. The thing is, in most parts of North America and any other place where the winter is really serious, pepper plants won’t be able to survive if they are left outside.

    The best thing is to bring your pepper plants indoors and provide them with the best indoor care, especially if they are the potted indoor variety.

    Keep reading to get more answers to the question: Do pepper plants come back every year? You will also get some tips for keeping your pepper growing year after year.

    Do Pepper Plants Come Back Every Year?

    Normally, all kinds of pepper are grown as annuals by most growers. Pepper is sown, grown, picked, and then thrown into the compost heap when the season ends.

    But the truth of the matter is that pepper plants are perennials, and if you grow them and give them in the appropriate conditions, they can grow every year.

    Pepper Plants Grow Back Every Year

    Ideal Conditions to Help Pepper Grow Back Every Year

    As we mentioned, pepper plants can grow every year if you provide them with good conditions. So, let’s take a look at how to be successful at growing peppers in any type of climatic condition.

    1.    The growing temperature

    Peppers are perennials that can come back in the spring after being dormant in the previous season. This will be surprising to many North American gardeners. Peppers are mostly grown as annuals in the United States and most temperate regions in other parts of the world.

    This is because the plant will die when temperatures dip low, especially during low winter temperatures and shorter days. Peppers can’t survive the cold winter let alone when it’s freezing cold.

    In fact, during a temperature as low as 55 degrees Fahrenheit and below, it will be a waste of time sowing seeds directly into the soil. The seeds won’t even germinate at all. And this will also have you wondering if pepper plants really do grow back every year.

    You can, however, proffer a solution of laying down black plastic mulch or other non-treated mulch to keep the soil temperature warm with a heating pad.

    2.    Soil and fertilizer type

    The ideal soil for growing peppers successfully is slightly acidic soil with pH levels of 6.5-7. Before transplanting seedlings, endeavor to break the soil up. This will help get their roots established.

    Breaking up the soil before transplanting, will also drain well, as well as retain moisture. The best type of fertilizer for peppers is compost. You can as well conduct a soil test before adding fertilizer to the soil.

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    For example, if the test shows that the soil is lacking in phosphorus, a fertilizer with phosphorus can be added to the soil. Otherwise, if the reverse is the case, there will be no need to add phosphorus to the soil. Another thing is that you need to be cautious when adding nitrogen to the soil as too much nitrogen can make the plant produce large foliage.

    Read more about Can Compost Worms Survive Winter?

    3.    Availability of sunlight and water

    For a successfully grown pepper plant, full sunlight of about six to eight hours must be available to the plants. Or rather, provide a grow light and make sure the soil temperature is constantly around 80 degrees Fahrenheit if you’re starting your pepper seeds indoors.

    Pepper plants also need constant thorough moisture. This can be achieved by not letting the soil become dry. You can encourage healthy root development by watering deeply. Too much watering may not be required during rainy seasons.

    And if you’re growing your pepper plants in sandy soil, watering will be needed more frequently. This is because, unlike loam or clay, sand cannot retain moisture.

    4.    Prepare your plants before overwintering

    It is better to plant your pepper in pots or portable raised beds if you’re planning to save them for another year.

    You can also re-transplant mature plants that were planted directly in the ground. However, re-transplanting pepper plants may lead to damaging the plants’ roots badly if you’re not careful.

    Prepare Your Plants Before Overwintering

    5.    Move pepper plants indoors

    Peppers can’t tolerate frost; hence the temperature doesn’t need to become freezing cold before they begin to die off. When the temperature constantly dips low to around 55-65 degrees Fahrenheit, move them indoors.

    It doesn’t even have to be inside the house. It could be a secluded spot or covered place that can shield the plants from the chilly temperatures.

    So, when the sunlight your plants usually receive per day doesn’t stay constant at six to eight hours anymore, it indicates that your pepper plants should be moved indoors.

    Also, when you move them indoors during frost, you can use a heating pad under your pot to provide heat.

    Check out When To Harvest Broccolini – The Best Time

    Perennial Pepper Plants: Cold-Hardy Pepper Varieties

    There are cold-resistant pepper varieties, early maturers, and those that can adapt to many conditions.

    So, choosing any of these types of varieties will also help increase your chances of being successful at overwintering and growing back every year. Gardeners in the northern region will love the idea of planting these varieties, especially in regions where they have short growing seasons.

    There are also cold-tolerant varieties that can tolerate both cold and heat. You will also get to enjoy most of the cold-tolerant varieties because they are either mild or sweet.

    So, examples of cold-tolerant pepper varieties are Ratund, Highlander, Chile peppers, Carmen, Ace, and Obriy.

    Do Capsicum Plants Regrow?

    You may be curious as to whether capsicum plants regrow, like other types of peppers. And the simple answer is: yes they do. It just requires both time and cares to ensure their regrowth. Let’s take a closer look at some top tips to ensure they make it through the winter.

    • As soon as you notice the temperatures plummeting, you should place some hay bales around your plants, and ensure the plants are the same height.
    • You’ll also need to remove any peppers from the plants too. At this point, you can cover the plants and bales with a layer of glass.
    • When the frost is predicted, you may also want to cover it with a sheet, for an extra layer of protection.
    • Check that your soil is moist enough, and water when needed.
    • Once the weather begins to warm up, you can remove the glass, and then remove the hay bales once Spring hits. At this point, your capsicum is ready to regrow!

    How Long Will a Pepper Plant Live?

    When it comes to pepper plants, a range of factors can affect how long they’ll live. However, the average life span is around 3-5 years.

    Some factors you’ll need to consider when extending the life of your pepper plant are as follows:

    • Environment. The environment is the main factor. The more consistent the environment, the more likely your pepper plant will have a longer life. In fact, pepper plants have been known to last up to ten years when cared for adequately indoors. Your plants can last many years if grown outdoors too. However, you need to ensure they’re overwintered. If not, they will likely die before the next growing season.
    • Plant species. Some species of pepper will survive longer than others, as it’s just part of their nature. For example, Rocoto and Manzano peppers are both varieties that have a long life expectancy.

    How Tall Do Pepper Plants Grow?

    Unfortunately, there is no set height that your pepper plants will grow, because it all depends on the variety of pepper that you’re growing. For example, some may grow to only 20 inches in height, whereas others can grow up to 6 feet in height. It’s important to research the type of pepper you’re choosing to grow before you plant it.

    How to Overwinter Pepper Plants

    If you’re looking for a quick guide to overwinter pepper plants, then look no further. Let’s take a closer look.

    • Add soil to your new pot; around 1-2 inches.
    • Bring your pepper plant indoors and remove any remaining peppers. You’ll also need to prune the plant.
    • Remove all leaves from your plant, as well as the root ball.
    • Use scissors to trim the roots and then place them in your fresh soil.
    • Water thoroughly and place in a warm area, where the sunlight reaches.
    • Monitor and prune weekly until the growing season comes around.

    When to Overwinter Peppers

    The best time to start overwintering peppers is before the first frost. You should never let the temperature of your pepper plants go below freezing, as they are unlikely to survive.

    Will Pepper Plants Come Back After Winter?

    Yes. As long as extra precautions and care are taken with your pepper plants, they absolutely can come back after winter. And are likely to give you peppers for years to come!

    pepper plants come back after winter

    Conclusion: Do Pepper Plants Come Back?

    To conclude answer your question; do pepper plants come back? Be rest assured that even if pepper plants are grown as annuals in most regions, you can successfully grow them as perennials.

    Do you have any tips or tricks when it comes to ensuring that your pepper plants come back every year? If so, please feel free to let us know in the comments below. And remember, sharing is caring! 

    FAQs

    How do I save pepper plants for next year?

    You can save your pepper for the next year by supplying adequate growing conditions to your pepper plants. Pepper is naturally a perennial crop so it’s possible to grow them for the following year.

    How many years can pepper plants live?

    The duration pepper plant can live is between 1.5 years to 3 years. So, this shows that pepper plants are perennials if you provide them with the right growing conditions to live through another year.

    Will pepper plants come back after winter?

    If you expose your pepper plant to chilly temperatures, they may not survive. So, your pepper plant may not come back after winter. This is why you need to shelter your pepper plant if you want them to overwinter.

  • Soak Beans Before Planting: Ultimate Guide for 2023

    Soak Beans Before Planting: Ultimate Guide for 2023

    You can soak beans before planting and make the germination process faster, which can sometimes be derailed by external factors.

    Why pay more for green beans when you can grow your own? It is one of the easiest ways to save money if you have a garden. If you saved some seeds from last year’s harvest, you don’t need to buy new seeds as you can use the same ones to plant a new crop.

    One of the easiest ways to guarantee germination for your green beans is to germinate them in water. When kept moist for several days, the outer shell cracks open and begins to sprout without having to push through any soil or planting matter in the process.

    Soaking seeds in water increases your germination rate and reduces potential diseases that prevent the seeds from proper germination.

    Which Seeds Are Appropriate for Soaking?

    Seeds with hard coats are the best for soaking. They include beans, peas, pumpkins, squash, corn, etc. Smaller seeds like carrots, lettuce, radishes, and the like are hard to soak and don’t need it at all.

    But do you know you can soak your flower seeds before sowing? For example, sunflower, sweetpea, lupine, and nasturtium take to soaking very well.

    Which Seeds Are Appropriate For Soaking

    How to Soak Beans Before Planting

    This is an easy process. However, the three ways you can do it are as follows: 

    1. Option 1. Put the seeds in a shallow bowl and cover them with water. Leave them for several days, observing them daily until you see them sprouting. Once they are fully sprouted they are all ready for planting.
    2. Option 2. Soak in an acidic environment by adding a tablespoon of coffee or a few drops of kitchen vinegar. The idea is to create conditions where the seeds first get warm and dump to germinate. The acidic environment creates the warmth that the seeds need to germinate quickly.
    3. Option 3. Use a wet paper towel or napkin for germinating your green bean seeds. Wet your paper towel with water but don’t make it too wet. Lay the paper towel on a clean surface and spread a single layer of seeds, leaving enough room between them and around the edges. Fold the other half of the towel over or lay another towel on top of the seeds. Secure the borders to ensure no seed falls out and set them aside. Place the wrapped seeds into a Ziploc bag or a jar and tightly shut them to hold in moisture and keep them in a warm area out of direct sunlight. Check for sprouting after five days by opening the paper towels likely and peeking in without unwrapping all of the seeds. If they haven’t germinated yet, reseal the bag and leave them for a few more days.

    How Long to Soak Bean Seeds Before Planting?

    Soak your seeds long enough for them to swell but not too long before they begin to turn sour and rot. Overnight is a reasonable amount of time, although many sources recommend 8 to 12 hours and no more than 24 hours.

    Too much soaking will cause the seeds to start decomposing. If you use boiling water, the soaking time decreases. Most people swear by using warm water and soaking at bedtime and removing them first thing in the morning. Hard seeds like beans benefit from scarification before soaking, but be careful not to puncture the seed completely.

    Other Considerations: Soak Beans Before Planting

    Don’t soak your seeds the night before rain is expected but wait until the forecast promises a good planting season. This helps you be able to get into the garden and not compact the soil too much. You don’t want to hold onto seeds you already germinated; instead, you want to immediately get them in the ground.

    Remember, just because you soaked your seeds doesn’t mean you will not need to water them as soon as you plant them. Your seeds will only hold the right amount of moisture around the seed, not around the soil. They will need more water around the soil to necessitate their growth.

    For those who use damp paper towels for germinating the seeds, be delicate with the seeds when moving them to the garden or the pot to avoid breaking the stem or root. Don’t worry if the shoot is on its side; gravity will help it find its way down or up.

    Saving Green Bean Seeds – Step by Step

    So to be able to plant your seeds, you will need to have saved them from the previous harvest. Saving green bean seeds is easy; all you have to do is follow a few steps.

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    Step 1: Choose the best green beans

    Select a few healthy plants you would want to save the seeds from until the final harvest. Select the first plants to produce mature beans, tall and robust with dark green leaves with a high number of pods.

    Step 2: Mark the seed-grown plants and wait

    To ensure you don’t destroy your harvest early, you can try tying something around them. Let the pods grow to maturity before you harvest them.

    Step 3: Pick the dried-out pods

    Please wait until the pods turn completely brown before you harvest them. There should be no green on them at all. You will know the seeds are ripe when you shake the pods and hear the rattle of beans moving around inside. Squeeze the pods, and they should be crunchy to the touch, then you know they are ready to pick.

    Step 4: Remove the seeds from the pods

    Once you harvest the dry beans, remove them from the pods safely without damaging the seeds. Examine every seed, saving only the perfect ones. Throw away any seed eaten by insects, wrinkled, or has a different color from the rest of them.

    Place the seeds on a paper towel to air dry for several days and finally, store them in a clean, dry container that is labeled waiting for the next season to plant them.

    Remove The Seeds From The Pods

    How to Germinate Beans Fast

    You may be wondering what the quickest way to germinate beans is. While many beans can be germinated both indoors and outdoors, I find it best to do it inside, where you have control over all factors. When they’re ready to grow outdoors, they can be transplanted outside with ease.

    Some quick germination methods for beans are:

    • Method #1. Place seeds in a bowl and cover with water. Leave in a warm, dry place and check daily. After a few days, your beans should begin to sprout.
    • Method #2. Grab a seed and try to fill each hole with potting soil. Add seeds to the soil and keep on a heat mat.
    • Method #3. Grab a paper towel and soak it in water. Rinse the towel until it’s moist, but not dripping. On one side of the towel, add the seeds and then fold the other half of the paper towel over the top. Add the towel to a plastic bag and keep it at room temperature, out of direct sunlight.

    It’s important to keep the conditions as ideal as possible during germination, as this is the most important time of a plant’s life. Some key factors you should consider are:

    • Warm environment. Germination is sped up by a warm environment, so using grow lights, a heat mat, or even the use of a greenhouse will aid your germination.
    • Weather. It’s best to plant seeds when the soil is at its warmest, which is often during the day. Some say that it’s best to soak your seeds in warm water, and then place them in warm soil, around late morning.

    What Do Green Beans Look Like When They Sprout?

    You may be curious as to what green beans look like when they sprout. Green beans go through four stages in their life, and they look different in each one. Let’s take a closer look.

    • The first stage is the seed. This is what it starts as, and what needs to be planted for your seed to grow.
    • The second stage is germination. This stage is sometimes also known as sprouting. This means that the roots of the plant are beginning to form. At this point, they’ll be loops start to form in the soil. They’re usually firm and thick.
    • The third stage is growth. This is the stage where your beans will really start to take shape. You’ll often notice that the leaves at the bottom are the largest; this is to ensure the plant can absorb everything it needs to thrive. At this point, you should also see the beginnings of a small plant.
    • The final stage is flowering. With plants such as green beans, you can expect them to flower after around two months. At this time, you may notice that wildlife such as insects and birds are interested in your plants.

    Green Bean Seeds

    Can I Plant Fresh Green Bean Seeds?

    It’s not recommended to use fresh green bean seeds for your planting, but instead, it’s best to leave them on the plant until they start to change in color and rattle when shaken. This is likely to take a few extra weeks, but it’s the best way to do this. Once you’ve harvested them, take them out from the pods and leave them inside for a few weeks. Once ready to plant, shell them.

    Final Thoughts: Soak Beans Before Planting 

    To soak green beans before planting couldn’t be easier! You can also save yourself some good-quality seeds from your green beans. Don’t shy away from keeping your seeds, especially if you notice the variety you’re growing is excellent.

    Do you have any tips or tricks when it comes to soaking beans before planting? If so, please feel free to let us know in the comments below. And remember, sharing is caring! 

    FAQs

    Do green beans need to be soaked before planting?

    Green beans are one of the easiest vegetables to grow, but they do have a few quirks. They require a long growing season, but if you have a greenhouse, or can plant them early in your garden, they will produce well.

    Yes. Green beans must be soaked in a solution of water and potassium nitrate for at least 6 hours, up to 24 hours. Potassium nitrate is available at your local garden center. This step will help the bean seeds to germinate more quickly, as well as make them more resistant to disease. 

    If the instructions say to soak them for 24 hours, then they are probably just referring to an old-fashioned method of planting.

    Newer methods call for rinsing the beans to get rid of any excess dirt and sand, and then planting them right away. I don’t think soaking for 24 hours is necessary. If you soak beans in a solution of water and salt, it helps prevent bean disease. There are two diseases that can affect beans. The most common is Fusarium wilt, which occurs when the soil is too wet and cool and the roots have no air circulation. Soaking the beans in a solution of water and salt is supposed to kill off any spores that might be on the beans when they are planted. The other type of bean disease is Phythophthora root rot. This occurs when the soil is too dry and hot, with no air circulation. Soaking beans in a solution of water and salt also kills off any spores that might be on the beans when they are planted.

    How do you soak green beans?

    Soaking beans is very easy. Just place the seeds in a bowl and cover them with water. Let the seeds soak for at least 8 hours or up to 12 hours depending on your beans. After they are soaked, drain the seeds and place them in a mesh bag (or paper towel) in a warm place where they will germinate. You want the temperature to be around 80 degrees Fahrenheit. The ideal temperature for germination is between 70-80 degrees.

    The seeds need light but not direct sunlight. If you put the seeds in direct sunlight, they may get scorched. Keep the seeds out of the fridge or freezer because this can stop the germination process.

    How do you dry green bean seeds for planting?

    Depends on how much seed and the climate you live in. It is not necessary to dry them completely. They will germinate more easily if they are moist, but not soaking wet. If your seeds are damp or wet, you can place them on a cookie sheet and put it in an oven on the lowest setting, about 200 degrees F for an hour or two. This will dry them out just enough so they will sprout.

  • Bone Meal for Tomatoes: Best Uses & How Much?

    Bone Meal for Tomatoes: Best Uses & How Much?

    How much bone meal per tomato plant? This article will help you determine how much bone meal you should give per tomato plant and how to effectively use bone meal for tomatoes. 

    Tomatoes are heavy feeders and require a lot of nutrients. Bone meal is one of the easiest ways to give an extra boost to your tomato’s health and growth. Let’s take a closer look at using bone meal for tomatoes.

    Bone Meal Nutrition Facts

    Bone meal made from animal bones is rich in phosphorus, calcium, and nitrogen. It can be used as fertilizer for tomato plants. Both fresh and dried bone meals are available on the market; however, make sure that you buy organic bone meals without any chemical fertilizers or fillers added.

    Fresh bone meal contains a high amount of water (moisture) which can cause problems if not removed before storage. The dried form provides more nutrient content than the fresh form because it has fewer moisture contents; thus, making it easy to store for a long time without spoiling.

    One tablespoon of bone meal provides seven grams of phosphorus and nine grams of calcium, which equals 13% of the recommended daily value (RDA) for phosphorus and 18% RDA for calcium.

    Bone meal supplies important nutrients that help encourage health in plants because it contains both phosphorus and calcium. The ratio between these two minerals can affect how each nutrient contributes to your plants’ overall health. Using too much phosphorus can cause growth problems, especially for seedlings. Excessive phosphorus can stunt a plant’s root growth and interfere with how well a plant absorbs other nutrients.

    Bone meal is an organic fertilizer that contains a high amount of calcium, an essential nutrient for promoting strong cell wall development in new blossoms and fruits. Calcium also helps fruit to mature properly after harvest.

    You should use bone meal as soon as possible after opening the package because the moisture from the soil or environment may cause it to become moldy or change color over time.

    Is Bone Meal Good for Tomatoes?

    Bone meal is good for tomato plants. It contains a high amount of calcium that helps in fruit formation. It contains nitrogen and phosphorus which are required by plants to produce chlorophyll while the growing stage and calcium during the fruiting stage.

    Please note: you can add bone meal directly to the soil without any preparation or cooking process. However, if you want it cooked before adding it to the soil, you can add it to the compost because raw bone meal contains a high amount of ammonia that can burn roots once mixed with soil.

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    How Much Bone Meal for Tomatoes? 

    Now that we know the benefits of this organic fertilizer to tomatoes, how much bone meal per tomato plant?

    Use 3 pounds of fresh or 1 pound of dried bone meals for 100 square feet of garden space. For example, how much bone meal per 10 tomato plants? You will need 1/2 pound of bone meal per tomato plant.

    Can You Add Too Much Bone Meal?

    It is possible to add too much bone meal and hurt your crops. Do not add too much bone meal to the soil because it will cause phytotoxicity in tomato plants. Excess amounts of nitrogen contained in it can damage leaves and slow down fruit formation or growth.

    You should avoid adding more than 0.25% nitrogen level to the soil because even if it contains plenty of phosphorus, calcium, magnesium, zinc, copper, sulfur, and other nutrients, an excess amount of nitrogen will burn the roots after absorption by the soil.

    Bone Meal for Tomatoes Benefits 

    Ways to use bone meal for tomato plants:

    • To boost the health of tomato plants, you can give it every week during the first couple of months of growth. You can also use it as transplanting fertilizer or seedling fertilizers at half the rate of how much you would give to mature plants later on. Bone meal works well for this purpose because it is rich in phosphorus which helps with root formation and healthier stem structure.
    Bone Meal Tomatoes Benefits
    • Bone meal gives a calcium source that is beneficial for both humans and soil microbes. Calcium accelerates the decomposition speed of dead materials, thus increasing nutrient availability to growing tomatoes faster than compost alone. Organic matter content also improves due to the presence of calcium in bone meal.

    Can You Add Bone Meal After Planting?

    Bone meal can be added after planting tomatoes if it is dry. However, do not add bone meal to the soil until you are ready to transplant seedlings into them because tomato plants cannot grow properly when nitrogen levels are too high. Especially for seeds that have just emerged, adding too much bone meal will result in yellow leaves or stunted growth.

    If you want to use bone meal for tomatoes as fertilizer, it is better to mix organic fertilizers with soil before planting tomatoes.

    Bone meal can be used with other organic fertilizers. For example, blood meal, cottonseed meal, and kelp extracts. This combination will provide essential nutrients needed by growing tomatoes. If bone meal is added directly into the garden or container without mixing with other ingredients first, soil microbes may not be able to absorb them properly which can lead to loss of nutrients in time.

    Bone meal works best when mixed with compost piles because they allow microbes to break down the materials slowly over time.

    You should always water your tomato plants after adding any kind of fertilizers into the soil because soluble nitrogen releases quickly into roots which affects how well it absorbs water. Watering your plants first will allow them to take up the nutrients gradually without getting too much nitrogen.

    Can You Add Bone Meal After Planting

    Using Sugar, Epsom Salt, and Bone Meal for Tomatoes

    You may be wondering how else you can use bone meal for your tomatoes. I’ve found that the use of bone meal, along with sugar and Epsom salt works very well. These three are a good trio because the sugar adds sweetness to your tomatoes, the Epsom salts add both sulfur and magnesium and the bone meal adds phosphorus.

    To plant your tomatoes, you’ll need to make a hole larger than you usually would for your tomatoes. Then you’ll need to add a cup of bone meal and a cup of sugar, along with a reasonable amount of mulch. Mix them and place them in your hole, evenly distributing them in the soil.

    Carefully place your tomato plant into the soil; be sure to bury it reasonably deep. Once planted, add around a cup of Epsom salts on top and mix them into the top of your soil using your hands. Finally, water your tomato plants with a good amount of water – and your tomatoes are ready to go.

    Disadvantages of Bone Meal

    We’ve already looked at the benefits of using bone meal for your tomato plants, but you may be wondering if there are any disadvantages. While there aren’t too many negatives, there are a few that you may want to be aware of. Let’s take a closer look.

    You can only use bone meal in soils below 7 on the pH scale. This may not be ideal. However, a good alternative is rock phosphate, which we’ll be taking a look at later in this article.

    If you’re looking for a quick fix, then this probably isn’t the best choice for you, as it’s a fertilizing choice that releases slowly.

    If used too much, overfertilization can occur. If this happens, problems may arise for your tomato plants such as yellowing leaves. It can also lead to deficiencies in other nutrients, like zinc and iron.

    If not used correctly, the smell can attract unwanted wildlife. However, as long as it’s adequately mixed in, this should not be a problem.

    Bone meal is only a good source of phosphorus, so you’ll need to use other fertilizers too, to ensure your tomato plants are receiving all of the nutrients they need.

    Rock Phosphate vs Bone Meal

    Earlier, we mentioned rock phosphate, which is a great alternative to bone meal, if you’d prefer. However, there are quite a few differences between the two. Let’s take an in-depth look at the two.

    They’re similar in that they both contain phosphorus. However, that is where the similarities start and end. The differences between the two are that for the short supply of phosphorus, bone meal is best, whereas, for a long-term supply, phosphorus is best, as it’s slower.

    Another main difference between the two is the price. Bone meal starts at around $13 per lb, whereas rock phosphate starts at around $30 per lb. So if you’re looking for a more affordable option, it’s best to use bone meal.

    Rock phosphate works best on flowers and other leafy plants, whereas bone meal works best on rooted plants, such as carrots and onions. However, you can choose to use both together, if you’d prefer – and reap the benefits of both.

    Rock Phosphate vs meal bone

    Final Thoughts: Bone Meal for Tomatoes

    Bone meal for tomatoes is beneficial in most cases. Adding too much nitrogen to the soil will hurt plants, although you can add it if your plants are mature enough. You should only use bone meal after preparing the soil with compost or manure and not mix it directly into planting holes.

    It s evident that bone meal provides your tomatoes with plenty of benefits like boosting up the nutrient content of the soil, by adding calcium source which creates healthier stem structure and roots.

    FAQs

    How should you mix bone meals for best results?

    You should not mix it directly with planting holes because adding too much phosphorus can affect how healthy tomatoes grow even if they are combined with other organic fertilizers. Therefore, it is better to prepare compost piles or manure before mixing into the soil or using as transplant fertilizer after seeds have germinated and grown some roots.  

    When should I start fertilizing my tomato plants?

    Bone meal should be added to the soil when the first set of tomatoes starts growing. Wait until your plant is about 6 – 8 inches tall before adding bone meal fertilizer. If you add it too early, it will affect how healthy or how tall they grow. 

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  • Disease Resistant Tomatoes: Top List of Varieties

    Disease Resistant Tomatoes: Top List of Varieties

    Tomato plants can be prone to a bunch of unimaginable problems or diseases capable of taking a toll on the entire crop. The good news is that you can avoid the various problems or diseases that tomato plants tend to be susceptible to. This is why we will be looking into disease resistant tomatoes.

    There are over 60 different diseases tomato plants are inclined to catch. With so many unpleasant diseases tomatoes tend to be prone to, it is only right you select the best varieties that can be resistant to most of these various tomato-related diseases.

    Diseases-resistant tomatoes have been selected and bred for years to resist some common diseases they tend to be vulnerable to. So, let’s look into the list of disease-resistant tomatoes we can go for when planning on growing our juicy tomatoes.

    Selecting Disease Resistant Tomatoes

    Even though you can take some measures to manage these diseases such as crop rotations, drip irrigation, sterilization of garden tools, and so on, all these will only control these issues to a limited range. The key to decreasing the issue of tomato disease relies mainly on choosing disease-resistant tomatoes. 

    The selection of disease-resistant tomatoes has helped a lot in reducing the risk of tomatoes being vulnerable to different diseases. However, this does not guarantee the total immunity of tomatoes to all kinds of diseases. Of all these diseases resistant varieties, no single tomato variety resistant to all diseases has been developed yet. For this reason, when choosing tomato disease-resistant varieties, we recommend you select the ones applicable to your garden.

    Selecting Disease Resistant Tomatoes

    For instance, a particular tomato breed may thrive or flourish in your garden. On the other hand, this same tomato variety may end up catching a tomato-related disease from another gardener two states away. Therefore, if verticillium wilt or tobacco mosaic virus was once a problem in your garden region in the past years, it is only ideal to choose the tomato variety resistant to this disease.

    Disease Resistant Tomatoes 

    Each variety of tomato resistance is mainly resistant to some or most tomato diseases. However, they aren’t resistant to all types of tomato-related diseases.

    When you purchase your disease-resistant tomato seeds varieties, the seed packets or seed labeling often has some abbreviations. These abbreviations or letters mark the disease-resistant variety for that specific tomato breed. Therefore, it’s important to read these abbreviations right so you can know which varieties you are purchasing.

    Understanding codes for disease resistant tomatoes 

    Here is a list of some of the most common disease-resistant tomato variety codes you may find and their meaning:

    1. AB – Alternarium Blight
    2. EB – Early Blight
    3. F – Fusarium wilt
    4. FF – Fusarium races 1 and 2
    5. FFF – Fusarium races 1, 2, and 3
    6. N – Nematode
    7. PM – Powdery Mildew
    8. T or TMV –Tobacco Mosaic Virus
    9. TSWV – Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus
    10. V – Verticillium wilt

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    Apart from these codes, other codes such as HR or IR may as well be written next to the codes. HR means High Resistance and IR means Intermediate Resistance.

    Multiple letters seen in a tomato disease-resistant variety name means the tomato is resistant to more than one disease.

    • So now that we have an idea of some codes you may come across, let’s look at an example. If you come across a seed labeled VFNT, it simply means that the seed has been bred to resist verticillium wilt, fusarium wilt, nematode, and tobacco mosaic virus.

    In all this, keep in mind that the label you find on the seed package is simply an indicator. The performance of a specific tomato variety will depend on various factors such as rainfall, soil content, environment, and plant care.

    Choosing the Right Tomato Breed for Your Garden

    A type of tomato variety may thrive well in your garden and this same variety may not do well for someone else in another state.

    This is majorly due to different climates and different soil that produce different patterns for the same tomato variety. Even those regions with slight variations in climate (temperature, rainfall, and air quality) can still cause the same tomato variety to flourish differently for different regions.

    For instance, Septoria leaf spot and early blight are tomato-related diseases that tend to progress or thrive in humid regions such as the eastern United States. Therefore, if you live in these regions, it would be wise to select tomato varieties that are resistant to early blight and Septoria leaf spots.

    Guidelines for Choosing Tomato Breed

    The guidelines below will assist you further on how to find out and select which tomato variety best suits your region:

    1. Recognize the vulnerability your region tends to face – The first important step is to discern which tomato diseases are common in your region. You can do some findings by asking your local nursery owner or having a chat with your local gardeners. You can also put a call through to your local extension office to know which tomato diseases are frequently recorded by local gardeners.

    1. Understand resistant code on the seed package – It’s also important you learn what codes are written on the seed package. We’ve given you some tips above to understand codes you may find on the seed package.

    2. Choose the best that suits your region – At the end of it all, ensure you choose the best tomato variety that suits your region.

    Which Tomato Breed is the Hardiest?

    Here is a list of some of the best tomato varieties resistant you can go for:

    • Bush big boy
    • Bush early girl
    • Sweet tangerine
    • Fourth of July
    • Big beef
    • Celebrity
    • Umamin
    • Super tasty
    • Big daddy
    • Summer girl
    Choose The Best That Suits Your Region

    All of these varieties will resist the most common tomato diseases. That includes nematode, verticillium, fusarium, and tobacco mosaic virus.

    Additional Say on Disease Resistant Tomatoes

    Knowing a great list of tomato-resistant varieties isn’t just enough. Even after you’ve purchased a hardy tomato breed that can sufficiently avoid these diseases, you need to also imbibe some measures so your plant can flourish.

    Here are some preventive measures to take:

    • Crop rotation.
    • If you’ve worked on any diseased plant, ensure you disinfect your gardening tools.
    • Water at the base of the plant.
    • Maintain moisture conditions and avoid wet and humid conditions that may entertain diseases.
    • Mulch your soil.

    Tomato Seeds Resistant to Blight

    Before we look at varieties that are resistant to blight, we must first identify what blight is. You may know blight better as late blight, tomato blight, or potato blight. It unfortunately can cause catastrophic problems for your tomatoes. It’s a fungal disease that will quickly lead tomatoes to rot and die. The more humid the environment, the more likely this is to happen.

    Some of the most common seeds resistant to blight are as follows:

    • Blush beefsteak F1. It’s sweet and juicy, which is unusual for a beefsteak tomato. This tomato usually fruits between July and October, and the best thing about it is that it’s incredibly resistant to blight.
    • Crimson cherry F1. A sweet but tangy tomato that’s small in size. It’s best at preventing late and early blight. It has an outstanding yield and will continue to fruit until the first frost begins.
    • Crimson plum F1. If you’re looking to make an incredible Bolognese or ragu, this is the tomato choice for you. It doesn’t contain many seeds and has a rich flavor. This tomato usually fruits between July and October.
    • Crimson crush F1. Flavorful and fantastic tasting. Even if other plants have blight, the Crimson Crush is hardy enough to not be affected.

    Fusarium Wilt Resistant Tomato Varieties

    If you’re looking for tomato varieties that are resistant to fusarium wilt, then look no further! You should try one of the following options:

    • Porterhouse
    • Sungold
    • Yellow Pear
    • Big Daddy
    • Rutgers
    • Summer Girl
    • Super Sauce

    Bacterial Wilt Resistant Tomato Varieties

    If you’re looking for tomato varieties that are resistant to bacterial wilt, then look no further! You should try one of the following options:

    • Tropic Bay
    • Venus
    • Neptune
    • Saturn
    • Kewalo

    Tomato varieties

    Disease Resistant Heirloom Tomatoes

    If you’re looking for heirloom tomato varieties that are disease resistant, there are many to choose from. Let’s take a closer look at some of the best.

    • Cherokee Purple: resistant to bacterial speck, fusarium wilt 1, 2, and 3, tomato spotted wilt virus, verticillium wilt, and root-knot nematode
    • Black Velvet F1: disorder resistant
    • Caiman F1: resistant to fusarium wilt 1 and 2, tobacco mosaic virus, verticillium wilt, tomato spotted wilt virus, tomato leaf mold, and root-knot nematode
    • Fargo Yellow Pear: disorder resistant
    • Delicious: disorder resistant
    • Damsel F1: resistant to root-knot nematode, late blight, and verticillium wilt
    • Aosta Valley: resistant to early and late blight
    • Green Zebra: resistant to Septoria leaf spot and late blight
    • Legend: resistant to late blight
    • Chocolate Sprinkles: resistant to fusarium wilt 1, fusarium crown rot, tobacco mosaic virus, and root-knot nematode
    • Garden Peach: resistant to late blight
    • Cauralina F1: resistant to fusarium wilt, fusarium crown root, and tomato mosaic virus
    • Italian Heirloom: resistant to late blight
    • Marglobe: resistant to fusarium wilt 1 and 2
    • Chiapas: resistant to early and late blight, and Septoria leaf spot
    • Mt. Gold: resistant to fusarium wilt 1 and 2
    • Grandma’s Pick F1: resistant to verticillium wilt, root-knot nematode, and fusarium wilt 1
    • New Yorker: resistant to verticillium wilt
    • Mt. Rouge: resistant to root-knot nematode and late blight
    • Marbonne F1: resistant to tomato mosaic virus and fusarium wilt

    Conclusion

    I hope this post has helped you to identify the best disease-resistant tomatoes, as well as how best to find the right variety for you. It’s getting easier and easier to grow disease-resistant tomatoes; just be sure to check the abbreviations on any tomato seeds that you buy. Do you have any tips or tricks when it comes to disease-resistant tomatoes? If so, please feel free to let us know in the comments below. And remember, sharing is caring!

    FAQs

    Which tomato variety is resistant to blight?

    Mountain Magic F1 (Medium) is resistant to blight.

    If you see symptoms of bacterial blight on your tomato plants, remove them by cutting the stems at the base of the plant. Make sure to wash your hands after removing the infected parts so you don’t spread the bacteria around. If you see the bacteria on the leaves, you can spray them with a mixture of water and bleach to kill the bacteria.

    Which tomato variety is resistant to bacterial wilt?

    The best known varieties are “Green Zebras” and “Roma”. There are also a number of hybrids that have been bred for this resistance.

    If you see any signs of Verticillium wilt, you should remove the plants from the soil as soon as possible to prevent further damage. If you are unable to remove the plants from the ground, you can treat the soil with a fungicide such as copper or sulfur to prevent the disease from spreading.

    Are cherry tomatoes disease resistant?

    Cherry tomatoes are a great choice for any gardener looking to add a little variety to their vegetable garden. Liike most other types of tomatoes, cherry tomatoes are susceptible to various diseases.

    However, they are resistant to a wide variety of diseases, and in some cases the resistance is due to the plant’s own immune system.

    Are heirloom tomatoes disease-resistant?

    Heirloom tomatoes are not resistant to the major diseases that affect tomato crops, but they can be used as a food source when combined with other plants and insects that provide natural pest control. The best way to prevent diseases is by growing tomatoes in a healthy garden environment that includes annuals and perennials, mulching, regular watering and harvesting regularly.

    How do you know if bacteria is wilting of tomatoes?

    The first thing to check is whether or not the plant has any signs of disease.
    There are a number of ways to tell. One of the most reliable is the color of the tomato. If it’s dark green, it’s probably ok. If it’s light green, it may be starting to decay. If it’s yellow or brown, it’s most likely too far gone. Another way is to press your thumb on the stem of the tomato and see how it feels. If it’s waxy, it’s ok. If it’s dry and hard, it’s dead.
    You can look at the underside of the leaves. If the leaves have turned yellow, this is a sign of bacterial wilt.

    What is the hardiest tomato plant?

    A tomato plant can be grown in almost any location, but it’s important to choose a site that offers the proper amount of sunlight. Tomatoes are a warm-weather crop, so they need lots of sun. They also like plenty of water, so make sure that you water regularly and give the leaves a good soaking once or twice a week. If you have a big enough garden space, tomatoes are the perfect addition to any vegetable garden.
    There are many varieties of tomatoes, and many are very different in hardiness. We have found that the most hardy tomato is

  • Do Tomato Hornworms Bite: Best Ways to Control

    Do Tomato Hornworms Bite: Best Ways to Control

    Tomato worms are one common pest that bothers tomato plants and they can ruin your plants. They may look fierce and dangerous, but do tomato hornworms bite?

    The huge green tomato worm can grow up to 4 or 5 inches long and they are one of the longest types of caterpillar. There is nothing more devastating than finding tomato worms in your garden feeding on your sweet tomato fruits.

    The fact that the tomato worm has a stinger-like horn shape, some may be scared of them. So, if you’ve got tomato worms in your garden and you’re wondering if they bite then you should read on to know the answer to this. We will also discuss what you can do to get rid of these troubling worms.

    What Are Tomato Worms?

    Tomato worms, also known as hornworms are huge caterpillars that have a tail that looks like a horn. They love to chew on tomatoes, meaning tomato is their favorite food. They not only enjoy fruits, but they can also feed on plant leaves as well as their stems. These worms will eat plant leaves and can render your plant leafless.

    Tomato worms will as well feast on other plant’s fruits such as eggplant, pepper, potato, and tobacco plants.

    Do Tomato Hornworms Bite?

    Even though these worms may look scary and savage, they are not stingers. Therefore tomato worms do not bite. They are harmless to humans and you can even pick them up off your plants anytime you sight them.

    What Are Tomato Worms

    Where Do Tomato Worms Come From?

    Tomato worms come from eggs laid by the adult moth. These moths are huge heavy-bodied insects that have narrow front wings. They are gray-brown and can have yellow spots on their abdomen.

    Life cycle

    The tomato worm life cycle begins as eggs are laid by the adult moths. These eggs are laid by the female after mating around summer and the eggs are laid on the host such as tomato, pepper, eggplant, etc. The eggs are oval and smooth with a light green color.

    Next, the eggs hatch into caterpillars and the caterpillars are the worms that begin to feed and grow. The caterpillars can feed up until late summer or early fall.

    Once they begin to feed and grow, in about 3 to 4 weeks, they become matured green caterpillars. This matured caterpillar will drop from the plants they are feeding into the soil and burrow into the soil. In the soil, they will change or transform into pupae. The pupae will stay in the soil and thrive through winter.

    After surviving through winter, the pupae will emerge as adult moths during spring. Then the moths start another generation around mid-summer by depositing their eggs on their host plant.

    Identifying Caterpillar on Tomato Plant

    The tomato worm caterpillars may be hard to notice because they are green and can blend with your green plants. But once you notice any caterpillar of about 4 to 5 inches of green color and horn-like shape on your plant, then that’s a sign of tomato worm infestation. You need to act fast. If you delay any longer, they will continue to spread causing even bigger problems.

    They are capable of devouring your plant leaves and causing serious damage a night. Once they grow bigger and older, they consume more and more. Those fully matured tomato caterpillars can consume a lot at that stage.

    So, because of their green camouflaging color, you may not notice them on time. However, you should look closely and also look for droppings and follow the trail.

    You can as well identify these worms with black lights. Once it gets dark, scrutinize your plant with the black lights. Tomato worms usually come out in the dark to feed and they will glow in the dark.

    Let’s take a look at some control measures we can take to mitigate the situation.

    Controlling Tomato Worms

    There are various methods of getting rid of tomato worms and they include:

    • Handpicking

    Tomato worms will not bite you so you can simply handpick them when you notice them in your garden. This process may take a while, but it’s totally worth it as you will be saving your plants.

    After handpicking them, you can simply drop them in hot soapy water to kill them. You can as well feed them to your chicken or any birds if you raise them.

    • Spray the plant with soap and water

    Another natural way to get rid of these worms is to spray them with liquid dish soap mixed with water. Spray your entire plant and worms until they are all covered. Doing this should eliminate them without causing any havoc to your plants.

    • Bacillus Thuringiensis (BT)

    If the two natural methods we mentioned above don’t work, you can go for natural pesticides. It is safe to use on your plant and also safe for humans. Bacillus thuringiensis is a natural bacteria found in soil. The worm consumes these bacteria and its digestive system becomes paralyzed and it will eventually die.

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    • Beneficial insects

    Beneficial insects can as well be used to control tomato worms. However, they can only work for a small population. Examples of these beneficial insects are ladybugs, lacewings, paper wasps, and so on. You can obtain these beneficial insects online or from your local garden stores.

    • Chemical insecticides

    Chemical insecticides can be used to control these worms. However, they may not be safe for your organic garden. Notwithstanding, there are good options such as sevin insecticides which are non-systematic. This means they will not penetrate plant tissues and you can simply wash them off after their job is done.

    Signs of Tomato Worms Infestation

    When you begin to notice your plant leaves having holes or becoming wilted, then you need to have a close inspection of your plant.

    You may also notice droppings of these worms on your tomato leaves or the ground. Also, if there are any green caterpillars around your plants, that may be a sign of tomato worm infestation.

    Signs Of Tomato Worms Infestation

    Are Tomato Worms Poisonous?

    Now that we know that tomato worms do not bite humans, you may be wondering if they are poisonous. You can safely touch tomato hornworms without being concerned about them biting, stinging, or being poisonous. However, you should never ingest these worms. If they are ingested, they may be toxic as tomatoes are part of the nightshade family and these worms remove the toxins from the plant. It’s important to seek medical advice if this happens.

    What is the Best Tomato Worm Killer?

    When killing tomato hornworms, it’s best to use a low-risk pesticide. There are many low-risk pesticides you can use. But some of my personal favorites are Spinosad, insecticidal soap, or Bacillus thuringiensis. Let’s take a closer look at all three.

    • Spinosad. It’s derived from a natural microorganism. Can kill tomato hornworms through contact, or ingestion. However, ingestion is the most effective. You’ll notice the effects within one to two weeks. Be sure you keep a watchful eye on it until it’s dried, as it can be harmful to bees.
    • Insecticidal soap. This doesn’t need to be ingested; contact is enough, but it must be direct. It’s effective against hornworms and what’s great about this is that it isn’t harmful to good insects.
    • Bacillus Thuringiensis. A bacteria that derive from the soil. Contact is not enough for this pesticide, it must be consumed by the tomato hornworms. The younger the caterpillars, the more effective this method will be. This method is ideal if you’re looking to protect bees and insects.

    Can a Tomato Hornworm Sting?

    If you take a close look at the tomato hornworm, they are quite terrifying. They look as though they could be dangerous, but as well as not being poisonous, and not being able to bite, they also can not sting you. Apart from being harmful to your garden, they can’t cause any damage to humans whatsoever! They’re nowhere near as scary as they first appear.

    Can Bearded Dragons Eat Hornworms?

    Bearded dragons have a very versatile diet, and you may be wondering if you can feed them hornworms. And the answer is, absolutely. However, it’s best to buy the hornworms from a reputable store. Hornworms are used as food for many reptiles besides bearded dragons, such as geckos and chameleons.

    Hornworms are easy for your bearded dragons to digest, as well as being a great source of calcium and hydration.Where Do Tomato Worms Come From

    Are Tomato Hornworms Poisonous to Dogs?

    We’ve mentioned that tomato hornworms can cause problems if ingested by humans, and the same can be said if ingested by your pets. Tomato hornworms can be poisonous to your dogs, so it’s important to seek veterinary advice if you think your dog has swallowed any.

    Conclusion: Do Tomato Hornworms Bite?

    Tomato worms may look fierce and dangerous but they do not bite humans. However, the damage they will do to your plants can be very serious. Ensure you monitor your plants closely, especially their favorite plants which are tomato, pepper, eggplants, and tobacco plants.

    I hope this post has helped to answer the question: “do tomato hornworms bite?” and given you an idea of how to prevent and control them if you do manage to get an infestation. While they can be a nuisance to your garden, it’s a super easy problem to resolve. Do you have any tips and tricks when it comes to removing hornworms? If so, please feel free to let us know in the comments below. And remember, sharing is caring!

    FAQs

    Do hornworms bite humans?

    Hornworms are not harmful to humans. However, they can cause damage to plants. The eggs and larvae are very destructive. They eat grass, soil, and roots. They can also kill plants.

    A hornworm may bite if it feels threatened or cornered. They also may bite if they are hungry. If they are hungry, they may be trying to feed on the roots of a plant.

    The most common cause of a hornworm bite is in the spring. The adults are out looking for food and the young ones are out looking for mates.

    Are green hornworms poisonous?

    Some people think that the green hornworm is poisonous because it tastes bad, and they won’t eat it. Others think that the green hornworm is poisonous because it has a very hard exoskeleton which doesn’t easily break down in the stomach.
    But, they are not.

    Where do tomato hornworms go during the day?

    Tomato hornworm caterpillars are active during the day, and they may be feeding on leaves or other parts of plants. If you find a large number of them, try to see where they are hiding. Look for places where they might have access to foliage and leaves. You can also check under shrubs and trees for signs of feeding. Hornworms will leave a silken web on their food source. You can also look for frass, or insect droppings.

    Tomato hornworms (Manduca sexta) are large, dark-colored caterpillars with a horn on their head and antennae. They feed on the leaves of tomatoes and other nightshade plants like eggplant and peppers. Hornworm larvae chew holes in plant leaves to feed on sap and then pupate. When they emerge as adults, they’ll feed on foliage until they reach maturity.

    How do you prevent tomato worms?

    Tomato worms are not a problem for everyone. I can’t say that I have ever had problems with them, but when I did, I didn’t know what to do about it. So I want to share some tips on how to get rid of tomato worms in your garden. Tomato Worms – What are they? A common pest for tomatoes, the tomato worm is a small insect, which can be up to 2 inches long.
    They are most often seen in the garden when the temperatures are warm and humid. You may see them crawling around the base of plants, or laying eggs in the soil. How do you get rid of them? The best way to prevent tomato worm damage is to pick off any infested leaves, and destroy the eggs in the soil. Another good method is to grow plants in containers, so that you can take them out of the garden if they begin to appear. If you do need to control these pests, the easiest solution is to use a systemic pesticide. These products work by killing the pest from the roots down, which will help reduce any future problems. This is one of the best ways to prevent tomato worms, and many other plant pests.